windswell is the short interval stuff produced by local winds or nearby fronts.
groundswell is the more organized long period stuff that comes in sets.
while timing can be tough some days, there are things you can do to help.
First, wade yourself out holding the front handle of your kayak in one hand and your paddle in the other. lift your bow when white water comes so you don't douche your deck or reels. wade out till you are up to your waist or even deeper. Then worry about timing it. Jump on after a set or when it looks clear and paddle like hell. If you have to take some on the chest, make sure you have some forward momentum....the second you get pushed backwards, you're hosed.
Everyone has a different landing style. I vary mine for whatever swell is in the water....recently is has been lots of windswell, so I go for the paddle in till I'm tits deep and then jump out, grab my rear handle and start moving towards shore. If a wave comes, I lift the rear of the kayak out above the breaking wave to keep it from catching it and pulling forward.
When I fish with my friend Kirk, I always land first so I can help him clean up all his shit.
jusk kidding Kirk, not really.
Watch the tourists in the big red boats. 99% of them wipe out in knee high water the second they get a little side ways.
good luck.