https://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/th...ontauk.694904/
Whaler Montauk would be a good choice, unsinkable and great resale value.
Other then that I'd check out the aluminum bayrunners as its a lot less work to maintain those.(no worries about fiberglass cracking, plywood inside rotting or gel coat wearing down),
You will be hard pressed to find something in decent condition around 8k without having to put a lot of money into it on the back end. Boats are expensive, more you spend on the front end the less you will have to deal with on the back end. All the things that make it dialed in for ocean fishing cost a lot of money so buying one that is already dialed in will save you lots of money on the back end.
How I would look at a used small boat:
1 Engine - A healthy engine is most important as it is most of the value of used older boat. An 8000$ boat is worth 500-700 without a running engine. Check to make sure there is good compression and I would stick to Fuel Injected electric start 4 stroke motors if possible. 2 stroke would be cheaper but its more noisy and you have to always mix oil into your fuel and they are touchy if you don't know what you're doing. Fuel injected is more reliable as carburetors get clogged or de-tune over time.
Make sure shifting is smooth and listed to how the engine runs. Make sure the trim goes up and down smoothly as well. Check how it steers and if the power steering makes noise or leaks.
2 Hull - Shape and condition - Hull shape will determine if it is ocean boat or a boat that is meant for the lake. Research what you want for what you are using it for. The taller the bow the better it will take swell but the heavier the boat will be.
Inspect the hull for soft spots or repairs. Usually places like the transom are fiberglass over plywood. If the plywood gets wet, it will begin to rot and create soft spots. Same with any fiberglass that crack from stress can create soft spots.
3 Electrical - Boats are notorious for DIY electrical work. Make sure everything is wired correctly with marine wiring. Even with proper work over time can go bad over time. Salt water kills everything so test every little switch and button.
Bilge pump and backup bilge pump. Float switch is a plus.
Also this is where all the features can add $$$. Windlass (anchor puller), radar, sonar, side scan, auto pilot, deck lighting, livewell pumps, tachometer, radio, speakers.
4 Gas Tank - Will determine your range, but also older boats may need the gas tank replaced. Do a little research on this as well, depending on what kind of gas tank some will corrode. I don't know enough about this subject but I hear that they have to pulled about every 15/20 years so if you're buying a 20 year old boat, the whole floor may need to be pulled out to replace the gas tank.
5 All the little things, rod storage, bait tank, anchor with appropriate amount of chain and rope, safety equipment, vhf radio, life jackets, dock ties, deck lights, tower/shade canopy, tackle storage, gaff, bait net, compass, trolling motor, kill bag/cooler, bumpers.
Don't forget to inspect the condition of the trailer. This is another place where costs can add up.
Anyways that's just a gist, I kinda overcommitted to this write up and lost steam. Forgot how extensive this topic is so I'm sure I missed a few things. Best thing you can do is pay a surveyor 100$ to check the boat and possibly save you thousands in the long run if you are not knowledgeable about boats.
EDIT:
Some boats in your price range:
Bayrunner
Whaler Montauk
Bayliner Trophy
Skipjack (know what you're getting into on this one, older boat, more features, more shit to break, often inboard engine which is hard to access/work on in some cases. if its inboard then you also have to worry about the outdrive)