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05-28-2020, 11:47 AM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 901
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Hobie switches suck and fail.
I just cut out the hobie switch and rewired my bait tank so that it is hard-wired. Some put in a different type of switch. Also possible the pump is dead or impacted bad with eelgrass. Last edited by ctfphoto; 05-28-2020 at 02:32 PM. |
05-28-2020, 02:42 PM | #2 | |
Xcoastie
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Westminster
Posts: 285
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Quote:
I’ll second this. There’s to many connection points inside the livewell that will fail. By pass the switch and use marine heat shrink over all connections. Here’s 1 more thing to check. Or avoid doing. I used to just shut the bait tank pump off when I was done. Leaving the tank full of bait. Draining the tank through the pump without a screen caused my pump to get clogged with scales. And would not run. Now I have a small piece of kitchen sink screen and a threaded 3/4 piece of pvc covering the pump output. Stops crap from flowing into the pump and getting stuck. These are readily available and work to. It’s a livewell aerator strainer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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05-28-2020, 02:53 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Rancho Cucamonga
Posts: 608
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A few options. Should be simple to diagnose.
First thing test the battery to see if it has the minimum required voltage to power the pump, and it isn't dead despite being charged. Next inspect all of the wires between the battery terminals and the pump. make sure there are no breaks in any of them. Then test the switch for continuity on both sides when it is in the on position --if you have continuity, check the wire between the switch and the pump again, inspect it for any breaks, check each end of that wire for continuity. If you have continuity from the hot side of the switch all the way to the pump then you have a pump problem. If there is a break in continuity from one side of the switch to the other you have a bad switch If there is a break in continuity from the switch to the pump then the wire is not transmitting power to the pump Check these things and see if it fixes the problem. If you check the switch and wire and fix them, and it still doesn't work, then you had both a power/continuity problem and a pump problem.
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05-28-2020, 06:14 PM | #4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 183
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Quote:
If the pump failed would it still make noise when it turned the switch on. Mine currently makes no noise when switched on? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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05-28-2020, 06:42 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 901
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You would have to cut the wires and direct connect the pump to a good battery to find out for sure. I have failed pumps make noise and some just die and make no noise.
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05-28-2020, 07:57 PM | #6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 424
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Quote:
If the impeller is physically jammed/clogged, it might make a light hum or vibrate slightly. If the impeller is seized, then it might not make any noise at all, but the pump should get slightly warm to the touch after having power to it for a bit, which means it's at least getting power. If the impeller shaft is broken, it should rattle around like there was gravel in it when turned on, but may not pump water. If you have no noise at all, no warmth to the touch after having it turned on for a bit and no vibration, my assumption would be that it's not getting power. That said, I would try looking at the wires and connections first using SoCalEDC's advice. Especially making sure the battery is good first and foremost. Then go from there. Also, don't keep power going to the pump when it's out of water for too long. If it's not already seized, then that might cause it to seize! I'll admit, I have decades of experience dealing with different kinds of pumps working in the aquarium trade, not 100% sure if that experience applies to these livewells! Good luck getting it up and running! From what I hear about that model Hobie, it's more than likely a faulty or corroded switch. |
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