Battery box plug

[sammysamsam]

Shot out a pm to Andy and figured i would see what you guys suggest also.

I cant deal with the battery plug for my bait tank anymore. The wires from the pump keep slipping out of the male plug that i plug into the battery box or it doesnt make good contact inside the female end. Tried electrical tape but that doesnt work. i already bought another battery plug from oex and it just doesnt tighten down enough to hold the wires.
What can i do? Plus, once you tighten down the little screws on the plug, there is no way to open them again or else you strip the small brass screws. Do you have any ideas other than buying another $7 dollar battery plug and going through the same process? Im just frustrated with this thing since my bait keeps dying.

[buttchaser]

Can you post some pictures of it?

[sammysamsam]

those wires do not stay in that plug. ideas?

Also, What do you guys use to keep the battery box from moving around inside the hatch?

[kobra]

those wires do not stay in that plug. ideas?

Also, What do you guys use to keep the battery box from moving around inside the hatch?


Can you solder (sp?) the wires to the connector pins?
I keep my battery box in place with a small bungy cord wrapped around the sail mast tube on my Hobie.

[Lets_Fish]

Try these out.
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/2845/wpk22018.jpg
Hobie uses them on their bait tank and they are weather proof.

Here is a link: http://www.performanceplusconnection.com/item--WeatherPack-2-Pin-Kit-16-14-AWG--WeatherPack2PinKit16_14.html

They have different sizes also. Purchase the ones that fit your wires.

[GregAndrew]

I prefer these outside the battery box.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-2-Pole-Flat-Extension/dp/B0002Q80RW/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1317271318&sr=1-11
I just drill 2 small holes in the box for the wires and goop them up.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/P9280566.jpg
I think the terminals are aluminum. I also have them permanently attached to my batteries so I don't have to mess around with the weak battery terminals.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/P9280565.jpg

[jorluivil]

I had a the same issue so here's what I did.


cut old wire off
strip off outer cover(strip off just a little more than you'll need)
flux both negative and positive strands thoroughly
solder each wire, make sure the solder gets inside the strands
measure each wires diameter making sure that each fits inside its respective hole, wire should have a snug fit
measure and cut off excess wire
if you have one insert outer protective cover over wire/cable
loosen screw on plug, do not loosen to much or they will come off
inside wires in their respective holes and tighten screw
When you tighten the screw it will dig itself into the solder and create a dimple as its tighhtened. The dimple will hold the wire in place and keep it from slipping out.

I went one step further and added marine goop to each hole where the wires fit and also gooped the section where the protective cover slips over the wire/cable. I insert and remove my plug every trip, its been almost a year since I did this and I have not had any issue to date.

[mtnbykr2]

those wires do not stay in that plug. ideas?

Also, What do you guys use to keep the battery box from moving around inside the hatch?
the insulated connectors are the best, the connectors Greg used are just as good, as far as holding the battery in place I found a 2 1/2 inch wide by approx 12 inch long velcro strap that has a stainless buckle on it, fits aroud the battery with just enough extra left to wrap around the mast post holds tight enough that when I forget to remove the battery it stays in place even when loading the yak upside down:reel:

[Caballito]

Go with Gregs soultion. You can buy them online cheap. Cut splice and solder them, followed by a couple coats of liquid electrical tape (west marine), then with electrical tape. Works great.

[sammysamsam]

I had a the same issue so here's what I did.


cut old wire off
strip off outer cover(strip off just a little more than you'll need)
flux both negative and positive strands thoroughly
solder each wire, make sure the solder gets inside the strands
measure each wires diameter making sure that each fits inside its respective hole, wire should have a snug fit
measure and cut off excess wire
if you have one insert outer protective cover over wire/cable
loosen screw on plug, do not loosen to much or they will come off
inside wires in their respective holes and tighten screw

When you tighten the screw it will dig itself into the solder and create a dimple as its tighhtened. The dimple will hold the wire in place and keep it from slipping out.

I went one step further and added marine goop to each hole where the wires fit and also gooped the section where the protective cover slips over the wire/cable. I insert and remove my plug every trip, its been almost a year since I did this and I have not had any issue to date.

So essentially you are just adding solder to the wire so the screw can dig into the wire, correct?



I prefer these outside the battery box.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-2-Pole-Flat-Extension/dp/B0002Q80RW/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1317271318&sr=1-11
I just drill 2 small holes in the box for the wires and goop them up.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/P9280566.jpg
I think the terminals are aluminum. I also have them permanently attached to my batteries so I don't have to mess around with the weak battery terminals.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/P9280565.jpg

Are these weatherproof?

[Iceman]

Are these weatherproof?

weather proof.......yes, these are designed for trailer wire rigging. I sell these.

[jorluivil]

So essentially you are just adding solder to the wire so the screw can dig into the wire, correct?

In a word: Yes.

In a few words: You're just turning stranded wire into solid wire. Since the solder is still somewhat flexible it will allow the screw tip to embed itself and create this dimple, or, lock.

[wiseguy]

X2 on the ones Greg suggested. I've used those ever since I've started kayaking in 2004 and they have always held up to the salt. What I do to prevent corrosion is put dialectric grease on them every now and then and they stay clean!

[sammysamsam]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. That is exactly what i needed to get constant power to my equipment.

Now if i can find a way to secure my battery boxes so it doesnt move around....

[dsafety]

I currently use both of the connectors suggested by Greg and Let's Fish. Both work well but the one the Let's Fish suggested is just about bullet proof. It is the same one that Hobie uses on their bait tank. This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time.

The trailer connector is almost as good and only costs a couple bucks at Pep Boys. A bit of dielectric grease slows down the inevitable corrosion.

Bob

[buttchaser]

Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place

[sammysamsam]

I currently use both of the connectors suggested by Greg and Let's Fish. Both work well but the one the Let's Fish suggested is just about bullet proof. It is the same one that Hobie uses on their bait tank. This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time.

The trailer connector is almost as good and only costs a couple bucks at Pep Boys. A bit of dielectric grease slows down the inevitable corrosion.

Bob

that one looks like it will give me the least amount of problems. that link provided at that auto place sells them for about 4 bucks with free shipping.

[sammysamsam]

Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place

wont the water get to the glue and come off?

[Lets_Fish]

This connector is expensive and hard to find. There is an industrial hardware supply off Miramar Rd. that has this connector in stock most of the time. Bob

Bob, do you know how much they cost at the hardware supply you mentioned? The link I provided sells them for $4-$5 a pair which is not much more than the "trailer" connection. You can also purchase replacement "tips" for repairs if need be (i.e. replacement of wires). The link I provided has free shipping and they do ship fast. I have purchased all of my additional connectors from them.

Here is the link once more:http://www.performanceplusconnection.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=catshow&ref=racing&sid=p0b0fw1c8i39z13fjg2033729g2oycnn
& their ebay link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weather-Pack-Weathertight-2-Pin-16-14-Weatherpack-Kit-/230604583636?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item35b11ab2d4#ht_2191wt_940

Originally Posted by buttchaser
Try Double sided Velcro tape to keep the box in place
Originally Posted by Sammysamsam
wont the water get to the glue and come off?
You can always epoxy the velcro to the hull.

Also note that both types of connectors are "weather proof" not "WATER PROOF". Don't confuse the two.

[467echo]

What I find causing more corrosion than anything is when you forget to unplug the battery after each use. Leaving the battery hooked up really seems to speed up the corrosion process. Now that I unplug after each use and a little dielectric grease every now and then I have not had any problems. Which means next time out everything will fail:eek:

[StinkyMatt]

$1.99 AutoZone on the trailer ones.

[GregAndrew]

I have had some success with goop applied to the piece of velcro attached to the hull. But if you can handle a permanent application then 5200 or epoxy should do the trick. Use a wide piece or a couple of narrower pieces.

[jorluivil]

I have had some success with goop applied to the piece of velcro attached to the hull. But if you can handle a permanent application then 5200 or epoxy should do the trick. Use a wide piece or a couple of narrower pieces.


I want to install some eyelets inside my hull, does the 5200 hold pretty well? I've seen some guys use Marine Goop but I can't imagine it having good holding power.

[dsafety]

Bob, do you know how much they cost at the hardware supply you mentioned? .

I have not been to this place in a while. It is called Marshalls, BTW. You could call them and check the price. I think it is higher than what you found online. Keep in mind that there are three components, the case and both male and female pins, all sold separately.

As for securing your battery box to the hull, Velcro works fine for lightweight batteries but if you use one of the big ones, you will probably find that the Velcro will not hold.

I ended up gooping a couple pad-eyes to the hull on either side of the case and running a webbing strap through the eyes and over the battery box. It has held everything in place for a few years without a problem.

Bob

[Iceman]

I've seen some guys use Marine Goop but I can't imagine it having good holding power.

scuff the surface and it will have plenty of holding power

[sasha]

Those connections that Hobie is using are made by GM they been using them on cars for years now. Jeep been using them as well. The best price you can get on them would be to go to a junk yard find any GM car and cut them out of the harness. Make sure you have enough wire left to solder your wires to it. Use proper heatshrink tubing for marine and they would work great. Before you plug both sides use some grease and it would be ok. Seen lots of guys build 4WD trucks that can do some water crossing with zero problems as long as intake and exh and the driver stay above the water. Just make sure you do use plenty of proper grease.


Sasha

[Handymansd]

go to a junk yard find any GM car and cut them out of the harness.

That is a great idea! Cheap, & effective! :cheers1:
I am using this style of connector and have never had a problem... If only Hobie's bait tank switches were that reliable!

Andy, as usual, is spot on... marine goop with a good scuffing will hold just about anything you need!

[sammysamsam]

Looks like a lot of you guys have gone through this already. Thanks to everyone for the ideas.:cool:

[sammysamsam]

Bob, do you know how much they cost at the hardware supply you mentioned? The link I provided sells them for $4-$5 a pair which is not much more than the "trailer" connection. You can also purchase replacement "tips" for repairs if need be (i.e. replacement of wires). The link I provided has free shipping and they do ship fast. I have purchased all of my additional connectors from them.

Here is the link once more:http://www.performanceplusconnection.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=catshow&ref=racing&sid=p0b0fw1c8i39z13fjg2033729g2oycnn
& their ebay link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weather-Pack-Weathertight-2-Pin-16-14-Weatherpack-Kit-/230604583636?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item35b11ab2d4#ht_2191wt_940



You can always epoxy the velcro to the hull.

Also note that both types of connectors are "weather proof" not "WATER PROOF". Don't confuse the two.

Not sure if anyone else is having problems ordering from them but i had to use the ebay link since it seems there is a problem ordering through their website.

[habanero]

Try these out.
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/2845/wpk22018.jpg
Hobie uses them on their bait tank and they are weather proof.

Here is a link: http://www.performanceplusconnection.com/item--WeatherPack-2-Pin-Kit-16-14-AWG--WeatherPack2PinKit16_14.html

They have different sizes also. Purchase the ones that fit your wires.


FYI I use these all over the place and found this place for best prices:
http://www.thedetailzone.com/Wiring%20Aids.htm

This place for bulk:
http://www.mouser.com/_/?Keyword=Weatherpack

[Lets_Fish]

I have not been to this place in a while. It is called Marshalls, BTW. You could call them and check the price. I think it is higher than what you found online. Keep in mind that there are three components, the case and both male and female pins, all sold separately.

Bob

Thanks Bob,

I called Marshall's Industrial Hardware and the individual that I spoke with said they did not carry the GM style connectors, only ones called Noble. Here is a link to Nobles catalog (see page 24 for the same product). http://www.noblewire.com/catalog.pdf These may be the ones you saw when you were there last & since I reference "GM" they did know the style being the same. I'm not sure on their price, but maybe someone in the area could post it for all.

The price I listed was for one complete set (both plastic connectors, boots & both male and female pins) through Performance Plus. Sammy their main site works, you just have to enter more information (i.e. info you may have already have on your ebay account).

While getting them from a wrecked vehicle may be cheaper you are adding one more splice to your wiring which can add to more problems while out on the water. Any wire open to "air" has the possibility of corroding while connected and having current through it. JMO

And X2 on the dielectric grease. Keeps the connectors clean of corrosion (preventive general maintenance).

[GregAndrew]

Not a bad idea to use a bit of rubbing alcohol after scuffing, before applying the goop (to both the kayak and the pad eye). Same goes for applying the Velcro to the hull. Need the heavy duty wide Velcro without the self adhesive.

[sammysamsam]

Thanks Bob,

I called Marshall's Industrial Hardware and the individual that I spoke with said they did not carry the GM style connectors, only ones called Noble. Here is a link to Nobles catalog (see page 24 for the same product). http://www.noblewire.com/catalog.pdf These may be the ones you saw when you were there last & since I reference "GM" they did know the style being the same. I'm not sure on their price, but maybe someone in the area could post it for all.

The price I listed was for one complete set (both plastic connectors, boots & both male and female pins) through Performance Plus. Sammy their main site works, you just have to enter more information (i.e. info you may have already have on your ebay account).



While getting them from a wrecked vehicle may be cheaper you are adding one more splice to your wiring which can add to more problems while out on the water. Any wire open to "air" has the possibility of corroding while connected and having current through it. JMO

And X2 on the dielectric grease. Keeps the connectors clean of corrosion (preventive general maintenance).

I went through the guest checkout and put in all my info. I actually got a call from someone at performance plus about my ordering problems. Good customer service. Def order all my plugs and such from there. Thank you so much for references them.

[Lets_Fish]

I went through the guest checkout and put in all my info. I actually got a call from someone at performance plus about my ordering problems. Good customer service. Def order all my plugs and such from there. Thank you so much for references them.

Glad to hear that all worked out for you.

BTW you need to use a special crimper on those connectors. If you don't have one PM me as I have one along with the extractor tool.