Anyone know a good machinist?
 

This is kind of a long shot but I'm building a BMW Chopper/Bobber right now and need to extend a driveshaft 12 1/2 inches. I could probably do it, but am considereing just giving it to someone else who I know could get it perfect the first time.

Here's the bike in progress.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...46953430_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...19699129_n.jpg

If you have someone you can recommend just PM me the info...Thanks!! Jim

This place has been around since I was a kid. I'm now 12.

No just kidding. I'm 61 and they are well known for balanceing driveshafts and anything to do with drive trains. I would imagine they also fabricate new drive shafts.

Good Luck

http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl...45299696353470

I know a guy...
 

But his work is a little shoddy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0fuHY4U1UA


:biggrinjester:

My friends and I have built alot of hot rods in our day and have never been dissappointed with Karls machine shop in Corona ca. Golden State drive shafys are very dependable for making and balancing a good driveshaft aswell.

Slick, I've been wanting to cafe one of those airheads for a while now

No room for a paddle, gaff or bait tank:(

Actualy you dont need so much to balance the shaft as to make sure its perfectly stright. When I had my own auto shop one of the guys had a K5 blazer. With 48in tires on it. He twisted some shafts and broke both front and rear ends. Every time he send for a shaft to be build they never lasted as the welds sucked. Yes we send them to the best shops that everyone seems to rave about. Talked to a a very old timer that used to build race cars in the 50s. He said as long as the shaft is stright you dont need to balance it as its diameter is too small. For the next build we got front and rear ends off a 3 ton chevy truck. We needed 4 guys just to get each one off the delivery truck. Found a pipe where both ends of the shaft would fit snag. cut a window in it. Using an arc welder we welded both ends togher. Joel been driving that K5 for 7 years now with out a single problem. Heck he span the tires from stand still. Jim i seen some pics you posted of the welds you done. Trust me you would do a 10 times better job then any shop would.

Pretty funny. I have a friend that calls me the machinist because of that movie..:cheers1:

I like the front knobby... cutting edge..stuff:D

BMW Hill climber maybe if the chopper doesn't work out:cool:

Jim, That will a super bitch'n scoot when done..

Thanks for the great feedback. I appreciate your confidence. I may do it myself, but everything seems tough until you actually do it kind of thing.

The shaft on the beemer is solid about a half inch in diameter. I have some 1/8 walled tubing with almost the same ID. I figure I could cut the shaft take down the shaft diameter a tiny bit on each end so it sleeves into the tubing perfectly tight then weld it and true the welds down for balance on my lathe.

This is actually a common modification. Here's some pics from a guy who did this on his GS.

http://www.stephenbottcher.net/BMW/R.../_DSCF3189.jpg

http://www.stephenbottcher.net/BMW/R.../_DSCF3186.jpg


http://www.stephenbottcher.net/BMW/R.../_DSCF3187.jpg


His top one initially failed because he did not have clearance for the sleeve but I made my swingarm a different way and should not have the same problem. http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...51714266_n.jpg



Most guys who do this are trying to get added ground clearance on their Offroad dual sport bikes that see a lot of abuse. I'm just doing it for length on what will essentually a road bike, but since I'm adding so much more length then is standard 317mm vrs the more normal 35mm to 50mm I'm pretty concerned that it get's done right.


You almost got me inspired. I guess the bottom line is to do it spin it to make sure it's true and if it works it works. If it fails or vibrates I could just pull it and do it again.


Jim

Yeah the knobby came with the wheel and fork, it's from a DRZ400. Once I'm done welding things on it I'll replace it an my old Metzler with some new Shinko 705's

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...5-20162247.jpg

Good eye... You're getting the idea. I'm taking custom AV rider offroad mods, dropping and lengthening the rear end like a hillclimber, creating kind of a unique bike with a chopper bobber look. Most BMW choppers look like Harley's with the wrong engine in them, I wanted to build something unique, that fit the BMW esthetic, but was not only functional but multifunctional.

With the DRZ400 forks and the R1200GS WP centered monoshock in the rear it should be offroad capable.

Originally I bought the DRZ fork with the intention of turning the BMW into a GS, or PD, but then I got the chopper bug after looking at it with the new fork on next to aluminum chopper KHS bicycle mod I built last month.


http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...19837561_n.jpg
Funny after building the new swing arm and stretching it out a bit that BMW looks ridiculously short to me with just the DRZ400 fork.

At any rate... The kicker is if everything works as planned I'm going to add a second lower shock mount on the BMW, so I can raise the rear for offroad use. True dual sport. I could then ride it to the desert as a chopper, drop the rear end then ride it off the pavement all day.

Jim

Just have to build that bicycle, motorcycle, as a tow vehicle kayak trailer, I've been thinking about for something like five years. :D

Jim I bet you would do a better job then we did. You seem to have better exp in welding then we did and also better EQ for this kind of work. Its also much easier to do then it sounds. We done the rear shaft first and after that the front one. Each one we got right the first time. Paying attention to details is all it takes. A sander to clean up the welds and paint to make it looks good and you are done. Now if you make the wheel base too long i would think you would lose the off road capabilty.