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Old 12-23-2015, 02:40 PM   #26
Fomen
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 40
Battery (I know this is old)

So here's my $.02 on this. I poise a question. Why would Hobie use a 500 gph bait pump designed to run with 12 VDC, and run it off of a 6 volt battery? I already know the answer, and I'm not really asking the question. By running the pump with 6 VDC, it restricts the water flow. It's an alternative to running the pump the way it was designed and using a ball valve to restrict the flow. Now using an electrical component under it's suggested voltage rating won't hurt it. If you were pushing more than 12 VDC (say 14-16 VDC) you would fry it. Also, an electrical component is only going to pull the amperage it needs. That's why you can hook the same bait pump up to a deep cycle SLA cranking battery on a boat, and it still works without frying.

I my opinion, this is lame! The battery compartment on the bait tank is designed around the dimensions of the inadequate battery. The overboard discharge tube in the bait tank is adjustable to accommodate variables in water flow. It could easily keep up with the 12 volt battery running the pump at full bore. I've searched high and low for a 12 volt battery with the same dimensions and amp hours, but to no avail. But then again, the battery compartment isn't water tight anyways. If you roll your kayak, it's going to get wet (even with the designed configuration from Hobie). If you wanted to use a larger 12 volt battery, then remove the protective cover from the bait tank, and strap it straight down. You're out there to fish- not win a fashion show. Who cares if it doesn't look as aesthetically pleasing as the designed configuration.

As far as waterproofing splice connections- if the marine grade butt splices are utilized properly; not only are they impervious to water penetration, they will last forever. The key is what you use to shrink them down. NEVER, EVER, EVER use a lighter or a butane torch. They get too hot, too fast. And they heat the splice unevenly. They also have a tendency to scorch and ruin the material. ALWAYS use a heat gun. Harbor Freight sells a heat gun that is AWESOME! http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-wa...160-69343.html This heat gun has 12 different settings so you can heat shrink the small delicate stuff all the way up to the high voltage electrical heat shrink. If using the marine grade heat shrink butt splices, heat them until you see the inside of the butt splice start to liquefy and adhere to wire. Make sure your stripped wire end is long enough to bottom out to the center of the butt splice, but short enough that there's not a shiner hanging out of the butt splice. It's VERY easy to find the proper length. Tightly trist the stranded wire together before crimping. And use a proper crimping tool. Make sure it's designed to be used with insulated cripms. If you perforate the shrink material on the butt splice, you've defeated the whole purpose of what you're doing. ESPECIALLY inside of the bait tank. You have salt water sloshing around the whole time, and when you mix salt water with DC current, it creates massive electrolysis on the wire. This accelerated corrosion. Copper corrodes at a molecular level. That's why when your components stop working, and you strip back the wire, you see that red dust come off of the copper wire. That's the copper equivalent of rust. Just replace the whole length of wire at that point. As far as you start to trim it back, you're going to find that red crap inside.

Anyways, enough of my rant about that. The point I'm trying to make is Hobie is lame for designing the bait tank around a 6 VDC battery and using a 12 VDC bait pump. Like I said, just my $.02 though.
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