Hull repair?

[Sherm]

Was out at LJ yesterday and almost rolled the yak. Felt very Unstable. I opened the hatch and the hull was half full of water. I bailed everything out and continued a few more times during the day.

When I got home a found a big ding in the bottom of the keel. There is a small hole about the size of a pencil lead through the hull.

The question is....can this be repaired or am I screwed? I'm very comfortable on the old Fish n Dive. I would hate to give her up over a pin hole.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Sherm

[467echo]

I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure the guys at OEX can fix it up.

[yani]

Hey Sherm,

Here's some advice. Don't take your kayak to Wes
in Gardena for repairs.

I took my kayak there over a year ago for leak repairs.
Which I paid for, no arguments.
When I got it back, I let my brother-in-law use it.
I almost drown him, since, I never checked their repairs,
and assumed they did good work. It still leaked, in a
bad way.

So, I took it back last Dec. And I've been getting the run
around ever since. The last conversion I had, last week, went
like this: We can't afford to repair the expensive welding gun
it takes to repair your kayak. We can't afford to have any
repair workers on staff. Come and get your kayak, and repair
it somewhere else.

Apparently, Corbra doesn't honor its "life time warranty" anymore.

Sad, since I've been promoting the FnD, to many of my friends, and club
members. They all bought one. I feel bad for leading people down the wrong path.

[Sherm]

Thanks for letting me where not to go Yani.

I'll start with the OEX guys. I know they don't deal with Cobra but they may know how to repair or be able to point me in the right direction.

Unfortunately...the place I bought it is out of business. At least it's the same spot OEX now occupies.

[hatchetman]

last I heard rick was down off Morena blvd by sears outlet, I believe he is still there and know he will fix it he has fixed larger holes than that in my fnd from screws used to hold scotty mounts.

[stairman]

Get stainless steel screw with a diameter(not the outside of the threads) that is a little bit larger then the hole ,then if you have access to the area inside, shape a piece of good mahogany or teak that is bigger then the hole by three inches or so from the hole in each direction,and thicker then the screww is long. Use goop or any type of flexible glue on the bottom of the wood and the surface around the hole inside.Make sure the surfaces are clean.Have the wood have a small pilot hole and screw has a neoprene washer and metal washer. And screw that thing in good and tight.
You probably have 2-3 psi of water pressure to keep out so it shouldn't be too difficult.
That is unless your like a friend of mine with two college degrees that can cross thread a wing nut on a battery terminal!Then you could pay some dope like me that didn't graduate from highschool to do it!
Shit you can figure out how to use a computor!
I did a repair just like that on an aluminum boat that lasted 15 years!If the wood is good and dry when installed it will swell when wet. If you get the mating surfaces shaped pretty similar it should work dam well.The bonus is that now you have a skid plate on the bottom!

[peguinpower]

ICEMAN can have somebody weld that up with PE in no time. I have seen 2 inch wide cuts welded elsewhere. It wasnt pretty, but it worked :)

/bing

[Rob929]

The screw sounds like a good idea. Unless its on the keel that would be exposed to the ground (dragging on the beach, loading etc.)

Another option would be to get a plastic welding kit (think they have reasonable prices on them at Harbor freight) Then you could practice on a scrap, or somewhere else on the kayak to get the temperature and technique right.

Otherwise, as always, oex is a great option.

[Sherm]

Get stainless steel screw with a diameter(not the outside of the threads) that is a little bit larger then the hole ,then if you have access to the area inside, shape a piece of good mahogany or teak that is bigger then the hole by three inches or so from the hole in each direction,and thicker then the screww is long. Use goop or any type of flexible glue on the bottom of the wood and the surface around the hole inside.Make sure the surfaces are clean.Have the wood have a small pilot hole and screw has a neoprene washer and metal washer. And screw that thing in good and tight.
You probably have 2-3 psi of water pressure to keep out so it shouldn't be too difficult.
That is unless your like a friend of mine with two college degrees that can cross thread a wing nut on a battery terminal!Then you could pay some dope like me that didn't graduate from highschool to do it!
Shit you can figure out how to use a computor!
I did a repair just like that on an aluminum boat that lasted 15 years!If the wood is good and dry when installed it will swell when wet. If you get the mating surfaces shaped pretty similar it should work dam well.The bonus is that now you have a skid plate on the bottom!


I was thingking the same thing. But the hole is so far back on the yak that trying to get to it on the inside will be an issue. I'll probably just ahve the OEX guys do it.

[Jimmyz123]

I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure the guys at OEX can fix it up.

He is correct. Before I bought my Kayak the owner took it to OEX in Oceanside and they welded the bow. I have a Cobra Kayak and OEX will fix them. Good luck.

[zenspearo]

Have you tried G-flex epoxy by West?

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-torture-demo/

[frady]

The bug machine is taking on water not good. Take it down to OEX they will fix it back up. Hope you guys had a good day on the water other than the hole.

[Gino]

Thats a very easy fix! Take it down and have it fixed at OEX, I cant Imagine they would charge and arm and a leg for somethign simple. You can use hulcliner on the inside of the yak where the hole is to reinforce and help close the hole.

If you got a Tortch and a repair stick, you can fix it yourself, but I'd be carefull unless u know what ur doin

[dgax65]

If you got a Tortch and a repair stick, you can fix it yourself, but I'd be carefull unless u know what ur doin

HHHhhmmmmhhhh! Torch bad. Fire Bad. Fire on kayak-bad. Hhhmmmmmhhh. Kayak melt! :hmpf:

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegallery/data/533/X-Factor_hull_damage_023_Medium_.jpg

Practice on something other than your kayak before taking a torch to it. Bad things can happen.

[speedydk]

I'm sure Iceman could fix it he did a great job filling in the scupper from the fish hold of my X13!

[greenscales]

Sherm,

PM or call me. Wes gave me a bunch of repair materials for Cobras to take down to Costa Rica last Spring for some guides, I have a little left over. It comes in a long, solid strip the thickness of a straw. You use a cheap/low powered soldering iron to melt it while touching the kayak to soften up the plastic (preferably from the inside). It takes a while, and the tip of the iron looks like crap when you are done, but it works. I've used it to make some major repairs on the stern keel of my Tourer, and it worked great. I actually beefed it up.
I was thinking about hitting up LJ tomorrow or Wed, let me know I can bring some of the material and the soldering iron I use.

greenscales

[Sherm]

I went down to OEX yesterday evening. They fixed it right up. Ready to get back on the water. Well.....as soon as Fred Hall is over.

If Any of you guys are going to the show......stop by and say hello at my companies booth. (5th Avenue Insurance) It would be nice to put faces to names. We will be up there schlepping insurance. We are also raffling off a seeker rod and Sealine reel combo.

I look forward to seeing everyone.

Tight Lines.

[MalibuJohnny]

I'm sure Iceman could fix it he did a great job filling in the scupper from the fish hold of my X13!

Andy fixed a crack in my X Factor...he can fix anything! oh! and handles and straps and....

[Peter]

Soldering iron and a piece of plastic scrap from a boat does the trick. I have repaired my FnD keel twice now. First repair lasted 3 years, the second was just last week. I have the scrap from my hatch install, which is kind of useful. I'm sure any dealer would spare you a piece of plastic.

That being said, I'm sure the guys at OEX would do a great job.

[T Bone]

I havent needed it,but when I added a hatch I made sure I kept he cutout for just such a reason.people take note.

[Rolo]

Kayak welding is not hard at all. You can do it with a common soildering iron from a home center. Be sure to clean it very good before starting. make a "v" grove for the new material. Most people will drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks to stop them from spreading. Then jus slowly fill in the gap with the rod material. Most manufacturers will send you repair material for free. They get it from cut outs.

Go to urethanesupply.com. They have very good instructions and all the materials you would ever need. Just go slow and take your time. It's easy.

Rolo

[trob]

FYI We can fix almost anything at any OEX (Except la jolla). 5 inch cracks, fist sized holes, busted seams, any of us can fix it easily.

dont use a torch unless you are really comfortable with repairing kayaks, it melts fast. We use a torch for most of the repairs and we're able to fix any brand of kayak

[Ocean-Angler]

a sledghammer, toothbrush, duct tape and 40 ounce beer, and itll be goood to go

or, I bet MacGuyver could do it with 1 toothpick, airvent, and toenail clippers
:sifone: