Hobie Modifications
 

Here's a couple ideas that Hobie owners might find useful:

1. Pedal springs.

Having used weights in the back of the pedals for a long time, I was still annoyed by the pedals spinning on occasion. The weights held the pedals upright most of the time, but I would still kick them from time to time and they would spin and my foot would end up on the back of the pedal. Still a good idea and worthy of use. Hopefully, this idea will work too. The springs are to hold the pedals in a permanent upright position, but still allow them to rotate back and forth as you pedal.

This is what you need: The screws and washers are all stainless. The springs are not, so they will probably rust eventually and have to be replaced.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j.../Retrofit1.jpg

The brackets are made of 3/4" wide aluminum molding. They are about 5" long with a 90 degree bend. The big holes are drilled with a 7/32 bit. The small holes are drilled with a 7/64 bit. The small springs are 3/4" long.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j.../Retrofit2.jpg

This is a view of the pedals from the front. The small screws hold the springs to the brackets at the top.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j.../Retrofit3.jpg

This is the back view. The brackets are attached to the pedal posts with the larger screws and washers. The holes in the pedal posts were made with an 11/64 bit. The small holes in the pedals were made with 5/64 bit. This is where the springs attach to the pedals.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j.../Retrofit4.jpg

I have not tested this system yet. It should work. Famous last words! This is just an idea to get people thinking. I know there are probably better ways of doing this. I was thinking Hobie should just make bicycle type pedals that are two-sided so it would matter which side you foot ended up on.

2. Hobie Live Well intake screen. Simple. Not so much a screen but thin diameter wire threaded back and forth across the opening through small holes. This works great. Try to find stainless wire or other non-corroding wire. I actually used solid silver wire bought from a bead craft store. Yeah, it's pure silver, but not very expensive. Just a couple bucks for a small amount of wire, and it won't rust away.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j.../Retrofit5.jpg

Just some ideas that may be helpful.

Wayne

good ideas. For the livewell intake opening I just cut out a piece of goldfish netting and super glued it to tubing.Its a fine mesh that should not suck in smaller size particals. Very simple,cheap,and has lasted at least 6 months so far!

cooh but dont u need some give in the pedal rotation? i might get cracking in the pedal or even worse u might rip the brackets from the drive arms

I'm one of those that use the weights in the back of the pedals -
it's taken a while but they've finally broken in, loosened up and I've never had an issue with the pedals not hanging properly.

I use a little window screen material unside the intake tube to keep things out - it's never clogged.

Here's a pic of my simple mod to keep the bait well full in the event of a low battery.
The tank will drain if the battery stops and this keeps both the intake and the outflow at the same basic level -
tube is 1" I.D. and 1 1/4" O.D. with pvc elbows - cost $3.00.
I'll use it if I know I'll be out on the water all day - 3-4 hour stints with a full battery, i leave it off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1/IMG_0142.jpg

Modifications
 

h2ofishfo: Those are weak springs at the top. They flex and allow the pedals to rotate plenty. The springs just bring them back to vertical when I take my foot off them.

Montesdad: The weights worked for me too. My pedals hung properly. I just kept kicking them with my toe when bringing my foot back up and they would spin. I like your intake modification.

I'm just trying something new. It may not work after all. We'll see.