Share Your Innovations

[dsafety]

It was a dark and stormy night, (really, thanks to the first big storm of the season). At times like this I like to go to the shop and futz around. I tinker with things and sometimes come up with an idea or two on how to make the things I use work better. I call on my inner-Macgyver. We all have a little MacGyver in us. You remember the TV show where the guy saves the world every week with duct tape and a swiss army knife.

Anyway, as I was tinkering with my new Hobie Livewell I thought it might be fun to ask everyone to share some of the cool ideas and mods that they have come up with over the years. I remember reading of a few great innovations in this forum. A couple that come to mind are:

Adding a weight to the bottom of the Hobie peddles so they remain upright all the time.

A video camera mounted on a short mast attached to a stern mounted bait tank to record the day's events.

I am sure our community has come up with dozens of simple but wonderful ideas that help make the kayak fishing experience better and more fun. If you have one of those ideas, post it in this thread and share it with the rest of us. I'll go first.

We all know that we should leash our gear when out on the water. Sometimes, however, there is just no good place to clip a leash to a rod. With this problem in mind, I came up with an easy-to-make connection loop that can be installed on just about any kind of gear we carry on our kayaks. The thing takes a couple minutes to make and the materials cost less than a quarter. Behold the LEASH LOOP!

All you need to make one of these is a four inch piece of coated wire leader, a similar size piece of shock cord, a crimp sleeve and a crimper.

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Cut a 4" piece of the leader. Tie the shock cord so that you have a suitable size band that will stretch to fit around your rod, (or whatever else you want to use this thing for). Make sure that when the shock cord contracts, it fits tightly around your rod. After trimming the shock cord be sure to burn the end so the nylon does not fray.

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Thread the leader through the crimping sleeve, loop the leader around the shock cord and thread it back through the sleeve. Tighten this loop so it is snug against the shock cord. Make a larger loop with the other end of the leader and thread that end through the sleeve. Crimp the sleeve and trim the excess leader.

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And you are done.

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Slide the shock cord ring over your rod.

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GO FISHING!

BTW, as shown in the photo above, the Leash Loop can also double as a place to hook your lure to keep it out of the way when not in use.

I have a couple other simple projects that I will post soon. If you have something to share, let us see it.

Bob

[Darrin]

Cool idea, I just clip my leash to a zip tie below the first guide and above the reel (Same zip tie that I use when I go LR fishing). The zip tie serves as a rod holder on the LR boats (loops on the fish sack hooks by the bait tanks) and a leash clip for my Kayak.

[1Flatfish]

You might want to do something like this to keep kelp polyps, grass and crap out of the intake tube of your new bait tank. I used pure silver wire bought from a bead shop so it won't corrode. Not as simple as a screen, but I like the way it looks and works. I know it won't fall off.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj209/WaynePhoto_bucket/Retrofit5.jpg

Also, be careful of the collar around the outflow tube. It can come loose if your not careful.

Wayne

[dsafety]

I have not been happy with the leashes that I have found for sale. The ones using shock cord are too heavy and the cord exerts too much pressure when stretched. The ones that work well are kind of expensive. In today's class, I will show you how to make one at home for almost nothing.

Like most people, I have a bunch of old cell phone car chargers hanging around. Every new phone I get seems to require a different plug and therefore a new car charger. For this project we will be putting the curly cables from those old charges to a new use.

Start by cutting both ends off an old cable. If you don't have one, you can use a phone handset cable, ($5 at Home Depot).
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Plastic snap clips that are easy to use are hard to find. I found something usable at REI, ($2 for a pair of clips). These clips have to be modified a bit. Spread the clip apart and pull the strap attach point out.

Slide a 3/4" piece of shrink wrap over the cord and then thread the cord through the hole in the snap clip.

Slide a large crimp sleeve over the end of the cord and pull the end of the cord as far through the sleeve as you can. You may have to trim some of the cord material in order to get it to fit into the sleeve. Trim the cord so it is flush with the end of the sleeve
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Take a sheet metal screw and screw it into the open end of the sleeve leaving about 1/16" gap between the screw head and the sleeve. Crimp the sleeve over the screw threads.
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Spread the clip again and pull the cord so that the sleeve slides into the clip body and the screw head seats itself in place.
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Crimp the bottom of the sleeve around the cord. Slide the shrink wrap as far as you can up toward the screw and heat to shrink the material.

The final result will look like this.
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I like this leash better than any I have seen in stores. It stretches to over seven feet and recoils out of the way. Perfect for rods. You could make shorter ones for things like gaffs, pliers or Hobie Mirage drives that are used in more confined areas.

Bob

[eDUBz]

Cool stuff.

[Billy V]

OK.....Mr. and Mrs. Sea Bass the time is almost upon us so I will share a little.

These are (2) of the finest improvised Kayak Fishing tools I have used.
The first is a New Silent Kelp Clip for those WSB missions that take you into the spaghetti. This clip takes up No room at all, nor does it make any metallic sound.

Its very easy to use, Just grab 2 or 3 single strands of kelp and Cuff it. Tie the other end to your kayak.
It will not slip do to wind or current, and you do not have to pile 25 lbs. of salad on your Kayak to anchor.
-A joint venture between Me and Elbie.
-----------------------
Item #2 is a De- Hooking Tool for your Sabiki Rig.
Hold it by the Cork End and use the hook end to grab the line in front of your hooked Mackerel. Just lift and it will invert the hook letting the Mackerel fall off.
Never again will you have to deal with pliers, or your bare hand around those nasty hooks. This thing work like magic.
Yes, it floats.

-I first started using a piece of coat hanger, and making 2 tight loops and a short shaft with the hooked end. I would wear it on my finger like a ring.
I gave away a bunch of them at the launch every time somebody would ask..What the hell is that ? ..I gave them one.:)
-This type you see here is the 2nd generation version that has been improved upon by Rick Robinson. Its a Brass Rod (no rust) and a Champagne Cork. He now operates a factory in China and sells them by the gross.:p:p:p

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9cc30b3127ccef8820f30d7b900000030O00AbMmzFizcN2 IPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

[dgax65]

I added a nut protector/gimbal-type device to my hatch. It gives you a sturdy place to plant the rod butt on extended fights. The positioning on this one was a little off and it left the rod in a slightly awkward position. My next one will have an extension that will move it farther back towards me. On launch and landing I just turn the hatch around and its out of the way.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/533/NutProtect_Hatch_003_Medium_.jpg

I make my own leashes.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/533/leash_004_Medium_.jpg

I use hollow nylon strap (blue stuff on left), thin bungee cord (black) and brass snap hooks.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/533/yak_tethers_003_Medium_.jpg

You cut the bungee cord about 50-70% the length of the strap (depends on the thickness and pliability of the strap). I unfold a coat hanger, bend back an inch at one end of the hanger, slip it through the strap, double the bungee around the hook and pull it back through. You gather the strap onto the bungee and secure both ends. The strap end is fed through the swivel of the snap hook, folded over onto itself, and sewn into place with nylon thread. It takes a little time and you need to have good sewing needles (upholstery or leather needles work well). I have been able to knock out five or six in an evening

I use SS rings (split or solid) as the leash attachment point for my rods. They are held on with big, UV resistant zip ties.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/533/leash_002_Medium_.jpg

If you run electrical wires or cables the length of your yak, you might want to route them along the underside of the deck, to keep the bottom of the yak clear for rod storage. I used short sections of aluminum angle or C channel attached to the underside of the deck.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/529/Cable_clamps_004_Medium_.jpg

The aluminum channel also served as a backer for the RAM tube rod holders mounted on the deck above. This provided greater strength for the RAM mount and also gave me an attachment point for cable routing. I riveted nylon cable hangers to the lips on the C channel. For easy wiring changes, you should cut the nylon cable hangers at the base of the loop. It will hold the wires securely, but you can still bend it back and pull them out.

The rigors of use in a kayak can cause battery terminals to fail. They are prone to corrosion and repeatedly connecting and disconnecting can put a lot of mechanical strain on them. To avoid this, I permanently attach a wire harness to the battery.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/529/kayak_electrical_006_Medium_.jpg

I use waterproof trailer plugs like these

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/529/X-Factor_PDU_004_Medium_.jpg

I crimp terminal lugs to one end and then attach them to the battery. Once attached, the terminals and lugs are heavily coated with dielectric grease and then taped over with electrical tape. The harness never comes off the battery after that. The other side of the plug is attached to the buss bars for the electrical distribution system. The plugs are much more durable than the battery terminals. My battery charger has a similar plug attached to the leads. This allows me to easily pull the battery and hook it up to the charger.

[steveooo]

I crimp terminal lugs to one end and then attach them to the battery. Once attached, the terminals and lugs are heavily coated with dielectric grease and then taped over with electrical tape. The harness never comes off the battery after that. The other side of the plug is attached to the buss bars for the electrical distribution system. The plugs are much more durable than the battery terminals. My battery charger has a similar plug attached to the leads. This allows me to easily pull the battery and hook it up to the charger.

:notworthy:
Makes life sooo much easier. I just do a rough wire to the terminals, sealed by marine goop. Do this with new wires and and new battery, before salt water has a chance to corrode it. Very durable, low maintenance, works. Di-electric grease is good on the connection ends too.
For the newbies, dgax65 is one of the innovative masters. If you have it on your yak, most likely it was inspired by dgax65. Look up his old posts before you rig up a yak. I'll say it again...:notworthy:

[Fiskadoro]

I hoopnet a bunch and I made some gadgets for my FND for hoop netting.
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/9712/hoopgear.jpg
Here's the general rig:
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7255/riggedt.jpg

It consists of a lobster box in the rear, pedestal for electronics up front and a lighted boom with a block for pulling up the nets.

Here's the box it's held in by the straps of the seat and the clips.http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/3840/backhold.jpg


It doubles as a net rack, here it is with one of my folding nets I made for it. (my nets are smaller then the Danielson and Promars but taller which makes them easier to pull from a kayak)


http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7058/rack3.jpg
and it's got more then enough room to store a limit of bugs or for that matter my hoop floats.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2714/hatch.jpg

The boom is pretty simple: It has a custom block that I made on the end.
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/1533/pulleyf.jpg

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/8090/boom2.jpg

It's lighted with red LEDS for sorting lobstershttp://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2087/red111.jpg
Wiyth the red light you can see the bugs but it does not effect your night vision

The little pedestal gives me a place for my spot and GPS and or fishfinder.
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/3673/consolezs.jpg

The block lines up right with the edge of the yak so you can pull as hard as you want and it doesn't try to pull you over. http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1190/bowr.jpg

The Boom also pulls out of it's holder so you can store it under the deck when your not pulling nets. The pedestal itself comes out by just pulling a few nuts at the base, and a bolt.

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/9084/conremove.jpg


I have a small pedestal that sits on the main hatch for fishing. I just switch out the rear storage for an oversized bait tank I made and I'm good for fishing Sardines all day for halibut in the bay.http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/241/baitank.jpg


The FND is no longer my Kayak of choice for most fishing unless I'm fishing local and want to carry a ton of bait but it's great for hooping. I've Hooped this setup for three years now and it's good enough for what I want to do with it. I can't think of anything I'd add or change on it.

It just makes hooping so much easier, and because of that I can hoop longer when the hooping is slow.....

Jim

[mrJB]

Cheap Tricks (No, not the 70’s rock ’n’ roll band)


I enjoy kayak fishing not only for the thrill of catching fish while seated six inches off the ocean in the middle of nowhere, but also for the many creative ways of outfitting the kayak and creating kayak-related fishing gear. Saving a few bucks doesn’t hurt either. A few that work for me:




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1 - Fishfinder (Eagle) plug protection: A 3/8” screw protector cover, available in the parts bins at Home Depot or Lowe’s, for around $.50. For use on those days when you don’t attach your fishfinder or if you store your yak outside.



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2 - Reel Covers: Rather than pay eight bucks and up for a reel cover, which I’ll probably lose anyway, I make my own for about $1.25 from one of those soda/beer can neoprene insulators, and a piece of Velcro strap. Can coolers about $1 at Walmart and a pack of the Velcro straps for a few bucks from Walmart, Home Depot, etc. These insulated can “koozies” seem to fit calcuttas, lunas, and small avets pretty well and can help eliminate a lot of future “boat rash” on the reel.



3 - Sacrificial Wear Strips: Several layers of duct tape strips on the keel of your yak, and some transparent packing tape strips on the critical areas of that nice gold baitcaster you just got. They’ll need to be replaced every few trips.



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4 - Rod Cork Grip Protection: I spray the cork grips on my inshore rods with Scotchguard, the type for outdoor goods like tents and such. Helps make the grips easier to clean and prevents blood and grime from getting ground into the cork. Will take overnight to dry but doesn’t seem to discolor the cork.


<O:p>1702</O:p>
5 - Paddle Leash: Can’t seem to figure out why someone would spend big bucks on some super light, high-end paddle, just to save a few ounces of weight, and then tether it to the yak with a 10 ounce wet leash. I make mine from some thin poly rope – weighs next to nothing and doesn’t stay wet.

[dgax65]

Jim Day takes the tittle as KING OF ALL KAYAK MODIFICATION. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

He should have his own shown on TLC or the Discovery Channel - American Kayak. He could be the Paul Sr., Paul Jr. and Vinnie all wrapped into one.

Nice work.

[Iceman]

12 volt portable fits in the sail mount with a RAM wedge mount. 5 amp 12 volt has about 20 hours run time between charging. extra transducer cable coiled inside case as well as an in line fuse. transducer arm is starboard.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/IMG_2169.JPG

[erinoo]

Interesting...Andy, with the transducer directly in the water are you getting that much better of a signal vs through the haul...??? en

[GregAndrew]

Here is the one that I like the most from my short time as a kayak fiddler, or is it fidgiter? I wanted to use my rear scuppers for intake and exhaust for my bait tank. This is just a focus on the exhaust which is also used to control the water level (infinitely adjustable) and empty the tank. I took an ordinary PVC compression fitting for 1/2 inch pipe. Here is one cut in half (normally has a fitting on both ends.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/PC180286.jpg
And here it is unscrewed.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/PC180287.jpg
Here it is modified and attached to the bottom of the tank (originally the connected end looked just like the bottom in the photo.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/P2110011-1.jpg
The modification was to cut one of the screw on ends in two (careful to leave threads on both end), which made a nut for the bottom of the tank and kept the cap for the seal inside. Here is approximately where I made the cut.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/PC180288.jpg
I then screwed the smaller "nut" piece down the threads just far enough to allow the cap to still function when attached. I cut a 1 3/8 inch hole in the bottom of my tank where it would have access to a scupper with the tank installed. The 1 3/8 hole was tight enough that I needed to screw the fitting into the tank, but I also gooped the nut. Now all I had to do was add a piece of PVC pipe through the cap and fitting and tighten the cap. Here it is from the inside in the up/full position.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/200902110003.jpg
And here it is in the down/low position.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/P2110008-1.jpg
I ended up cutting the compression fitting in two, to use the other end on my next tank, so here it is now.
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/GregAndrew/PB030247.jpg
A couple of use things I have noticed are that I need to leave the cap fairly loose to allow easy water level adjustment, or tighten it to transport my bait. And simply unscrewing the cap and removing the pipe quickly drains the tank. Also, rubbing the PVC pipe with candle wax helps out.

[Useful Idiot]

My innovations?

Ultimate Bait Tank (http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/servlet/the-1031/KFS-Ultimate-Bait-Tank/Detail)
Battery Box (http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/servlet/the-238/Battery-Box-Complete-Power/Detail)
Shortened Sabiki Rod (http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/servlet/the-277/kayak-bait-rod-sabiki/Detail)

Where's my royalties!? :the_finger:

[dgax65]

Brian
Don't forget your greatest engineering feat - the combination rod holder/evaporative cooling system/roll bar.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/525/Islander_SCI_trip_JUN07_016_Medium_.jpg

That thing was super bitchin'

:you_rock:

[GREYAK]

For coilcord, try the 99cent stores. Sometimes they have it, sometimes they don't

[bluesquids]

The Bait Bazooka.
http://momentoffame.com/photopost/data/501/DSC03083.JPG
http://momentoffame.com/photopost/data/501/DSC06546.JPG

[dsafety]

Bump

Come on guys, you have to have some more good stuff to share.

Bob

[Iceman]

RPG BLING

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/IMG_2332.JPG

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/IMG_2334.JPG

[dsafety]

Iceman,

That's a nice setup. Did the adjustable tracks come on your kayak or did you add them? Where does your bait tank go when using these rod holders?

It would be nice if the two outside tubes could be angled out a bit for wider separation when tolling. Is this possible?

Bob

[Iceman]

Bob,

The tracks are built into the new Tarpons, the SlideTrax system. I came across somebody using these off road handlebar hardware to make an accessory bar up front. The bar can be moved along the length of the track to accommodate the bait tank in front. The rail mount rod holders can be adjusted to point out as well.

[dsafety]

By popular demand, this device which was introduced in another post is being added to this thread.

Enjoy

Bob

Permanent Wet Transducer Installation


<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff; COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->Today's project was to come up with a way to permanently install a new Fish Finder Transducer using the wet method. I would like to take credit for this idea but truth be told, I found a post from a guy in Australia who came up with this idea a year or two ago. I have modified the original installation a bit.

You will need a 3" piece of drain pipe or a 3" adapter, some sort of cap that will screw or clamp to the top of the adapter, some goop, a few stainless screws and a fish finder with transducer. I used a rubber cap a threaded 3" adapter. You could also use a threaded cap but I thought the rubber cap would provide a better water seal.

The first step is to attach the "well" to the hull of the kayak. I shaved the bottom of the adapter a bit to make it fit the contour of the hull and gooped it to the plastic making sure there would be no leaks once the well was filled with water.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1794&d=1262293914

Next came mounting the transducer to the cap. I sliced an X in the rubber that would expand large enough to allow the transducer plug to fit through. You could also drill a hole but that would mean a larger waterproof patch later. In the middle of the X I drilled a hole large enough for the cable to slide through without distorting the rubber.

Using the transom mount that came with the transducer, I attached the transducer to the inside of the cap making sure that everything would fit inside the well when the cap was installed. I marked the top of the cap to show the direction the front of the transducer was pointing and gooped the area where the cable passed through to make it water tight.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1795&d=1262293914

After the goop cured, I filled the well with water, slid the cap with transducer over the top and tightened the hose clamp. The completed installation is below.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1796&d=1262293914

If all goes according to plan, I should be able to fill the well with water once and forget about it. No more constantly checking the foam ring to make sure the water has not spilled, dried up or drained away. Since I store and transport my kayak upside down It is very important that this thing does not leak. We will see.

I have not yet tested this installation on the water but hope to go to La Jolla on New Years Day. If you see me out there, please feel free to paddle on over and check this installation out.

I have a couple concerns beyond whether this thing will remain water tight. Will the fact that there is about an inch of water between the transducer and the hull have any effect? Since the temperature sensor is inside the well, it will probably not give a very accurate reading. The water in the well will have to stabilize with the ocean water. That could take some time. It will almost certainly not be able to detect subtle changes in the water temperature as I peddle from one place to another. All things considered, this is not a very big deal.

See you out there.

Bob


UPDATE: I have tested this setup a couple times and it works perfectly. It has been stored upsided down for a couple weeks now and no leaks have appeared. The issue with the temperature not responding immediately is real. It typically takes about a half hour for the reading to stabilize with the ocean water. As for performance, the fish finder works perfectly, much better than my previous installation although I am sure that part of the improvement is due to the fact that my new FF has better resolution than the old one.
<!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->

[MrPatrick]

When I use a drop-shot rig in the bay I like to use a two oz. torpedo sinker. I used to take it off of the snap swivel every time a location change was called for. It would be removed to prevent it from swinging and damaging the rod or getting tangled with other rods. Now I use a washer from a garden hose that is zip tied to the threaded area of the reelseat. The sinker slides in and out very easy and the washer is not in the way
A drinking water bottle with a loop on it and a wide mouth make a great holder for keyes and a cellphone. Put the loop through one of your seat straps and it will be withen easy reach. The water bottle can be used to rinse sand off of your yak when you come in.
Last, put your kayak dolly on the trunk of your and secure it down with the wheels up so that you can roll your yak up to the roof racks rather than lifting it.

[dsafety]

When I use a drop-shot rig in the bay I like to use a two oz. torpedo sinker. I used to take it off of the snap swivel every time a location change was called for. It would be removed to prevent it from swinging and damaging the rod or getting tangled with other rods. Now I use a washer from a garden hose that is zip tied to the threaded area of the reelseat. The sinker slides in and out very easy and the washer is not in the way
A drinking water bottle with a loop on it and a wide mouth make a great holder for keyes and a cellphone. Put the loop through one of your seat straps and it will be withen easy reach. The water bottle can be used to rinse sand off of your yak when you come in.
Last, put your kayak dolly on the trunk of your and secure it down with the wheels up so that you can roll your yak up to the roof racks rather than lifting it.

Your ideas sound interesting. How about photos of the sinker holder and trunk/wheel rig.

Bob

[senojmj]

Not sure if this is an innovation, but my take on adding a downrigger to a crate. I already had a downrigger from my fishing boat (which is used less and less). I didn't want a permanent installation until I see how much I actually use it. I had some leftover cutting boards which bolted on either side of the crate with mounting base on the outside. I was lucky enough to find a crate with a metal ring around the top, so it pretty strong.
1884
1885
Next I needed a way to lock the crate down. I used some U-bolts and pvc and have go into the rod holders behind the seat. They are angled in and do a nice job keeping it down. The one end is not glued shut so I can take it off when I want to.
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I really enjoy seeing all the different ideas on this forum. Thanks.

[GregAndrew]

I would love to hear how the downrigger affects the handling of your yak. I was considering the same thing for trout fishing up in Idaho, and was concerned about the drag. Do you peddle or paddle?

[DESTROYER]

Andy- That is SICK:cheers1:

[senojmj]

I would love to hear how the downrigger affects the handling of your yak. I was considering the same thing for trout fishing up in Idaho, and was concerned about the drag. Do you peddle or paddle?

I tried to do some homework, and found that most people are replacing the existing line with a braided line with a smaller diameter and using a 2-3 lb. weight. I also shortened the boom on mine as well. I paddle, so we will see how it goes. That is why I decided to mount it on the crate, if i find it doesn't work well. Like you, I am gunning for some lake trout that run deep in Northern Utah, especially at Bear Lake.

[Ed]

Simple solution to keep gear in the bow from sliding around. Goop, padeyes and bungee. Held up for over a year.
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/Kayak_Mods_007.jpg

[Duke]

Hey senojmj, what size pvc did you use to put inside the flush mount?

[Iceman]

Ed, that is some Amazing Goop!

BTW made this post a sticky too much good stuff, Thanks Bob for lighting the fire!

[wiseguy]

Ever had the problem of rusted out on/off switches due to the salt water? I would like the credit for this but it was not my innovation, but works like a charm!

Using an air button and an air switch like they use in spas, I installed the air switch inside the battery box that powers my bait tank and the button on deck at an easy reach. The way this works is the button sends a pulse down the tube to the switch and triggers the power. No worries about salt water corroding this plastic button! Looks neat too! Two years later, still working like new!

[senojmj]

Hey senojmj, what size pvc did you use to put inside the flush mount?

1 1/4 inch, it fits nice and snug. Be easy to make rod extenders too.

[Iceman]

water pick up thru tank scupper. This is a similar variation of the Hobie tank set up.

cut down a 90 male 1" thread to 3/4 hose elbow so it fits in the channel flush, the screw splits the opening in half to keep debri out.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/IMG_2357.JPG

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/IMG_2356.JPG

Easily changed out to most kayaks.....skanky after rain bay water:rolleyes:

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/IMG_2350.JPG

Simple way of getting that thru hull set up with out drilling those big holes. A little forward momentum is all it takes to prime/ 6 volt kept prime and worked well.

[dsafety]

If you have a Hobie Livewell or any other bait tank fed from the bottom of the tank through a scupper hole, you have probably run into the problem of your bait tank draining when you turn the pump off, (or your battery dies). Here is a simple solution that problem.

You will need a quick disconnect fitting, (female hose thread to male pipe thread), a female to male threaded El fitting and a short piece of plastic hose. I used the quick disconnect fitting because I had one laying around but you could probably make this using all threaded fittings and even a solid piece of PVC pipe.

1936


Assemble the parts as shown in the photo above and attach the quick disconnect fitting to the output of the pump and you are done.

1937

If you want to make the water in the tank circulate to simulate a current for your bait to swim against, position the hose on the bottom of the tank. If you want to keep the tank from draining when the pump is turned off, twist the fitting so the hose points vertically. When in this position, the water in the tank will not drain below the top of the input or drain pipe, (whichever is lower).

Have fun.

Bob

[cjthomas]

I have a question about running a FF and bait tank from the same 12V battery for you innovators... Can I just switch the wiring of the bilge pump without affecting the FF?

Or.... has anybody used the computer fan speed control with success?

[dsafety]

I have a question about running a FF and bait tank from the same 12V battery for you innovators... Can I just switch the wiring of the bilge pump without affecting the FF?

Or.... has anybody used the computer fan speed control with success?

In my experience, most people use a 6v battery to power the bait tank and a 12v for the FF. You can use a 12 for the tank but it makes the pump run much faster than needed.

You could probably put some sort of a rheostat in line to the pump motor to reduce the voltage but I have never tried that solution.

Bob

[SteveK]

With the 12 volt battery , the run time will be shorter than with a 6 volt
Here's a stand up bar mounted on the Trax rail

[senojmj]

dsafety,

my being a novice to the sport is going to show here. I bought my kayak with the transducer already installed on the inside of the hull. If I were to switch to a wet installation like you did, in theory I could obtain a better reading? The water is permanently sealed in with the transducer? Not sure what my transducer was glued down with. I have heard the bubbles in the adhesive could interfere with readings. Another novice (read: dumb) question: Does it matter where inside the kayak it is mounted? Currently it is just under the seat behind a scupper hole on the starboard side. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Jeff

[dsafety]

Hi Jeff,

"In theory", you should get better performance with the wet mount. I am not aware of anyone actually doing before and after tests but it makes sense if you can get rid of the bubbles that commonly form in Goop installations, things should work better.

As for how your existing transducer is currently mounted, if your transducer is glued in place with some clear silicon, it is probably a Goop installation. You can remove the transducer by carefully sliding a knife or other sharp tool under the unit until it eventually breaks away from the hull. You will then have to shave away all the Goop, eliminating any bubbles that may have formed.

As for where the transducer should be mounted, I doubt that it makes much of a difference in a kayak but I prefer having it mounted near the bow so the fish finder will display what I am approaching rather than what I have already passed.

If you have more questions about the wet transducer installation, visit this thread where it is discussed is more detail.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/showthread.php?t=6508

Bob

[dgax65]

Bob's (DSAFETY) very slick transducer mount really got my attention: http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/showthread.php?t=6508

Even though I had pretty good results with Gooped transducers, I've been thinking about doing a wet mount for quite some time. Seeing Bob's elegant and simple mount made me want to give it a try. As luck would have it, I had just recently purchased a Stealth 14 and it gave me a chance to try out a wet mount. There were only two problems: 1) I have a Lowrance FF and the transducer is absolutely ginourmous, 2) I don't have the engineering/fabrication skills of Bob. With these two handicaps I launched headlong into my project.

I wish that Lowrance would make a smaller dual frequency transducer. The skimmer transducer that came with my Lowrance 527 FF/GPS is about the size and shape of an ironing board. It won't fit in a 3" PVC pipe. It won't even fit in the 4" ABS coupler that I ran out and bought before measuring the transducer. I had to use a little of my smarts and innovative thinking to come up with a solution. Unfortunately, I was a little short of smarts and innovation this week, so this is what I came up with.

I figured that it would be really cool to be able to see the water in the transducer well. After all, you have to know how much water is in there and if it's turning green. My solution; Lexan. That's right; Lexan. Why use a box that you find in your parts bin when you can spend two days building the damn thing.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/610/Transducer_Wet_Well_001_Medium_.jpg

Its a little bit on the clunky side. Not very elegant or clean looking, but it has transparent sides (until the algae turns it a murky green). Kinda looks like my old erector set that I had when I was 9.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/610/Transducer_Wet_Well_004_Medium_.jpg

Like a vintage Soviet tank, this thing is ugly, but strong. Aluminum angle on the corners, plenty of Goop and bolts-bolts everywhere.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/610/Transducer_Wet_Well_006_Medium_.jpg

It actually looks pretty badass in that photo. Kind of like the Enterprise in the space dock. Trust me; Scotty didn't build this monstrosity.....more like one of the dorks in the red shirt who gets whacked when he beams down to the planet surface.

I couldn't trust this install to Goop. I used 3M 5200 to attach it to the hull (CJ recommended this). I roughed up the hull with coarse-grit sandpaper first, to get better adhesion.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/610/Transducer_Wet_Well_008_Medium_.jpg

We'll see if it is still attached when I open it up in the morning.

BTW: That is a fill plug on the forward end. I will be sealing the cable pass-through with a rubber bung and Gooping it into place.

[THE CALI HOOKUP!]

I have the same wet mount transducer bob has works fine
yours is cool to, I like translucent container you used for your project. Allows you to if the transducer is paralell with the bottom of the hull.

[dsafety]

That's right; Lexan. Why use a box that you find in your parts bin when you can spend two days building the damn thing.

Now that's the spirit of innovation. Two days in the shop gets you out of a lot of honey-dos.

I like the idea of the well being clear so you can check the water level. The last time I went out, my Humminbird Matrix 12 started acting up. I ended up having to shimmy up to the bow, pull out my trusty Swiss Army Knife and pop the top off of my unit made of ABS to make sure that it was still full of water. (It was.) Having a well made of some clear material would have made that step unnecessary. I wonder if there is a source for clear plastic pipe in 3 or 4 inch diameters?

A couple observations. It has been a while since I worked with Lexan but if memory serves, this material can be easily welded using acetone. Assuming the weld works, (you could goop the corners as well), that would eliminate the need for all the metal braces. Of course then the thing would not look as cool.

Also, I like the portability that being able to detach the transducer from the well using a rubber cap provides. Does your design offer a way to do this?

Finally, I do believe that the Lowrance transducer can be made to fit into a 4" piece of ABS pipe. The 3" one that works for Humminbird is too small. Cali Hookup and I collaborated on a version of my design to fit his Lowrance unit. We got it to work although it just barely fit.

Nice work Doug.

Bob

[FISHIONADO]

I use a factory wet mount from Garmin. It recommends using mineral oil in the well but I use fresh water and it works fine. I've considered putting saltwater in to see if I get better readings but never got around to it. I get good readings to about 700 ft. I remove the heavy transducer when transporting the yak upside down. This model allows you to install on a surface not level to the bottom and then adjust the transducer so that it is level.

Garmin - Garmin 200/50KHz, 12/45deg, Plastic, Adj. In-hull Mount Transducer 010-10327-00

Installed 2006, still no leaks.
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/P2052390.JPG

I was sloppy with the 3M 5200, but the bottom of the well is clean so that it is only shooting through water and the yak's plastic.
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/500/P2052391.JPG

[dgax65]

I wonder if there is a source for clear plastic pipe in 3 or 4 inch diameters?

A couple observations. It has been a while since I worked with Lexan but if memory serves, this material can be easily welded using acetone. Assuming the weld works, (you could goop the corners as well), that would eliminate the need for all the metal braces. Of course then the thing would not look as cool.

Also, I like the portability that being able to detach the transducer from the well using a rubber cap provides. Does your design offer a way to do this?

Finally, I do believe that the Lowrance transducer can be made to fit into a 4" piece of ABS pipe. The 3" one that works for Humminbird is too small. Cali Hookup and I collaborated on a version of my design to fit his Lowrance unit. We got it to work although it just barely fit.
Bob

I didn't know about the acetone. See; you learn something new everyday. It might have looked a little better without all the angle; however, if my childhood hobby of making plastic models taught me anything, it is that I suck at making models. I always ended up with model glue all over the seams and fingerprints permanently etched everywhere. The Lexan box would probably have looked no better than the Monogram 1/48th scale B-17 that I F'd up when I was in seventh grade.

Quickly detach the transducer......no. This baby is about as permanent as the top three floors of the Sunroad building in Kearny Mesa. If I have to move it I'm going to need a pry bar and some explosives.

I think I might have been able to get the transducer in the 4" coupler if I had really tried. I gave up on it because I thought it would be too much work. Instead, I spent two days working on this. THINKING.....now there's my problem.

I'm going to scrap this thing if it doesn't give me perfect performance the first time out. I'll just go back to the tried and true Goop. I would love to get one of those through-hull transducers, but all of the ones that work with my FF are ungodly expensive. If they didn't cost $800, I would just get a bronze thru-hull with a fairing.

[WahooUSMA]

Fahq me, you guys need to quit coming up with this McGyver sheeeet. Now, I want to rip out my "NEW" wet mount trans (haven't even put mine in the water yet!) and install a transparent giz-mo out of plexiglass. All and all, way too cool of a set up.

BTW I have the same ginormous Lowrance transducer as you and it did fit well into the 4 in ABS adapter. I'll post some pic's of mine shortly. The only GOAT &^%$ about the 4in adapter vs the 3in adapter is the stiffness of the cap in 4in. I am concerned that after time, from checking the level of water and having to shimmy the cap off for inspection, the adapter seal may come loose from the hull.

[dsafety]

I am concerned that after time, from checking the level of water and having to shimmy the cap off for inspection, the adapter seal may come loose from the hull.

I agree. Lets put the word out and try to find a source for clear 3 and 4" pipe. If we can find that material we get the best of both worlds. With a clear well we would be able to easily check the water level while retaining the ability to have the transducer removable and therefore portable.

Bob

[justinwoods]

Hello...first time post here. Was sent from another forum to check out this very post. Here is a great resource for all kinds of parts and I did find Clear pipe and fittings.

The PVC pipe is expensive but if you have enough people who wanted it maybe you could split it up... http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-pipe-fittings-and-pipe/=5ouetf

Just click the picture of the pipe to see the sizes available...1/4 - 6"

Here is another one, but acrylic. This is cheaper...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#acrylic-pipe/=5oukom

[WahooUSMA]

Okay, I think I uploaded my pic's correctly for the 4in wet transducer. My only regret in the overall install was the fact that the adapter is as large the Javelin Anti-Armour round and would not fit under the useless rear hatch. I think that would be the perfect spot for 1956195719581959 the transducer.

[dgax65]

Very nice. Now I see where I went wrong. The coupler I had was too long. If the MacGyver fish tank doesn't work I'll have a backup. Thanks

and......

Go Navy - Beat Army :)

[WahooUSMA]

Very nice. Now I see where I went wrong. The coupler I had was too long. If the MacGyver fish tank doesn't work I'll have a backup. Thanks

and......

Go Navy - Beat Army :)

Im a little slow...ya know, LA Unified educated but just got it! There's always next year...we did at least beat you in sailing. Go figure!

[dsafety]

About two years ago, I bought a Hobie Revolution and joined the yakfisher community. The Revo is a very well designed kayak but it is not without its flaws. One of the biggest issues I had with my boat from the beginning was the placement of the molded rod holders. They are too far to the stern to be very useful to me. My solution to this problem at the time was to build a “trolling bar” which gave me the ability to place two rods in a more accessible location and at an angle that is more suitable for trolling than the stock setup. You can see this device below.

2000

This trolling bar served me well until I picked up a Hobie Livewell a few months ago. While I could use the trolling bar with this bait tank, the supporting cross bar got in the way of the tank lid so it could not be opened all the way. I had wanted to update the trolling bar design for some time so this gave me the incentive to head to the shop and get to work.


The goal was to design something that could be inserted into the molded rod holders and create a readily accessible, sturdy rod storage/trolling apparatus. The device would have to be easily installed and removed. The most important design objective was to move the rod holder positioning forward so that the rods could be easily reached without having to twist sideways while seated in the yak. A bonus goal was to make the angle of the rod holder adjustable from straight up for storage to about 60 degrees out for trolling.


I think I nailed it!

2001


Below you will see the various pieces of PVC and ABS components prior to assembly. The total cost of the parts needed to build one of these is less than $10.

2002


Because my 2008 Revo has the rudder raising and lowering lever mounted on the starboard side next to the seat, I had to make two versions of this device which I call the inboard and outboard versions. The inboard design is well braced against the kayak so it may be a little sturdier. On the other hand this design takes up some space in the bait tank well, so on some narrow kayaks the outboard design may be a better choice. The newer Hobies no longer use a rudder lever so both versions will work on either side of the latest Hobie yaks. The photo below shows both versions installed with the rod holders in the trolling position.

2003

Assembly is easy. Start by cutting a piece of 1.25” PVC pipe just long enough to fit into the molded rod holder. Wrap this pipe with duct tape until the pipe fits snugly into the rod holder, (I use Gorilla Tape because it is very tough). Place a 1.25” to 1.5” slip adapter over the end of the pipe. (DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING YET!)

Next fit a 1.5" sink trap assembly over the adapter. There are two versions of sink traps. One you glue together, the other has an integrated tightening collar that holds the two pieces together. Both will work for this project. I used the glue together version because it was cheaper.

The next piece to go on is a 60 degree elbow. This will be attached to the sink trap on one end, and to a 1.5” slip/thread adapter on the other with short pieces of 1.5” ABS pipe. The length of these pieces of pipe will be determined by the type of kayak you have and where you want the rod holder to be. The longer these pieces are the further forward the rod holder will end up. After some experimenting, I found that the best place for the rod holder to be, for my usage, is an inch or two behind the back of the kayak seat. This is about a foot forward of the stock rod holder position but still far enough back so it will not interfere with paddling. One of the reasons for not gluing anything right away is that there are many adjustments you can make in terms of length and angles. If you want the rod holder to end up further forward that what I did, just use a longer piece of connecting pipe.

If you want to always have your rod holder in the same angle position, you will not need to use the male and female threaded adapters that go on next. Just attach a 90 degree elbow to the 60 degree elbow from the last step. For the adjustable version, mate a male and female threaded adapter to the two elbows. Tighten these adapters so they are almost all the way in but still have enough travel to allow you to tighten or loosen in order to position the rod holder where you want it to be.

Finally, cut a 10” to 12” piece of 1.5” ABS pipe and fit it in the 90 degree elbow. I cut the top at an angle to make it easier to insert the rod butt but this is optional. When all the pieces are attached together, insert the PVC pipe into the kayak’s rod holder. Twist and turn the various components until you are happy with the positioning of all the pieces. You want the device to fit easily into the molded rod holder and at some point near the other end, make contact with the kayak. This will be the anchor point where you will eventually strap the device to the kayak.

2004

My instructions may sound a little complicated but they will all make perfect sense when you have the pieces in your hands and start putting things together. When you are happy with the way everything fits, put some alignment marks on all the connecting pieces so you can reproduce the angles and connections. Double check everything again and then glue the pieces together.

The last steps are done after all the pieces have been glued together. You will need to find a way strap the installed device to your kayak at the point that it touches the deck near the new rod holder end. I first used a Velcro strap that had been threaded through a nylon eyelet that I riveted to the kayak in a suitable place. This works but I am looking for a stronger strap that can be tightened more than the Velcro will allow. One of those ratchet buckles from a ski boot or snowboard binding would be perfect. When I find one, I will give this a try. You can also use a belt, a piece of rope or even a zip tie which would have to be cut off when you want to remove this device.

The last step is to set the angles of the rod holder. With the unit installed, twist the rod holder end to a vertical position. Drill a small hole through both pieces of the threaded adapter and insert a pin in the hole to lock the rod holder in this position. Remove the pin; reposition the rod holder at the angle or angles that you would like to use for trolling and drill additional holes, using the first hole as a pilot hole. Make sure the pin fits in these positions and you are done.

Although I designed this device to be used on a Revo, this design can easily be adapted to work on just about any kayak with molded rod holders located behind the seat. I have tested this setup on the water and it works great. I have much better access to my bait tank than with the trolling bar and can easily monitor the rod tips while trolling without having to twist and contort myself from side to side. I also gain two handy storage locations for rods or a gaff. After the maiden voyage, I added a couple of eyelets to each of these units to serve as attachment points for gear leashes.

The first one of these things that I built took hours of trial and error. The second one took less than ten minutes to build. I think that this thing may be one of the most useful mods I have come up with so far. What do you think?

Bob

[dtownfan]

Bob's (DSAFETY) very slick transducer mount really got my attention: http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/showthread.php?t=6508

Even though I had pretty good results with Gooped transducers, I've been thinking about doing a wet mount for quite some time. Seeing Bob's elegant and simple mount made me want to give it a try. As luck would have it, I had just recently purchased a Stealth 14 and it gave me a chance to try out a wet mount. There were only two problems: 1) I have a Lowrance FF and the transducer is absolutely ginourmous, 2) I don't have the engineering/fabrication skills of Bob. With these two handicaps I launched headlong into my project.

I wish that Lowrance would make a smaller dual frequency transducer. The skimmer transducer that came with my Lowrance 527 FF/GPS is about the size and shape of an ironing board. It won't fit in a 3" PVC pipe. It won't even fit in the 4" ABS coupler that I ran out and bought before measuring the transducer. I had to use a little of my smarts and innovative thinking to come up with a solution. Unfortunately, I was a little short of smarts and innovation this week, so this is what I came up with.

I figured that it would be really cool to be able to see the water in the transducer well. After all, you have to know how much water is in there and if it's turning green. My solution; Lexan. That's right; Lexan. Why use a box that you find in your parts bin when you can spend two days building the damn thing.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/610/Transducer_Wet_Well_001_Medium_.jpg

Its a little bit on the clunky side. Not very elegant or clean looking, but it has transparent sides (until the algae turns it a murky green). Kinda looks like my old erector set that I had when I was 9.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/610/Transducer_Wet_Well_004_Medium_.jpg

Like a vintage Soviet tank, this thing is ugly, but strong. Aluminum angle on the corners, plenty of Goop and bolts-bolts everywhere.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/610/Transducer_Wet_Well_006_Medium_.jpg

It actually looks pretty badass in that photo. Kind of like the Enterprise in the space dock. Trust me; Scotty didn't build this monstrosity.....more like one of the dorks in the red shirt who gets whacked when he beams down to the planet surface.

I couldn't trust this install to Goop. I used 3M 5200 to attach it to the hull (CJ recommended this). I roughed up the hull with coarse-grit sandpaper first, to get better adhesion.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/610/Transducer_Wet_Well_008_Medium_.jpg

We'll see if it is still attached when I open it up in the morning.

BTW: That is a fill plug on the forward end. I will be sealing the cable pass-through with a rubber bung and Gooping it into place.


How did it work? I am working on the contour for my wet mount tonight. Did the contour of the bottom allow for a good reading with your unit?

[Adam12]

Heres something I recently put together to keep my battery box from sliding around.
I gooped some of that stuff you line your drawers with to the bottom of the box for grip.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q39/adams12/Outback/IMG_1024-1.jpg
After I figured out where I wanted the box to sit, I roughed up the bottom of 2 pad eye's and the inside of the hull. I gooped a pad eye on each side of where the box will be situated........Yes, gooped. It's actually quite strong.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q39/adams12/Outback/IMG_1027.jpg
I sized up a piece of 1/4" bungee cord and put a open hook on each end. I tried the other type of hook with the locking tab and they are damn near impossible to unhook.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q39/adams12/Outback/IMG_1033.jpg
Tadaaaa, it sits in there nice and tight. http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q39/adams12/Outback/pimp.gif
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q39/adams12/Outback/IMG_1034.jpg

[Jimmyz123]

I'm loving all these ideas. So far they have saved me a lot of money. I am making my own leashes for rods, paddle, and anything else that needs to be lashed to the Yak.

[sandydiego]

Has anyone tried putting grease in the wet mount like they have for the hummingbird 385 kayak setup?

[Jimmyz123]

not yet, but it makes sense

[dsafety]

I have never played with the grease. I would have two concerns. Does the grease transmit as well as water? More importantly, does the grease flow when it gets warm?

I store my kayak upside down so if the well were partially filled with grease and flowed to the lid while in storage there could be some issues when the yak is flipped over if all the grease is stuck to the lid of the well.

I suppose you could completely fill the well with grease but why do that if water works?

Bob

[dtownfan]

never used grease.....i vote water. i made a version of bob's wet mount and love it. it has worked very well and you never will have to worry about the mess you could have. i have the 2010 570 hummingbird. i have been out on 3 full day trips and love my readings.

water = no bubbles......grease i am not sure about.

plus++++++ water is free!

[fongman]

The wellnuts/screws on a Hobie Adventure can easily be used as mounting points. I used the ones near the front hatch to fasten a polycarbonate shelf for my fishfinder base. When I changed from a Humminbird to Garmin, no big deal; I just drilled new holes. Polycarbonate is very strong and will not crack like acrylic.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/Adventure-MountingShelf.jpg

I made aluminum mounting plates for the ones behind the seat. These are used to support the pvc rodholder I made. The plate provides front-to-back stability while the V construction provides side-to-side stability. Other features that I like of this rodholders design is that they are angled at about 45 degrees, they have a low center of gravity, the mass is kept close to the centerline of the kayak, and the rods are within easy reach.

In addition, they point slightly forward or back, depending upon which direction they are mounted. When pointed forward, the tips of the rods can be seen without much effort.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/Adventure-Rodholders-FWD.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/th_Adventure-Rodholders-BCK.jpg

I also built some extension tubes for the builtin rodholders. I use these for my bass rods. Electrician tape wrapped over one layer of corktape on 1 1/4" pvc creates a snug fit. Instead of using lanyards to secure the rods, the bungies are looped over the reel handles.

[dsafety]

Very cool Fongman. I really like the bungee loops on the rod holders. I will be adding them to all of my rod holders. What a great idea.

Can you post a photo that details that design? What did you use to attach the bungee cord together to make the loop?

Bob

[fongman]

Very cool Fongman. I really like the bungee loops on the rod holders. I will be adding them to all of my rod holders. What a great idea.

Can you post a photo that details that design? What did you use to attach the bungee cord together to make the loop?

Bob

Bob,

Those are pre-made for tarps. You can get them at any DIY store. I just shortened the ones on the extenders and slipped a 1" piece of plastic tubing over it so I could attach the zip tie.

[nachorenzais]

ill have to try some of your ideas

[TheNewGuy81]

My vote goes to Jim....

[WahooUSMA]

I agree. Lets put the word out and try to find a source for clear 3 and 4" pipe. If we can find that material we get the best of both worlds. With a clear well we would be able to easily check the water level while retaining the ability to have the transducer removable and therefore portable.

Bob
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

My fear of separation of the wet transducer, 4in PVC pipe and hull came true. I don’t know if it was from loading and unloading on the truck, the beach landing at LJ the other day, or the constant hull movement from my peddles, but regardless, when I went out on Sunday it was dry. When I added water it leaked immediately. While I think the wet transducer is a neat set up, I think I am going back to the thru-hull-goop method. I am not totally convinced the image quality of a wet mount is that much better than the 'shoot through' system. It’s definitely more of a hassle and you have to be cognizant of the damn pipe when loading up.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
I might try installing the transducer through the rear hatch vs. in the front hatch.....any thoughts???<o:p></o:p>

[dsafety]

ffice:office" /><O:p></O:p>

My fear of separation of the wet transducer, 4in PVC pipe and hull came true. I don’t know if it was from loading and unloading on the truck, the beach landing at LJ the other day, or the constant hull movement from my peddles, but regardless, when I went out on Sunday it was dry. When I added water it leaked immediately. While I think the wet transducer is a neat set up, I think I am going back to the thru-hull-goop method. I am not totally convinced the image quality of a wet mount is that much better than the 'shoot through' system. It’s definitely more of a hassle and you have to be cognizant of the damn pipe when loading up.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
I might try installing the transducer through the rear hatch vs. in the front hatch.....any thoughts???<O:p></O:p>

I had the same problem last week after a particularly brutal launch attempt. I removed my well and reinstalled it, this time putting a 3/4" wide thin coat of goop installed like caulk on the outside of the well. I doubt there will be any future leaks.

Bob

[deepdvr]

I also tried the wet install using a rectangular walmart brand drybox. Worked great the first time but on the second trip the rough launch knocked around some items in my front hatch and the goop failed. No water = no finder that day.

I copied an idea from the darkhorse but mine uses the factory transom mount to attach the transducer to the sail mast on my revolution and all it does is sit flush to the hull. I add maybe a cup of water in the hull and voila. The zip ties are snug but not impossible to move and re-position. They can be swapped out in a second and it is difficult for anything to bang into it and cause it to shift. Worst case scenario, you slide forward and readjust. It picked up a signal instantaneously and never lost the bottom even through the 15 knot winds on Sunday PM. That area of the revo is a natural low spot and doesn't need much water to perform perfectly.

I really like that the transducer sits behind the mast and doesn't come into direct contact with other items in the front hatch.

I never had a good reading with two different goop installations.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ericedb/transducer_1.jpg

I did not add the factory lock washers on the main bolt/cotter pin that holds the transducer to the transom mount so that gravity will naturally hold the transducer flush with the hull.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ericedb/transducer_2.jpg

If you really want it permanent, buy a clamp that will fit on the other side of the sail mast and clamp it in position.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ericedb/transducer_3.jpg

[WahooUSMA]

Thats cool. I will give it a shot. Maybe I can fabricate a clamp??

[deepdvr]

a rod clamp might work??? But seriously, I don't think you need anything more than the zip ties. Just check before launching and have a few spares with you.

[RoeBoat]

I add maybe a cup of water in the hull and voila.

Only a cup of water? Doesn't the water end up under the seat? I always thought the bottom of the transducer had to be submerged in goop or water to allow the signals to pass thru the hull. If that isn't the case, why bother with the goop?

[WahooUSMA]

I re-read your post....are you say you toss into the boat a cup of water? Why? doesn't the transducer below the waterline? Help me out here. I like the set up!

[dsafety]

Can you get a decent reading without having water in the bottom of the hull? If so, this might be a really good way to go.

As a practical matter, most kayaks usually have a little water splashing around, at least mine does. If the transducer is mounted in a space where it is in the lowest part of the hull you should always have some water surrounding the unit. If the transducer is secured tightly to the hull, I suspect that not much water would be needed to make the thing work.

If the lowest place in the boat is not by something you can attach to such as the mast in your example, there is another easy way to strap a transducer to the hull so you can position it just about anywhere. I did this to secure my battery case below the rear hatch in my Revo.

Just take two plastic eyelets, (OEX has them), and goop them to the hull on either side of whatever you want to strap down. After the glue has cured, run some webbing with a cinch buckle through the eyelets and strap down the unit. You could also use some bungee material.

Bob

[deepdvr]

Trust me it works. I doubt Josh P. would use this method with his high end finder if it didn't.

You need some water touching the transducer, but not alot. My boat, knock on wood, is pretty dry, so I add a cup or so once I'm ready to turn it on.

I can't speak for other yaks, but with the Hobie revolution the sail mast area is very low and the water never leaves that area even when the new seaforth is throwing up 4' wakes.

There were serious whitecaps and swell on the water at 5PM on sunday and my finder never faltered. After the wind subsided, I checked the hull to see if much if any water entered and it was about the same level.

The beauty of this system is you can start with very little water. If your reading comes and goes, just add more water.

[newguy01]

my plan is bait tank/ rod holder, rod holder and the pipe transducer mount. i have found a scrap 13 inch drain pipe about 12in long when they were doing the sewage repair at my work, that i will be using as a bait tank with built in rod holder and make a contraption rod holder that will use the existing molded rod hoder on my recently bought revo. the bait tank will be kinda like the hobie bait tank, i am thinking may be 5-6 rod holder n built in batery holder too. and i thank everyone here for the great ideas and insparation. right now i am gathering the material i might take me a week to finish the project due a little 1yr todler running around that touches everithing she see .

[nachorenzais]

just killing time with my daughter new at this and getting ready for mexico

[newguy01]

here is the pic t6ures of the bait tank i was working on and test it last saturday, and it work great and the rod holder look good to but havent realy tested the rode holder yet since o got skunk on sat. i thank everyone on this board for the ideas and innovative from this community. tight lines to everyone and be safe out there

[fongman]

Here's one for the Hobie guys who haven't already remedied the flip flopping peddles. Jared at FastLane showed me how the new Hobie peddles have solved the problem. A small piece of 1/8" shock cord is attached from the top of the crank to the backside of the pedal. This is how I adapted this method. It is much lighter than gooping 2 oz weights to the bottom of the pedals.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0034.jpg

If you want to put standard size lure boxes inside of your kayak, this method will keep them from moving and when you use the bungee, it will secure them in case you flip. :(
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0027.jpg
I took a container like this and cut off the bottom, then split it in half. http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0025.jpg
Take a tarp bungee and pull the knot out of the ball. Cut off the knot and then attach each end to a side of the tray holder with an overhand knot. Adding a drainage hole in the corner will keep any water from collecting inside of the holder. Goop it in place and you're done.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0026.jpg

The last idea is more of a tip. Keep a supply of 1/8" stainless steel rod is handy. I have used it to make replacement hooks for rubber straps, dehookers, screen the outflow tube of a bt, bottom for rodholders, http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0006.jpg
sliding bungee hooks, and loops added to eyelets so additional connections can be made to it.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0002.jpg
Industrial Metals Supply carries it in 10 foot (?) length for not too much.

[young mola]

not really my innovation but it was pretty cool. was fishing the oside harbor on monday and ran into a guy that turned his rear storage area into a seat for his kid. he put in some eyelets and mounted a seat there. they just sat back to back and the kid fished backwards... i dont have any kids but thought it might be useful to someone..
:cheers1:

[aftahour]

a rod clamp might work??? But seriously, I don't think you need anything more than the zip ties. Just check before launching and have a few spares with you.

try 3m double sided tape.. thats what i did.. tryed 5200 w/ no luck and local store didnt have goop..

[JPBeck]

I don't know if this qualifies--
I got rid of my Jeep and got a new truck, my Yakimal towers wouldn't fit, nor did I want to spend another $500 bucks on Yakimal's truck bed tower system.
Soooooo I bought a $150 dollar ladder rack.

But..
I didn't want to drill holes in my truck.
So I welded two pieces of pipe onto the side of each bracket-- and got some "J" bolts. The "J" bolts run through the pipe and down along side the truck's rail-- the J part hooks under the rail and then I crank a bolt down to tighten the brackets down. The bar at the top of the rack puts more pressure against the brackets (horizontally) at the bottom.

They aren't going anywhere. To top it off takes me about 10 minutes to remove the whole thing!

Then I just installed my old Yakimal Hullyrollers and Mako Kayak saddles via stainless steel hose clamps.

So for a total of about $200 bucks I got a nice solid kayak rack.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/jpbeck1/IMG_0247.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/jpbeck1/IMG_0246.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/jpbeck1/IMG_0245.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/jpbeck1/IMG_0244.jpg

The yellow yak is my wife's Navigator the white yak is my Fish'n'Dive

Haven't figured out how to transport my son's Cobra Explorer... any Ideas?

[dsafety]

Haven't figured out how to transport my son's Cobra Explorer... any Ideas?

You seem to be pretty handy with a welding torch. Why not make a bracket that attaches to what you have which creates a second level so you can stack another row of kayaks. Make it removable so it will not be in the way if you only have to carry two yaks.

Bob

[sandydiego]

I have a shell on my 2009 f150. I have a 6ft bed and put my pro angler in the back. The shell has a yakama rack on it for two more on the top.

[newguy01]

check out harbor freight and ask for the truck bed extender the connects to your square hitch receiver it only cost me 35$ its quisk and easy to removed/install

[JPBeck]

I like both idea'ers--- thanks
I'll post pictures asap.
Thanks again.

[tagyak]

thought that i would add me two cents to this forum:

made rod leashes and hobie pedal leash, average cost was $5
materials: climbing rope (sport chalet .59 per ft), shock cord (sport chalet .39 per ft), quick release tabs (walmart 2pair $1 something), clips (walmart 2pc less than $1)
ran the shock cord (doubled it) thru the climbing rope. measured the climbing rope for 38" then stretched the shock cord to the max and then sewed the ends, leave 4" for quick release male end, this does not need the shock cord.
then sew up the other female end of quick release to climbing rope 6" long. make sure to add some shock cord tie a double knot to end long enough to use to lock down the fishing rod or pedals.
hope this helps. if you don't sew, take these over to your local dry cleaners, and see if they can do the sewing for you. you'll need a pretty strong sewing machine to get thru the shock cord.
the climbing rope and shock cord are great. sport chalet gives a good guide line of what type of weight these can take.
here are some pictures.

[tagyak]

i tried to use goop to mount my transponder, but it did not work so well. finally switched it over to a wet mount. thought i would share what i did.

used a plastic container, the cheap type that is sold by glad or reynolds the type that comes in a pack of 5 or something like it. this is so that the plastic is softer and will give with the yak as it twist and turns.
cut out the bottom of the container and used goop to seal the edges. i squeezed alot of it around the bottom of the container then pushed it down to the bottom of the yak behind my sail mast on the hobie, but first took out the sail mast by unscrewing it. than let it kinda set, but before it set thoroughly, i ran my finger around the edges on the inside and out side of the container. felt for open seams. then added more goop around the edges of the container, ran my finger around it again. let it set over night and checked for any leaks. so far so good, no leaks.
took my lid and drilled a hole big enough for the cable, then cut the top of the lid like an X to allow for me to push the transponder thru to the other side. pushed the cable to the hole and used duct tape to seal the bottom of the lid.
i have been using this for a few weeks and had not had any leaks. i transported the yak to L.J. and back. still holding water. hope this helps you guys.

[tagyak]

i found a rack mount for tools in sears. they use earth magnets so that you can attach yard tools or what not to the wall mounted rack. i instead found a better use for these puppies.
took the wall rack and cut it in half, used a hack saw. then mounted each half inside the center hatch of my hobie outback. i used goop for this.
there are these attachments that came with the wall rack that you would use for the handles of the yard tools. i instead mounted these into the bottom of my yak to keep my trays from moving around inside. they also have a magnet so i attached piece of metal to the tray using a rivet gun and that in turn is held by the magnet from moving around.
i got some tackle boxes from big 5 or bass pro shop, big enough to hold most of my gear, but not too big that it won't fit into the 8" round hatch. got some metal strips from a hardware store and just tape these onto the bottom of the boxes using duct tape.
they slide into the hatch and sits on top of the earth magnets. they don't move around, but they are still easy enough to get out of the hatch without too much effort.
i added some trays from target. using one to hold my hooks. i added a piece of rubber foam from mouse pad to the lid of my hook container. the hooks were moving into other compartments and also getting wet.
i also took the plastic from the mouse pad and cut it into the shape of the hatch. i mounted this using contact cement the type that you spray on (a 3m product). i did this so that i can use it for a cutting board for bait.
here are some pictures.

[tagyak]

this is a picture of the mouse pad i used to my cutting board.

[dsafety]

Fishing has been a little slow so to help keep the juices going, I went to the shop and started tinkering.

One of the biggest issues associated with fishing from a kayak is where to stow the gear. We have hatches in the bow and stern but most of the time these storage areas are hard to get to while on the water. The center hatch is golden but usually crammed full of the most essential gear. Where do you keep the important, but not mission critical gear?

Some of the really big kayaks have lots of easily accessible storage areas in the "cockpit". I ride a Revo which, while a great kayak, does not offer much in the way of accessible storage. Somehow we still manage to make do but I know things could be better. I started thinking about ways to augment the stock setup and came up with the idea of a Utility Belt which I would attach to my bait tank.

Utility belts are cool. Batman had one. So did Tim the Toolman Taylor, (and Heidi). The idea was to find a way to strap some small items to the bait tank making them easily accessible and not all jumbled up with the other stuff that I store in the center hatch.

I started with a piece of shoulder strap webbing from one of the many pieces of luggage or trade show giveaways that I have collected over the years. I chose one with all plastic components. I purchased some snap buckles and assembled the belt attaching one end permanently to the handle of my Hobie tank and clipping the other to a ring attached to the other end of the tank.

There are dozens of ways to do this. Another option would be to attach some pad eyes and clip to those. Use your imagination. Once you have figured out a way to attach the belt to the tank, the next step is putting your gear on the belt. For this demonstration I have attached a holster for my needle nose plyers, a fillet knife and an ABS tube that will eventually hold the net for my bait tank.

When I get around to making the belt for the other side of the tank, I might attach a water bottle holder, another tube to hold my gaff, first aid kit, bilge pump or one of the other important pieces of gear that we would like to have in an easy accessible location.

Here is the basic belt setup.

2880


Here is where the belt attaches to the tank at the handle.

2883


This is the installed belt before I add some of my other gear.

2881

This photo shows the belt installed after I have installed my rod holder assembly. (Revo owners, if you have not checked out this rod holder device, you should. It is displayed earlier in this post.)

2882

This is still a work in progress but I think it may make my days on the water a little better.

Bob

[jorluivil]

OK...lets see if I finally figured out the whole text between pics thing

Here are my innovations...some you might recognize.

FF mounted onto a Pelican 1120 waterproof case. The power cord runs from the FF through the FF mount and into the case. The transducer cord runs from the FF into the hull of the yak via a clam style waterproof seal.



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5032.jpg?t=1284691010

I decided to do without the wet mount for the transducer and opted to mount it in one of the scupper holes. The transducer cord runs from the FF into the hull and back out right near the scupper hole.


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5033.jpg?t=1284691010


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5034.jpg?t=1284691010


One of the problems I encountered was that because the top of the transducer sat flush with the bottom of the yak it did not allow water to drain out the scupper hole. I decided to take some 1-1/2" pvc and cut a piece about 1/4" long. I took a rats tails file and make a few notches to allow water to drain between the yak and the top of the transducer....works great!!!


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5029.jpg?t=1284691010

During some of my trips I would have issues closing the hatch that sits right in from of the seat. I'm 5'10" and weigh about 230, I was causing a slight bend on the edge of the hatch and this would prevent me from getting the hatch installed. I decided to take some 1" x 1" angle iron and mounted it both to the yak and the hatch, this helped keep them somewhat straight and prevent most if not all of the bend. I secured the angle iron to the hatch with some aluminum rivets and used the existing nuts and bolts to mount it onto the rim of the hatch.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5040.jpg?t=1284691010


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5041.jpg?t=1284691010


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5043.jpg?t=1284691010

When I sold my boat I ended up with two gaffs so I decided to take one and cut it down. Not wanting to lose grip of it when and if I ever gaff a large fish I took an old belt and strapped it down using some large zip ties. For comfort reasons I wrapped the belt in a manner that would allow it to stay flush as it wrapped around my hand. Fits better than OJ's glove...much better!



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5037.jpg?t=1284691010


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5038.jpg?t=1284691010



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/th_Picture5039.jpg?t=1284691010

I've got a few more to post but I have to get to work soon so I'll post them tomorrow. Let me know what you think!!!



THANKS to BTFDAVID and GREG ANDREW!!!

[roadx]

i made a davit out of 1 1/2" EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing)
to make hoop net pulling easier. the tubing fits the molded fishing pole holder on the outback nicely. i have not tested this yet and not sure if the leverage and weight from the net will make me tip or not??? will see

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad353/xroadx/davit2.jpg?t=1284748635

[eDUBz]

I do autobody and paint and use these stand's to work on part's or paint with and use them for my OK Malibu two xl and work perfect it adjust with the chain's and fold's right and light weight just thought i'd share since it can be very useful.
http://www.tooltopia.com/astro-pneumatic-557003.aspx

[Jzo]

I do autobody and paint and use these stand's to work on part's or paint with and use them for my OK Malibu two xl and work perfect it adjust with the chain's and fold's right and light weight just thought i'd share since it can be very useful.
http://www.tooltopia.com/astro-pneumatic-557003.aspx

Wow, nice!

[Stan K G]

For wet mounting using the black pipe section and rubber cap;

I had to install it in a fairly curved and asymetrical part of my yak, and I neither have the tools nor patience to file the pipe down properly, so I used marine putty.

Took the whole tube to make this...make sure to rough up the pipe very nicely, and to put on more than you need. Set it and put as much pressure as you can on it, let it cure. It will -NOT- hold to the yak plastic so after it cures pop it off and use marine poly glue to get it secure...use glue inside, outside and at the putty/pipe line so it holds and nothing leaks. (if you have it, silicone the threads to further reduce leak)

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b259/Gonodil/88d1fa98.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b259/Gonodil/46539f65.jpg


I also used some marine goop and a 2" section of PVC to mount my submerge type transducer under the rubber cap, forgot to take a pic.

[Stan K G]

Also

I use some teflon dry lubricant on the plastic threading on yak hatch covers, and the plastic hand pump....it made a HUGE difference in the pump. Smooth as silk now, takes no effort to empty out my in-yak livewell

[jorluivil]

I had this LED saved to install on my boat, boats gone so time to install it on the Ole Kayaki. Being that it was going to face me I decided to install it mostly downward, it's tuff to stare at after a minute or two. The labor hours have actually turned into days.......and still not done

[Fiskadoro]

i made a davit out of 1 1/2" EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing)to make hoop net pulling easier.... i have not tested this yet and not sure if the leverage and weight from the net will make me tip or not???.

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad353/xroadx/davit2.jpg?t=1284748635

I think you may have some trouble with that setup.


I built and use a boom on my FND..
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1190/bowr.jpg

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7255/riggedt.jpg

There's a couple of things I'd suggest.

You don't want the boom leaning out over the water but instead even with the edge of your kayak. If it's out too far it will actually try to pull you over, and you could easily roll your yak with the setup you have shown.

The deal with the boom is that you can use your weight to your advantage and pull down rather then lift up. Which means you can put more torque on it and move the net faster through the water. The closer to your body the pulley or block is the more advantage you have. Also you want the net as close to straight under you as possible, so it does not pull you around. The boom should be fixed so it can't move around or turn, and as you want that block right where it gives you the most advantage.

Like I said mines right even with the edge of my kayak. That keeps the rope from rubbing too hard on the side of the yak but gives me maximum toque or pull speed. I find when pulling with my boom there is a point where my lanyard float clears the side of the yak, and then I pull the last pull with my right hand down while guiding the net upward around the side of the yak with my left hand. It sounds complicated but it's not.

Another issue is that you want the boom high enough that when your lanyard float hits the block the net is completely out of the water, other wise bugs can flip up and out of the net while your trying to get the rope off the block.

On the same theme you want an open block or pulley so it's easy to get the line off and on. I made mine fixed so it will not turn or twist with a extra wide opening.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/4552/boomj.jpg


It's also nice to have some kind of light on it.


http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2087/red111.jpg

I would be very concerned that your setup might pull the kayak over or worse break out the rod holder. I tried two setups that failed before I built the base for mine.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2237/deboom.jpg

You'll be amazed how much torque a boom like that puts on your yak or on a holder.

Jim

[roadx]

THANKS Jim the EMT boom is scrapped. i need to get some hoop time on the kayak and steal your design :eek::D.

nice work by the way!!!

[fongman]

I wanted to increase the dry storage under the center hatch, so I installed a raised floorboard in my Hobie. It extends from the center support to the seat scupper posts. The tray holders mounted on the sides of the hull keep the floorboard from moving laterally.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0112.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0113.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0115.jpg
It is made out of 1/16" polycarbonate and is very light, yet strong. I covered it with a non-slip, rubber drawer liner. The red circle is where I put an emergency knockout, in case it is necessary to pump water out of the hull. A spade drill bit was used to create the knockout. It was then cemented to another piece of polycarbonate and reattached to the floorboard from the bottom side. A dab of goop on each corner holds the plug in place.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0106.jpg
To provide support, I split a 3" section of pool noodle lengthwise and gooped the 2 pieces down the centerline of the hull, at each end of the floorboard. This provides support and allows residual water to flow through.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0110.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/IMGP0111.jpg

[dsafety]

Fongman, I like the way you think. This is a good idea but it does not fully solve the lack of dry storage problems in Hobies. Raising the platform off the hull is a good first step. The second thing that you have to do is to install barriers on the front and back to keep stuff from sliding out of reach.

I built a similar, (although less elegant) tray for my Revo. I used the lid from a plastic storage container. This lid is approximately 25" x 17" with a 1" lip on the outside edges. To get it to fit through the hatch, I cut it in half. Before shoving the pieces into the kayak, I drilled a few holes on the cut edges. Once the plastic was in place, I ran some zip ties through the holes to reassemble the lid. To finish off, I created a "bulkhead" fore and aft using noodles in hopes that I would be able to keep my gear from sliding out of reach.

My solution is not perfect. The lid slides around a bit and stuff still sometimes slides past the noodle bulkheads. Using your idea of attaching noodle spacers to the bottom of my tray may help keep the thing from sliding around. I know that there is a way to create a better bulkhead which will prevent gear from escaping. I will be thinking about this.

I like your idea. Raising the edges somehow would make it even better. You might also consider drilling some drain holes right under the hatch area since we all know that Hobie hatches sometimes let in a little water when they are opened.

Bob

[467echo]

Just my 2 cents, and it actually costs 2 cents. A good way to keep your FF clean and dry the whole time on the water and for those surfy days. The good thing is you can actually use the buttons and read it still with the ziplock on it.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa90/467echo/Fishing/DSC02479.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa90/467echo/Fishing/DSC02480.jpg

[Jzo]

Just my 2 cents, and it actually costs 2 cents. A good way to keep your FF clean and dry the whole time on the water and for those surfy days. The good thing is you can actually use the buttons and read it still with the ziplock on it.

Cool, thx.

[Fiskadoro]

THANKS Jim the EMT boom is scrapped. i need to get some hoop time on the kayak and steal your design :eek::D.

nice work by the way!!!

Hey cool... Hate to see you scrap it. Just trying to help you with what I learned from my mistakes.

Like I said I had to do mine three times before it worked, hoop a while and you'll work out what you need..

Good luck!!!

Jim

[roadx]

i appreciate it Jim
the EMT was literally scrap. so no loss there. i modified the pulley block so the rope can be slipped over the pulley without threading it through, similar to yours. the block can be reused when i redesign something similar to the Jim Day hoop net davit. but im sure it will not be as nice as yours.


Hey cool... Hate to see you scrap it. Just trying to help you with what I learned from my mistakes.

Like I said I had to do mine three times before it worked, hoop a while and you'll work out what you need..

Good luck!!!

Jim

[fongman]

.... The second thing that you have to do is to install barriers on the front and back to keep stuff from sliding out of reach.
I decided to go without a lip on the edge since I don't plan on putting any small stuff on it. The non-slip surface will also keep things in place in all but the snottiest conditions.

.... I know that there is a way to create a better bulkhead which will prevent gear from escaping.
I thought about zig-zagging some light shock cord to hold things in place if things move too much.

.... You might also consider drilling some drain holes right under the hatch area since we all know that Hobie hatches sometimes let in a little water when they are opened.
The polycarbonate I used is only a 1/16" thick, so I don't want to weaken it with holes. I have a sponge to soak up any water.

[scoop]

Recently got myself an ocean worthy kayak (hobie), which means it 2x as heavy as my OK frenzy, and a pig to put on the roof of my car. After googling for a while, I decided to go for a home brew version of the Thule Outrigger, which seemed a little pricey.

Trip to my local Marshalls Hardware in San Diego yielded some appropriate steel.
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss344/catchandrelease/kayak/load_bar/81056652.jpg

Sanded and sprayed with some enamel paint.
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss344/catchandrelease/kayak/load_bar/76e2b0b5.jpg

Fits almost perfectly into the Thule load bar
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss344/catchandrelease/kayak/load_bar/e1ce58c0.jpg

Covered with a pool noodle, duct tape, and a tennis ball to prevent brain injury
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss344/catchandrelease/kayak/load_bar/c713e30c.jpg

Its now manageable to load my kayak alone. Lift nose onto bar, then lift stern onto rack. I actually made a second, so once its on hull down, its easy to flip it upside down without leaning over the car. Reverse the process for unloading obviously.

I pull them out and put them in the car once loaded/unloaded.

Cost was about $10 per.

[tagyak]

i wanted to share with you guys my kayak rack. it may be over the top for some, but for others i hope that you enjoy it.
i used some steel galvanized fence post and some aluminum tubing, which my neighbor was tossing out when he was cleaning out his garage, with brackets to assemble this. it has wheels so that i can move it around in my garage when i need to get behind it, or to wheel it out to load up in my car. wheels really do come in handy.
i also attached some hulley rollers from yakima to the cross bar so that i can easily roll up the kayak onto it. i found the rollers on craigslist for $50.
underneath i covered the bars with hot water insulation from home depot so that i could place my poles onto it. i think it is better than stashing them into a corner in the garage.
hope that you guys like the pictures.

[wiseguy]

Very Nice! I want one!:)

[Jzo]

i wanted to share with you guys my kayak rack...
Nicely done, thx for sharing. :cheers1:

[Jimmyz123]

The wellnuts/screws on a Hobie Adventure can easily be used as mounting points. I used the ones near the front hatch to fasten a polycarbonate shelf for my fishfinder base. When I changed from a Humminbird to Garmin, no big deal; I just drilled new holes. Polycarbonate is very strong and will not crack like acrylic.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/Adventure-MountingShelf.jpg

I made aluminum mounting plates for the ones behind the seat. These are used to support the pvc rodholder I made. The plate provides front-to-back stability while the V construction provides side-to-side stability. Other features that I like of this rodholders design is that they are angled at about 45 degrees, they have a low center of gravity, the mass is kept close to the centerline of the kayak, and the rods are within easy reach.

In addition, they point slightly forward or back, depending upon which direction they are mounted. When pointed forward, the tips of the rods can be seen without much effort.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/Adventure-Rodholders-FWD.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/fongman55/Kayaks%20and%20Accessories/th_Adventure-Rodholders-BCK.jpg

I also built some extension tubes for the builtin rodholders. I use these for my bass rods. Electrician tape wrapped over one layer of corktape on 1 1/4" pvc creates a snug fit. Instead of using lanyards to secure the rods, the bungies are looped over the reel handles.

I know exactly what I am going to do on my Yak now instead of installing the Ram Mount Rod holders. I'll post up photos of my creation when I am done.

[Jimmyz123]

Using something I saw Fongman do I made this Milk Crate
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/MilkCrate.jpg (http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/MilkCrate.jpg)

Then when you buy a Kayak from Jim Sammons you get some of his great creations that come with it.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/FFinder.jpg

Mounting the Transducer with a make shift bracket. I noticed in the photo it was a little off center so I corrected that after the photo was taken. I'm just about ready to take her out for the first time.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/IMG_0323.jpg

I love this stuff.

[Jzo]

Using something I saw Fongman do I made this Milk Crate
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/MilkCrate.jpg (http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/MilkCrate.jpg)



Great work!

[dsafety]

Jimmy, that rig looks great. Where will you put your bait tank, in the crate? One thing that Fongman did which you might consider is to somehow move the trolling "V' forward a bit. If you have it too far back, you will have a tough time watching the rod tips, not to mention getting your hand on the rod quick enough to deal with a soft bite.

It looks like you could move the V about six inches forward by building a mounting bracket that attaches to the crate so it positions the rod holders right behind your seat.

An even better way to handle things would be to create a rig that moves the rod holders to where they are about even with your shoulders. I have experimented with this and found that there is a sweet spot for the rod holder location that makes it easy to watch the rods without getting in the way of paddling.

You can't to this with a "V" setup but using ABS or PVC pipe, you can create individual rod holders that mount to the crate, extend forward to the appropriate place. At the forward end they will need to be secured to the yakl with straps to make sure everything stays where it is supposed to.

If you are like me, you will find that tweaking your setup until it works perfectly for the way you like to do things is almost as much fun as going fishing. It gets even better when your idea works perfectly and helps you catch a trophy fish.

Bob

[Jimmyz123]

Jimmy, that rig looks great. Where will you put your bait tank, in the crate? One thing that Fongman did which you might consider is to somehow move the trolling "V' forward a bit. If you have it too far back, you will have a tough time watching the rod tips, not to mention getting your hand on the rod quick enough to deal with a soft bite.

It looks like you could move the V about six inches forward by building a mounting bracket that attaches to the crate so it positions the rod holders right behind your seat.

An even better way to handle things would be to create a rig that moves the rod holders to where they are about even with your shoulders. I have experimented with this and found that there is a sweet spot for the rod holder location that makes it easy to watch the rods without getting in the way of paddling.

You can't to this with a "V" setup but using ABS or PVC pipe, you can create individual rod holders that mount to the crate, extend forward to the appropriate place. At the forward end they will need to be secured to the yakl with straps to make sure everything stays where it is supposed to.

If you are like me, you will find that tweaking your setup until it works perfectly for the way you like to do things is almost as much fun as going fishing. It gets even better when your idea works perfectly and helps you catch a trophy fish.

Bob

Thanks Bob for the advice. At present that rod holders in the crate are setup so that the bait tank(5 gallon bucket) will fit dead in the middle of them. I'm still gathering the parts for the bait tank.

As for the V rod holder that's a temporary setup until I can install some of the New Scotty Rocket Launcher Rod Holders. Jim Sammons showed me some that he has and they are very nice. First I have to find a place that carries them. If not those I'll get the Ram mount rocket launchers.

Believe me, I will be tweaking thing often to find what does work perfectly for me. One thing I am still thinking about is the Fishfinder, I may remove that from the cutting board plate that was made and attach the base directly to the Kayak and a little lower.

I am truly loving this whole kayak fishing and rigging thing.

[jorluivil]

So I've seen these glow sticks at Home Depot for a few months now and finally decided to buy some and see if I could modify them for hooping.

First reason to buy these is because they come with free battery replacements for life, just pay shipping and handling....I know, I know that's not exactly free but it only cost $15 to replace the batteries on 6 glow sticks. Lifegear also sends you a prepaid envelope to return the old batteries for proper disposal. Not sure how many of you know this but it is illegal to throw batteries in the trash. The last time I bought batteries for my Promar sticks I bought them at Walmart, they sell a similar set of batteries for $5.00+tax, $6 X 6 packs= $36........50% savings by going with the Lifegear brand.

Second reason to buy these is because they come with three way lighting. Orange solid, orange flashing, and a flashlight at the tip, this part of the light can be reversed and used as a solid white white on the glow stick.

First thing I did was cut off the whistle that sits at the bottom of the glow stick, you can leave it on but it just makes the glow stick that much longer and gets in the way. Once you cutoff the whistle you can attach it to your PFD, hopefully you'll never need it but it's good to have one.

Next thing was to Goop three areas of the glow stick, you want to Goop the part that has the flashlight, the on/off button and the area where the two pieces come together. Because Goop is slightly flexible once it dries it still allows you to use the on/off button after the Goop dries.

About the only downfall to these is that they have a one hour timer on them, I looked at the circuit board to see if I could bypass the time but I couldn't figure out which part of it was the timer. I figured this out the hard way, three of the glow sticks turned off minutes apart from each other while I was hopping. The way to avoid this is to simply turn them off and on each time you pull your net(s). However, because they do have a timer you'll never have to worry about them turning on after you put them away, this happens to my Promar sticks a lot, the copper contact touches the battery and.......you know the rest.

Promar makes a god product but if you can get something for less and make it work by making slight modifications why not? You can get three of these for just under $8, that's under $3 each compared to a price of $6 for each for the Promars.

[bus kid]

while I was out fishing on black Friday I locked my cart up to the lifeguard tower and at the end of the day when I got out some asshole came along and busted off one wheel.So i went to HF and got new wheels. Here's what I did.

old wheel removed from cart3353

old axle removed from old wheel3354

old axle in new wheel 3355

fits perfect3356

repeat for the other side 3357

While at Hf I picked up a box of snap clips 12 pcs for $5
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-snap-clip-fastener-set-67563.html
used the snap clips to leash everything down and the box became a tackle box
3358
fits perfect in the side pocket3359

I also drilled a hole in a rib inside the hatch and tied the hatch to the inside of the yak added a loop and a snap clip to keep my dry bag close inside.3360

very productive day for me.

[Rockin1904]

OK.....Mr. and Mrs. Sea Bass the time is almost upon us so I will share a little.

These are (2) of the finest improvised Kayak Fishing tools I have used.
The first is a New Silent Kelp Clip for those WSB missions that take you into the spaghetti. This clip takes up No room at all, nor does it make any metallic sound.

Its very easy to use, Just grab 2 or 3 single strands of kelp and Cuff it. Tie the other end to your kayak.
It will not slip do to wind or current, and you do not have to pile 25 lbs. of salad on your Kayak to anchor.
-A joint venture between Me and Elbie.
-----------------------
Item #2 is a De- Hooking Tool for your Sabiki Rig.
Hold it by the Cork End and use the hook end to grab the line in front of your hooked Mackerel. Just lift and it will invert the hook letting the Mackerel fall off.
Never again will you have to deal with pliers, or your bare hand around those nasty hooks. This thing work like magic.
Yes, it floats.

-I first started using a piece of coat hanger, and making 2 tight loops and a short shaft with the hooked end. I would wear it on my finger like a ring.
I gave away a bunch of them at the launch every time somebody would ask..What the hell is that ? ..I gave them one.:)
-This type you see here is the 2nd generation version that has been improved upon by Rick Robinson. Its a Brass Rod (no rust) and a Champagne Cork. He now operates a factory in China and sells them by the gross.:p:p:p

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9cc30b3127ccef8820f30d7b900000030O00AbMmzFizcN2 IPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/
This de hooker with some minor tweaks works like a charm!!

[senojmj]

While waiting for the snow to melt, I try to pass the time by reading this forum and especially this thread. I posted a while back that I bought a used trailer and used it last summer. It was great other than I could only carry 2 kayaks and a cargo box. Here is a pic of my original setup. It was a rack setup on the bunks of the trailer.
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/attachment.php?attachmentid=2871&stc=1&d=1283966878
I wanted to be able to put bikes and camping gear in addition to the 2 kayaks. I also wanted to be able convert it to a utility trailer if I wanted to go to home depot and pick up some wood. I decided I would need a second level to the trailer to hold all that. I removed the bunks and added floor to the frame of the trailer. I looked into some kayak racks that are designed for small boat trailers. They ran about $250 to $400. More than I wanted to spend. I found a ladder rack to be the solution. I bought one for $60 on ebay. It took me a few hours to figure out the best way to install this onto my trailer. This is the end result. I put the kayaks on today to make sure it all fits. I added some iron piping to the bottom for my racks to hook onto.
3596

3597

3598
Room for the bikes in the middle of the top rack


3600

3601
I bolted the ladder rack to the frame of the trailer.
I think it turned out pretty good and can't wait try it out this summer. When it is all said and done, I spent about $330 for this set up. As always if you have any other ideas please share them!
Jeff

[roby]

This isn't really an innovation, but I thought it might help someone. I know the wet mount has been around....

I first mounted my transducer attached to the sail mast of my Hobie Revolution. I zip tied it to the mast and then just added water. It worked, but I didn't like the water in the yak...

I decided to contain the water in some foam.


I bought a foam roller for 10 bucks or so at walmart. After I cut the piece I needed, I jammed it in to the hull of the kayak for extra floatation. Or you can cut and sell more pieces to your non-Hobie friends for $10 a piece. You also can frame the pic of the hot chick on your garage wall.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P1230003.jpg

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P1230009.jpg


Cut the transducer section smaller than the actual transducer so the fit is snug.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P1230011.jpg


Take time to shape the foam to match the kayak hull.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P1260002.jpg


I gooped the foam and just added water. The transducer fits in snug and will not come out even if I flip the kayak and shake it, "like a Polaroid camera." I add a water saturated sponge on top just in case the ducer wants to move, but I also use the sponge when I'm done to take out any water from inside the foam.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P2060017.jpg


I have taken it out several times and it works just fine. The water doesn't come out either when I load and unload the yak. If I was to do it over again I would cut the foam at 3 inches or so. I know this wetmount topic is overdone, but just wanted to add.

[roby]

Just add-ons for the yak...nothing earth shattering...

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P2060015.jpg


I can now use the screw-in pad eye to leash two items.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P2060016.jpg


I use a mesh bag to keep my tackle in when I have the bait tank on the kayak. Fastlane put foam in my yak and it made a barrier around the inside of the hull just above the 8 inch hatch. The mesh bag stays put when I'm on the yak; it doesn't slide around.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P2060022.jpg

[dsafety]

OK class, raise your hands if this has ever happened to you. After a long day of peddling your yak back and forth in a fruitless search, you decide to call it a day and treat yourself to an ice cold beer in celebration of some beautiful time on the water. You pop the cap and set the bottle in the little hull indentation that Hobie calls a cup holder. It's time to head in but always hopeful, you pin one last greenie on and point your bow toward the launch.

All of a sudden it happens. You hook up. Fish on! The kayak rocks back and forth as your fish puts up an epic fight. Eventually, you win the battle. You land the fish, strap it down and smile. It has been a satisfying day. Time to get back to that beer.

You look toward the empty cup holder and then, sadly, spot your empty bottle rolling around the bottom of the kayak. Bummer.

I see hands in the air from just about every Hobie driver. Oh look, there are even a few of the paddle guys with their hands up. Well, I have good news. It does not have to be this way.

For about $1.50 and a couple minutes work, you can turn that useless dent in your hull into a functional cup holder. All you need is a 3" PVC pipe connector and a piece of Velcro.

Clean the pipe connector and the place on your yak where you want to attach the Velcro with some alcohol . Mate the pieces of Velcro together and attach one side to the pipe connector. Peel the tape off the other side of the Velcro and carefully press it in place at the desired location and you are done.

3696


3697

Sometimes the best ideas are really simple ones.


Bob

[Nic D]

Sometimes the best ideas are really simple ones.
Bob

great idea... or just buy a bigger beer:cheers1:

[StinkyMatt]

Solution 1: Drink your beer faster.:D

Solution 2: Learn how to hold your rod and reel in a 40lb YT at the same time, with ONE hand!:D

[jorluivil]

I had trouble reaching the unit the old way and usually didn't need to but now that I have a GPS I'll need to be able to get the the buttons more often to mark waypoints. The RAM moved the entire unit roughly 8" - 9", should also make it easier on my back.


OLD FART

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll35/jorluivil/kayak/Picture5032.jpg?t=1299470225



NEW FART

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll35/jorluivil/kayak/2011-03-06193942.jpg?t=1299470225

[Kailolo]

H-Bird's Answer to What Type of Grease for Transducer Grease Mount
<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff; COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->In additon to Humminbird's video for installation of their Kayk Kir using a grease mount you can go to http://www.yakhawaii.com/index.php?o...ging&Itemid=62 (http://www.yakhawaii.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=93:fish-finder-transducer-a-battery-mounting&catid=63:kayak-rigging&Itemid=62) for another video.

But for DIY, according to that link, H-bird support stated that "marine grease" or "axle grease" could be used. Has to resist heat (and preferably is not stinky!). The viscosity of the grease will help hold the transducer in place as will a very snug foam cutout if you DIY.

I plan to make my own foam holder with a grease mount as soon as I recieve my new H-bird FF.

Maybe someone can post a "brand" of grease that has worked well.

I was told by H-bird that the only difference between a transom mount transducer (which is often stock with a FF package) and an in-hull mount transducer when mounted in-hull is that the transom mount tranducer may not read temperatures well. Maybe that is because of the location of the temp sensor inside the puck is different than inside the transom mount transducer?

[Kaijuu]

I decided to engineer a new box for my outback for the rear 8" hatch since it doesn't get used for anything else. I was using the dry bag method up to now.

All that's needed is a CNC router, Hand held router, table saw, 1/2" and 1/4" ABS plastic, ABS glue and some basic dimensions.

Directions;

For the rounded part; Program the router using master cam, load drawing into CNC machine operating software. Adhere the 1/2" sheet of ABS to the router. Push the go button. Wait a couple minutes, remove plastic from router.

(The round hole in the top serves two purposes; one is to route the power cable, the other is a finger hole to lift it out.)

Cut squared pieces to proper dimensions using the table saw.

Glue it all together with ABS glue. Let sit for 24 hours to cure.

Use the hand router to round off the top edge of the box.

The box should fit any Hobie with 8" round hatches.

The battery I use is a 12 volt, 14AH. Slightly larger than typical but I can run my FF/GPS for about 3 days without a charge if necessary.

If you use a typical battery with the box I made, you can put your keys and wallet in it too.

[bus kid]

Hay Kaijuu (http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/member.php?u=3833), being that not everyone here has MC and a CNC or those that do only cut metal, would you consider selling a box or two?

[Kaijuu]

I suppose anything is possible. You should probably check it out first.

Variations are also manageable in most any material. For the Yak, plastic rules; It doesn't oxidize. Any other ideas that need a build, let me know. I live in Vista but go to Oceanside most days unless rain. I can bring it with me.

P.S. We can also design and build your CNC router, then you wont need me to build a box.

P.S.S. this box can be made using hand tools. A table saw, router, jig saw and a drill.

[bus kid]

I have access to all the necessary tooling and machines, but our least expensive CNC runs at $11.00 per minute, yes I typed PER MINUTE. the boss might go ape ca-ca :eek: if I tossed a G job on the floor.
Pm me what you have to offer as far as a router. I have been looking at the Taig Micro mill for some time now but just cant pull the trigger.

[tagyak]

Hay Kaijuu (http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/member.php?u=3833), being that not everyone here has MC and a CNC or those that do only cut metal, would you consider selling a box or two?

i was just about to ask where i can get one???

[Kaijuu]

Its best just to PM me. Keith

[wiredantz]

Well after i got tired of seeing all my junk all over the garage, i sat down and doodle some possible way i can store my kayak in the garage. I only could mount the kayak straight on from a perpendicular point since i have one side of the garage for my kayaks to fit. I decided to make a wood frame and use PVC as my rack holders. The first bottom portion is to store all the other junk you have in your garage the second layers is for your fishing bag, batteries then comes the PVC. The top PVC come loose to remove the bottom kayak.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/IMGP0082.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/IMGP0079.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/IMGP0078.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/IMGP0076.jpg

[Jimmyz123]

Well after i got tired of seeing all my junk all over the garage, i sat down and doodle some possible way i can store my kayak in the garage. I only could mount the kayak straight on from a perpendicular point since i have one side of the garage for my kayaks to fit. I decided to make a wood frame and use PVC as my rack holders. The first bottom portion is to store all the other junk you have in your garage the second layers is for your fishing bag, batteries then comes the PVC. The top PVC come loose to remove the bottom kayak.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/IMGP0082.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/IMGP0079.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/IMGP0078.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/IMGP0076.jpg

I may have to do something like this in my garage. Thanks for sharing.

[Kaijuu]

I've been playing around with the idea of the original battery box. I have since made someone a larger box for his Revos' rear hatch to store both his FF and Live well batteries.

Today I decided to work the large box into a storage/tackle box to fit the middle hatch of my Outback. It's close to 7" deep with a tray that slips inside and sits at the top. The tray slips in and out easily. Figured I would put small terminal tackle in the tray and the larger stuff inside the larger compartment at the lower end. Still working things out. I guess now I'll have to do the Sea trials.

One thing I'm unsure of is if the ABS is going to react with my plastic swim-baits. I remember the old plastic worms would melt some of the plastics used in tackle boxes and trays.

[Fiskadoro]

I originally posted this in back in 2006 on another board, but I was going through some archives, and found it again so I thought I'd re-post it here.

So....Here it is...my kayak hoopnet....

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3014/bug8xa6.jpg

The nets one of my designs: essentually a redesign of this net I made in 2005 using the same netting:

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/306/lite112ea.jpg

It was a "working" prototype that I'd been playing with for while, but I had some issues with it. The first net had too big of an opening which produced too much drag in the water.

Th newer one has the same size opening as a Danielson cone but the top ring is an inch and a half higher, and the base is only 28 inches across vrs 34 inches on the Danielson net and 36 inches on the Promar net.

Since the base is smaller it has a lot less drag coming up through the water. It pulls easier and faster then either the Promar or the Danielson net.

Like the Promar cone, my net folds down for flat storage.
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/3845/net1lh1.jpg

I don't know how theirs work as I never owned one but my design has three pieces of pivoting 1/2 inch tubing that that turn on the 1/4 inch stainless hoop ring. The bridle is made from three lengths of 250 pound Mono leader. It runs down through the tube legs and it's tied to the Bottom 3/8 hoop.

Basically to get the hoop to stand up and pull into shape you just have to pull up on the bridle.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9312/net2cg9.jpg

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/7973/net3bu6.jpg

Once it's up you just have to make sure the knots go up into the legs and it's ready to use.

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/747/net4op7.jpg

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/1368/net5ya8.jpg

I've pretty much got this one worked out.

It's a great net. It sinks like a stone, pulls easy as Promars original smaller flat nets, and catches more bugs then they do.

From playing around I've pretty much figured out that the crucial distance in a cone net is not the diameter but the entrance or top rings distance and height ratio to the bug.

Most bugs are lost one of two ways in a basket style net.

Either the bug flips over the ring before it gets high enough to block his initial jump or climbs out on the way up.

So the advantage of larger Basket style net compared to a smaller one is the ring edge is simply further from the bug at the start of the pull.

Conical nets do not have the same constraints

With a conical net the top ring is already above the bug: the idea being it is it's high enough to make it hard for the bug to intially flip out.

It's all about exit angle.

When the exit angle is too steep for the bug to make on his first flip he undershoots the exit and ends up stuck backwards against the net wall or downward facing side. If he keeps flipping he just drives himself deeper into the net.


The crucial distance is then not base diameter on a conical net but the entrance ring distance and height ratio to the bug.

I can't figure out why the net manufacturer's have not figured that out but even the new Promars are much larger at the base which makes them harder to pull.


Here's the old style cone geometry compared to my new net:

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5919/1qb5.jpg

The larger the top ring diameter or the lower the ring, the better the angle is for swimming out. So the trick is to have a relatively small opening high enough above the bugs head that he can't make the angle when he tries to kick out.

I've not used the Promars cones at all but I have a few Danielson conical nets.

The D cones are made like traps. I think the guys who designed them thought that lobsters would climb in, feed, then not be able to find their way out. I don't believe that at all..... . Crabs...maybe.... but not lobsters.

I've watched bugs feed in my Danielson nets with my IR Infrared camera and once they feed they get out fast.

The Danielson nets work great but my three gripes are.....

One: I think the top ring is too low and that bigger bugs sit on top and feed without getting in the net . Two: they hard to pull because they are too big and too heavy. Three they take up a lot of room in a boat and are impossible to carry on a kayak.

The plus side you don't have to pull them that fast because once you have a bug in them it's very hard for them to get out.

I have not used the larger Promars but I can tell just by looking they are an improvement in two ways. One the top ring is too high for bugs to perch on and feed and two: they fold for storage.

Still they are huge, heavy and I bet they are a biiiiittttch to pull. :D

One thing for certain: Now that Promars come out with a two cone nets and the DFG has OKd them there is no doubt that cone nets are here to stay. http://www.allcoast.com/discussion/images/wink.gif

Cones are ideal for kayak because it's hard to pull as fast when your sitting down. Unfortunately the current ones commercially available are probably a little harder to pull then they need to be.

Here's one more pic a standard D cone on top of my cone.

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8652/net6kw3.jpg

You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out why mine pulls easier, and with it's higher ring it should catch more and larger bugs.


I have no plans to market these nets right now but they could be marketed. I think it's pretty much the ideal net for Kayaking.

Seems to work so far for me:

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/9858/bug6bh4.jpg

...and your welcome to make your own.

Tight lines, Jim

[driftwood]

Hey Jim,

The DFG is providing two operative definitions of a legal hoop net,
in order to accommodate the gear configurations that are currently in use
by the public. The definitions will include the traditional style hoop net that
lies flat on the ocean floor as well as the new style hoop net that has the
second smaller ring that is held above the ocean floor.

Is it legal to modify these two types of nets? I can't find any info were it
says you can or can't.

[Fiskadoro]

Hey Jim, The DFG is providing two operative definitions of a legal hoop net, in order to accommodate the gear configurations that are currently in use
by the public. The definitions will include the traditional style hoop net that
lies flat on the ocean floor as well as the new style hoop net that has the
second smaller ring that is held above the ocean floor. Is it legal to modify these two types of nets? I can't find any info were it says you can or can't.



Any time you do something like this you have to look at the regs.

I made my nets before they made the new regs, but I have been told that these nets of mine fall under the current guidelines for cone nets. I kinda lucked out because they are my favorites and my most successful design

I actually have several other designs that I imagine are now no longer legal, as they were flat nets with additional rings that pull up in the shape of cones.

It's my understanding that anyone can make thier own nets or modify nets, but any nets you actually put in the water must conform to the size and configuration guidelines put out by the DFG.

The only issue I could of had with these nets is the size and height of the top ring, since my top ring was the same size as a Danielson cone in diameter, and around the same the same height as the top ring of the Promar eclipse nets. my nets are within the legal dimensions the DFG created around both those production nets.

Bottom line though is you can make your own hoopnets.

Jim

[driftwood]

The new promar eclipse was approved by the DFG becase its spec's were
similar to the old traditional hoop.

Have you cheked with the DFG about modifcation/configuations/mechanisms of your new hoop net? Might be worth checking just to be sure.

http://www.promarnets.com/Media/Articles/8-27-10/P1-P14.pdf

[bubblehide]

Don't forget, that you don't want to violate the new soak limit!:eek: :doh:





Nice nets Jim!

[Fiskadoro]

The new promar eclipse was approved by the DFG becase its spec's were similar to the old traditional hoop. Have you cheked with the DFG about modifcation/configuations/mechanisms of your new hoop net? Might be worth checking just to be sure. http://www.promarnets.com/Media/Articles/8-27-10/P1-P14.pdf

Actually I appreciate your concern but it's unnecessary.

It's not a big deal but I think you have some basic misconceptions. First off the original hoopnets were all flat two ring nets made for the sail powered commercial crab fishery in San Francisco bay. They predate the use of traps back to the 1800s.

The Danielson cone nets are a more modern net designed for dungeness crab, but built for the rec crab fishery with a rigged structure more like a trap, then a traditional hoop.

When Guys started using them for lobster down here there was a big shakeup. Some in the DFG said they were illegal for lobster, some guys got tickets for using them, and the official word was that they essentually were traps. The deal was the regs did not have a clear definition of what a hoopnet was so legally there was a loophole and for a while it was pretty much anything goes.

The DFG siad they were going to remake the regs, and part of it would state that all hoopnets had to be flat nets. That they had to lie flat on the bottom, and be under 36 inches in diameter. Since it was obvious that cone nets did not lie flat they were going to be illegal for lobster, but still legal for crab. That said cones had some advantages, so some of us started playing with alternative flat nets, that had cone properties.

Here's one of mine from back then.
http://img863.imageshack.us/img863/8878/hoop.jpg

That extra expandable ring caused the net lay flat with the bait cage centered, but also when pulled changed the net to a cone shape. The idea being if nets just had to lie flat that net would be legal but it also functioned like a cone net. I used those nets for one season and they worked great, but had a lot of drag in the water. Though legal back when I made them, it's my understanding that they would now be illegal because it has too many rings according to the new regs.

Promar in anticipation of the Flat net reg held back on making conical nets and instead introduced the larger 36 inch flat nets to get a jump on Danielson, who was only making 32's. For a while 36 flat nets were the hot item, in anticipation of the reg change, but they are dogs to pull, and some of us switched to motorized pullers. (I made my own) Bottom line we were all trying to figure out how to legally maximize our catches, and wanted to know what the new regs would be so we could build nets to fit them in anticipation of their arrival.

The rub for Promar though was the DFG did not change the regs, but stalled out on it, and started talking about doing a study. That put Promar in a bind. Danielson was making a cone net, legally selling it, it was getting popular, the DFG quit writing citations, so Promar needed to compete, or they were going to loose some of their business.

Now I don't know what Promar officially says but after waiting for a few years for the DFG to act on the flat net regs Promar in my opinion just had enough and they made a even bigger cone net the eclipse net to essentually challenge the law.

Like Promar I had held back on making a cone net for years because I'd heard they were going to be illegal but when I heard about the Promar eclipse going into production I was like screw this I'm going to make my own cones as well.

At the time I just started kayak hooping, so I started playing around with a low drag kayak friendly cone hoop design. I had a friend in the DFG who warned me against doing it, because he said they still were considering a reg change, but I figured WTF I could use them for a season or two, and since the DFG would either have to outlaw cones altogether, or that they would have to permit both production cone nets to keep being made, that if I built my nets with net specs that lay right smack between the two production cones, I could maximize the chance that my nets would still be legal when and if the DFG finally did actually change the regs.

Of course if I was wrong I'd of just changed the nets, or scrapped them, I mean I have maybe six net designs around here, some in full sets, but the day the DFG came up with the new regs I got a call from someone closely involved in the process and they assured me that my nets were still going to be legal. So it worked, and you could say I have checked, or do have confirmation that my nets are legal.

Bottom line you can build your own nets as long as they fit the specifications spelled out by the DFG, and my nets fit those specs even though they are easier to pull from a kayak then the current D and PM designs.

Jim

[Lets_Fish]

While checking out some other yak forums, I came across this unique idea on loading and unloading on a Ute down under. It has a flip down rear rack with a roller. Check it out
http://yakass.net/forum/yakkity-yak/5867-kayak-management-mods

[roby]

I got this idea from yakass...I like switching the hatch to open on the side because it allows me to keep pedalling while looking for things in the hatch. I though it might be a safety mod as well. If the Hobie ever swamps, I could still pump the kayak while pedalling to safety. In the original way, you could never pedal the kayak with the hatch open....The switch is really easy to do and you could change it back if you don't like it...


Before the change...

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/P2270007.jpg

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/P2270008.jpg


The hatch lid hits the water bottle, so it does not fully open. Another negative is you have to move the mirage bungee every time you open and close the lid.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P3300007.jpg

http://i620.pho%3C/i%3Etobucket.com/albums/tt285/shh77/Fishing/P3300007.jpg

[steveoh]

Well, I couldn't make it out this weekend, so with the little time I had, I finally installed the fishfinder.

I took a Sterilite waterproof container from Target...cut the bottom off and shaped it to the contour of the bottom of kayak. Rough sand, cleaned, then sealed with goop. Then I cut a hole for the transducer wire through the lid and scored it so the big connector to the unit would fit through then gooped that. I also added 2 rubber spacers 1/4", so the transducer would be inline with the bottom of kayak. Let everything dry and filled it with h20....no leaks...even when I flipped it upside down.

http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/h2obase.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/h2obase2.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/transducer1.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/transducer3.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/transducer2.JPG

Then I took an extra rod tube and riveted 2 'L' brackets to mount the head unit bracket. I drilled/dremeled a hole big enough to fit the wire fitting through it and ran the wire from the unit through the tube.

http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/wiring1.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/wiring3.JPG


Buttoned everything down with zip ties (2) to the sail mount post. I added a quick connect to the battery

http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/unit4.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/complete.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/complete2.JPG
Here is a few shots of the final install.

Big thanks to everyone on this site for sharing their innovations...most of what I did was taken from earlier posts but with a few modifications of my own. I will re-post when I get a chance to take it for a trial run. Thanks Iceman for the supplies needed to get this done...If anyone needs 3" and 4" clear tubing, I have some in 6" lenghts....I was planning on using the clear tubing, but this transducer is huge and would not fit...

:luxhello::luxhello::luxhello:

Now if I can catch some....:wsb:

[Caffeind]

Makeshift rulers are not a new concept I'm sure but I found that the little dimples on Malibu hatches line up pretty good and can serve as a nice ballpark ruler. I painted some of the dots, 1 dot (11"), 2 dot (12"), etc. Nice for a quick OTW measure for a legal bass and beyond. My hatch is good up to 15 1/2".

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r23/ninjapizzaboy/161ecb40.jpg

Just bring a tape for the bigger ones :)
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r23/ninjapizzaboy/927315c2.jpg

[tagyak]

Well, I couldn't make it out this weekend, so with the little time I had, I finally installed the fishfinder.

I took a Sterilite waterproof container from Target...cut the bottom off and shaped it to the contour of the bottom of kayak. Rough sand, cleaned, then sealed with goop. Then I cut a hole for the transducer wire through the lid and scored it so the big connector to the unit would fit through then gooped that. I also added 2 rubber spacers 1/4", so the transducer would be inline with the bottom of kayak. Let everything dry and filled it with h20....no leaks...even when I flipped it upside down.

Big thanks to everyone on this site for sharing their innovations...most of what I did was taken from earlier posts but with a few modifications of my own. I will re-post when I get a chance to take it for a trial run. Thanks Iceman for the supplies needed to get this done...If anyone needs 3" and 4" clear tubing, I have some in 6" lenghts....I was planning on using the clear tubing, but this transducer is huge and would not fit...

:luxhello::luxhello::luxhello:

Now if I can catch some....:wsb:

nice job. but let us know how the placement works out for you on the transponder. usually it is placed in front of the peddles in the front hatch. i read somewhere that the turbulence from the peddles interrupts the transponder reading.
also what type of lowrance did you mount?

[steveoh]

nice job. but let us know how the placement works out for you on the transponder. usually it is placed in front of the peddles in the front hatch. i read somewhere that the turbulence from the peddles interrupts the transponder reading.
also what type of lowrance did you mount?


I got the Lowrance HDS 5 with nautic chart. I have my dad's outback setup with the transducer at the same location with a Hummingbird and have not had an issue with the turbulence. That one is mounted directly with goop to the hull. If the wet mount works well, I'm thinking about redoing the HB to a wet mount. If it doesn't work for my HDS, then all I have to do is get a bottom and glue one down towards the front and use the back one for dry storage. I tried to make this unit portable, so I can use it on different kayaks...all I need is the bottom and I can move the entire unit from yak to yak.

I'm hopefully going to be able to make it out this sunday, so I will post the results then.

[tagyak]

well i finally got tired with fiddling with my bait tank switch. i was in san diego this past weekend and got a chance to stop by west marine. i picked up a new switch a plasticized on/off toggle switch with a rubber boot. i picked this one since it had a rubber boot and hopefully it will keep the water from seeping into the wiring.

first i removed the old switch. simply turn the knob with adjustable pliers and it will unscrew and come off. do the same with the nut.
i had to make the hole bigger on the bait tank to accomodate the new toggle switch. i ended up using a 31/64 bit. then i adjusted the length of the wires and soldered the ends and also used heat shrink. i am not sure if it is marine grade heat shrink so i also used marine goop.
once the connections were soldered and the goop was dry i installed the toggle switch to the bait tank. after i had tightened it down, i also applied some goop to the outside of the toggle switch before i attached the rubber boot. i ended up placing the toggle switch "on" position facing down and toggle switch "off" facing up. i had noticed that when i had the old switch my elbow would knock into it and turn it off. i am hoping that with the switch "on" position facing down that i won't have this issue any more.

the last pictures shows my intake tube. i heard from others that they had experienced theirs getting clogged. i had placed some wire screen into mine. i used the ones from the 99 cent stores that you would buy to use in your bathroom sinks at home. just worked my fingers to push out and form a nice shape that would just fit into the intake. then used a stick to push it into the bottom of the intake. after each time coming back i rinse water thru the tube and also spray wd-40 onto the screen. it has helped from it rusting out so fast. hope that this makes sense to you guys. if you need more details let me know.

[dsafety]

Nice switch upgrade. I am not sure if it will last any longer than the stock Hobie switch but you have probably solved the problem of turning off the pump with an inadvertent elbow bump.

In my experience, the screens on the intake tube only help a little. Sometimes they make things worse if there is a lot of slime in the water that gets caked on the intake. I got rid of my screen and and installed a bit of flexible tubing to the output end of the pump inside the tank, (see an earlier post in this thread). When my pump gets clogged I insert a small piece of sprinkler riser into the tubing and blow some air into the system. Whatever is clogging the intake gets dislodged and the unit starts working again.

It works great.

Bob

[steveoh]

nice job. but let us know how the placement works out for you on the transponder. usually it is placed in front of the peddles in the front hatch. i read somewhere that the turbulence from the peddles interrupts the transponder reading.
also what type of lowrance did you mount?

Went out to LJ on sunday and the fish finder worked perfectly. I didn't have any issues with "turbulance" from the fins.

Got all my settings dialed in and metered some fish, but they didn't want to cooperate :mad:


Till next time...:sifone:

[medanum6298]

I have the same wet mount transducer bob has works fine
yours is cool to, I like translucent container you used for your project. Allows you to if the transducer is paralell with the bottom of the hull.
me too
:) :)



__________________
watch movies online for free (http://moviesonlinewatch.net)

[yuana]

Nice thread,http://freeimagestocks.com/content/69/grey.pnggood for the informations.

I love it :D

[superpoly76]

Just in case anyone out there rides one of these awesome fishing machines here ya go..

Basically its an extending arm mount for a fishfinder. It is completely watertight and mounted in the back of the sonar compartment on Ocean Kayaks. I found that ff screens are easier to read up close and that they dont like being flopped on by fish!

All the cables are mounted through the shaft of the extending portion.

The internal housing consist of a sealed, straight flush mount rod holder.
The tube rests on top of the battery bag.
The tube extends down at an angle but does not contact the hull or Fishing rods that may be stored inside it.
Easily tucks in with one hand while fighting fish with the other.



http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4098.0;attach=7283 ;image (http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4098.0;attach=4698 ;image)

[superpoly76]

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4098.0;attach=4721 ;image

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4098.0;attach=4720 ;image

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4098.0;attach=4719 ;image

Hope this helps...somebody?

[Flyfisher70]

This not really an innovation, it's cheap and keeps things real simple and functional.

All that's needed is black Sharpie marker and tape measure. Makes for easy fish measuring.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3194/5720953702_b504fd1467_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5720953702/)

I'm right handed so I just put the measurements on the right hand side. I might ad the measurements lines on the other side of the Xfactor as well.

[Flyfisher70]

These are just some things I've seen and read about on this site and others. Lots of cool innovations for sure. I wish I could have contributed some of my own ideas, but I'm just not one of the creative type. Anyhow I hope these photos can help others out as past images and instructions have helped me out.

Bait tank battery box mounted directly onto the crate with zip ties. I drilled out two holes for each zip tie on the inside of the box (a total of four zip ties were used), once the zip ties were through the battery box and tight to the box I added marine goop to keep the water from entering through the holes.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/5756276284_8fdd89c7bd_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5756276284/)

I'm using this type of deck connector from the bait pump to the battery box. It seem like it could come unplugged really easy but we'll just wait and see how it works out.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2272/5756278330_99283d6b3a_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5756278330/)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/5755735057_ec2c866ef8_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5755735057/)

The other side of the battery box has a toggle switch for turning the power on and off as needed.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3017/5756276782_2dd167f2d2_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5756276782/)

ABS pipe cut to about twelve inches and then zip tied to the crate. The small cord is for tying down the rods just in case I roll while out on the water, so hopefully I will not loose any of my gear.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3647/5755734807_94247ca6fb_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5755734807/)

On the Vittles Vault bait tank I drilled some small drain holes, these work perfect with the Rule 360 bilge/bait pump and a 6v 7ah battery with the Mojo timer set at a fifteen seconds on and fifteen seconds off cycle.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3338/5755734269_868f833380_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5755734269/)

On the lid of the bait tank I drilled out a small hole to put the cord through so that I will not accidentally loose the lid while on the water or land for that matter.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2127/5756277554_c98a930f2a_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5756277554/)

This just a small knot tied on the inside of the lid, simple yet effective.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3044/5755733919_dfa5ec03d9_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/42117675@N00/5755733919/)

Thanks for the great ideas guys!

[wiredantz]

Well being the professional yard sales man that i am.

I started thinking of new ways to stow my gear on my X-factor when i am launching and landing.



http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/photo.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/photo2.jpg



After i got tired of my transducer falling off while carrying it upside down i made my transducer act exactly like a rudder i even attached a pull string to come up when landing and launching.



http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/photo4.jpg


http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/photo6.jpg

[old_rookie]

Cool. I like the under hatch stowage area. I am your apprentice in landing yard sales.
Where do you get the bungie strings?

[wiredantz]

You get it by the foot from. Andy at oex or oex in San diego

[tagyak]

i like how you have a deployment system for the transducer.
it looks great, but most people say that you would want the transducer up front rather than in the back. this way it would show the fish that you are going over rather the fish that you already had passed???? unless of course if they are coming from behind you.....

[Slappy]

I used to have a gator hatch on my malibu that my daughter loved to sit on while we fished in lakes and especially in the sierras. anyway the mirage drive temptation got the best of me and I went with a revolution which after about 6 months broke my daughter's heart because she couldn't go to the lake with daddy.

Solution:

Pro Angler with a front swivel seat mod.

Seat $25
Swivel mount $10
Detachable seat mount $20
Stainless hardware $12
Lumber $6


The detach mount allows me to take the seat on and off.

[old_rookie]

I used to have a gator hatch on my malibu that my daughter loved to sit on while we fished in lakes and especially in the sierras. anyway the mirage drive temptation got the best of me and I went with a revolution which after about 6 months broke my daughter's heart because she couldn't go to the lake with daddy.

Solution:

Pro Angler with a front swivel seat mod.

Seat $25
Swivel mount $10
Detachable seat mount $20
Stainless hardware $12
Lumber $6


The detach mount allows me to take the seat on and off.

That is so cool!

[dsafety]

This should be a chapter in the manual that none of us received when we came home from the hospital with our children.

I can see it now, Parenting 101. The chapter heading... Teach your kids to love what you love.

Well done Slappy. Did she catch that fish?

Bob

[Jimmyz123]

Electrical Putty Transducer Installation

Not happy with the wet installation results of my transducer I remembered a Youtube video a friend of mine, John Oast, did about installing a transducer with Electrical Putty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3u1d3_UeD3k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEZ9_C1iKP0

I went back to watch how he did the installation and found another video of someone who tested it on 3 different Kayaks with a couple of different installations. I chose to follow what John did with his transducer.
Here are the materials needed, I did not photo the Marine goop but that is needed to secure the sponge to the Kayak in this method of installation.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst.jpg
I like having the ring to be the guide for where the transducer is going to be installed.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst3.jpg
First I cleaned the area with alcohol prior to gluing the sponge. Then I glued the sponge into place and let that sit for about 5 minutes.
Then I opened the putty and cut off a little chunk. I then formed that into a small flat slab to put in the center of the sponge opening, making sure to really mush it around to fill the opening.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst2.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst4.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst5.jpg
Then I stuck the transducer in the opening and rocked into place.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst6.jpg
This Putty is sticky and does not let things slip. Prior to launching I made sure the transducer did not move and it had not.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/ffgps.jpg
I am very happy with the results I found that the readings were right on, depth wise, and temp wise. The best part to this is I can move the FF to another boat, or Kayak at any time.

Cost of the sponge - 99 Cents
Cost of Electrical Putty - $1.29 Home Depot
Marine Goop and Alcohol already on hand.
Time spent on installation including driving 30 minutes.

Watch the videos I have included there is a way to install without gluing anything to the hull. Great option if you don't want to glue anything to your hull.

[dsafety]

Good job Jimmy. Your method is similar to the grease mount version that I currently use. The wet mount, while very effective can have some problems, most notably leakage.

If you do not see any loss of performance with the putty, this may be a good find as the putty should be less messy than the grease. My only concern would be what happens as the putty ages and dries out.

Please keep us posted.

Bob

[Jimmyz123]

Good job Jimmy. Your method is similar to the grease mount version that I currently use. The wet mount, while very effective can have some problems, most notably leakage.

If you do not see any loss of performance with the putty, this may be a good find as the putty should be less messy than the grease. My only concern would be what happens as the putty ages and dries out.

Please keep us posted.

Bob

I'll keep you posted on this. I placed the remaining putty that I did not use in a ziplock bag so that it will keep fresh. So, as you mentioned, if the putty dries, I'll just peal the old out and put the new in.

[Phatford]

I am suprised that putty works. It is mostly clay and some have fiberglass or other stuff mixed in to keep it strong. I used it a lot in Vaccuum sealing applications. Also I would not expect the putty to release air bubbles, which could be a problem.

I am kind of confused after looking at your picture though... It seemed like your Fish Finder screen was all clutered? Is that right? Mine is perfectly clear except where I would expect to see noise or Hopefully marks...


Good Luck

[Jimmyz123]

I am suprised that putty works. It is mostly clay and some have fiberglass or other stuff mixed in to keep it strong. I used it a lot in Vaccuum sealing applications. Also I would not expect the putty to release air bubbles, which could be a problem.

I am kind of confused after looking at your picture though... It seemed like your Fish Finder screen was all clutered? Is that right? Mine is perfectly clear except where I would expect to see noise or Hopefully marks...


Good Luck

What you are seeing on the screen, other than the water spots, was whatever was in the water. 99.9% of all the area that I was in was clear, there was a lot of bait in the water, grass, temp changes. I would have liked to video the entire outing but I didn't want to bore anyone.

I was a doubtful about the putty myself but I thought well for a $1.29 it can't hurt and if it doesn't work, I'll just Goop it down when I get home. After seeing the results from yesterday, I am very happy with it.

[blitzburgh]

Good job Jimmy. Your method is similar to the grease mount version that I currently use. The wet mount, while very effective can have some problems, most notably leakage.

Bob

Bob, do you have your grease mount posted here anywhere? I cannot find it and would like some deets. Thanks!

[Dunegoat]

Question for you guys who made your own live well;

What speed bilge pump are you using? I'm debating between a 500gph and a 360gph pump. The 500 seems like it blasts a lot of water, maybe too much. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Randy

[Jimmyz123]

I use the 360 and it works great.

[Dunegoat]

I use the 360 and it works great.

That's what I was thinking. I just picked one up from Ace Hardware for less than $20. Hey, what size/type container are you using? I see everyone using the square/rectangular dog food containers but I like the idea of my bait swimming in circles as opposed to hitting the corners with all those right angles. So I'm going to try out a 3.5 gal bucket with a Gamma lid. Just curious what you're using and any input you may want to share.

Thanks,

Randy

[Slappy]

Oh she caught them all. Sometimes Dad has to remind her "Addison where is your bobber?"

[lowprofile]

i didnt make it but its home made. 360gph pump and 3.5gal bucket.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/fishing/baittank.jpg

also made a rod holder that goes on the gator hatch.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090084.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090083.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090085.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090094.jpg

then i cut the bottom tubes to about 1 3/4" and glued a cap to the underside so it clamps the holder to the hatch then extended the top tubes.
sorry for the cell pic
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/0528111256.jpg

[Dunegoat]

i didnt make it but its home made. 360gph pump and 3.5gal bucket.


How's that system working for you? What do you use for a lid?

[lowprofile]

it has a screw on lid. im not sure where the guy that had it previous to me got it. but heres one that converts a standard bucket.

http://www.vtarmynavy.com/gamma-seal-lid.htm

easier ordering

http://www.amazon.com/Gamma2-Gamma-Gallon-Buckets-Pails/dp/B001VBALBK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307412107&sr=8-1

and it works great. kept a 16" bass alive for about 2 hours, probably would have made it all day if we hadnt gone in. and also had it full of sardines (about 25) and kept them alive until i put it in the back of my truck. then they all died in minutes. remember 360 gph is 6 gallons a minute. that will recirculate your bucket twice a minute wich is fine. you could even do a 5 or 7gal. they would only fill to about 4 and 5.5 with the drain holes. but a 360 would be fine for all of them.

[Dunegoat]

it has a screw on lid. im not sure where the guy that had it previous to me got it. but heres one that converts a standard bucket.

http://www.vtarmynavy.com/gamma-seal-lid.htm

That's the lid I bought online today. $8 not bad. I went with a white bucket and lid though to help keep it from absorbing too much heat.

[dsafety]

Bob, do you have your grease mount posted here anywhere? I cannot find it and would like some deets. Thanks!

Here you go. http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/showthread.php?t=7638&highlight=grease+mount (use the search function with keywords "grease mount")


I have been using this technique for nearly a year now with no problems.


Bob

[Jimmyz123]

That's what I was thinking. I just picked one up from Ace Hardware for less than $20. Hey, what size/type container are you using? I see everyone using the square/rectangular dog food containers but I like the idea of my bait swimming in circles as opposed to hitting the corners with all those right angles. So I'm going to try out a 3.5 gal bucket with a Gamma lid. Just curious what you're using and any input you may want to share.

Thanks,

Randy

I picked up a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot, and got a screw on lid from OEX Mission Bay. I too like the bait swimming in circles that's how they school up in the ocean. I'll photo what I did and post it on here.

[bellcon]

After 4 years with the Shimano Bristlol Bay Bag / live well, it was time for a change.

The Shimano bag was great but it was starting to show its age, the plastic liner had gotten a little soft
and would flex and sway if I had to heavy a rod load, the clear lid had dried out and after some modifications the lively Macks were still occasionally able to wiggle their way to freedom.

What I wanted:
A stiff container that would not flex.
A rod holder that would accommodate the larger butts of a jig stick
A simple and secure lid that was easy to open
A portable rig that could be used on any kayak
A tank with a smooth uncluttered interior
and the ability to change the battery and trouble shoot on the water.

I had thought about other containers, ice chest, buckets etc. and I was almost sold on the smaller Vittles Vaults box but decided to go big. I like what I have seen others do with these containers, and just added a few of my own ideas...

I thought long about a thru the hull pump, then a thru the scupper pump.
but decided on the old standard "over the side" pump for simplicity. Then I wanted to be able to remove the pump and hose for transport,
But decided against an exposed plug at the battery. I like the way the pump stores on top of the tank so I don't think transport will be a problem.
Wrapping the hose back into the tank on the Shimano Tank kinked the hose and I was always frustrated with that.

So here you go:

These are the secret fasteners, they are called Connective Cap Nuts, they are made to work with Shoulder Bolts, sometimes called Sex Nuts:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/concapnut.jpg

Side View:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/cside.jpg

Adding the tie down straps, melted a hole in the strap with a soldering iron, bolted thru the rod holder:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/cstrap.jpg

Finished strap with hose fitting and wire loom, a continuous length of shrink wrap over the wire harness from the pump into the battery box:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/cfitting.jpg

Detail of Pelican battery box install:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/cbatbox.jpg

Top View, I may look into a round hatch mounted to the lid, so I don't need to "unscrew" the lid all day.
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/ctop.jpg

Front View, showing Pelican battery box, water proof switch, and 6V / 10Amp battery:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/cfront.jpg

Back View, used regular rod holders at 4 corners and a 2 inch ABS pipe that I flared with heat gun, then made mounting brackets from a coupler that
I cut in half and slid into position:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/P8070040.jpg

Inside View, I got the smooth surface I wanted, I may had a hose to fill the tank from the bottom, I may also add a fitting so I can adjust water level and drain the tank at rear, but for now I wanted to start simple:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/P8070037.jpg

In the Trident:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/cnkyak.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff159/bell6pac/BAIT%20TANK%20LIVE%20WELL/cnyakfront.jpg

Only took about an hour to build, One visit to Andy to OEX Sunset and one or 2 trips to the hardware store... (BS :doh:)

I like it
I wonder if it will fit in a Hobie some day?:sifone:

[reefer]

i like how you have a deployment system for the transducer.
it looks great, but most people say that you would want the transducer up front rather than in the back. this way it would show the fish that you are going over rather the fish that you already had passed???? unless of course if they are coming from behind you.....


When I got my boat, the transducer was also mounted on the back. I questioned that too, but most FF have a WIDE sonar, so it wont really matter of the location. I would rather have mind in the water, reading the Temp, and getting the best reading out of it.

This is the way went about it, work great.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot.com/2011/08/diy-kayak-transducer-arm-for-2012.html

[YakMedic]

When I got my boat, the transducer was also mounted on the back. I questioned that too, but most FF have a WIDE sonar, so it wont really matter of the location. I would rather have mind in the water, reading the Temp, and getting the best reading out of it.

This is the way went about it, work great.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot.com/2011/08/diy-kayak-transducer-arm-for-2012.html
That's pretty cool looking, nice work

[mrJB]

Firstly, the best advice I've seen on how to gaff a hali was written some time ago by Adi:
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/showthread.php?t=6760&highlight=halibut+gaffing

However, for me personally, on the kayak I like to float them by horizontally (rather than letting them "hang with their head above their tail") and hit them with an upward, vertical stroke, hopefully hitting them in the brain or, on the other side, in the stomach.

With that in mind, I've redesigned my gaff incorporating two distinct features: and ergonomic handle to keep my wrist from getting tweaked, and a somewhat different shape of the hook itself. For that vertical upward shot with the gaff I think the piercing part of the hook penetrates better being completely straight, and the sharply angled bend seems to keep a thrashing hali from easily sliding off. Also, it's a bit wider in gap than a standard hook so, theoritically, I can get nearer their center line.

Time will tell...

[wiredantz]

Well, after getting a few gallons in by the last storm, I went by Andy shop and he told that some of the guys put gaskets around the front hatch to reduce the amount of water getting in.


I did the test by putting the hose against the bow and no water came in the front hatch.

What i did was cleaned the plastic and put down some marine glue and then put the weather seal self stick tape on. It provides a better all around seal.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/5eac7c9f.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/f3bfb5df.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/0844b153.jpg

[james92026]

OK.....Mr. and Mrs. Sea Bass the time is almost upon us so I will share a little.

These are (2) of the finest improvised Kayak Fishing tools I have used.
The first is a New Silent Kelp Clip for those WSB missions that take you into the spaghetti. This clip takes up No room at all, nor does it make any metallic sound.

Its very easy to use, Just grab 2 or 3 single strands of kelp and Cuff it. Tie the other end to your kayak.
It will not slip do to wind or current, and you do not have to pile 25 lbs. of salad on your Kayak to anchor.
-A joint venture between Me and Elbie.
-----------------------
Item #2 is a De- Hooking Tool for your Sabiki Rig.
Hold it by the Cork End and use the hook end to grab the line in front of your hooked Mackerel. Just lift and it will invert the hook letting the Mackerel fall off.
Never again will you have to deal with pliers, or your bare hand around those nasty hooks. This thing work like magic.
Yes, it floats.

-I first started using a piece of coat hanger, and making 2 tight loops and a short shaft with the hooked end. I would wear it on my finger like a ring.
I gave away a bunch of them at the launch every time somebody would ask..What the hell is that ? ..I gave them one.:)
-This type you see here is the 2nd generation version that has been improved upon by Rick Robinson. Its a Brass Rod (no rust) and a Champagne Cork. He now operates a factory in China and sells them by the gross.:p:p:p



Kinda like that idea, simple always works. Didnt have any corks laying around but did take a wire coathanger, bent the doubled hook end through one of those Listarene Pocket Misters to have something to hold in palm. Also, since the mister still works, I will always have a means to freshen my breath after planting a wet sloppy one on that YT, Thresher, or flattie. I find that the hangars from dry cleaners (ones with the cardboard) provide you with two lengths of wire with end hook already formed. Dress up the "twisted" portion with a bit of electrical tape or shrink tube.:hmmmm:

[james92026]

copied design from another blog (Palmetto). Excellent instructions with step by step photos. Works great EXCEPT using a 10.5 Inch top support is a little narrow for this particular boat and positions the cart a little too far aft which is not a problem but having the width about 4 to 6 inches wider would enable you to cradle the hull better and more towards the middle/balance point. Having the cart that far back, the tie straps kept sliding back should I happen to lock a wheel in an obstacle. I solved the problem by taking two tie straps from each side of the axel and ran them up to the bow handle, (nothing to buckle, just hold on to the straps) this keeps them taut and the cart does not slide off. A great little project for a cart that comes apart to store in an "A" hatch. and costs about $33 to build. just a FYI....

[lowprofile]

also made a rod holder that goes on the gator hatch.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090084.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090083.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090085.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090094.jpg

then i cut the bottom tubes to about 1 3/4" and glued a cap to the underside so it clamps the holder to the hatch then extended the top tubes.
sorry for the cell pic
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/0528111256.jpg

well this didnt work out to well. to much wieght and not enough support for the rods as an outrigger....

so.. i did THIS!

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090674.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090675.jpg

much better and more Lowprofile

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i214/katguy/Kayaking/P1090648.jpg

[james92026]

5355don't know how good it will be, but just messing around and made one out of sturdy wire coat hangar (the type that have a coating). It is simply bent into loop, hooks on each side, wrapped top loop with electrical tape. It seems strong enough and when weight is on it, the hooks hold firm. Of course you can get a real one for $18.95.

[lowprofile]

Well, after getting a few gallons in by the last storm, I went by Andy shop and he told that some of the guys put gaskets around the front hatch to reduce the amount of water getting in.


I did the test by putting the hose against the bow and no water came in the front hatch.

What i did was cleaned the plastic and put down some marine glue and then put the weather seal self stick tape on. It provides a better all around seal.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/5eac7c9f.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/f3bfb5df.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w21/darkmatrix84/0844b153.jpg

i just did this. used the 7/16 thick and i think 1" wide. makes the hatch sit a little higher and actually compress on the gasket now instead of having a little play. thanks for the idea!

and if anyone is wondering, it takes two 10ft bags and pretty much and entire tube of glue.

[redfish12]

Here's some easy ones to keep this thing going... No where near as impressive or useful, but you know know how it goes.

Leader spool - reuse a braid spool, ziptie to frame, and add snap hook = done.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nQhaiH-Hz6Q/TWfRe9JrrRI/AAAAAAAAFMQ/YdmLZ_kHd90/s800/photo%25201.JPG

Rod leash attachment point. Here's one for use when you have the rod out of the holder.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CAc7F6ooxLU/Tyw_sdhQviI/AAAAAAAAFW8/D6CBSUKhyd4/s800/IMG_0808.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WJBCGjVcE10/Tyw_svKm-MI/AAAAAAAAFXI/XbL5u2RifcQ/s800/IMG_0809.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3CAghBHubJY/Tyw_vajpEsI/AAAAAAAAFXg/MoCeX5maxXI/s800/IMG_0812.JPG

Seat pad, yoga mats work great too... and let's face it women have their own hobbies full of equipment that doesn't get used... so you all probably have a few of these laying around too! Goop has held it in place for over a year.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-58hvfXhLfzw/TiY-v9vtXOI/AAAAAAAAFMQ/DPYRNCt_p_g/s800/photo.JPG

[jorluivil]

I was interested in purchasing one of those new Hobie deep trays for my Outback but I was getting nothing but bad reviews from those that already had them. Most if not all of the guys that I talked to stated that if to much weight was added or if it was a hot day the tray would give and fall through into the kayak, I decided to buy it anyway and see what I could do to keep it from falling through. After figuring out why the tray would fall through I came up with a little idea.

Step 1
cut a piece of 3/4" PVC to size
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-02-12_18-10-04_404.jpg?t=1329099966

Step 2
Goop the hell out of it
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-02-12_18-10-26_725.jpg?t=1329099966


It works great!! I had roughly 3 lbs of lead, my digital scale, digital camera, cell phone and a few other small items in the tray and it never fell through.

[bryguth]

Step 2
Goop the hell out of it
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-02-12_18-10-26_725.jpg?t=1329099966


It works great!! I had roughly 3 lbs of lead, my digital scale, digital camera, cell phone and a few other small items in the tray and it never fell through.[/QUOTE]

Good idea George!!! I purchased one on Sat, took it out Hooping on Sunday and it already has cracks in the same places were you added the reinfocement... I am convinced that goop is the new duct tape... I wonder what McGguyver would have done with a little goop and PVC?

:yt::jig:

[dsafety]

For me, the biggest problem with the Hobie hatch system is that there is usually water that settles in the seams around the hatch. When I open the hatch, all that water falls on my previously dry stuff.

Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem, (other than the obvious towel option.)

Bob

[jorluivil]

For me, the biggest problem with the Hobie hatch system is that there is usually water that settles in the seams around the hatch. When I open the hatch, all that water falls on my previously dry stuff.

Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem, (other than the obvious towel option.)

Bob

Drill some tiny holes in the bottom of the bucket/tray. I'll post pics later

[jorluivil]

Here's some easy ones to keep this thing going... No where near as impressive or useful, but you know know how it goes.

Leader spool - reuse a braid spool, ziptie to frame, and add snap hook = done.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nQhaiH-Hz6Q/TWfRe9JrrRI/AAAAAAAAFMQ/YdmLZ_kHd90/s800/photo%25201.JPG



I like the idea but I would use something with a higher breaking point, 15lbs seems a little to weak. Why not try some of that black bungee cord?

[redfish12]

Oh the braid was 15lb but after I spooled up... I refilled the spool with 30lb hi seas mono for leader. Just pull out your leader length then use the built in cutter. We use a lot of light braid on the east coast but a heavier leader to deal with abrasion.

[echo1er]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4SiZdAACpk

[jorluivil]

Meant to post this a while ago.

This is how I store my kayak

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-01_15-51-28_359.jpg?t=1330646299


The red rope keep is hooked to the two lines, this helps keep the straps from sliding off when I'm lifting the kayak up.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-01_15-51-45_467.jpg?t=1330646299



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-01_15-51-57_300.jpg?t=1330646299



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-01_15-54-01_991.jpg?t=1330646298

[jorluivil]

After trying several ways to come up with the easiest way to measure my fish while on the water I finally decided to go out and buy a sticker. Not wanting to under measure a fish I decided to take one extra simple step.

Step 1

Stick sticker on paddle, place the sticker on the side that DOES NOT have the paddle release button

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-02_16-54-30_257.jpg?t=1330736435



Step 2

Place a ring of Goop around the entire paddle right around the 1/2" mark. Slide the paddle drip ring over, as you're sliding it over keep turning the drip ring so that it will evenly distribute the Goop.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-02_20-22-16_770.jpg?t=1330748770




Final product

I placed the ring about 1/2" over to avoid under measuring

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-02_20-28-12_555.jpg?t=1330748957

[GregAndrew]

George, my inner carpenter is on tilt. You should have set the drip ring 5/8" off the end of the tape to accomplish what you intended. The way you have it set, all of your fish measurements will seem longer than they are by 5/8". I use the same type of stick on measuring tape and have considered fixing my drip ring off of the low end for fish longer than the tape. I centered mine on my paddle and just cut out the release button and cut it along the separation between the two ends. Another couple of things to remember when you affix the sticker is to have your paddle positioned as it will sit on your yak as you use it. My paddle has a right and left side and on it's own rolls to a certain side up based on my blade offset. I have wasted a couple stickers that roll to the underside of my paddle when I try to use them.

[bellcon]

I placed the ring about 5/8" over to avoid under measuring

How do you make a 21-3/8" halibut legal?
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Borrow Georges paddle to measure it of course.


Nice try George
it's the thought that counts:D

[roby]

After trying several ways to come up with the easiest way to measure my fish while on the water I finally decided to go out and buy a sticker. Not wanting to under measure a fish I decided to take one extra simple step.

Step 1

Stick sticker on paddle, place the sticker on the side that DOES NOT have the paddle release button

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-02_16-54-30_257.jpg?t=1330736435



Step 2

Place a ring of Goop around the entire paddle right around the 1/2" mark. Slide the paddle drip ring over, as you're sliding it over keep turning the drip ring so that it will evenly distribute the Goop.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-02_16-55-08_921.jpg?t=1330736492


Final product

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Innovations/2012-03-02_16-55-27_684.jpg?t=1330736492



I placed the ring about 5/8" over to avoid under measuring

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/2012-03-02_17-23-33_646.jpg?t=1330738025

Nice catch fellas....this is good stuff.

I wanted to save this post for future reference......

[kobra]

Uh oh. Busted! :stupid::wink:

[Tman]

Ouch...that's gonna leave a mark.

Penalty!

Let's see...28 X 5/8 X 22 X Y = 1,540
(Y = # of halis caught using measuring device)

Deduct 1,540 posts from post count...:doh:...:D

[jorluivil]

Ouch...that's gonna leave a mark.

Penalty!

Let's see...28 X 5/8 X 22 X Y = 1,540
(Y = # of halis caught using measuring device)

Deduct 1,540 posts from post count...:doh:...:D

Holy crap........what a dumb ass!! Back to the drawing board.

EPIC FAIL!!

Funny thing it that when I placed the measuring tape over it I noticed it but didn't think twice about it........its been a looooooong week. I'm off to bed for an hour than off to work!!! As usual.....glad I could entertain you guys.

[William Novotny]

George, my inner carpenter is on tilt. You should have set the drip ring 5/8" off the end of the tape to accomplish what you intended. The way you have it set, all of your fish measurements will seem longer than they are by 5/8". I use the same type of stick on measuring tape and have considered fixing my drip ring off of the low end for fish longer than the tape. I centered mine on my paddle and just cut out the release button and cut it along the separation between the two ends. Another couple of things to remember when you affix the sticker is to have your paddle positioned as it will sit on your yak as you use it. My paddle has a right and left side and on it's own rolls to a certain side up based on my blade offset. I have wasted a couple stickers that roll to the underside of my paddle when I try to use them.

Thaaaaaaaaats why all your fish are so big

[ful-rac]

Ouch...that's gonna leave a mark.

Penalty!

Let's see...28 X 5/8 X 22 X Y = 1,540
(Y = # of halis caught using measuring device)

Deduct 1,540 posts from post count...:doh:...:D


Ahahahahahhahhahhahah!!!!:luxhello:

Good one jorge!!!!

[StinkyMatt]

So using your "FUZZY" logic your 40 incher really measured out at 36.5 inches. I win!!!!!!!!



Now show us all how you calibrate your scale?:D:D:D

[kobra]

So using your "FUZZY" logic your 40 incher really measured out at 36.5 inches. I win!!!!!!!!



Now show us all how you calibrate your scale?:D:D:D



That's easy Matt, just get a ten pound basket and put your fish in it. :D

[echo1er]

Well I tried
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaUDEY6zRUU

[bus kid]

That's easy Matt, just get a ten pound basket and put your fish in it. :D

baawwaaahhhhaaaa, so that's how all you guys have been posting in the 50+ thread.

[jorluivil]

Well I tried
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaUDEY6zRUU


Why not use one long sticker and cut it where the paddle separates? Bring me your paddle......I'll hook you up with a sticker that is sure to get you so many legals you won't know what to do with all the fish.

[Regor]

Taking the example from Walrus, I wanted to take it one step furthur for the ease of filling it with water and to make it a little more secure.

The terminal box is from just about any DIY hardware store. I purchased all my materials from Marshals on 8423 Production Ave (at Miramar Rd). They have every bit of hardware you will need, from Termial box to stainless hardware and stainless/rubber washers.


Purchase your terminal box so it is just big enough to hold your ducer. Accuracy in drilling the holes is crucial to maintaining a parallel ducer install, both left and right, and up and down so the ducer sits parallel to the bottom of your yak.

I wanted an easy way to fill the ducer holder with water, so I drilled a hole in the sail mast. This enabled a refill at any time (although I have noticed "0" water loss). The terminal box sits right against the sail mast, so the mast also serves as something stable to secure the terminal box against.

The initial results are great. I can following a jig all the way up/down past 100', and watch it as it sits there 10' above the bottom : )


.
.
.
The ducer sitting in the terminal box
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/674/IMG_0864_640.jpg
.
.


The sail mast removal
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/674/IMG_0868_640.jpg
.
.

The install
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/674/IMG_0880_640.jpg
.
.

The final product
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/674/IMG_0883_640.jpg
.
.

[bellcon]

Very clean
:cheers1:

not sure it matters, but isn't your transducer in backwards now ?

[Regor]

Very clean
:cheers1:

not sure it matters, but isn't your transducer in backwards now ?

I just go in reverse all day :D

*** Results may differ based on your Transducer ***
*** I have a Lowrance ***

Based on the techies over at Lowrance, the transducer I have is strictly 2D. It does not matter if I put it in as you would mount a Transom mount (facing to the back), or 180 degrees (backwards). As long as it is parallel to the bottom and sides, and you are shooting straight down, you will get a good picture and arches.

[bellcon]

I just go in reverse all day :D

*** Results may differ based on your Transducer ***
*** I have a Lowrance ***

Based on the techies over at Lowrance, the transducer I have is strictly 2D. It does not matter if I put it in as you would mount a Transom mount (facing to the back), or 180 degrees (backwards). As long as it is parallel to the bottom and sides, and you are shooting straight down, you will get a good picture and arches.


Thats what I thought, maybe the "front" is the front just because of the shape, to cut through the water when mounted on the transom?
I guess with side imagining it may make a difference? right is left?

On my trident I put it in as directed by Humminbird (front facing front)
even though the knuckle heads at Ocean Kayak made the indention for the through supper backwards...

http://www.momentoffame.com/photopost/data/528/medium/IM000121.JPG

[Regor]

Thats what I thought, maybe the "front" is the front just because of the shape, to cut through the water when mounted on the transom?


Yes, at least in the case of my Lowrance transom mount.

[Caffeind]

Regor, which Hobie are you on?
...and did you have to shape that terminal box at all to seal or does your yak have a nice flat spot it fits?

[Regor]

Regor, which Hobie are you on?
...and did you have to shape that terminal box at all to seal or does your yak have a nice flat spot it fits?

It's a Revo.

One of the reasons I installed the ducer as far back as possible (under the sail mast) is that it is somewhat flat there. I still had to do a little sanding on the sides of the terminal box, but none on the front or back of the box. The farther you move towards the front of the Revo, the hull gets steeper and steeper and requires more and more sanding to fit.

IF I had a smaller ducer (other than the Lowrance), a smaller terminal box would probably have fit even further back under the sail mast, but the Lowrance is too big.

BTW - I also did two sessions of goop. The second one was one day later, and it was just to make sure to fill in any possible air pockets that may have formed from the 1st goop session. The reason I did this - when I pulled my old Eagle ducer out of the direct goop to hull, I was shocked at the LARGE air pocket that had been riding under my ducer for the last year !

.
.

[kobra]

One way to avoid air bubbles is to put your tube of goop into a container of hot water for a few minutes. This thins the goop out allowing trapped air to escape. This method works best when using a foam retainer to hold the tranny.

[dc1983]

I recently added a new seat to my kayak. It consists of a Bass Pro folding boat seat with a boat seat swivel. Then I put a Wise Quick connect boat seat mount on the kayak.

materials used-
Bass Pro Folding boat seat-24.99
Bass Pro Boat seat swivel- 9.99
Wise Quick Connect Boat seat mount 20.99
screws/bolt/washers- like $15 (had to go back and get longer bolts)
scrap wood
tube of Marine Goop

Screws/bolts/washers were
1/4 in by 5 in X 4
1/4 in by 3 in X 4
1/4 in bolts X 8
washers X 24

Ok now to how it all went together-

I cut the scrap wood to fit the match the Wise Quick connect. Then drilled the holes to mount the quick connect to the wood. I used the wood with holes drilled as a guide and drilled the holes into the kayak. once this was done I placed the wood block and Quick connect together and used over 3/4 of the Marine Goop on the bottom of the wood and placed the weather stripping around the edges of the wood. then bolted it all in to where the seat would go.


On the top of the Wise quick connect I had to unscrew the top lip and place washers under the piece of metal to allow the base for the seat to slip in.

I drilled out the holes in the seat to connect the seat to the swivel base to allow for a better hold (the screws that come with the seat seem weak to me) For the Stealth 14 because of the bait tank hatch I had to cut out a little bit of the front center of the seat to beable to open the hatch.

Then put it all together and here is the end result. I used a Drimal tool to sand down all the edges that were still touching the kayak and causing friction.(pretty much just the back of the folding seat and the back corners on the bottom.

I took it out to Dana Point last weekend to test it out. The seat didn'e really change the center of Gravity. It felt the same as before I installed the seat as far as stability goes. I caught a 18 lb Halibut and never felt that I was going to tip over.

Another good thing i found is by Installing the seat this way it creates a space below the seat for more storage. My Nalgene bottle will fit under the seat perfectly.

Hope this helps those that had questions and feel free to ask all the questions you want. Next project is a trolling motor and I WILL be asking lots of Questions. My Goal is to make this stealth 14 better than a Pro Angler!!:)

[bus kid]

Nice work on the seat, did you use any type of sealer on the wood like varnish or Thompsons?

[dc1983]

Nice work on the seat, did you use any type of sealer on the wood like varnish or Thompsons?

No I didn't think about it untill after I had already completed everything.

[echo1er]

So I broke a pole at DP kelp bed. Saw a innovation someone did so I deiced to follow.

and... working on a new bait tank.

[gupppy]

So I broke a pole at DP kelp bed. Saw a innovation someone did so I deiced to follow.

and... working on a new bait tank.

nice looking gaff. does the hook wobble at all? where did you get it from?

[GR6RR]

I'd stick that inside the pole with some heavy duty epoxy. Would one think MG would work?

[gupppy]

btw, is the hook's angle too circular; ie pointing towards the shaft a bit much?

[old_rookie]

Thats what I thought, maybe the "front" is the front just because of the shape, to cut through the water when mounted on the transom?
I guess with side imagining it may make a difference? right is left?

On my trident I put it in as directed by Humminbird (front facing front)
even though the knuckle heads at Ocean Kayak made the indention for the through supper backwards...

http://www.momentoffame.com/photopost/data/528/medium/IM000121.JPG

Bellcon - How much is your transducer sticking out, below the hull? I did the same with a Garmin on my OK.
I tried to minimize how far it sticks out, but it still does about 1/3" or so. Seems ok when dragging across the sand since the bow is lifted up, and when resting on the sand the shape of the hull prevents any pressure up against the transducer.

[tagyak]

it is starting to get to that time of year where lots of us go out fishing late at night or o'dark early morning. trying to keep myself safe and more visible i thought that i would add a flag to my ride.

i went to home depot and found a fiberglass stick about 5/16 in size, that had a reflector attached to the top, it's about three feet in length. i think the original use for this was to line them along your drive way so that it would help illuminate the path for you. so i added some reflective tape to the pole and also added a flag, (thanks george for that vitamin water bag).

the next thing i wanted to do is illuminate the pole using some type of light. went to bass pro shop, but i am sure other stores have this type of light. (just wanted to use my gift cert that i got for my birthday.) roamed around the store looking at all the different type of lights that were available. finally found this LED Wand. i liked it because it is waterproof and also submersible. also the light is able to be used with a high beam, low beam and also strobe setting. i was a bit concerned that the light would turn itself off after 30 mins like that other types of wand lights out there but it has not so far.

what i did to attach this to my flag pole was to use some clips that i had gotten when i had purchased a light rope. the light rope for those who aren't familiar are the outdoor lights that you can buy at the home gardening section at your local target or walmart stores. i am not sure if they come with all the light ropes. the one that i had gotten was designed to hang from the outdoor umbrella so that's why it had these clips.

i attached the clips to the wand and used goop to glue it. after that just snapped the other side to the flag pole and it worked perfectly. i may add a clip to the wand and then to the pole just in case it gets knocked off.

hope that this is informative and useful to others. keep safe out there and good hunting. :wsb: :p

[StinkyMatt]

Nice Tim.

Now you just have to go fishing!


Those little clips deteriorate very quickly in sun exposure and become brittle after a season or two, I had some in my back yard.

See out there this weekend.

[tagyak]

thanks matt. but for me i probably won't have the problem of brittle clips. i really don't get out very often and when i do, i would not be bring this out with me unless it is a night or early morning launch. so with that it should be okay regards to the uv rays.

[Papa drew]

I am working on this right now. I could not upload the image but here is the web link.

I made this portable fish finder to be mounted on and Scotty base as soon as I figure out how to make the folding arms for the transducer I will post more pictures. I have it running on a 12v 7 amp hour battery. The unit turns on and runs have not tested it the ocean yet. I will this sat in NPH.

http://img851.imageshack.us/i/imagebdp.jpg/

Papa drew

[jorluivil]

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Fishing%20Misc/photobucket-1933-1336888638446.jpg?t=1336888797

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Fishing%20Misc/photobucket-24642-1336888617215.jpg?t=1336888797


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af96/jorgelvillegas/Fishing%20Misc/photobucket-15495-1336888594243.jpg?t=1336888797

[DanaPT]

So i had a few of these sticks laying around. I bought the gaff hook at the jig stop in dana point. The gaff has a nail/point at the end of the shaft to "hammer into" in this case the stick. So a couple of whacks to drive the point into the wood. . . it doesn't slide up and down. Added the rope wrap, sideways now strong. I suppose I can use a lacquer for added protection and maybe strength, but it's on solid.

All the chatter on the home-made "ghetto" gaff got me to thinking I needed more tests. Bring on the 50lb trash cans, this baby works and lasts. I've had is since 2009 when I started. I think it floats too which is why I still have it. :D

[Chief Gunner]

I Picked up a self contained (batteries inside, no wires to screw with and no load on the electrical system;) CHEAP! Waterproof 360 degree boat light at Walmart. The pole it came with was too short so I took the screw out, broke out my drill and mounted it on a tent pole I had laying around. It's higher than my head and fits snugly in the mast post on my PA and it puts out a decent ammount of light for those dark launches and times on the water. It was much cheaper than the purpose built lights for sale at the stealerships and it is clean looking on the boat.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii579/41FishinFool/cheaplight1.jpg
Here's another home made idea I put together from stuff I had laying around, my Rod leashes...they work great!
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii579/41FishinFool/rodleashes.jpg
here's my modified Sea Striker Gaff, drilled a hole in the grommet and attatched a Bungee leash then used super glue to make sure it would not pop out.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii579/41FishinFool/gaffwithleash.jpg
This was a great add on to my Tarpon 160i....these Stainless Steel Shackles are available at Home Depot for less than 1/2 of what you would pay for them at West Marine or any boat / Kayak store. They Make strapping stuff down easier with conventional bungees than the super small cleats that most yaks have installed.
http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii579/41FishinFool/shackles.jpg

[roby]

I got some advice from a friend I wanted to pass on. A light up front will actually work against you at night. It's better to place the light behind you if possible....

Cool mods by the way....

http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii579/41FishinFool/cheaplight1.jpg

[Chief Gunner]

Very Good Point! So I did a Quick & Easy Fix. I took a soft large tapered red scupper plug and drilled a 3/4" hole through the center of it, cut it in half and slid the two pieces up the bottom of the light pole and spaced them out. It seats vey snugly in the center rod holder on my bait tank (I can even lift the hole thing by grabbing the pole)it is not going to slide out if I roll over. It pops right out too with a little tugging. I'm not too worried about losing a rod holder at all since it is a PA & I have more than enough places to put rods. Always Better to be safe than sorry fer sure.

http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii579/41FishinFool/rearlight.jpg

[echo1er]

another DIY bait tank.
I went back to my smaller tank cause the other one seem heavy.
Went to OEX Oceanside Dive and Kayak to get the pump.
Now all I have to do is wire up the battery box.
Trying to test this out tomorrow.

[jorluivil]

another DIY bait tank.
I went back to my smaller tank cause the other one seem heavy.
Went to OEX Oceanside Dive and Kayak to get the pump.
Now all I have to do is wire up the battery box.
Trying to test this out tomorrow.


The overflow looks way to low, you might want to put an elbow on it and raise it by a few inches.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/attachment.php?attachmentid=6612&stc=1&d=1338694114

[dsafety]

The overflow looks way to low, you might want to put an elbow on it and raise it by a few inches.



The same comment could be applied to the input from the pump. If you leave the intake tube at the bottom of the tank, all the water will drain out when the power is off. Put a 90 degree ell on the pump and add a piece of pipe that extends up about 6 inches. That way, if you lose power or accidentally turn off the pump, your tank will stay full of water and your bait will live a bit longer.

Bob

[echo1er]

thanks added the elbow. Got a some ideas off Youtuber rudyhail77.

[Cvaladez2]

Why spend tons on a Scotty rod holder? $3 bucks PVC LOL....

[Jimmyz123]

Why spend tons on a Scotty rod holder? $3 bucks PVC LOL....

I'm with you on this. I have one of those scotty rod mounts that has the arms and man is that thing difficult to work with while on the water.

[tagyak]

thats pretty thrifty of you to use the pvc that way. if you paint it black it would look more factory. ;)

[LDO10]

I use a pump-type garden sprayer to wash sand off the kayak be loading on my SUV. Also can be used to washdown rods and reels, etc.

Lots of great ideas here...Thanks

[RockyRaab]

I originally posted this in the general forum, but decided to duplicate it here so it wouldn't scroll off into oblivion...

Hobie Pro Angler-14 Simple Seat Riser Mod
<hr style="color:#FFFFFF; background-color:#FFFFFF" size="1"> For you Pro Angler-14 owners: I wanted a higher seat in my PA14, for a better leg angle while pedaling, and for general comfort. It would also allow my old bones to stand up easier!

Here's what I built, in rough state but fitted together. After a trial or two on the water, I'll round the edges with a router and then sand and finish it.

Parts List:
One 32" length of 2x4 (I used a piece of fir with straight grain)
Four 1/4" x 1½" galvanized cap-head bolts
Two 1/4" x 3" bolts
Two 1/4" x 4" bolts
Four 1/4" nuts and eight washers

Cut the 2x4 into two 16" pieces. Mark the bolt hole locations. Using a hole saw, drill two 1½" holes through the sides of each riser, centered. Drill four 5/16" bolt holes from top and bottom, into the large holes. Assemble. Attach the risers to the seat using four 1½" bolts and washers. Attach the aluminum base using the 4" and 3" bolts, with washers and nuts.

Here are the risers attached to the base, for clarity. (I trimmed the riser ends at 45° for a better look.)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/RockyRaab/Kayak/IMG_0027.jpg

Here's the seat and base, upside-down

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/RockyRaab/Kayak/IMG_0029.jpg

Here's the assembled unit from the side

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/RockyRaab/Kayak/IMG_0030.jpg

And from the front

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/RockyRaab/Kayak/IMG_0031.jpg

Note the added storage room, too! Total cost was about five dollars. Hard to beat that.

[RockyRaab]

Finally got the boat out today to test that seat mod.

Folks, it's magic. My leg angle from hips to pedals is MUCH improved. That means I'm no longer resting right on my tailbone the whole time. Discomfort and fatigue are drastically reduced.

Now, I can take it apart and "purdy" it up some with rounded edges and some sealer and stain.

I recommend this mod to anyone who owns a PA-14.

[SABA]

Hello
I like to post these links on a few items that may help you folks on your bait tanks. Just check your local Aquarium shop for them.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3669+3693&pcatid=3693


http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+4076&pcatid=4076

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+8999&pcatid=8999

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+4080&pcatid=4080

https://www.strapworks.com/default.asp

The last link is a company that carries Tubular Webbing
for rod leashs

Cheers Saba:cheers1:

[Jimmyz123]

Electrical Putty Transducer Installation

Not happy with the wet installation results of my transducer I remembered a Youtube video a friend of mine, John Oast, did about installing a transducer with Electrical Putty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3u1d3_UeD3k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEZ9_C1iKP0

I went back to watch how he did the installation and found another video of someone who tested it on 3 different Kayaks with a couple of different installations. I chose to follow what John did with his transducer.
Here are the materials needed, I did not photo the Marine goop but that is needed to secure the sponge to the Kayak in this method of installation.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst.jpg
I like having the ring to be the guide for where the transducer is going to be installed.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst3.jpg
First I cleaned the area with alcohol prior to gluing the sponge. Then I glued the sponge into place and let that sit for about 5 minutes.
Then I opened the putty and cut off a little chunk. I then formed that into a small flat slab to put in the center of the sponge opening, making sure to really mush it around to fill the opening.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst2.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst4.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst5.jpg
Then I stuck the transducer in the opening and rocked into place.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/TrasInst6.jpg
This Putty is sticky and does not let things slip. Prior to launching I made sure the transducer did not move and it had not.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c110/Jimmyz123/ffgps.jpg
I am very happy with the results I found that the readings were right on, depth wise, and temp wise. The best part to this is I can move the FF to another boat, or Kayak at any time.

Cost of the sponge - 99 Cents
Cost of Electrical Putty - $1.29 Home Depot
Marine Goop and Alcohol already on hand.
Time spent on installation including driving 30 minutes.

Watch the videos I have included there is a way to install without gluing anything to the hull. Great option if you don't want to glue anything to your hull.

There was a concern mentioned that what happens to the putty after time, does it break down, does it have any issues. I have actually used the same chunck of putty shown in the picture to install my FF in the Malibu and Kayak I had and also now in the Prowler I currently own. It does not lose it's stickyness, and has not effected the performance at all. I know many love the water mount install, but I challenge you to explore going away from the popular trend, save some money, and install this way if you are shooting thru the hull.

[echo1er]

portable rod holder.

well since I'm stuck on land for awhile. I wanted to update my rod holder. One that can hold more rods and it doesn't' get in the way of my hobie when its loaded on my truck.

everything cost under $50