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Josh, I read your post with out seeing who it was. 1/2 way thru I guessed it was you.
I took a massive wipe out surfing the north jetty of Humboldt Bay. Broke my leash. Swam in thru huge walls of white water. Got to the sand in sprinted down the beach, out the jetty, and dove in to get my board that was getting pull out to sea in the rip that runs out along the jetty. Swam hard, got the board, n rode a massive wave in at about sun set. Damn I was stupid.
Mike
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