|
Depends on where you are... Hawaiians will measure from the median to peak. So 4' Hawaiian is actually 8' here. What you're noticing is the discrepancy between swell height and wave height, which has everything to do with bathymetry and wave period. Swell is measured trough to peak. A 4' swell can easily make a 10' (face) wave if it is long period swell hitting a deep water reef. Conversely, a 4' swell with mid to short period hitting a shallow sandbar may only create a 3' face wave because the energy is dissipated by the bathymetry of the shoreline. A three foot swell at 20 second interval can make a big freaking wave if there is an underwater canyon funneling the swell, such as at the shores launch or blacks.
|