hope for the best,plan for the worst
 

I really don't want to lose any of my rods and reels,I have had some of the shimanos for over 30 years. So I came up with a easy seat belt to keep them safe in the event of a roll over in my PA14.This is a simple build and the attachment hooks on the bottom of the PA are already there(I never use them). If I remember right, I spent $13.00 on the materials from OEX.

OLD GUYS RULE !
 

I'll be the first to admit that I need to lose weight. BUT in the mean time I have to fish! So as I was shopping around for my first kayak I found some really neat things on some kayaks. Each different mfgr. has it's own cool factor.The one that really struck me as a required tool is the assist leash in the jackson kayaks. If you haven't seen it, it's attached in front of where you sit and if you want to get something from the front hatch or stand up and stretch your legs, you just grab it and you can use your arms to help you stand or get from sitting to your knees very easily. So I rigged a super cheap easy one for my PA14. I used a 1/2" inch sch. 40 pvc nipple( I think it was just long enough to rise out of the sail socket by 2")then put a cap on it and I heated it with a torch just enough to soften it and put a slight bend in it(maybe one or two degrees)so when you drop it in the sail socket it has a bit of resistance(because it's crooked and the socket is straight).Then I spliced some 1/2" poly rope to make the leash. Very easy and when you don't need it in there you just pull it out and throw it on the work bench, no harm to the PA.

Doesn't your PA already have the rod bungee tie downs factory installed?

Its a great design but it sucks..................speaking from experience of course.

I did something very similar and had such bad results that I decided to leave it as it was built. The problem with this idea is that now every little piece of trash, weed, grass, etc. that could have simply run through the tube past the impeller and into the tank will be help up at the screen. One piece will turn into two, two into three and so on and so forth and before you know....BLOCKAGE:mad:

Again, its a great design/idea but the reality is that it will only work until small particles start to jam up against the screen. I'm speaking from experience and nothing else. I've got a few things that I'm working on to help prevent weeds and crap from being sucked into the pump...........I'll peep you posted.

Good call, I was kinda worried about that. I've been lucky so far. I took it to the bay through a bunch of eel grass. My pump was fine but my buddy's pump got clogged. Only used it once in LJ, no issue yet. I was thinking about making a some larger holes in the mesh and hopefully smaller stuff can get through. Thanks for the response, I'll keep testing idea's as well

Found this baby cup holder to be very useful for any kayaker or proangler owner. The clamps open about 3inch max and has a powerful rubberize clamping. Not to mention it's plastic so no rust to worry about. It comes with 2 cup holder and a twist know to tighten the clamp to a bar handle or any part of the kayak that is less than 3inch. For $7 it's cheap and can be your great add on to any kayak that need drink holder.

Here's an example.

Nice I'll have to see if this will work on my Mk x factor thanks for the idea


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I have just used simple screen door mesh. I replace it every time I head out. Its cheap and takes 1 minute to do. I found that if I left it on and there was some gunk on it from a previous trip it would clog easier.

Adjustable DIY heavy duty cart Hobie revise
 

Here's a DIY for anyone that wants scupper adjustable plug in cart with the ability to exchange any wheels to haul their kayak on the beach or terrains.

Equipment needed (home depot)
QTY: Material Price
1 3/4 in. x 10 ft. Electric Metallic Tube Conduit 3.64
1 5/8x11 by 24 inch length threaded rod stainless steel 4.54
1 5/8x11 by 36 inch lenght threaded rod stainless steel 6.98
8 5/8x11 nut 8 x 0.35 = 2.80
8 3/4 washer 8 x 0.40 = 3.20
2 10-1/2 in. x 3-1/3 in. Flat-Free Tire for Hand Trucks (300lbs payload per wheel) 2 x 24.99

Total Price = 71.16 before tax

Finish product
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps2ca1a11a.jpg

Cut the pipes into 36"
Then use pipe bender to bend to 45 degrees, I mark about 8.25inch from the bottom of my 36" pipe to start my first bend. then 16.30" for the 2nd bend. This allows for my 11 1/2" gap for the scupper plug with my 36" 5/8" threaded rod.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psdba37ca1.jpg

Use a center punch to start my drill place, and after that, start with my small drill bit and step step to drill my to my 5/8 hole diameter.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psec792c3b.jpg


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps9d86f3fe.jpg

Then I test the assembly after drilling all my holes for the wheel axle and the supporting/resting bar.
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psa092fcee.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps45787f78.jpg

With the left over 40" pipe I trim it down t 24" and added it as a sleeve to help distribute the load over the axle in case it bows.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps1bb355c0.jpg

Also, in case I need to change out the wheels for beach wheels, its easy to just unscrew and place the beach wheels due to my long thread.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps97d736dd.jpg

It's my 1st attempt at pipe bending. I'll be adding some PVC/pool noodle to top supporting rod to minimize any scruff mark on the kayak.

Just some helpful criticism. The Wheel on the left will always work loose since it's spinning ccw. The pinched bends probably reduced your weight capacity quite a bit.

Seems like blocked intake is easier to resolve than clogged pump.

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If small debris is jammed up against the mesh how are you going to get it out?

Well, I could try removing the intake assembly from the livewell and blowing back through it, and shake it underwater. Worst case I would need to take the end off.

Hell, the whole intake assemblies cost less than $8. You could carry two if it was giving you a lot of trouble.

Although I agree that if you are going to put mesh over the intake, then the approach of putting it at the very front/outside, rather than an inch inside would probably be less likely to get blocked and easier to clean, although more work to install.

One could probably use something like the stainless steel drain strainer at the bottom of the scupper, rather than in the intake.

Maybe this is not really necessary. Are you suggesting that if the intake gets blocked it will burn out the pump? Otherwise, it does seem better to be safe than sorry.

My approach is much simpler. Yes the screens get plugged up and there is not much you can do to prevent this. Rather than try to prevent this problem, I have discovered an easy and quick way to unplug a blockage.

I keep a little piece of plastic pipe in my tank that easily fits into the intake hose inside my tank, (see photo).
P1020503.jpg
Whenever something gets plugged up, I simply insert the pipe in the hose and blow some air through the system. If you need to quickly prime the pump, just suck a little water back and you are good to go.

Bob

simple fix....
 

The nylon lint traps are the way to go. about $2 for two and a zip tie. no fuss, no worries, and more importantly no clogs.

Another adjustment for the bait tank is an extension to the out-flow. This allows the tank to fill an additional 1-2 inches. I stow it in the bait tank. When I need more water in the tank I slide it on.

After fishing, I generally pull down to the end of the ramp rather than risk a heart attack pulling my loaded PA14 back to the lot. The PA slides easily onto my roof rack -- TOO easily. On a steeper than usual ramp once, it almost slid all the way off, onto my hood and then nosefirst onto the ramp. I also needed a way to protect the paint on my Highlander's spoiler. Here are my two solutions:

To protect the spoiler and help keep the PA from sliding off sideways, I glued ans screwed two short pieces of scrap 2x2 to an old cutting board (plywood woul work as well) and then bent two strips of steel strapping into squared-off hooks to slip around the rear crossbar. Here's that innovation: (Excuse the pre-dawn lighting)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psdcb64448.jpg

Then, to keep the kayak from moving forward - or sideways in crosswinds - I cut another piece of wood into a tapered shape to loosely match the mirage drive well and bolted it to the front crossbar.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ps84f6622e.jpg

Now, I can rest the nose of the PA between the two cutting board guide rails, lift the stern and simply slide the 'yak forward until the drive hole drops onto the front safety block.

I then remove the cutting board, tie the 'yak down with straps and two front ropes.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psaa23c18e.jpg

Voila! That PA isn't going anywhere!

a picture's worth 1000 words.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/suqupa9a.jpg
Built a card to carry the yak and store my gear and others items. The nice thing is that it rolls around and move out of the way when I need it to and then when I lift the yak into rafters the foot print is not that big and I have another work table.


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Does the cutting board lay flat against the roof and spoiler distrubituing the weight, or is there a block under the front of the board to keep the weight off of the spoiler?

I too tried that route using many configurations, screen at the top, bottom, inside and out. Each one had similar results, I am back to an open tube.