Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge (http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/index.php)
-   General Kayak Fishing Discussion (http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/forumdisplay.php?f=11)
-   -   Share Your Innovations (http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/showthread.php?t=6394)

JPBeck 07-29-2010 09:57 AM

I don't know if this qualifies--
I got rid of my Jeep and got a new truck, my Yakimal towers wouldn't fit, nor did I want to spend another $500 bucks on Yakimal's truck bed tower system.
Soooooo I bought a $150 dollar ladder rack.

But..
I didn't want to drill holes in my truck.
So I welded two pieces of pipe onto the side of each bracket-- and got some "J" bolts. The "J" bolts run through the pipe and down along side the truck's rail-- the J part hooks under the rail and then I crank a bolt down to tighten the brackets down. The bar at the top of the rack puts more pressure against the brackets (horizontally) at the bottom.

They aren't going anywhere. To top it off takes me about 10 minutes to remove the whole thing!

Then I just installed my old Yakimal Hullyrollers and Mako Kayak saddles via stainless steel hose clamps.

So for a total of about $200 bucks I got a nice solid kayak rack.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/IMG_0247.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/IMG_0246.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/IMG_0245.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/IMG_0244.jpg

The yellow yak is my wife's Navigator the white yak is my Fish'n'Dive

Haven't figured out how to transport my son's Cobra Explorer... any Ideas?

dsafety 07-29-2010 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPBeck (Post 61867)
Haven't figured out how to transport my son's Cobra Explorer... any Ideas?

You seem to be pretty handy with a welding torch. Why not make a bracket that attaches to what you have which creates a second level so you can stack another row of kayaks. Make it removable so it will not be in the way if you only have to carry two yaks.

Bob

sandydiego 08-03-2010 08:13 AM

I have a shell on my 2009 f150. I have a 6ft bed and put my pro angler in the back. The shell has a yakama rack on it for two more on the top.

newguy01 08-03-2010 08:30 AM

RACK?
 
check out harbor freight and ask for the truck bed extender the connects to your square hitch receiver it only cost me 35$ its quisk and easy to removed/install

JPBeck 08-03-2010 09:33 AM

I like both idea'ers--- thanks
I'll post pictures asap.
Thanks again.

tagyak 08-31-2010 07:14 PM

leashes
 
5 Attachment(s)
thought that i would add me two cents to this forum:

made rod leashes and hobie pedal leash, average cost was $5
materials: climbing rope (sport chalet .59 per ft), shock cord (sport chalet .39 per ft), quick release tabs (walmart 2pair $1 something), clips (walmart 2pc less than $1)
ran the shock cord (doubled it) thru the climbing rope. measured the climbing rope for 38" then stretched the shock cord to the max and then sewed the ends, leave 4" for quick release male end, this does not need the shock cord.
then sew up the other female end of quick release to climbing rope 6" long. make sure to add some shock cord tie a double knot to end long enough to use to lock down the fishing rod or pedals.
hope this helps. if you don't sew, take these over to your local dry cleaners, and see if they can do the sewing for you. you'll need a pretty strong sewing machine to get thru the shock cord.
the climbing rope and shock cord are great. sport chalet gives a good guide line of what type of weight these can take.
here are some pictures.

tagyak 08-31-2010 07:29 PM

wet mount for transponder
 
4 Attachment(s)
i tried to use goop to mount my transponder, but it did not work so well. finally switched it over to a wet mount. thought i would share what i did.

used a plastic container, the cheap type that is sold by glad or reynolds the type that comes in a pack of 5 or something like it. this is so that the plastic is softer and will give with the yak as it twist and turns.
cut out the bottom of the container and used goop to seal the edges. i squeezed alot of it around the bottom of the container then pushed it down to the bottom of the yak behind my sail mast on the hobie, but first took out the sail mast by unscrewing it. than let it kinda set, but before it set thoroughly, i ran my finger around the edges on the inside and out side of the container. felt for open seams. then added more goop around the edges of the container, ran my finger around it again. let it set over night and checked for any leaks. so far so good, no leaks.
took my lid and drilled a hole big enough for the cable, then cut the top of the lid like an X to allow for me to push the transponder thru to the other side. pushed the cable to the hole and used duct tape to seal the bottom of the lid.
i have been using this for a few weeks and had not had any leaks. i transported the yak to L.J. and back. still holding water. hope this helps you guys.

tagyak 08-31-2010 07:45 PM

magnets inside yak
 
10 Attachment(s)
i found a rack mount for tools in sears. they use earth magnets so that you can attach yard tools or what not to the wall mounted rack. i instead found a better use for these puppies.
took the wall rack and cut it in half, used a hack saw. then mounted each half inside the center hatch of my hobie outback. i used goop for this.
there are these attachments that came with the wall rack that you would use for the handles of the yard tools. i instead mounted these into the bottom of my yak to keep my trays from moving around inside. they also have a magnet so i attached piece of metal to the tray using a rivet gun and that in turn is held by the magnet from moving around.
i got some tackle boxes from big 5 or bass pro shop, big enough to hold most of my gear, but not too big that it won't fit into the 8" round hatch. got some metal strips from a hardware store and just tape these onto the bottom of the boxes using duct tape.
they slide into the hatch and sits on top of the earth magnets. they don't move around, but they are still easy enough to get out of the hatch without too much effort.
i added some trays from target. using one to hold my hooks. i added a piece of rubber foam from mouse pad to the lid of my hook container. the hooks were moving into other compartments and also getting wet.
i also took the plastic from the mouse pad and cut it into the shape of the hatch. i mounted this using contact cement the type that you spray on (a 3m product). i did this so that i can use it for a cutting board for bait.
here are some pictures.

tagyak 08-31-2010 07:46 PM

picture of mouse pad
 
1 Attachment(s)
this is a picture of the mouse pad i used to my cutting board.

dsafety 09-09-2010 09:19 PM

Utility Belt for your Bait Tank
 
4 Attachment(s)
Fishing has been a little slow so to help keep the juices going, I went to the shop and started tinkering.

One of the biggest issues associated with fishing from a kayak is where to stow the gear. We have hatches in the bow and stern but most of the time these storage areas are hard to get to while on the water. The center hatch is golden but usually crammed full of the most essential gear. Where do you keep the important, but not mission critical gear?

Some of the really big kayaks have lots of easily accessible storage areas in the "cockpit". I ride a Revo which, while a great kayak, does not offer much in the way of accessible storage. Somehow we still manage to make do but I know things could be better. I started thinking about ways to augment the stock setup and came up with the idea of a Utility Belt which I would attach to my bait tank.

Utility belts are cool. Batman had one. So did Tim the Toolman Taylor, (and Heidi). The idea was to find a way to strap some small items to the bait tank making them easily accessible and not all jumbled up with the other stuff that I store in the center hatch.

I started with a piece of shoulder strap webbing from one of the many pieces of luggage or trade show giveaways that I have collected over the years. I chose one with all plastic components. I purchased some snap buckles and assembled the belt attaching one end permanently to the handle of my Hobie tank and clipping the other to a ring attached to the other end of the tank.

There are dozens of ways to do this. Another option would be to attach some pad eyes and clip to those. Use your imagination. Once you have figured out a way to attach the belt to the tank, the next step is putting your gear on the belt. For this demonstration I have attached a holster for my needle nose plyers, a fillet knife and an ABS tube that will eventually hold the net for my bait tank.

When I get around to making the belt for the other side of the tank, I might attach a water bottle holder, another tube to hold my gaff, first aid kit, bilge pump or one of the other important pieces of gear that we would like to have in an easy accessible location.

Here is the basic belt setup.

Attachment 2880


Here is where the belt attaches to the tank at the handle.

Attachment 2883


This is the installed belt before I add some of my other gear.

Attachment 2881

This photo shows the belt installed after I have installed my rod holder assembly. (Revo owners, if you have not checked out this rod holder device, you should. It is displayed earlier in this post.)

Attachment 2882

This is still a work in progress but I think it may make my days on the water a little better.

Bob

jorluivil 09-16-2010 07:23 PM

OK...lets see if I finally figured out the whole text between pics thing

Here are my innovations...some you might recognize.

FF mounted onto a Pelican 1120 waterproof case. The power cord runs from the FF through the FF mount and into the case. The transducer cord runs from the FF into the hull of the yak via a clam style waterproof seal.



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010

I decided to do without the wet mount for the transducer and opted to mount it in one of the scupper holes. The transducer cord runs from the FF into the hull and back out right near the scupper hole.


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010


One of the problems I encountered was that because the top of the transducer sat flush with the bottom of the yak it did not allow water to drain out the scupper hole. I decided to take some 1-1/2" pvc and cut a piece about 1/4" long. I took a rats tails file and make a few notches to allow water to drain between the yak and the top of the transducer....works great!!!


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010

During some of my trips I would have issues closing the hatch that sits right in from of the seat. I'm 5'10" and weigh about 230, I was causing a slight bend on the edge of the hatch and this would prevent me from getting the hatch installed. I decided to take some 1" x 1" angle iron and mounted it both to the yak and the hatch, this helped keep them somewhat straight and prevent most if not all of the bend. I secured the angle iron to the hatch with some aluminum rivets and used the existing nuts and bolts to mount it onto the rim of the hatch.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010

When I sold my boat I ended up with two gaffs so I decided to take one and cut it down. Not wanting to lose grip of it when and if I ever gaff a large fish I took an old belt and strapped it down using some large zip ties. For comfort reasons I wrapped the belt in a manner that would allow it to stay flush as it wrapped around my hand. Fits better than OJ's glove...much better!



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010


http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284691010

I've got a few more to post but I have to get to work soon so I'll post them tomorrow. Let me know what you think!!!



THANKS to BTFDAVID and GREG ANDREW!!!

roadx 09-17-2010 10:50 AM

getting ready for lobster season
 
i made a davit out of 1 1/2" EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing)
to make hoop net pulling easier. the tubing fits the molded fishing pole holder on the outback nicely. i have not tested this yet and not sure if the leverage and weight from the net will make me tip or not??? will see

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284748635

eDUBz 09-17-2010 05:45 PM

I do autobody and paint and use these stand's to work on part's or paint with and use them for my OK Malibu two xl and work perfect it adjust with the chain's and fold's right and light weight just thought i'd share since it can be very useful.
http://www.tooltopia.com/astro-pneumatic-557003.aspx

Jzo 09-17-2010 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eDUBz (Post 65114)
I do autobody and paint and use these stand's to work on part's or paint with and use them for my OK Malibu two xl and work perfect it adjust with the chain's and fold's right and light weight just thought i'd share since it can be very useful.
http://www.tooltopia.com/astro-pneumatic-557003.aspx

Wow, nice!

Stan K G 09-24-2010 10:09 PM

For wet mounting using the black pipe section and rubber cap;

I had to install it in a fairly curved and asymetrical part of my yak, and I neither have the tools nor patience to file the pipe down properly, so I used marine putty.

Took the whole tube to make this...make sure to rough up the pipe very nicely, and to put on more than you need. Set it and put as much pressure as you can on it, let it cure. It will -NOT- hold to the yak plastic so after it cures pop it off and use marine poly glue to get it secure...use glue inside, outside and at the putty/pipe line so it holds and nothing leaks. (if you have it, silicone the threads to further reduce leak)

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...l/88d1fa98.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...l/46539f65.jpg


I also used some marine goop and a 2" section of PVC to mount my submerge type transducer under the rubber cap, forgot to take a pic.

Stan K G 09-24-2010 10:12 PM

Also

I use some teflon dry lubricant on the plastic threading on yak hatch covers, and the plastic hand pump....it made a HUGE difference in the pump. Smooth as silk now, takes no effort to empty out my in-yak livewell

jorluivil 09-26-2010 05:18 PM

MY LATEST LOBSTER SEASON INNOVATION
 
4 Attachment(s)
I had this LED saved to install on my boat, boats gone so time to install it on the Ole Kayaki. Being that it was going to face me I decided to install it mostly downward, it's tuff to stare at after a minute or two. The labor hours have actually turned into days.......and still not done

Fiskadoro 09-26-2010 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadx (Post 65065)
i made a davit out of 1 1/2" EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing)to make hoop net pulling easier.... i have not tested this yet and not sure if the leverage and weight from the net will make me tip or not???.

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1284748635

I think you may have some trouble with that setup.


I built and use a boom on my FND..
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1190/bowr.jpg

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7255/riggedt.jpg

There's a couple of things I'd suggest.

You don't want the boom leaning out over the water but instead even with the edge of your kayak. If it's out too far it will actually try to pull you over, and you could easily roll your yak with the setup you have shown.

The deal with the boom is that you can use your weight to your advantage and pull down rather then lift up. Which means you can put more torque on it and move the net faster through the water. The closer to your body the pulley or block is the more advantage you have. Also you want the net as close to straight under you as possible, so it does not pull you around. The boom should be fixed so it can't move around or turn, and as you want that block right where it gives you the most advantage.

Like I said mines right even with the edge of my kayak. That keeps the rope from rubbing too hard on the side of the yak but gives me maximum toque or pull speed. I find when pulling with my boom there is a point where my lanyard float clears the side of the yak, and then I pull the last pull with my right hand down while guiding the net upward around the side of the yak with my left hand. It sounds complicated but it's not.

Another issue is that you want the boom high enough that when your lanyard float hits the block the net is completely out of the water, other wise bugs can flip up and out of the net while your trying to get the rope off the block.

On the same theme you want an open block or pulley so it's easy to get the line off and on. I made mine fixed so it will not turn or twist with a extra wide opening.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/4552/boomj.jpg


It's also nice to have some kind of light on it.


http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2087/red111.jpg

I would be very concerned that your setup might pull the kayak over or worse break out the rod holder. I tried two setups that failed before I built the base for mine.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2237/deboom.jpg

You'll be amazed how much torque a boom like that puts on your yak or on a holder.

Jim

roadx 09-27-2010 03:47 PM

THANKS Jim the EMT boom is scrapped. i need to get some hoop time on the kayak and steal your design :eek::D.

nice work by the way!!!

fongman 09-28-2010 11:43 PM

I wanted to increase the dry storage under the center hatch, so I installed a raised floorboard in my Hobie. It extends from the center support to the seat scupper posts. The tray holders mounted on the sides of the hull keep the floorboard from moving laterally.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0112.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0113.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0115.jpg
It is made out of 1/16" polycarbonate and is very light, yet strong. I covered it with a non-slip, rubber drawer liner. The red circle is where I put an emergency knockout, in case it is necessary to pump water out of the hull. A spade drill bit was used to create the knockout. It was then cemented to another piece of polycarbonate and reattached to the floorboard from the bottom side. A dab of goop on each corner holds the plug in place.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0106.jpg
To provide support, I split a 3" section of pool noodle lengthwise and gooped the 2 pieces down the centerline of the hull, at each end of the floorboard. This provides support and allows residual water to flow through.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0110.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/IMGP0111.jpg

dsafety 09-29-2010 08:03 AM

Fongman, I like the way you think. This is a good idea but it does not fully solve the lack of dry storage problems in Hobies. Raising the platform off the hull is a good first step. The second thing that you have to do is to install barriers on the front and back to keep stuff from sliding out of reach.

I built a similar, (although less elegant) tray for my Revo. I used the lid from a plastic storage container. This lid is approximately 25" x 17" with a 1" lip on the outside edges. To get it to fit through the hatch, I cut it in half. Before shoving the pieces into the kayak, I drilled a few holes on the cut edges. Once the plastic was in place, I ran some zip ties through the holes to reassemble the lid. To finish off, I created a "bulkhead" fore and aft using noodles in hopes that I would be able to keep my gear from sliding out of reach.

My solution is not perfect. The lid slides around a bit and stuff still sometimes slides past the noodle bulkheads. Using your idea of attaching noodle spacers to the bottom of my tray may help keep the thing from sliding around. I know that there is a way to create a better bulkhead which will prevent gear from escaping. I will be thinking about this.

I like your idea. Raising the edges somehow would make it even better. You might also consider drilling some drain holes right under the hatch area since we all know that Hobie hatches sometimes let in a little water when they are opened.

Bob

467echo 09-29-2010 09:15 AM

Just my 2 cents, and it actually costs 2 cents. A good way to keep your FF clean and dry the whole time on the water and for those surfy days. The good thing is you can actually use the buttons and read it still with the ziplock on it.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...g/DSC02479.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...g/DSC02480.jpg

Jzo 09-29-2010 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 467echo (Post 66029)
Just my 2 cents, and it actually costs 2 cents. A good way to keep your FF clean and dry the whole time on the water and for those surfy days. The good thing is you can actually use the buttons and read it still with the ziplock on it.

Cool, thx.

Fiskadoro 09-29-2010 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadx (Post 65863)
THANKS Jim the EMT boom is scrapped. i need to get some hoop time on the kayak and steal your design :eek::D.

nice work by the way!!!

Hey cool... Hate to see you scrap it. Just trying to help you with what I learned from my mistakes.

Like I said I had to do mine three times before it worked, hoop a while and you'll work out what you need..

Good luck!!!

Jim

roadx 09-29-2010 03:53 PM

i appreciate it Jim
the EMT was literally scrap. so no loss there. i modified the pulley block so the rope can be slipped over the pulley without threading it through, similar to yours. the block can be reused when i redesign something similar to the Jim Day hoop net davit. but im sure it will not be as nice as yours.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Day (Post 66081)
Hey cool... Hate to see you scrap it. Just trying to help you with what I learned from my mistakes.

Like I said I had to do mine three times before it worked, hoop a while and you'll work out what you need..

Good luck!!!

Jim


fongman 09-29-2010 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsafety (Post 66023)
.... The second thing that you have to do is to install barriers on the front and back to keep stuff from sliding out of reach.

I decided to go without a lip on the edge since I don't plan on putting any small stuff on it. The non-slip surface will also keep things in place in all but the snottiest conditions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsafety (Post 66023)
.... I know that there is a way to create a better bulkhead which will prevent gear from escaping.

I thought about zig-zagging some light shock cord to hold things in place if things move too much.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsafety (Post 66023)
.... You might also consider drilling some drain holes right under the hatch area since we all know that Hobie hatches sometimes let in a little water when they are opened.

The polycarbonate I used is only a 1/16" thick, so I don't want to weaken it with holes. I have a sponge to soak up any water.

scoop 09-30-2010 04:48 PM

Recently got myself an ocean worthy kayak (hobie), which means it 2x as heavy as my OK frenzy, and a pig to put on the roof of my car. After googling for a while, I decided to go for a home brew version of the Thule Outrigger, which seemed a little pricey.

Trip to my local Marshalls Hardware in San Diego yielded some appropriate steel.
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/81056652.jpg

Sanded and sprayed with some enamel paint.
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/76e2b0b5.jpg

Fits almost perfectly into the Thule load bar
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/e1ce58c0.jpg

Covered with a pool noodle, duct tape, and a tennis ball to prevent brain injury
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/c713e30c.jpg

Its now manageable to load my kayak alone. Lift nose onto bar, then lift stern onto rack. I actually made a second, so once its on hull down, its easy to flip it upside down without leaning over the car. Reverse the process for unloading obviously.

I pull them out and put them in the car once loaded/unloaded.

Cost was about $10 per.

tagyak 10-27-2010 08:45 PM

over the top kayak rack
 
6 Attachment(s)
i wanted to share with you guys my kayak rack. it may be over the top for some, but for others i hope that you enjoy it.
i used some steel galvanized fence post and some aluminum tubing, which my neighbor was tossing out when he was cleaning out his garage, with brackets to assemble this. it has wheels so that i can move it around in my garage when i need to get behind it, or to wheel it out to load up in my car. wheels really do come in handy.
i also attached some hulley rollers from yakima to the cross bar so that i can easily roll up the kayak onto it. i found the rollers on craigslist for $50.
underneath i covered the bars with hot water insulation from home depot so that i could place my poles onto it. i think it is better than stashing them into a corner in the garage.
hope that you guys like the pictures.

wiseguy 10-28-2010 06:13 AM

Very Nice! I want one!:)

Jzo 10-28-2010 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tagyak (Post 68085)
i wanted to share with you guys my kayak rack...

Nicely done, thx for sharing. :cheers1:

Jimmyz123 11-09-2010 02:46 PM

Great Idea Here
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by fongman (Post 54263)
The wellnuts/screws on a Hobie Adventure can easily be used as mounting points. I used the ones near the front hatch to fasten a polycarbonate shelf for my fishfinder base. When I changed from a Humminbird to Garmin, no big deal; I just drilled new holes. Polycarbonate is very strong and will not crack like acrylic.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ntingShelf.jpg

I made aluminum mounting plates for the ones behind the seat. These are used to support the pvc rodholder I made. The plate provides front-to-back stability while the V construction provides side-to-side stability. Other features that I like of this rodholders design is that they are angled at about 45 degrees, they have a low center of gravity, the mass is kept close to the centerline of the kayak, and the rods are within easy reach.

In addition, they point slightly forward or back, depending upon which direction they are mounted. When pointed forward, the tips of the rods can be seen without much effort.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...olders-FWD.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...olders-BCK.jpg

I also built some extension tubes for the builtin rodholders. I use these for my bass rods. Electrician tape wrapped over one layer of corktape on 1 1/4" pvc creates a snug fit. Instead of using lanyards to secure the rods, the bungies are looped over the reel handles.

I know exactly what I am going to do on my Yak now instead of installing the Ram Mount Rod holders. I'll post up photos of my creation when I am done.

Jimmyz123 11-27-2010 01:25 PM

Milk Crate and others
 
Using something I saw Fongman do I made this Milk Crate
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../MilkCrate.jpg

Then when you buy a Kayak from Jim Sammons you get some of his great creations that come with it.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...23/FFinder.jpg

Mounting the Transducer with a make shift bracket. I noticed in the photo it was a little off center so I corrected that after the photo was taken. I'm just about ready to take her out for the first time.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...3/IMG_0323.jpg

I love this stuff.

Jzo 11-27-2010 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmyz123 (Post 70028)
Using something I saw Fongman do I made this Milk Crate
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../MilkCrate.jpg

Great work!

dsafety 11-27-2010 06:06 PM

Jimmy, that rig looks great. Where will you put your bait tank, in the crate? One thing that Fongman did which you might consider is to somehow move the trolling "V' forward a bit. If you have it too far back, you will have a tough time watching the rod tips, not to mention getting your hand on the rod quick enough to deal with a soft bite.

It looks like you could move the V about six inches forward by building a mounting bracket that attaches to the crate so it positions the rod holders right behind your seat.

An even better way to handle things would be to create a rig that moves the rod holders to where they are about even with your shoulders. I have experimented with this and found that there is a sweet spot for the rod holder location that makes it easy to watch the rods without getting in the way of paddling.

You can't to this with a "V" setup but using ABS or PVC pipe, you can create individual rod holders that mount to the crate, extend forward to the appropriate place. At the forward end they will need to be secured to the yakl with straps to make sure everything stays where it is supposed to.

If you are like me, you will find that tweaking your setup until it works perfectly for the way you like to do things is almost as much fun as going fishing. It gets even better when your idea works perfectly and helps you catch a trophy fish.

Bob

Jimmyz123 11-27-2010 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsafety (Post 70044)
Jimmy, that rig looks great. Where will you put your bait tank, in the crate? One thing that Fongman did which you might consider is to somehow move the trolling "V' forward a bit. If you have it too far back, you will have a tough time watching the rod tips, not to mention getting your hand on the rod quick enough to deal with a soft bite.

It looks like you could move the V about six inches forward by building a mounting bracket that attaches to the crate so it positions the rod holders right behind your seat.

An even better way to handle things would be to create a rig that moves the rod holders to where they are about even with your shoulders. I have experimented with this and found that there is a sweet spot for the rod holder location that makes it easy to watch the rods without getting in the way of paddling.

You can't to this with a "V" setup but using ABS or PVC pipe, you can create individual rod holders that mount to the crate, extend forward to the appropriate place. At the forward end they will need to be secured to the yakl with straps to make sure everything stays where it is supposed to.

If you are like me, you will find that tweaking your setup until it works perfectly for the way you like to do things is almost as much fun as going fishing. It gets even better when your idea works perfectly and helps you catch a trophy fish.

Bob

Thanks Bob for the advice. At present that rod holders in the crate are setup so that the bait tank(5 gallon bucket) will fit dead in the middle of them. I'm still gathering the parts for the bait tank.

As for the V rod holder that's a temporary setup until I can install some of the New Scotty Rocket Launcher Rod Holders. Jim Sammons showed me some that he has and they are very nice. First I have to find a place that carries them. If not those I'll get the Ram mount rocket launchers.

Believe me, I will be tweaking thing often to find what does work perfectly for me. One thing I am still thinking about is the Fishfinder, I may remove that from the cutting board plate that was made and attach the base directly to the Kayak and a little lower.

I am truly loving this whole kayak fishing and rigging thing.

jorluivil 11-29-2010 11:23 AM

Glowsticks
 
2 Attachment(s)
So I've seen these glow sticks at Home Depot for a few months now and finally decided to buy some and see if I could modify them for hooping.

First reason to buy these is because they come with free battery replacements for life, just pay shipping and handling....I know, I know that's not exactly free but it only cost $15 to replace the batteries on 6 glow sticks. Lifegear also sends you a prepaid envelope to return the old batteries for proper disposal. Not sure how many of you know this but it is illegal to throw batteries in the trash. The last time I bought batteries for my Promar sticks I bought them at Walmart, they sell a similar set of batteries for $5.00+tax, $6 X 6 packs= $36........50% savings by going with the Lifegear brand.

Second reason to buy these is because they come with three way lighting. Orange solid, orange flashing, and a flashlight at the tip, this part of the light can be reversed and used as a solid white white on the glow stick.

First thing I did was cut off the whistle that sits at the bottom of the glow stick, you can leave it on but it just makes the glow stick that much longer and gets in the way. Once you cutoff the whistle you can attach it to your PFD, hopefully you'll never need it but it's good to have one.

Next thing was to Goop three areas of the glow stick, you want to Goop the part that has the flashlight, the on/off button and the area where the two pieces come together. Because Goop is slightly flexible once it dries it still allows you to use the on/off button after the Goop dries.

About the only downfall to these is that they have a one hour timer on them, I looked at the circuit board to see if I could bypass the time but I couldn't figure out which part of it was the timer. I figured this out the hard way, three of the glow sticks turned off minutes apart from each other while I was hopping. The way to avoid this is to simply turn them off and on each time you pull your net(s). However, because they do have a timer you'll never have to worry about them turning on after you put them away, this happens to my Promar sticks a lot, the copper contact touches the battery and.......you know the rest.

Promar makes a god product but if you can get something for less and make it work by making slight modifications why not? You can get three of these for just under $8, that's under $3 each compared to a price of $6 for each for the Promars.

bus kid 12-05-2010 01:06 PM

8 Attachment(s)
while I was out fishing on black Friday I locked my cart up to the lifeguard tower and at the end of the day when I got out some asshole came along and busted off one wheel.So i went to HF and got new wheels. Here's what I did.

old wheel removed from cartAttachment 3353

old axle removed from old wheelAttachment 3354

old axle in new wheel Attachment 3355

fits perfectAttachment 3356

repeat for the other side Attachment 3357

While at Hf I picked up a box of snap clips 12 pcs for $5
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...set-67563.html
used the snap clips to leash everything down and the box became a tackle box
Attachment 3358
fits perfect in the side pocketAttachment 3359

I also drilled a hole in a rib inside the hatch and tied the hatch to the inside of the yak added a loop and a snap clip to keep my dry bag close inside.Attachment 3360

very productive day for me.

Rockin1904 01-16-2011 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billy V (Post 48312)
OK.....Mr. and Mrs. Sea Bass the time is almost upon us so I will share a little.

These are (2) of the finest improvised Kayak Fishing tools I have used.
The first is a New Silent Kelp Clip for those WSB missions that take you into the spaghetti. This clip takes up No room at all, nor does it make any metallic sound.

Its very easy to use, Just grab 2 or 3 single strands of kelp and Cuff it. Tie the other end to your kayak.
It will not slip do to wind or current, and you do not have to pile 25 lbs. of salad on your Kayak to anchor.
-A joint venture between Me and Elbie.
-----------------------
Item #2 is a De- Hooking Tool for your Sabiki Rig.
Hold it by the Cork End and use the hook end to grab the line in front of your hooked Mackerel. Just lift and it will invert the hook letting the Mackerel fall off.
Never again will you have to deal with pliers, or your bare hand around those nasty hooks. This thing work like magic.
Yes, it floats.

-I first started using a piece of coat hanger, and making 2 tight loops and a short shaft with the hooked end. I would wear it on my finger like a ring.
I gave away a bunch of them at the launch every time somebody would ask..What the hell is that ? ..I gave them one.:)
-This type you see here is the 2nd generation version that has been improved upon by Rick Robinson. Its a Brass Rod (no rust) and a Champagne Cork. He now operates a factory in China and sells them by the gross.:p:p:p

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D720/ry%3D480/

This de hooker with some minor tweaks works like a charm!!

senojmj 02-09-2011 12:21 PM

Trailer Version 2.0
 
5 Attachment(s)
While waiting for the snow to melt, I try to pass the time by reading this forum and especially this thread. I posted a while back that I bought a used trailer and used it last summer. It was great other than I could only carry 2 kayaks and a cargo box. Here is a pic of my original setup. It was a rack setup on the bunks of the trailer.
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/a...1&d=1283966878
I wanted to be able to put bikes and camping gear in addition to the 2 kayaks. I also wanted to be able convert it to a utility trailer if I wanted to go to home depot and pick up some wood. I decided I would need a second level to the trailer to hold all that. I removed the bunks and added floor to the frame of the trailer. I looked into some kayak racks that are designed for small boat trailers. They ran about $250 to $400. More than I wanted to spend. I found a ladder rack to be the solution. I bought one for $60 on ebay. It took me a few hours to figure out the best way to install this onto my trailer. This is the end result. I put the kayaks on today to make sure it all fits. I added some iron piping to the bottom for my racks to hook onto.
Attachment 3596

Attachment 3597

Attachment 3598
Room for the bikes in the middle of the top rack


Attachment 3600

Attachment 3601
I bolted the ladder rack to the frame of the trailer.
I think it turned out pretty good and can't wait try it out this summer. When it is all said and done, I spent about $330 for this set up. As always if you have any other ideas please share them!
Jeff

roby 02-10-2011 05:28 PM

This isn't really an innovation, but I thought it might help someone. I know the wet mount has been around....

I first mounted my transducer attached to the sail mast of my Hobie Revolution. I zip tied it to the mast and then just added water. It worked, but I didn't like the water in the yak...

I decided to contain the water in some foam.


I bought a foam roller for 10 bucks or so at walmart. After I cut the piece I needed, I jammed it in to the hull of the kayak for extra floatation. Or you can cut and sell more pieces to your non-Hobie friends for $10 a piece. You also can frame the pic of the hot chick on your garage wall.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P1230003.jpg

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P1230009.jpg


Cut the transducer section smaller than the actual transducer so the fit is snug.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P1230011.jpg


Take time to shape the foam to match the kayak hull.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P1260002.jpg


I gooped the foam and just added water. The transducer fits in snug and will not come out even if I flip the kayak and shake it, "like a Polaroid camera." I add a water saturated sponge on top just in case the ducer wants to move, but I also use the sponge when I'm done to take out any water from inside the foam.

http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t...g/P2060017.jpg


I have taken it out several times and it works just fine. The water doesn't come out either when I load and unload the yak. If I was to do it over again I would cut the foam at 3 inches or so. I know this wetmount topic is overdone, but just wanted to add.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:20 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
© 2002 Big Water's Edge. All rights reserved.