Over the Side Transducer Mounts?
 

Just picked up a Lowrance Elite- 5 Chirp last weekend. Now comes the time for the install. First time install, but I have seen most of your guy's set-ups so I get the general idea.

The only thing, it seems that for the best results, the transducer needs to be directly in the water. Since this install is going on a Cobra kayak there is no slot for it, nor an option to do scupper mounts since I mostly shore launch.

That leaves me with the over the side swing arm mount. Can you guys share some pictures, ideas or products available for this type of install?:you_rock:

I would prefer to build it myself since I would like this ready for the weekend.

RAM transducer arm is pretty slick, one shown is mounted in track, but you can mount on a 1" RAM ball

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CpC1o1Cesb...0/DSC_0257.JPG

I have the same ff with 50/200 transducer magnet mounted. believe you can get info at fishfindermounts.com

i used the transducer arm and a gear track, and it works great. i posted pics of it when i did it, but i don't know how to attach that thread. search portable transducer mount and you can see it.

Not sure if this helps, but I bought a 1" RAM ball wedge mount that slips into one of my flush mounts. I'm going to use mine for mounting my FF on my tandem, but it could easily be used to attach a RAM transducer arm in a non-permanent fashion.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...psdnp4qxne.jpg

There is also a suction cup mount. Can't say how it works as I use the RAM arm

I just purchased a dragonfly at Christms. I am using pvc over the side. I used a foam plug into the Outback cup holder. I compress the foam with big washers and a nut. The bolt is a couple inches longer than flush so i drilled a hole is a cutting board and slide it onto the bolt. I used butterfly nut to tighen the cutting board to the foam insert and hobie deck. I then mounted the FF display to the cutting board. The over the side arm is locked with a removable pin so when not using the FF, i rotate the arm 90 degrees and out of the water. I can sent you pics if you want.

Good luck

Check out the Mad Frog Gear tda. I've used it with a Scotty mount and currently using a gear track. I tried the putty method recently, but it is so much better in the water.

I have a suction cup mount I stick on the stern, it stays weed free and doesn't get hung up launching.

Yes, please. I would like to see how you rigged the transducer specifically.

I have already figured a place for the fish finder as I installed it last night. My kayak has a perfect hatch right between the legs. I screwed the fish finder directly onto the hatch and used 2 rubber bungies to tighten the battery box (Rubbermaid Tupperware container) to the underside of the hatch. So the whole hatch is removable with battery and fish finder.

Agreed, I have read that the best results are when the transducer is directly in the water. I didn't pay 400$ for fish finder only to reduce its capabilities.

Suction cup mount hu? Ever have it pop off?

That's a good solution, however I have read that theoretically you want your transducer more forward. If your transducer is in the back, wouldn't you be showing what you have pretty much passed?

I'll post up a pic of my homemade transducer arm when I get home. Can be done for probably $10... Plus another $10 or so for the mount. It's similar to the liberator, but it's made with pvc.

For a commercially available arm, I like the looks of the Railblaza. But I don't like how the mount for it sticks up so high. I imagine it would be easy to tear off if the yak rolls in the surf. But it can always be made to be removeable.

Thanks Mike. I like the sound of making it out of PVC. Since I already have most of the materials and you can run the wire inside the pipe.

I'm really going to have to make it custom given how my FF is setup. It's mounted in the middle of the kayak between my legs, so it will have to swing out at least a foot to the side and another 2 feet forward to avoid my leg.

I know its not the best way to set this up. But I like the idea of having everything be removable as simple as just lifting the hatch and everything lifts out. (for when I load the kayak on the truck)

Yes, there is the risk of flipping it and breaking off. When that happens I guess I will have to go back to the drawing board. But I haven't flipped yet in 2 years :). Maybe I will make it removable so I can store it in the hatch for landings.

Unfortunately I stripped everything off the other day, then lost all the screws to put it back together. So hopefully it makes sense.

Anyways, here you go. Half inch PVC (painted black). 2 metal T brackets with some plastic spacers (for hinge) and 1 L bracket (for transducer).

The 1/2 PVC fits into a scotty mount base. What I did was drill a hole thru the base and thru the pvc, then used a metal clip to hold it in place. A second clip locks the transducer arm in the lowered position (through the T bracket).

Previously I had the FF mounted onto a piece of cutting board, which was mounted into a Scotty FF mount, then placed into the center hole on a Scotty triple mount with the transducer mounted in the side hole of the mount. But now I am going to attach the arm directly to the FF mount/cutting board with a couple of screws so I can put it on my float tube.
The extra transducer cable was bundled into the clear container, then velcroed to the triple mount. You could also bundle the excess and stick it inside a hatch.

Attaching the FF and arm on one mount would make it a quick to remove and stow when the waves are up, or give you the possibility of mounting it elsewhere (rental boat) assuming the arm is long enough.

I saw you already mounted the FF on the center hatch, but its worth thinking about mounting it all together and using a Scotty base mount on the flat deck space where your foot well ends. Then it will all be out of your paddle stroke range, and the FF wont be right in your crotch. The Elite 5 screen is big enough that you wont miss anything on the screen having it that far forward.

You could also use heavy duty velcro inside your hull to keep your battery box from sliding around.

with my old humminbird
i used the pvc arm to drop transducer over the side for some years
just tucked it under my hatch straps
was kinda a hassle but worked
then after some time I made a wet mount inside hull that worked well

tried the wet well with the dragonfly but it leaked after a few attempts
maybe ducer is just too long to get a good seal with the foam

current setup is the ram transducer arm on a ram ball
ducer over the side in water
easier to flip up/stow and deploy
the black plastic sleeve is useless and creates xtra drag,
the rod alone is fine.

still hangs up in kelp, but not as bad as the pvc
less drag than the pvc
nice clear picture

for the time and parts needed to make it custom
I found it was more cost effective to just buy the ram mount setup
pretty happy with it

I'm with Radastaff, $50 and call it a day!

http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...ucer-arm-mount

I kicked around this idea as well, but I think I'm gonna end up doing the magnetic transducer mount thing. It's twice as expensive, but I like the concept.

I made my pvc arm before Ram came out with theirs, and the liberator was the only option. Nowadays there's a lot of options. Admittedly, had some of these newer options been available back then, I would have purchased one.
Looks like Scotty makes an arm now too.... But I'm not really digging that one.