Thanks for the video- we can all learn from it......yea I looked at it the video twice...and the wave didn't seem all that big...this would be my suggestion...timing of course is everything...but that said...
I would say to wade out a little deeper..to knee or more instead of mid shins...tie everything down ...when the wave hits lean more forward and make sure the paddle is in the water and punch hard through the white water and keep paddling like crazy knowing if you stop you are cooked... you had to hesitated for a couple of seconds because you hat almost fell off and you stopped paddling and that was it...was over because you were sucked backwards...you did keep the kayak perpendicular to the wave in the beginning which is critical...Jim, Kevin, Larry and Josh are the experts and they probably have better advice...
and do NOT feel bad check out this video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq6gL...eature=related
here is a video I found but the surf is nothing in the example ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LLg3Z6GHjo