Spineless...... - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

alanw · 08-22-2018, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kayak_Bernie

Haha, you have obviously never met Mitchell

Actually I have met him, and seen his canoe.. So yea you're right, I shouldn't have said anything - Mitchell is gonna do what Mitchell is gonna do

Hunters Pa · 08-22-2018, 02:04 PM

I would have opted for dropping a scrap piece of blank tip through the larger of the two broken pieces so the taper would fit snug against the inside of the broken tip piece as well as the larger piece. This should splint better as it would be in contact with more surface area on both sides of the break as well as still flex some. Could split an inch or so of blank to splint the outside as well and wrap over it.

Then again, may be really hard to do the inside one if all you could fit was 1/16" metal rod.

MITCHELL · 08-22-2018, 04:33 PM

In case there's a point break

MITCHELL · 08-22-2018, 06:40 PM

Stayed bent

now I will have a two piece stiff graphite rod .i May not be the sharpest tool in the sheld but i no there is no success without failure.

MITCHELL · 08-23-2018, 04:04 AM

Needs stiffer rod....

MITCHELL · 08-31-2018, 04:41 AM

Barnum & Bailey...

tacmik · 08-31-2018, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MITCHELL

Stayed bent

now I will have a two piece stiff graphite rod .i May not be the sharpest tool in the sheld but i no there is no success without failure.

.

Remember. The sharpest tool with all their fancy degrees look at something or try to solve a problem and when they can't, say it cannot be done. Us that have had to make do all our lives, keep trying until the problem is solve. Keep trying Mitch, you will fix it or solve it.

MITCHELL · 08-31-2018, 08:04 AM

I wish I would have heat treated the rod first it would have hardened it instead of soft and bending like a wire just to sea...

WestFork · 08-31-2018, 08:42 PM

I have added a ferrule to a one-piece blank, Duke, by cutting out about 1/4 inch of the blank at the desired point for the ferrule, then inserting in from the rod butt a 2" to 3" long piece of solid glass or graphite rod which matches the rod taper. About half of this ferrule would project into the tip section after it was secured into the butt section with epoxy. Sturdy wrap over both the butt of the tip section and the tip of the butt section followed.
I was never comfortable really loading up a rod with this sort of ferrule, but with the right material the ferrule flexed nicely and gave a smoother curve for ultralight fishing. It looked classy, too!
Ymmv. :-)

kirkdavis · 09-01-2018, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MITCHELL

I wish I would have heat treated the rod first it would have hardened it instead of soft and bending like a wire just to sea...

Instead of hardening, start with spring steel. I think I like the other gent's idea of a fiberglass or carbon insert though.

08-22-2018, 06:40 PM	#4
MITCHELL Sea Hunter Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Where ever I may roam where I lay my head I call home. Posts: 2,296	It broke....no flex in stainless rod Stayed bent now I will have a two piece stiff graphite rod .i May not be the sharpest tool in the sheld but i no there is no success without failure. __________________ Duke Mitchell Last edited by MITCHELL; 08-22-2018 at 07:13 PM.

08-31-2018, 08:04 AM	#8
MITCHELL Sea Hunter Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Where ever I may roam where I lay my head I call home. Posts: 2,296	Thanks Mike I wish I would have heat treated the rod first it would have hardened it instead of soft and bending like a wire just to sea... __________________ Duke Mitchell

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08-22-2018, 02:04 PM	#2
Hunters Pa Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fullerton Posts: 1,361	I would have opted for dropping a scrap piece of blank tip through the larger of the two broken pieces so the taper would fit snug against the inside of the broken tip piece as well as the larger piece. This should splint better as it would be in contact with more surface area on both sides of the break as well as still flex some. Could split an inch or so of blank to splint the outside as well and wrap over it. Then again, may be really hard to do the inside one if all you could fit was 1/16" metal rod.

08-31-2018, 08:42 PM	#9
WestFork Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Utah Posts: 46	I have added a ferrule to a one-piece blank, Duke, by cutting out about 1/4 inch of the blank at the desired point for the ferrule, then inserting in from the rod butt a 2" to 3" long piece of solid glass or graphite rod which matches the rod taper. About half of this ferrule would project into the tip section after it was secured into the butt section with epoxy. Sturdy wrap over both the butt of the tip section and the tip of the butt section followed. I was never comfortable really loading up a rod with this sort of ferrule, but with the right material the ferrule flexed nicely and gave a smoother curve for ultralight fishing. It looked classy, too! Ymmv. :-)