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I love that place and I hate that place and your video perfectly captures the reasons for both feelings. In most surf landings you can sit outside the surf line and paddle like hell between sets through the danger zone, but at San O those rogues can pop up anywhere within 1/4 mile from shore. I used to pick my days very carefully there and I would have aborted in the parking lot on the day of your video Greg,
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"When beholding the tranquil beauty and brilliancy of the ocean’s skin, one forgets the tiger heart that pants beneath it; and would not willingly remember that this velvet paw but conceals a remorseless fang. "
— Herman Melville
Y'all come see me now, hear!
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