Magnets
 

Anybody ever use Neodymium Magnets to mount things on their Yak?

I got an idea today from one of my Techs in service. I was checking out his street bike and he had a bag on the fuel tank and it was held on to the tank by magnets. I started thinking... we could glue magnets inside the hull and then we could put magnets on the underside of say a tackle bag or whatever.

What do you guys think?

I think if you depend on a compass for navigation, you might want to re-think the magnets.

actually i had done this already. check out it here http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...?t=6394&page=5
i had gotten these magnets from sears. they were used to hold up your tools but i just cut it in half and used the magnets strips and gooped it to the ledges on the hobie outback. then i used metal strips from the hardware store and duct taped them to the bottom of the plastic tackle boxes.
it worked great. done thru surf launches and yard sales and the tackle boxes remained in place. these are not the usually back magnets that you see on refrigerators but the earth magnets that you find in hard drives. they are real strong.

I were at that as well. Were thinking about putting a magnet on the inside of the kayak then take some stainless steal tube and put in the center of the paddle. So when I wanted to get the paddle out of the way fast, The magnets would hold it in place till I need it again.

that might work if stainless steel were magnetic...but I don't think it is...:(

Stainless Steel is not magnetic enough to work for what you want it to do.

another project. Looking for a spot to put the switch and the batter.
Took it out in the water bait lasted for around 6 hours.
problems I found was that the scales don't drain out.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k5...r/IMG_0332.jpg
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Nice design.. are you putting a timer on there? I'm wondering if it's necessary? It seems like a good idea to preserve battery life, but I'm not sure how long the battery would last if I just let it run the whole time.

Try 4xx alloy stainless steel. The nickle free SS are generally magnetic.

i made a tank like yours out of my gatorade tank because the fish need electrolytes to stay hydrated. :D I ran an inflow and outflow hose and it recycles the water better and having the cooler insulated the water stays at the same temp as in the ocean/lake/river, etc. I have it wired with my FF to my 12v 10.5 amp hour and it lasts nearly all day for a marathon of fishing.

Us a 6v for the bait and it will last all day.

I used the 12V I got from you, and the tank died... lol.. (I'm not sure if I charged it fully? How can you tell?) Those chovy's died pretty quick once the livewell pump stopped. Not sure why the 6V would last longer than the 12V? When it was working, the 12V and livewell were working great! Once I've finished the fine-tuning, I'll post up some pics.

Some charger will tell you how full the batter is or you can check the volt. Full charge should be almost 13v I think. 6v will run the pump at half power so it last twice as long. My last DIY tank only lasted 4-5 hours on a charge at 12v.

I wanted to install an anchor trolley on my Hobie Prangler 14, but didn't especially want to drill any more holes in it. The front and rear carry handles suggested an option, and a bit of household wiring provided the means. I simply loosened the handle bolt and slipped the hooked ends of a short piece of wire underneath. I got the pulleys at the hardware store for less than three bucks. (I boat only in freshwater, so I didn't need to spring for stainless steel pulleys.) Here's the front handle:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ps2bba945f.jpg


And here's the rear:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ps02927e32.jpg

From here on, the rigging is pretty standard. If you are looking for a quick and inexpensive way to rig an anchor trolley, I hope this helps.

Not sure if this is an innovation but I put some of that tape for your thumb or fingers 12'', 14'', 22'' and 28'' up on my fishing rod so I can easily determine if the fish are legal or not. Has been on there for about 2 months. Im sure electric tape would work good too.

I was thinking of actually using a magic marker to make very small hashmark lines on the side of my yak as a ruler. Same idea... :cool:

I did that last year after going out the first day with nothing to measure with. I made the marks, with abbreviations at each mark for which fish that measurement was for. Useful tool for an old man with a bad memory.

I always mark my Kayak with lengths that are important. I use a perm. marker and I start at an easy location and then mark all the way up to 32" I have tried those stick on rulers, and they have not worked too well. I have carried a ruler thing with me and it's just another gaget on to have to carry. Mark your boat and even if you sell the thing it's marked for the guy buying it from you. If needs be the marker can be taken off also.

I have the stick-on ruler on my paddle. Easy to move it to the fish or the fish to it.

My Kayak Loading system
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeorK...ature=youtu.be

I had to make something to help make loading my Kayak on my car easier and to prevent messing up the wiper on the back window. Sure I could have paid $30 or more for an REI system or something already built, but where's the fun in that.
2 suction handles $5 each = $10
PVC pipe and fittings for both = $10
Pool Noodle, already owned.

Connected and tested best of all, it works.

where do you get those suction cup deals? looks like they fit the pvc perfect.

Harbor Freight, but you have to cut them in half, but for $5 a handle you can't beat that.

great ingenuity, (sp?) thanks for the great write up

Used to store the kayak on the harbor freight stand but always found the kayak tipping to one side and it was rather difficult to load it on there. Found a free used memory foam mattress on craigslist. Cut it lengthwise down the middle and it works great. Cradles the kayak awesome with no hard spots.

PA Rescue Ladder
 

Came across this idea from another dude on the hobie forum. Looked like a great way for re-entering your PA. All it is is rope attached to some kind of pipe, then that's attached to the back handle of the PA.

I tested this on Saturday and it worked great! Climbing on the PA from the rear seems to be the easiest way to get back on...at least for me it is. Is the ladder necessary to get back on...no...but it sure makes it a hell of a lot easier. I would imagine with waders full of water...anyway to make it easier could be a life saver.

In order for this to work, after you fall in the water...you have to swim over to the rear handle, give a sharp tug to the ladder, it will release from the bungee. You let the ladder hang down in the water, then you grab the PA back handle with both hands pull down and lift yourself up. As you are holding yourself up put one foot then the other on the ladder, lean forward, and your body weight should shift forward, and your back on. Then at that point you just climb back to the front seating position.

Stowed Position
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...pscd647aec.jpg

Deployed Position
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...psefcd2e25.jpg

I don't have a PA but if I did, I sure would add this. Anything to make life easier and safer while Kayaking.

Made myself a fish beating stick. Ive been wanting one one for a while and after a few beers me and a buddy built this with left over stuff found around the house/ garage.

Sure its not really for sea dogs?

be careful with the PVC. That looks like a health size and I have never hit anything with PVC that large. I have hit things with smaller (1 inch diameter) PVC and the issue is it shatters. Post up how it works after you beat down a fish or two.

if it is he forgot the nails! :D

It works great its filled with sand. I tested it out hitting alot of stuff, took a couple mackerel out in the driveway and beat em into mush and the side of my kayak is alot more forgiving than concrete.

Doing a slow and steady restoration on an ole 78' Bronco. It's going to be my beach runner/kayak hauler. I'm tired of my Jeep smelling like fish and salt everytime I come home from fishing.

The bed was just a smidge too short to have a good stable platform for the PA, and I really don't like the idea of a bed extender that has to come on and off. I don't have enough room for the stuff I already own.

So I whipped this bad boy up. Made from 1inch square stock. I couldn't find a foam pad long enough so I took a pool noodle and wrapped it in some nice abrasion resistance fabric I found at Joannes. The bar cost about $24 to make and the pad was $8. For $32 and some of my time, I'm pretty happy with the results.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps8c2b7d4b.jpg
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That is a nice simple solution for an extender.

Found these videos on building a kayak cart.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...art-build.html

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...ayak-cart.html

Excellent idea!

Just wondering how long your kayak is? It looks like a PA, but not sure if it's the 12 or the 14? I have an Oasis tandem, which is 14.5ft.

Does the front of your kayak rest IN BETWEEN your seats? I guess I'm just wondering how much length of kayak is inside and resting on the truck bed+liftgate+extender, and how much is hanging off the back.

Thanks.. :cheers1:

Don't take this wrong because I think that's a good idea, but from the pictures it looks like a weak design with those hinges. Plus is that short of an extension even worth it? I think maybe a bigger tube on the tailgate with an extension tube that slips inside the bigger one would be clean and strong.

I think it's probably good. I agree, that a tube sliding within a larger tube would be much stronger and eliminate the hinge. But, I think the way it is the kayak center-of-gravity (COG) is well in front of that hinge. I think this rear extender is not supporting much weight, and just mainly for balance and some more spreading or distribution of the weight. I like that it folds out of the way. Also, I could see it possible to add a short bar on each arm to span across the hinge to lock it in and further reinforce this weak point.

I popped the original pin out of the hinges and replaced them with high grade stainless steel bolts. The hinge holds my weight at 220lb. Also, that little bit of an extension really was all I needed. It also gave me an additional place to strap the kayak down. I strap it like I would to any other roof rack. I'm an engineer. I though of everthing :)


The sliding tube was my first thought, but coating it to prevent rust was an issue, since the paint of the smaller tube would continue to scrape off

You on a diet? :biggrinjester:

Another DIY Kayak Cart?
 

Yep, I built another Kayak Cart.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psec308543.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ps45e63d3f.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qG2oGTiHLB8