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Old 05-08-2018, 11:27 AM   #7
ProfessorLongArms
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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My experience has been that anywhere in the north is just unforgiving. Short intervals and big swells are a nonstarter

Most of those spots are just about learning to read the sets. It can be very hard to spot the lull, and I’ve been rolled in both directions thinking that the last wave had gone... since then, I’ve learned to sit right outside break and back paddle until I’m well into a lull, and also to brace broach if I do get caught in any kind of wave. It’s a lot trickier in an outback because that thing is a turtle, but I’ve successfully braced several waves up there coming in, and it’s muuuuch easier than trying to shoot straight in without getting turned sideways
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