Just add-ons for the yak...nothing earth shattering...

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P2060015.jpg


I can now use the screw-in pad eye to leash two items.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P2060016.jpg


I use a mesh bag to keep my tackle in when I have the bait tank on the kayak. Fastlane put foam in my yak and it made a barrier around the inside of the hull just above the 8 inch hatch. The mesh bag stays put when I'm on the yak; it doesn't slide around.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P2060022.jpg

Hobie Cup Holder Fix
 

OK class, raise your hands if this has ever happened to you. After a long day of peddling your yak back and forth in a fruitless search, you decide to call it a day and treat yourself to an ice cold beer in celebration of some beautiful time on the water. You pop the cap and set the bottle in the little hull indentation that Hobie calls a cup holder. It's time to head in but always hopeful, you pin one last greenie on and point your bow toward the launch.

All of a sudden it happens. You hook up. Fish on! The kayak rocks back and forth as your fish puts up an epic fight. Eventually, you win the battle. You land the fish, strap it down and smile. It has been a satisfying day. Time to get back to that beer.

You look toward the empty cup holder and then, sadly, spot your empty bottle rolling around the bottom of the kayak. Bummer.

I see hands in the air from just about every Hobie driver. Oh look, there are even a few of the paddle guys with their hands up. Well, I have good news. It does not have to be this way.

For about $1.50 and a couple minutes work, you can turn that useless dent in your hull into a functional cup holder. All you need is a 3" PVC pipe connector and a piece of Velcro.

Clean the pipe connector and the place on your yak where you want to attach the Velcro with some alcohol . Mate the pieces of Velcro together and attach one side to the pipe connector. Peel the tape off the other side of the Velcro and carefully press it in place at the desired location and you are done.

Attachment 3696


Attachment 3697

Sometimes the best ideas are really simple ones.


Bob

great idea... or just buy a bigger beer:cheers1:

Solution 1: Drink your beer faster.:D

Solution 2: Learn how to hold your rod and reel in a 40lb YT at the same time, with ONE hand!:D

Grease Mounting Transducer
 

H-Bird's Answer to What Type of Grease for Transducer Grease Mount
<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff; COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->In additon to Humminbird's video for installation of their Kayk Kir using a grease mount you can go to http://www.yakhawaii.com/index.php?o...ging&Itemid=62 for another video.

But for DIY, according to that link, H-bird support stated that "marine grease" or "axle grease" could be used. Has to resist heat (and preferably is not stinky!). The viscosity of the grease will help hold the transducer in place as will a very snug foam cutout if you DIY.

I plan to make my own foam holder with a grease mount as soon as I recieve my new H-bird FF.

Maybe someone can post a "brand" of grease that has worked well.

I was told by H-bird that the only difference between a transom mount transducer (which is often stock with a FF package) and an in-hull mount transducer when mounted in-hull is that the transom mount tranducer may not read temperatures well. Maybe that is because of the location of the temp sensor inside the puck is different than inside the transom mount transducer?

Hobie battery box
 

I decided to engineer a new box for my outback for the rear 8" hatch since it doesn't get used for anything else. I was using the dry bag method up to now.

All that's needed is a CNC router, Hand held router, table saw, 1/2" and 1/4" ABS plastic, ABS glue and some basic dimensions.

Directions;

For the rounded part; Program the router using master cam, load drawing into CNC machine operating software. Adhere the 1/2" sheet of ABS to the router. Push the go button. Wait a couple minutes, remove plastic from router.

(The round hole in the top serves two purposes; one is to route the power cable, the other is a finger hole to lift it out.)

Cut squared pieces to proper dimensions using the table saw.

Glue it all together with ABS glue. Let sit for 24 hours to cure.

Use the hand router to round off the top edge of the box.

The box should fit any Hobie with 8" round hatches.

The battery I use is a 12 volt, 14AH. Slightly larger than typical but I can run my FF/GPS for about 3 days without a charge if necessary.

If you use a typical battery with the box I made, you can put your keys and wallet in it too.

Hay Kaijuu, being that not everyone here has MC and a CNC or those that do only cut metal, would you consider selling a box or two?

a box or two
 

I suppose anything is possible. You should probably check it out first.

Variations are also manageable in most any material. For the Yak, plastic rules; It doesn't oxidize. Any other ideas that need a build, let me know. I live in Vista but go to Oceanside most days unless rain. I can bring it with me.

P.S. We can also design and build your CNC router, then you wont need me to build a box.

P.S.S. this box can be made using hand tools. A table saw, router, jig saw and a drill.

I have access to all the necessary tooling and machines, but our least expensive CNC runs at $11.00 per minute, yes I typed PER MINUTE. the boss might go ape ca-ca :eek: if I tossed a G job on the floor.
Pm me what you have to offer as far as a router. I have been looking at the Taig Micro mill for some time now but just cant pull the trigger.

i was just about to ask where i can get one???

best to call.
 

Its best just to PM me. Keith

Well after i got tired of seeing all my junk all over the garage, i sat down and doodle some possible way i can store my kayak in the garage. I only could mount the kayak straight on from a perpendicular point since i have one side of the garage for my kayaks to fit. I decided to make a wood frame and use PVC as my rack holders. The first bottom portion is to store all the other junk you have in your garage the second layers is for your fishing bag, batteries then comes the PVC. The top PVC come loose to remove the bottom kayak.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...4/IMGP0082.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...4/IMGP0079.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...4/IMGP0078.jpghttp://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...4/IMGP0076.jpg

I may have to do something like this in my garage. Thanks for sharing.

Battery Box Storage / Tackle box update
 

I've been playing around with the idea of the original battery box. I have since made someone a larger box for his Revos' rear hatch to store both his FF and Live well batteries.

Today I decided to work the large box into a storage/tackle box to fit the middle hatch of my Outback. It's close to 7" deep with a tray that slips inside and sits at the top. The tray slips in and out easily. Figured I would put small terminal tackle in the tray and the larger stuff inside the larger compartment at the lower end. Still working things out. I guess now I'll have to do the Sea trials.

One thing I'm unsure of is if the ABS is going to react with my plastic swim-baits. I remember the old plastic worms would melt some of the plastics used in tackle boxes and trays.

My kayak Hoopnet
 

I originally posted this in back in 2006 on another board, but I was going through some archives, and found it again so I thought I'd re-post it here.

So....Here it is...my kayak hoopnet....

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3014/bug8xa6.jpg

The nets one of my designs: essentually a redesign of this net I made in 2005 using the same netting:

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/306/lite112ea.jpg

It was a "working" prototype that I'd been playing with for while, but I had some issues with it. The first net had too big of an opening which produced too much drag in the water.

Th newer one has the same size opening as a Danielson cone but the top ring is an inch and a half higher, and the base is only 28 inches across vrs 34 inches on the Danielson net and 36 inches on the Promar net.

Since the base is smaller it has a lot less drag coming up through the water. It pulls easier and faster then either the Promar or the Danielson net.

Like the Promar cone, my net folds down for flat storage.
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/3845/net1lh1.jpg

I don't know how theirs work as I never owned one but my design has three pieces of pivoting 1/2 inch tubing that that turn on the 1/4 inch stainless hoop ring. The bridle is made from three lengths of 250 pound Mono leader. It runs down through the tube legs and it's tied to the Bottom 3/8 hoop.

Basically to get the hoop to stand up and pull into shape you just have to pull up on the bridle.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9312/net2cg9.jpg

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/7973/net3bu6.jpg

Once it's up you just have to make sure the knots go up into the legs and it's ready to use.

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/747/net4op7.jpg

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/1368/net5ya8.jpg

I've pretty much got this one worked out.

It's a great net. It sinks like a stone, pulls easy as Promars original smaller flat nets, and catches more bugs then they do.

From playing around I've pretty much figured out that the crucial distance in a cone net is not the diameter but the entrance or top rings distance and height ratio to the bug.

Most bugs are lost one of two ways in a basket style net.

Either the bug flips over the ring before it gets high enough to block his initial jump or climbs out on the way up.

So the advantage of larger Basket style net compared to a smaller one is the ring edge is simply further from the bug at the start of the pull.

Conical nets do not have the same constraints

With a conical net the top ring is already above the bug: the idea being it is it's high enough to make it hard for the bug to intially flip out.

It's all about exit angle.

When the exit angle is too steep for the bug to make on his first flip he undershoots the exit and ends up stuck backwards against the net wall or downward facing side. If he keeps flipping he just drives himself deeper into the net.


The crucial distance is then not base diameter on a conical net but the entrance ring distance and height ratio to the bug.

I can't figure out why the net manufacturer's have not figured that out but even the new Promars are much larger at the base which makes them harder to pull.


Here's the old style cone geometry compared to my new net:

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5919/1qb5.jpg

The larger the top ring diameter or the lower the ring, the better the angle is for swimming out. So the trick is to have a relatively small opening high enough above the bugs head that he can't make the angle when he tries to kick out.

I've not used the Promars cones at all but I have a few Danielson conical nets.

The D cones are made like traps. I think the guys who designed them thought that lobsters would climb in, feed, then not be able to find their way out. I don't believe that at all..... . Crabs...maybe.... but not lobsters.

I've watched bugs feed in my Danielson nets with my IR Infrared camera and once they feed they get out fast.

The Danielson nets work great but my three gripes are.....

One: I think the top ring is too low and that bigger bugs sit on top and feed without getting in the net . Two: they hard to pull because they are too big and too heavy. Three they take up a lot of room in a boat and are impossible to carry on a kayak.

The plus side you don't have to pull them that fast because once you have a bug in them it's very hard for them to get out.

I have not used the larger Promars but I can tell just by looking they are an improvement in two ways. One the top ring is too high for bugs to perch on and feed and two: they fold for storage.

Still they are huge, heavy and I bet they are a biiiiittttch to pull. :D

One thing for certain: Now that Promars come out with a two cone nets and the DFG has OKd them there is no doubt that cone nets are here to stay. http://www.allcoast.com/discussion/images/wink.gif

Cones are ideal for kayak because it's hard to pull as fast when your sitting down. Unfortunately the current ones commercially available are probably a little harder to pull then they need to be.

Here's one more pic a standard D cone on top of my cone.

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8652/net6kw3.jpg

You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out why mine pulls easier, and with it's higher ring it should catch more and larger bugs.


I have no plans to market these nets right now but they could be marketed. I think it's pretty much the ideal net for Kayaking.

Seems to work so far for me:

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/9858/bug6bh4.jpg

...and your welcome to make your own.

Tight lines, Jim

Hey Jim,

The DFG is providing two operative definitions of a legal hoop net,
in order to accommodate the gear configurations that are currently in use
by the public. The definitions will include the traditional style hoop net that

lies flat on the ocean floor as well as the new style hoop net that has the
second smaller ring that is held above the ocean floor.

Is it legal to modify these two types of nets? I can't find any info were it
says you can or can't.

Any time you do something like this you have to look at the regs.

I made my nets before they made the new regs, but I have been told that these nets of mine fall under the current guidelines for cone nets. I kinda lucked out because they are my favorites and my most successful design

I actually have several other designs that I imagine are now no longer legal, as they were flat nets with additional rings that pull up in the shape of cones.

It's my understanding that anyone can make thier own nets or modify nets, but any nets you actually put in the water must conform to the size and configuration guidelines put out by the DFG.

The only issue I could of had with these nets is the size and height of the top ring, since my top ring was the same size as a Danielson cone in diameter, and around the same the same height as the top ring of the Promar eclipse nets. my nets are within the legal dimensions the DFG created around both those production nets.

Bottom line though is you can make your own hoopnets.

Jim

The new promar eclipse was approved by the DFG becase its spec's were
similar to the old traditional hoop.

Have you cheked with the DFG about modifcation/configuations/mechanisms of your new hoop net? Might be worth checking just to be sure.

http://www.promarnets.com/Media/Arti...-10/P1-P14.pdf

Don't forget, that you don't want to violate the new soak limit!:eek: :doh:





Nice nets Jim!

Actually I appreciate your concern but it's unnecessary.

It's not a big deal but I think you have some basic misconceptions. First off the original hoopnets were all flat two ring nets made for the sail powered commercial crab fishery in San Francisco bay. They predate the use of traps back to the 1800s.

The Danielson cone nets are a more modern net designed for dungeness crab, but built for the rec crab fishery with a rigged structure more like a trap, then a traditional hoop.

When Guys started using them for lobster down here there was a big shakeup. Some in the DFG said they were illegal for lobster, some guys got tickets for using them, and the official word was that they essentually were traps. The deal was the regs did not have a clear definition of what a hoopnet was so legally there was a loophole and for a while it was pretty much anything goes.

The DFG siad they were going to remake the regs, and part of it would state that all hoopnets had to be flat nets. That they had to lie flat on the bottom, and be under 36 inches in diameter. Since it was obvious that cone nets did not lie flat they were going to be illegal for lobster, but still legal for crab. That said cones had some advantages, so some of us started playing with alternative flat nets, that had cone properties.

Here's one of mine from back then.
http://img863.imageshack.us/img863/8878/hoop.jpg

That extra expandable ring caused the net lay flat with the bait cage centered, but also when pulled changed the net to a cone shape. The idea being if nets just had to lie flat that net would be legal but it also functioned like a cone net. I used those nets for one season and they worked great, but had a lot of drag in the water. Though legal back when I made them, it's my understanding that they would now be illegal because it has too many rings according to the new regs.

Promar in anticipation of the Flat net reg held back on making conical nets and instead introduced the larger 36 inch flat nets to get a jump on Danielson, who was only making 32's. For a while 36 flat nets were the hot item, in anticipation of the reg change, but they are dogs to pull, and some of us switched to motorized pullers. (I made my own) Bottom line we were all trying to figure out how to legally maximize our catches, and wanted to know what the new regs would be so we could build nets to fit them in anticipation of their arrival.

The rub for Promar though was the DFG did not change the regs, but stalled out on it, and started talking about doing a study. That put Promar in a bind. Danielson was making a cone net, legally selling it, it was getting popular, the DFG quit writing citations, so Promar needed to compete, or they were going to loose some of their business.

Now I don't know what Promar officially says but after waiting for a few years for the DFG to act on the flat net regs Promar in my opinion just had enough and they made a even bigger cone net the eclipse net to essentually challenge the law.

Like Promar I had held back on making a cone net for years because I'd heard they were going to be illegal but when I heard about the Promar eclipse going into production I was like screw this I'm going to make my own cones as well.

At the time I just started kayak hooping, so I started playing around with a low drag kayak friendly cone hoop design. I had a friend in the DFG who warned me against doing it, because he said they still were considering a reg change, but I figured WTF I could use them for a season or two, and since the DFG would either have to outlaw cones altogether, or that they would have to permit both production cone nets to keep being made, that if I built my nets with net specs that lay right smack between the two production cones, I could maximize the chance that my nets would still be legal when and if the DFG finally did actually change the regs.

Of course if I was wrong I'd of just changed the nets, or scrapped them, I mean I have maybe six net designs around here, some in full sets, but the day the DFG came up with the new regs I got a call from someone closely involved in the process and they assured me that my nets were still going to be legal. So it worked, and you could say I have checked, or do have confirmation that my nets are legal.

Bottom line you can build your own nets as long as they fit the specifications spelled out by the DFG, and my nets fit those specs even though they are easier to pull from a kayak then the current D and PM designs.

Jim

Truck rack
 

While checking out some other yak forums, I came across this unique idea on loading and unloading on a Ute down under. It has a flip down rear rack with a roller. Check it out
http://yakass.net/forum/yakkity-yak/...anagement-mods

I got this idea from yakass...I like switching the hatch to open on the side because it allows me to keep pedalling while looking for things in the hatch. I though it might be a safety mod as well. If the Hobie ever swamps, I could still pump the kayak while pedalling to safety. In the original way, you could never pedal the kayak with the hatch open....The switch is really easy to do and you could change it back if you don't like it...


Before the change...

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...7/P2270007.jpg

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...7/P2270008.jpg


The hatch lid hits the water bottle, so it does not fully open. Another negative is you have to move the mirage bungee every time you open and close the lid.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P3300007.jpg

http://i620.pho%3C/i%3Etobucket.com/...g/P3300007.jpg

Wet Mount Install
 

Well, I couldn't make it out this weekend, so with the little time I had, I finally installed the fishfinder.

I took a Sterilite waterproof container from Target...cut the bottom off and shaped it to the contour of the bottom of kayak. Rough sand, cleaned, then sealed with goop. Then I cut a hole for the transducer wire through the lid and scored it so the big connector to the unit would fit through then gooped that. I also added 2 rubber spacers 1/4", so the transducer would be inline with the bottom of kayak. Let everything dry and filled it with h20....no leaks...even when I flipped it upside down.

http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/h2obase.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/h2obase2.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/transducer1.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/transducer3.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/transducer2.JPG

Then I took an extra rod tube and riveted 2 'L' brackets to mount the head unit bracket. I drilled/dremeled a hole big enough to fit the wire fitting through it and ran the wire from the unit through the tube.

http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/wiring1.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/wiring3.JPG


Buttoned everything down with zip ties (2) to the sail mount post. I added a quick connect to the battery

http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/unit4.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/complete.JPG
http://www.shophotography.com/kayak/complete2.JPG
Here is a few shots of the final install.

Big thanks to everyone on this site for sharing their innovations...most of what I did was taken from earlier posts but with a few modifications of my own. I will re-post when I get a chance to take it for a trial run. Thanks Iceman for the supplies needed to get this done...If anyone needs 3" and 4" clear tubing, I have some in 6" lenghts....I was planning on using the clear tubing, but this transducer is huge and would not fit...

:luxhello::luxhello::luxhello:

Now if I can catch some....:wsb:

Makeshift rulers are not a new concept I'm sure but I found that the little dimples on Malibu hatches line up pretty good and can serve as a nice ballpark ruler. I painted some of the dots, 1 dot (11"), 2 dot (12"), etc. Nice for a quick OTW measure for a legal bass and beyond. My hatch is good up to 15 1/2".

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...y/161ecb40.jpg

Just bring a tape for the bigger ones :)
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...y/927315c2.jpg

nice job. but let us know how the placement works out for you on the transponder. usually it is placed in front of the peddles in the front hatch. i read somewhere that the turbulence from the peddles interrupts the transponder reading.
also what type of lowrance did you mount?

I got the Lowrance HDS 5 with nautic chart. I have my dad's outback setup with the transducer at the same location with a Hummingbird and have not had an issue with the turbulence. That one is mounted directly with goop to the hull. If the wet mount works well, I'm thinking about redoing the HB to a wet mount. If it doesn't work for my HDS, then all I have to do is get a bottom and glue one down towards the front and use the back one for dry storage. I tried to make this unit portable, so I can use it on different kayaks...all I need is the bottom and I can move the entire unit from yak to yak.

I'm hopefully going to be able to make it out this sunday, so I will post the results then.

hobie bait tank switch
 

well i finally got tired with fiddling with my bait tank switch. i was in san diego this past weekend and got a chance to stop by west marine. i picked up a new switch a plasticized on/off toggle switch with a rubber boot. i picked this one since it had a rubber boot and hopefully it will keep the water from seeping into the wiring.

first i removed the old switch. simply turn the knob with adjustable pliers and it will unscrew and come off. do the same with the nut.
i had to make the hole bigger on the bait tank to accomodate the new toggle switch. i ended up using a 31/64 bit. then i adjusted the length of the wires and soldered the ends and also used heat shrink. i am not sure if it is marine grade heat shrink so i also used marine goop.
once the connections were soldered and the goop was dry i installed the toggle switch to the bait tank. after i had tightened it down, i also applied some goop to the outside of the toggle switch before i attached the rubber boot. i ended up placing the toggle switch "on" position facing down and toggle switch "off" facing up. i had noticed that when i had the old switch my elbow would knock into it and turn it off. i am hoping that with the switch "on" position facing down that i won't have this issue any more.

the last pictures shows my intake tube. i heard from others that they had experienced theirs getting clogged. i had placed some wire screen into mine. i used the ones from the 99 cent stores that you would buy to use in your bathroom sinks at home. just worked my fingers to push out and form a nice shape that would just fit into the intake. then used a stick to push it into the bottom of the intake. after each time coming back i rinse water thru the tube and also spray wd-40 onto the screen. it has helped from it rusting out so fast. hope that this makes sense to you guys. if you need more details let me know.

Nice switch upgrade. I am not sure if it will last any longer than the stock Hobie switch but you have probably solved the problem of turning off the pump with an inadvertent elbow bump.

In my experience, the screens on the intake tube only help a little. Sometimes they make things worse if there is a lot of slime in the water that gets caked on the intake. I got rid of my screen and and installed a bit of flexible tubing to the output end of the pump inside the tank, (see an earlier post in this thread). When my pump gets clogged I insert a small piece of sprinkler riser into the tubing and blow some air into the system. Whatever is clogging the intake gets dislodged and the unit starts working again.

It works great.

Bob

Went out to LJ on sunday and the fish finder worked perfectly. I didn't have any issues with "turbulance" from the fins.

Got all my settings dialed in and metered some fish, but they didn't want to cooperate :mad:


Till next time...:sifone:

me too
:) :)



__________________
watch movies online for free

Nice thread,http://freeimagestocks.com/content/69/grey.pnggood for the informations.

I love it :D

ocean kayak ff mount mod..(echo..echo..echo)
 

Just in case anyone out there rides one of these awesome fishing machines here ya go..

Basically its an extending arm mount for a fishfinder. It is completely watertight and mounted in the back of the sonar compartment on Ocean Kayaks. I found that ff screens are easier to read up close and that they dont like being flopped on by fish!

All the cables are mounted through the shaft of the extending portion.

The internal housing consist of a sealed, straight flush mount rod holder.
The tube rests on top of the battery bag.
The tube extends down at an angle but does not contact the hull or Fishing rods that may be stored inside it.
Easily tucks in with one hand while fighting fish with the other.



http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com...ach=7283;image

pics
 

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com...ach=4721;image

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com...ach=4720;image

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com...ach=4719;image

Hope this helps...somebody?

This not really an innovation, it's cheap and keeps things real simple and functional.

All that's needed is black Sharpie marker and tape measure. Makes for easy fish measuring.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3194/...04fd1467_z.jpg

I'm right handed so I just put the measurements on the right hand side. I might ad the measurements lines on the other side of the Xfactor as well.

These are just some things I've seen and read about on this site and others. Lots of cool innovations for sure. I wish I could have contributed some of my own ideas, but I'm just not one of the creative type. Anyhow I hope these photos can help others out as past images and instructions have helped me out.

Bait tank battery box mounted directly onto the crate with zip ties. I drilled out two holes for each zip tie on the inside of the box (a total of four zip ties were used), once the zip ties were through the battery box and tight to the box I added marine goop to keep the water from entering through the holes.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/...dd89c7bd_b.jpg

I'm using this type of deck connector from the bait pump to the battery box. It seem like it could come unplugged really easy but we'll just wait and see how it works out.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2272/...283d6b3a_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/...2c866ef8_b.jpg

The other side of the battery box has a toggle switch for turning the power on and off as needed.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3017/...d167f2d2_b.jpg

ABS pipe cut to about twelve inches and then zip tied to the crate. The small cord is for tying down the rods just in case I roll while out on the water, so hopefully I will not loose any of my gear.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3647/...247ca6fb_b.jpg

On the Vittles Vault bait tank I drilled some small drain holes, these work perfect with the Rule 360 bilge/bait pump and a 6v 7ah battery with the Mojo timer set at a fifteen seconds on and fifteen seconds off cycle.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3338/...8f833380_b.jpg

On the lid of the bait tank I drilled out a small hole to put the cord through so that I will not accidentally loose the lid while on the water or land for that matter.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2127/...8a930f2a_b.jpg

This just a small knot tied on the inside of the lid, simple yet effective.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3044/...a5ec03d9_b.jpg

Thanks for the great ideas guys!

Yard Sales
 

Well being the professional yard sales man that i am.

I started thinking of new ways to stow my gear on my X-factor when i am launching and landing.



http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...ix84/photo.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...x84/photo2.jpg



After i got tired of my transducer falling off while carrying it upside down i made my transducer act exactly like a rudder i even attached a pull string to come up when landing and launching.



http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...x84/photo4.jpg


http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...x84/photo6.jpg

Cool. I like the under hatch stowage area. I am your apprentice in landing yard sales.
Where do you get the bungie strings?

You get it by the foot from. Andy at oex or oex in San diego

i like how you have a deployment system for the transducer.
it looks great, but most people say that you would want the transducer up front rather than in the back. this way it would show the fish that you are going over rather the fish that you already had passed???? unless of course if they are coming from behind you.....