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I've primarily surf launched, only a handful of times have I gone out in the harbor. The one thing I try to keep in mind is that every time you have to be on point and not get lazy. This means leashing or stowing everything on launch, even if you don't roll or tip, breaking through waves will pass a wall of water over your yak and you can lose gear. One of the first times I went out I had my lunch sitting in my tankwell next to my crate. My crate was all secured but my lunch was just sitting there, and after a couple hours I went to grab a snack only to find no lunch sack. It's safe to safe that on launching it was swept off the yak since that was the only real adventure I had up to that point.
I agree with what everyone has said though, it's all about patience and picking your timing. I've never waited as long as 45 minutes, but I've never showed up and just raced out. I always take some time to look at the sets and where they're breaking, it's always easier to launch with the right timing and in the right part of beach.
As far as drive goes, I always launch with my drive out, just what I was taught when I went out with more experienced kayakers. I find I have more immediate control of the yak with my paddle and better holeshot on speed. I always put my drive in immediately past the breakers then will use both to get me a little deeper quicker. A lesson learned from Malibu when I thought I was past the breakers and started situating gear on the kayak only to have a huge rogue wave build and break with me right in the zone. After I got to my feet and righted my kayak the dragged myself to shore, I logged it a lesson learned. I take the drive out on the way in, if something were to happen I'd hate for the kayak to get out of my hands with the drive in if the fins came loose and were down in only a foot of water. I try to be as careful as possible, partly because I don't want to get hurt but mostly because the cost of replacing broken gear draws from my "saving for a PA fund."
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