That was the best post ever!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYqcHE4WVSs#t=143
"Landings can be exciting too, im sure all of you have seen frank wiredantzs video of me eating it in the surf possibly the greatest video of all time. I honestly dont see why its funny but other people seem to think so. That happened because i had lost my paddle earlier in the day bad timing and i got caught in the kill zone with no way to back up or turn around. Since then i havent had any crashes that i can remember....i like to come in sideways and brace into the oncoming waves all the way in, it seems to work."