Hi Jeff,

"In theory", you should get better performance with the wet mount. I am not aware of anyone actually doing before and after tests but it makes sense if you can get rid of the bubbles that commonly form in Goop installations, things should work better.

As for how your existing transducer is currently mounted, if your transducer is glued in place with some clear silicon, it is probably a Goop installation. You can remove the transducer by carefully sliding a knife or other sharp tool under the unit until it eventually breaks away from the hull. You will then have to shave away all the Goop, eliminating any bubbles that may have formed.

As for where the transducer should be mounted, I doubt that it makes much of a difference in a kayak but I prefer having it mounted near the bow so the fish finder will display what I am approaching rather than what I have already passed.

If you have more questions about the wet transducer installation, visit this thread where it is discussed is more detail.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=6508

Bob

FF transducer wet mount
 

Bob's (DSAFETY) very slick transducer mount really got my attention: http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=6508

Even though I had pretty good results with Gooped transducers, I've been thinking about doing a wet mount for quite some time. Seeing Bob's elegant and simple mount made me want to give it a try. As luck would have it, I had just recently purchased a Stealth 14 and it gave me a chance to try out a wet mount. There were only two problems: 1) I have a Lowrance FF and the transducer is absolutely ginourmous, 2) I don't have the engineering/fabrication skills of Bob. With these two handicaps I launched headlong into my project.

I wish that Lowrance would make a smaller dual frequency transducer. The skimmer transducer that came with my Lowrance 527 FF/GPS is about the size and shape of an ironing board. It won't fit in a 3" PVC pipe. It won't even fit in the 4" ABS coupler that I ran out and bought before measuring the transducer. I had to use a little of my smarts and innovative thinking to come up with a solution. Unfortunately, I was a little short of smarts and innovation this week, so this is what I came up with.

I figured that it would be really cool to be able to see the water in the transducer well. After all, you have to know how much water is in there and if it's turning green. My solution; Lexan. That's right; Lexan. Why use a box that you find in your parts bin when you can spend two days building the damn thing.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegall...01_Medium_.jpg

Its a little bit on the clunky side. Not very elegant or clean looking, but it has transparent sides (until the algae turns it a murky green). Kinda looks like my old erector set that I had when I was 9.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegall...04_Medium_.jpg

Like a vintage Soviet tank, this thing is ugly, but strong. Aluminum angle on the corners, plenty of Goop and bolts-bolts everywhere.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegall...06_Medium_.jpg

It actually looks pretty badass in that photo. Kind of like the Enterprise in the space dock. Trust me; Scotty didn't build this monstrosity.....more like one of the dorks in the red shirt who gets whacked when he beams down to the planet surface.

I couldn't trust this install to Goop. I used 3M 5200 to attach it to the hull (CJ recommended this). I roughed up the hull with coarse-grit sandpaper first, to get better adhesion.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegall...08_Medium_.jpg

We'll see if it is still attached when I open it up in the morning.

BTW: That is a fill plug on the forward end. I will be sealing the cable pass-through with a rubber bung and Gooping it into place.

pretty cool, but it looks like to much work.
 

I have the same wet mount transducer bob has works fine
yours is cool to, I like translucent container you used for your project. Allows you to if the transducer is paralell with the bottom of the hull.

Now that's the spirit of innovation. Two days in the shop gets you out of a lot of honey-dos.

I like the idea of the well being clear so you can check the water level. The last time I went out, my Humminbird Matrix 12 started acting up. I ended up having to shimmy up to the bow, pull out my trusty Swiss Army Knife and pop the top off of my unit made of ABS to make sure that it was still full of water. (It was.) Having a well made of some clear material would have made that step unnecessary. I wonder if there is a source for clear plastic pipe in 3 or 4 inch diameters?

A couple observations. It has been a while since I worked with Lexan but if memory serves, this material can be easily welded using acetone. Assuming the weld works, (you could goop the corners as well), that would eliminate the need for all the metal braces. Of course then the thing would not look as cool.

Also, I like the portability that being able to detach the transducer from the well using a rubber cap provides. Does your design offer a way to do this?

Finally, I do believe that the Lowrance transducer can be made to fit into a 4" piece of ABS pipe. The 3" one that works for Humminbird is too small. Cali Hookup and I collaborated on a version of my design to fit his Lowrance unit. We got it to work although it just barely fit.

Nice work Doug.

Bob

I use a factory wet mount from Garmin. It recommends using mineral oil in the well but I use fresh water and it works fine. I've considered putting saltwater in to see if I get better readings but never got around to it. I get good readings to about 700 ft. I remove the heavy transducer when transporting the yak upside down. This model allows you to install on a surface not level to the bottom and then adjust the transducer so that it is level.

Garmin - Garmin 200/50KHz, 12/45deg, Plastic, Adj. In-hull Mount Transducer 010-10327-00

Installed 2006, still no leaks.
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegall...0/P2052390.JPG

I was sloppy with the 3M 5200, but the bottom of the well is clean so that it is only shooting through water and the yak's plastic.
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwegall...0/P2052391.JPG

I didn't know about the acetone. See; you learn something new everyday. It might have looked a little better without all the angle; however, if my childhood hobby of making plastic models taught me anything, it is that I suck at making models. I always ended up with model glue all over the seams and fingerprints permanently etched everywhere. The Lexan box would probably have looked no better than the Monogram 1/48th scale B-17 that I F'd up when I was in seventh grade.

Quickly detach the transducer......no. This baby is about as permanent as the top three floors of the Sunroad building in Kearny Mesa. If I have to move it I'm going to need a pry bar and some explosives.

I think I might have been able to get the transducer in the 4" coupler if I had really tried. I gave up on it because I thought it would be too much work. Instead, I spent two days working on this. THINKING.....now there's my problem.

I'm going to scrap this thing if it doesn't give me perfect performance the first time out. I'll just go back to the tried and true Goop. I would love to get one of those through-hull transducers, but all of the ones that work with my FF are ungodly expensive. If they didn't cost $800, I would just get a bronze thru-hull with a fairing.

Fahq me, you guys need to quit coming up with this McGyver sheeeet. Now, I want to rip out my "NEW" wet mount trans (haven't even put mine in the water yet!) and install a transparent giz-mo out of plexiglass. All and all, way too cool of a set up.

BTW I have the same ginormous Lowrance transducer as you and it did fit well into the 4 in ABS adapter. I'll post some pic's of mine shortly. The only GOAT &^%$ about the 4in adapter vs the 3in adapter is the stiffness of the cap in 4in. I am concerned that after time, from checking the level of water and having to shimmy the cap off for inspection, the adapter seal may come loose from the hull.

I agree. Lets put the word out and try to find a source for clear 3 and 4" pipe. If we can find that material we get the best of both worlds. With a clear well we would be able to easily check the water level while retaining the ability to have the transducer removable and therefore portable.

Bob

Hello...first time post here. Was sent from another forum to check out this very post. Here is a great resource for all kinds of parts and I did find Clear pipe and fittings.

The PVC pipe is expensive but if you have enough people who wanted it maybe you could split it up... http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-pip...d-pipe/=5ouetf

Just click the picture of the pipe to see the sizes available...1/4 - 6"

Here is another one, but acrylic. This is cheaper...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#acrylic-pipe/=5oukom

Okay, I think I uploaded my pic's correctly for the 4in wet transducer. My only regret in the overall install was the fact that the adapter is as large the Javelin Anti-Armour round and would not fit under the useless rear hatch. I think that would be the perfect spot for Attachment 1956Attachment 1957Attachment 1958Attachment 1959 the transducer.

Very nice. Now I see where I went wrong. The coupler I had was too long. If the MacGyver fish tank doesn't work I'll have a backup. Thanks

and......

Go Navy - Beat Army :)

Im a little slow...ya know, LA Unified educated but just got it! There's always next year...we did at least beat you in sailing. Go figure!

Rodholder Mod
 

About two years ago, I bought a Hobie Revolution and joined the yakfisher community. The Revo is a very well designed kayak but it is not without its flaws. One of the biggest issues I had with my boat from the beginning was the placement of the molded rod holders. They are too far to the stern to be very useful to me. My solution to this problem at the time was to build a “trolling bar” which gave me the ability to place two rods in a more accessible location and at an angle that is more suitable for trolling than the stock setup. You can see this device below.

Attachment 2000

This trolling bar served me well until I picked up a Hobie Livewell a few months ago. While I could use the trolling bar with this bait tank, the supporting cross bar got in the way of the tank lid so it could not be opened all the way. I had wanted to update the trolling bar design for some time so this gave me the incentive to head to the shop and get to work.


The goal was to design something that could be inserted into the molded rod holders and create a readily accessible, sturdy rod storage/trolling apparatus. The device would have to be easily installed and removed. The most important design objective was to move the rod holder positioning forward so that the rods could be easily reached without having to twist sideways while seated in the yak. A bonus goal was to make the angle of the rod holder adjustable from straight up for storage to about 60 degrees out for trolling.


I think I nailed it!

Attachment 2001


Below you will see the various pieces of PVC and ABS components prior to assembly. The total cost of the parts needed to build one of these is less than $10.

Attachment 2002


Because my 2008 Revo has the rudder raising and lowering lever mounted on the starboard side next to the seat, I had to make two versions of this device which I call the inboard and outboard versions. The inboard design is well braced against the kayak so it may be a little sturdier. On the other hand this design takes up some space in the bait tank well, so on some narrow kayaks the outboard design may be a better choice. The newer Hobies no longer use a rudder lever so both versions will work on either side of the latest Hobie yaks. The photo below shows both versions installed with the rod holders in the trolling position.

Attachment 2003

Assembly is easy. Start by cutting a piece of 1.25” PVC pipe just long enough to fit into the molded rod holder. Wrap this pipe with duct tape until the pipe fits snugly into the rod holder, (I use Gorilla Tape because it is very tough). Place a 1.25” to 1.5” slip adapter over the end of the pipe. (DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING YET!)

Next fit a 1.5" sink trap assembly over the adapter. There are two versions of sink traps. One you glue together, the other has an integrated tightening collar that holds the two pieces together. Both will work for this project. I used the glue together version because it was cheaper.

The next piece to go on is a 60 degree elbow. This will be attached to the sink trap on one end, and to a 1.5” slip/thread adapter on the other with short pieces of 1.5” ABS pipe. The length of these pieces of pipe will be determined by the type of kayak you have and where you want the rod holder to be. The longer these pieces are the further forward the rod holder will end up. After some experimenting, I found that the best place for the rod holder to be, for my usage, is an inch or two behind the back of the kayak seat. This is about a foot forward of the stock rod holder position but still far enough back so it will not interfere with paddling. One of the reasons for not gluing anything right away is that there are many adjustments you can make in terms of length and angles. If you want the rod holder to end up further forward that what I did, just use a longer piece of connecting pipe.

If you want to always have your rod holder in the same angle position, you will not need to use the male and female threaded adapters that go on next. Just attach a 90 degree elbow to the 60 degree elbow from the last step. For the adjustable version, mate a male and female threaded adapter to the two elbows. Tighten these adapters so they are almost all the way in but still have enough travel to allow you to tighten or loosen in order to position the rod holder where you want it to be.

Finally, cut a 10” to 12” piece of 1.5” ABS pipe and fit it in the 90 degree elbow. I cut the top at an angle to make it easier to insert the rod butt but this is optional. When all the pieces are attached together, insert the PVC pipe into the kayak’s rod holder. Twist and turn the various components until you are happy with the positioning of all the pieces. You want the device to fit easily into the molded rod holder and at some point near the other end, make contact with the kayak. This will be the anchor point where you will eventually strap the device to the kayak.

Attachment 2004

My instructions may sound a little complicated but they will all make perfect sense when you have the pieces in your hands and start putting things together. When you are happy with the way everything fits, put some alignment marks on all the connecting pieces so you can reproduce the angles and connections. Double check everything again and then glue the pieces together.

The last steps are done after all the pieces have been glued together. You will need to find a way strap the installed device to your kayak at the point that it touches the deck near the new rod holder end. I first used a Velcro strap that had been threaded through a nylon eyelet that I riveted to the kayak in a suitable place. This works but I am looking for a stronger strap that can be tightened more than the Velcro will allow. One of those ratchet buckles from a ski boot or snowboard binding would be perfect. When I find one, I will give this a try. You can also use a belt, a piece of rope or even a zip tie which would have to be cut off when you want to remove this device.

The last step is to set the angles of the rod holder. With the unit installed, twist the rod holder end to a vertical position. Drill a small hole through both pieces of the threaded adapter and insert a pin in the hole to lock the rod holder in this position. Remove the pin; reposition the rod holder at the angle or angles that you would like to use for trolling and drill additional holes, using the first hole as a pilot hole. Make sure the pin fits in these positions and you are done.

Although I designed this device to be used on a Revo, this design can easily be adapted to work on just about any kayak with molded rod holders located behind the seat. I have tested this setup on the water and it works great. I have much better access to my bait tank than with the trolling bar and can easily monitor the rod tips while trolling without having to twist and contort myself from side to side. I also gain two handy storage locations for rods or a gaff. After the maiden voyage, I added a couple of eyelets to each of these units to serve as attachment points for gear leashes.

The first one of these things that I built took hours of trial and error. The second one took less than ten minutes to build. I think that this thing may be one of the most useful mods I have come up with so far. What do you think?

Bob

How did it work? I am working on the contour for my wet mount tonight. Did the contour of the bottom allow for a good reading with your unit?

FF Battery box
 

Heres something I recently put together to keep my battery box from sliding around.
I gooped some of that stuff you line your drawers with to the bottom of the box for grip.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...IMG_1024-1.jpg
After I figured out where I wanted the box to sit, I roughed up the bottom of 2 pad eye's and the inside of the hull. I gooped a pad eye on each side of where the box will be situated........Yes, gooped. It's actually quite strong.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...k/IMG_1027.jpg
I sized up a piece of 1/4" bungee cord and put a open hook on each end. I tried the other type of hook with the locking tab and they are damn near impossible to unhook.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...k/IMG_1033.jpg
Tadaaaa, it sits in there nice and tight. http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...tback/pimp.gif
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...k/IMG_1034.jpg

I'm loving all these ideas. So far they have saved me a lot of money. I am making my own leashes for rods, paddle, and anything else that needs to be lashed to the Yak.

Has anyone tried putting grease in the wet mount like they have for the hummingbird 385 kayak setup?

not yet, but it makes sense

I have never played with the grease. I would have two concerns. Does the grease transmit as well as water? More importantly, does the grease flow when it gets warm?

I store my kayak upside down so if the well were partially filled with grease and flowed to the lid while in storage there could be some issues when the yak is flipped over if all the grease is stuck to the lid of the well.

I suppose you could completely fill the well with grease but why do that if water works?

Bob

never used grease.....i vote water. i made a version of bob's wet mount and love it. it has worked very well and you never will have to worry about the mess you could have. i have the 2010 570 hummingbird. i have been out on 3 full day trips and love my readings.

water = no bubbles......grease i am not sure about.

plus++++++ water is free!

Hobie Adventure Mods
 

The wellnuts/screws on a Hobie Adventure can easily be used as mounting points. I used the ones near the front hatch to fasten a polycarbonate shelf for my fishfinder base. When I changed from a Humminbird to Garmin, no big deal; I just drilled new holes. Polycarbonate is very strong and will not crack like acrylic.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ntingShelf.jpg

I made aluminum mounting plates for the ones behind the seat. These are used to support the pvc rodholder I made. The plate provides front-to-back stability while the V construction provides side-to-side stability. Other features that I like of this rodholders design is that they are angled at about 45 degrees, they have a low center of gravity, the mass is kept close to the centerline of the kayak, and the rods are within easy reach.

In addition, they point slightly forward or back, depending upon which direction they are mounted. When pointed forward, the tips of the rods can be seen without much effort.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...olders-FWD.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...olders-BCK.jpg

I also built some extension tubes for the builtin rodholders. I use these for my bass rods. Electrician tape wrapped over one layer of corktape on 1 1/4" pvc creates a snug fit. Instead of using lanyards to secure the rods, the bungies are looped over the reel handles.

Very cool Fongman. I really like the bungee loops on the rod holders. I will be adding them to all of my rod holders. What a great idea.

Can you post a photo that details that design? What did you use to attach the bungee cord together to make the loop?

Bob

Bob,

Those are pre-made for tarps. You can get them at any DIY store. I just shortened the ones on the extenders and slipped a 1" piece of plastic tubing over it so I could attach the zip tie.

ill have to try some of your ideas

My vote goes to Jim....

Leak
 

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My fear of separation of the wet transducer, 4in PVC pipe and hull came true. I don’t know if it was from loading and unloading on the truck, the beach landing at LJ the other day, or the constant hull movement from my peddles, but regardless, when I went out on Sunday it was dry. When I added water it leaked immediately. While I think the wet transducer is a neat set up, I think I am going back to the thru-hull-goop method. I am not totally convinced the image quality of a wet mount is that much better than the 'shoot through' system. It’s definitely more of a hassle and you have to be cognizant of the damn pipe when loading up.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
I might try installing the transducer through the rear hatch vs. in the front hatch.....any thoughts???<o:p></o:p>

I had the same problem last week after a particularly brutal launch attempt. I removed my well and reinstalled it, this time putting a 3/4" wide thin coat of goop installed like caulk on the outside of the well. I doubt there will be any future leaks.

Bob

A simple transducer solution
 

I also tried the wet install using a rectangular walmart brand drybox. Worked great the first time but on the second trip the rough launch knocked around some items in my front hatch and the goop failed. No water = no finder that day.

I copied an idea from the darkhorse but mine uses the factory transom mount to attach the transducer to the sail mast on my revolution and all it does is sit flush to the hull. I add maybe a cup of water in the hull and voila. The zip ties are snug but not impossible to move and re-position. They can be swapped out in a second and it is difficult for anything to bang into it and cause it to shift. Worst case scenario, you slide forward and readjust. It picked up a signal instantaneously and never lost the bottom even through the 15 knot winds on Sunday PM. That area of the revo is a natural low spot and doesn't need much water to perform perfectly.

I really like that the transducer sits behind the mast and doesn't come into direct contact with other items in the front hatch.

I never had a good reading with two different goop installations.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/o...ansducer_1.jpg

I did not add the factory lock washers on the main bolt/cotter pin that holds the transducer to the transom mount so that gravity will naturally hold the transducer flush with the hull.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/o...ansducer_2.jpg

If you really want it permanent, buy a clamp that will fit on the other side of the sail mast and clamp it in position.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/o...ansducer_3.jpg

Thats cool. I will give it a shot. Maybe I can fabricate a clamp??

a rod clamp might work??? But seriously, I don't think you need anything more than the zip ties. Just check before launching and have a few spares with you.

Only a cup of water? Doesn't the water end up under the seat? I always thought the bottom of the transducer had to be submerged in goop or water to allow the signals to pass thru the hull. If that isn't the case, why bother with the goop?

I re-read your post....are you say you toss into the boat a cup of water? Why? doesn't the transducer below the waterline? Help me out here. I like the set up!

Can you get a decent reading without having water in the bottom of the hull? If so, this might be a really good way to go.

As a practical matter, most kayaks usually have a little water splashing around, at least mine does. If the transducer is mounted in a space where it is in the lowest part of the hull you should always have some water surrounding the unit. If the transducer is secured tightly to the hull, I suspect that not much water would be needed to make the thing work.

If the lowest place in the boat is not by something you can attach to such as the mast in your example, there is another easy way to strap a transducer to the hull so you can position it just about anywhere. I did this to secure my battery case below the rear hatch in my Revo.

Just take two plastic eyelets, (OEX has them), and goop them to the hull on either side of whatever you want to strap down. After the glue has cured, run some webbing with a cinch buckle through the eyelets and strap down the unit. You could also use some bungee material.

Bob

Trust me it works. I doubt Josh P. would use this method with his high end finder if it didn't.

You need some water touching the transducer, but not alot. My boat, knock on wood, is pretty dry, so I add a cup or so once I'm ready to turn it on.

I can't speak for other yaks, but with the Hobie revolution the sail mast area is very low and the water never leaves that area even when the new seaforth is throwing up 4' wakes.

There were serious whitecaps and swell on the water at 5PM on sunday and my finder never faltered. After the wind subsided, I checked the hull to see if much if any water entered and it was about the same level.

The beauty of this system is you can start with very little water. If your reading comes and goes, just add more water.

bait tank & rod holder for revo.
 

my plan is bait tank/ rod holder, rod holder and the pipe transducer mount. i have found a scrap 13 inch drain pipe about 12in long when they were doing the sewage repair at my work, that i will be using as a bait tank with built in rod holder and make a contraption rod holder that will use the existing molded rod hoder on my recently bought revo. the bait tank will be kinda like the hobie bait tank, i am thinking may be 5-6 rod holder n built in batery holder too. and i thank everyone here for the great ideas and insparation. right now i am gathering the material i might take me a week to finish the project due a little 1yr todler running around that touches everithing she see .

something
 

just killing time with my daughter new at this and getting ready for mexico

bait tank and rod holder
 

here is the pic t6ures of the bait tank i was working on and test it last saturday, and it work great and the rod holder look good to but havent realy tested the rode holder yet since o got skunk on sat. i thank everyone on this board for the ideas and innovative from this community. tight lines to everyone and be safe out there

Here's one for the Hobie guys who haven't already remedied the flip flopping peddles. Jared at FastLane showed me how the new Hobie peddles have solved the problem. A small piece of 1/8" shock cord is attached from the top of the crank to the backside of the pedal. This is how I adapted this method. It is much lighter than gooping 2 oz weights to the bottom of the pedals.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0034.jpg

If you want to put standard size lure boxes inside of your kayak, this method will keep them from moving and when you use the bungee, it will secure them in case you flip. :(
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0027.jpg
I took a container like this and cut off the bottom, then split it in half. http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0025.jpg
Take a tarp bungee and pull the knot out of the ball. Cut off the knot and then attach each end to a side of the tray holder with an overhand knot. Adding a drainage hole in the corner will keep any water from collecting inside of the holder. Goop it in place and you're done.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0026.jpg

The last idea is more of a tip. Keep a supply of 1/8" stainless steel rod is handy. I have used it to make replacement hooks for rubber straps, dehookers, screen the outflow tube of a bt, bottom for rodholders, http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0006.jpg
sliding bungee hooks, and loops added to eyelets so additional connections can be made to it.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0002.jpg
Industrial Metals Supply carries it in 10 foot (?) length for not too much.

not really my innovation but it was pretty cool. was fishing the oside harbor on monday and ran into a guy that turned his rear storage area into a seat for his kid. he put in some eyelets and mounted a seat there. they just sat back to back and the kid fished backwards... i dont have any kids but thought it might be useful to someone..
:cheers1:

try 3m double sided tape.. thats what i did.. tryed 5200 w/ no luck and local store didnt have goop..