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What I do now is that I time the wave in, peddling like crazy (no paddle out at all) trying to follow the back of a wave. Usually, I can keep my speeds high enough to get through before the next one. When I get to waist high water, I jump out. As I get to thigh high water, I'll disengage the drive, pull it out and then pull up the rudder.
In your video, you pulled out the drive and rode the wave sideways for a while. That's what scared me because I'd probably flip over. You seem more experienced.
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