Short video on rod tip protectors that I added to the Kraken 13.5.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNvhV-v8HOU

Floating livewell from pipe insulation, zip ties, 3 gallon bucket, and screw on top...All parts from home depot for no more than 20.

Kept macs live all day. Easy to put bait in and I drilled holes on top so it would get lighter when lifted on the kayak if I needed to boogie. Enough water inside to keep fish alive before posting up on the next stop. Then tossed it back in the water to float filling up all the way around the holes to give bait more swim space.

No seals ever messed with it. I've upgraded to a diy livewell using a bilge pump...

This would be better in the bay or lakes.

Just a cheap optionAttachment 18886Attachment 18887Attachment 18888Attachment 18889

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Thanks! Thank really great. Might try it.

Very nice. Where did you buy your 2" side mount pulleys?
The Harbor Freight electric hoist looks like a good fit for your project.

Magnetic transducer mount
 

1 1/2" PVC. Magnets from an instant screen.

Great start................however, I can't imagine all of the crap that will get hung up on that rod let alone the rust that it will build after a few trips. Why did you not use galvanized material?

Crap!
 

I didn't think about the crap. The bolt and nuts are 2"x 1/4" stainless. I'm hoping it works. If something hangs up, it will just fall away and my signal will get funky. Then I will re-attach.
slow process shaping the PVC so I hope it works.

Everybody makes these
 

I know everybody has made these to death, but I'm pretty happy with them.

Neat design. So you just slid the outer layer of the paracord onto the weed whacker line?

Yes, I use a strand of the inner core to tie the loop back, then electrical tape, then heat shrink.

Here's a link to a video on how to do this.

http://yakchronicles.com/coiled-para...eash-tutorial/

I haven't posted on here in a while, so I'll share a few things I made. The first is a fly rod holder. I have some extra RAM accessories so I made it for a RAM 1.5" ball mount. I originally used a bungee cord and lashing hook (OEX) to secure the rod to the rod holder. Recently I modified it to have a rotating collar, like the Scotty Power Lock.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps21ayjgeg.jpg

The next are check valves. These will be used in place of the seat plugs in my Hobie Adventure. The parts list: 3/4" PVC male adapter, 3/4" PVC pipe, syringe plunger, and 1/8" SS rod. The video I saw used a 3/4" acrylic ball, but I couldn't find any for the right price. Instead, I found a 6-pack of syringes at Party City for $7. I cut the rod at the indentation, then filed the fins of the plunger so it would slide in the 3/4" PVC pipe. Do not push the pipe all the way into the adapter because you want to allow a gap for more water to pass through. The hole I drilled in the pipe allows the plunger about an 1/8" of clearance from the top. The threaded portion was sawed off above the last 3 threads.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psqapixxaw.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps8qrto5eo.jpg

Seat Riser
 

The Adventure/Islander seat is below the water line, so the seat plugs must be in place. When water comes over the side, which is frequent, you end up sitting in a pool of water. I found a video on YouTube (AI Seat Riser) that addressed this problem. He used 2-part foam (8 lb) to build up the seat area about 1.5" - 2". Since the water line is now below the seat, he replaced the seat drain plugs with 3/4" PVC pipes. Watch the video if you are interested in making one.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psmwuypcof.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psedb1iqqk.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...pstuo82fa3.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps8yv8qh6i.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps8uq2ns89.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...pstewhoinj.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psdypmbvs5.jpg

In my build, I used the check valves in place of the 3/4" pipes (see my previous post). The keys to remember are: 1) be sure kayak is level, 2) use a release agent on the seat, 3) work fast with the foam since it will set up within 3 - 4 minutes, 4) concrete needs to be rough in order to quickly shape the foam, 5) before painting, use acetone to remove any chemical residue from the foam. A coat of Polyurethane over the paint will make it more durable. Since the seat covers the drain holes, I added channels to the seat riser so the water will be able to drain.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psahr59m9x.jpg

Due to the seat being higher, the mounting position for the back rest was also raised. I removed the bungee screw-in plugs used for the paddle keepers and replaced them with the D-ring plugs. The backrest is more comfortable clipped here. Plus it is easier to enter and exit the kayak with the shorter straps. The last modification was to secure the paddle bungee. It is now using a part of the Islander (sail) rigging.

I tested it out on a snotty day on the bay. As was expected, a lot of water came over the side, however, it drained out just as it was designed. The only negative was the hardness of the seat. I'll have to go back to sitting on my kneeling pad. Since I no longer need it under my seat (to raise me up), I'll now use it on top of the seat.

What does a 72in tent pole shrink wrap a pvc cap tread and one eye have in common
 

Bingo home made bait rod

Leaders/Rigs
 

I find myself changing out a rig from time to time while out there. What to do with those rigs and leaders? You certainly dont want the tangling up or getting snagged on other things - like your leg, feet, pedals... So, I simply spool them up on these. Its a nice way to keep them all arranged, undamaged, easily re-usable, and readily available.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is my original battery connection
 

There aren't many like it , cause this one is mine . :D . It has seen many a battery . The first replacement I bought was similar in dimensions and capacity which was rated 7 amp 6 Vlt. I got that battery from fry's electronics for relatively cheap . Yes, 7 amp . That was a long time ago. Of course hobie has upgraded since then to a standard equipped 10 amp battery. Tbe current battery I am using is a Bioenno LIPO4 12 amp. This battery will last me all day and not slow on flow of pump,

Finishing up
 

What I've realized about these connections, is that they are bulletproof. Even with little care or attention, I have not had any problems. This connector is probably from an 09-10 outback, which was my first Hobie kayak. Yes, I started out on the Dark Side. Anyways, after having so many issues with my fishfinder, I decided to try this connector for my battery power source. I ordered a couple sets of connectors from a dealer and head them shipped. The complete package lists for about 20.00$. The package includes male/ female ends and pre-greased wire caps that even have a dust cap for the back of screw on wire connector . I have never seen this before. To prevent and issues, I also put some marine goop to insure a water tight seal at connection . This should give trouble free operation for more that a year of hard use. Ideally the life of your fish finder. Easily achievable if you do like me, and replace your unit every 6 months. :D.

Some pics
 

Battery in water tight container is for my hobie tank and is s 12 amp Lipo. This battery will run all day.

Guess rest of pics did not come through
 

Standard

Caps
 

If wires