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Old 02-03-2016, 06:48 PM   #13
chxh8me
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Thousand Oaks
Posts: 182
Unfortunately I stripped everything off the other day, then lost all the screws to put it back together. So hopefully it makes sense.

Anyways, here you go. Half inch PVC (painted black). 2 metal T brackets with some plastic spacers (for hinge) and 1 L bracket (for transducer).

The 1/2 PVC fits into a scotty mount base. What I did was drill a hole thru the base and thru the pvc, then used a metal clip to hold it in place. A second clip locks the transducer arm in the lowered position (through the T bracket).

Previously I had the FF mounted onto a piece of cutting board, which was mounted into a Scotty FF mount, then placed into the center hole on a Scotty triple mount with the transducer mounted in the side hole of the mount. But now I am going to attach the arm directly to the FF mount/cutting board with a couple of screws so I can put it on my float tube.
The extra transducer cable was bundled into the clear container, then velcroed to the triple mount. You could also bundle the excess and stick it inside a hatch.

Attaching the FF and arm on one mount would make it a quick to remove and stow when the waves are up, or give you the possibility of mounting it elsewhere (rental boat) assuming the arm is long enough.

I saw you already mounted the FF on the center hatch, but its worth thinking about mounting it all together and using a Scotty base mount on the flat deck space where your foot well ends. Then it will all be out of your paddle stroke range, and the FF wont be right in your crotch. The Elite 5 screen is big enough that you wont miss anything on the screen having it that far forward.

You could also use heavy duty velcro inside your hull to keep your battery box from sliding around.
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