Help with battery box - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

FARRIER · 08-22-2010, 03:46 PM

I noticed that i was having issues turning on my ff. My deck connections for my battery box were getting corroded. I just learned about dielectric grease so I will be trying that. But my revo tends to get some water in it throughout the day as I open and close hatches and going through the surf. So I upgraded my connections. any advice on storing the male connector inside the hull? I'm gonna maybe use some 3m adhesive clips to keep the connector off the bottom of the yak when in storage and nitirle gloves with rubber bands when not in use to prevent salt creep/rust. any other ideas???

GregAndrew · 08-22-2010, 04:36 PM

A baggie with a rubber band, or make a rubber female plug to connect, using dielectric grease, when not in use.

WahooUSMA · 08-22-2010, 04:44 PM

Where did you find that deck connector? Seems like I have to R/R my connectors yearly...

FARRIER · 08-22-2010, 05:07 PM

west marine at a whopping 17 bucks but i figured id give it a try. I know that a lot of this stuff needs to be replaced from time to time. But I'm sure I could do a better job caring for my stuff.

dsafety · 08-22-2010, 08:43 PM

One of the most import things to remember if you want to reduce the amount of corrosion is to disconnect the battery when you yak is in storage. A current going through the FF cable, even if it is not connected to the device will cause the connectors to oxidize at an accelerated rate.

Bob

PescadorPete · 08-22-2010, 09:06 PM

I stuff my battery in a Target lunch bag, with a couple of clips onto the battery.

newguy01 · 08-23-2010, 05:46 AM

first thing you have to do is get the terminal and connector lube with dielectric grease before it get saltwater on them if thats to lates clean em with vinegar then grease and if your storing the box inside the kayak always make sure battery is disconnected and for moisture control leave the or crack the hatch open so the air can circulate. thats what i do i dont even cover the connector but i am pretty sure covering it will help just my 0.2$

cowboybill · 08-23-2010, 06:23 AM

Hey Farrier, I use dialectric grease like toothpaste.....every connection, even inside the battery box...

On my new connections, like inside the plug, I jam dialectric inside, then put any booties over the outside, then seal outside with marine goop...let dry, and then outer coat external connections with more dialectric

Every 5-7 trips, I clean and re-grease just the outside connections.

after about a year, my connections look like brand new...

I think I got the grease at an autosupply place in a huge tube about the size of marine goop

cowboybill

FARRIER · 08-23-2010, 06:30 AM

Thanks you all I used the grease then marine goop and electrical tape to secure the wires. And Im just gonna be more vigilant with the grease and a wire brush.

Mad Daddy · 08-23-2010, 07:13 AM

I have been using a product called Corrosion Block for years. It works really well on all metals to protect from corrosion. I use it on my guns and fishing gear. It is kind of expensive but I you do not have to use much. The pump can I have is four years old. I usually put a little on a small piece of old tee shirt and wipe it on. In tight areas I use a q'tip. I have used it on radio that had a little corrosion causing it to intermittently have problems and it started working again. It is great because after you wipe it on and let it set a few minutes you can wipe off your reels or guns and still the protection remains.

WahooUSMA · 08-23-2010, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowboybill

Hey Farrier, I use dialectric grease like toothpaste.....every connection, even inside the battery box...

On my new connections, like inside the plug, I jam dialectric inside, then put any booties over the outside, then seal outside with marine goop...let dry, and then outer coat external connections with more dialectric

Every 5-7 trips, I clean and re-grease just the outside connections.

after about a year, my connections look like brand new...

I think I got the grease at an autosupply place in a huge tube about the size of marine goop

cowboybill

I use the dielectric grease as well and never leave my battery connected. I even remove my battery from the pelican box and rotate batteries every time I go out. Where I get the corrosion is where the wire's connect to the male adapter. The wires themselves corrode and then break off, which is a total pain in the ass to fix, especially when you get to the launch ramp and have to trouble shoot in the dark. Additionally, 99% of the time when this has occurred (twice), I strip the freeking shit out the the set screws and have to buy a new adapter anyway.

Last season my FF kept turning on and off. I sent it to Lowrance to have checked out and they stated it was operating effectively. It wasn't until I pulled the boot back on the male side of the adapter that I realized the ground wire was corroded and an making an intermittent connection with only a few strands.

lterrero · 08-23-2010, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowboybill

Hey Farrier, I use dialectric grease like toothpaste.....every connection, even inside the battery box...

On my new connections, like inside the plug, I jam dialectric inside, then put any booties over the outside, then seal outside with marine goop...let dry, and then outer coat external connections with more dialectric

Every 5-7 trips, I clean and re-grease just the outside connections.

after about a year, my connections look like brand new...

I think I got the grease at an autosupply place in a huge tube about the size of marine goop

cowboybill

But what can save? my connectors and wires from Electrolysis; at least about every 5 month have replace wire & connectors.

FARRIER · 08-23-2010, 08:32 AM

Yeah wahoo i had the same prob as you. and my hot wire is corroded well past repair which means im going to have to re order a new set for the transducer here eventually. probably gonna be easier to replace the unit with a better one! well lesson learned for me. its tough learning such expensive lessons some times.

Mad Daddy · 08-23-2010, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lterrero

But what can save? my connectors and wires from Electrolysis; at least about every 5 month have replace wire & connectors.

After I strip the coating off the wire I put a drop or two of the corrosion block onto the wire and it seeps down between the wires under the coating. I have to admit that I am new to the highly corrosive salt water environment but the stuff has worked very well for me on all of my things that are subjected to wet environments including my boat which has only been in fresh water. I did check my connector to my battery box in my kayak which has only been used in salt water for two months and they look brand new. I have but did not use the dielectric grease because it is messy. I also let a drop soak into all the rivets on my rod holders and various screws on my kayak to give them added protection after I noticed some brown areas on the washers holding on my handles.

maui jim · 08-23-2010, 08:54 AM

Why use those connectors?? I water tight the cord thru the box and eliminater that problem. I just unplug the battery from the inside the box,(which is stowed below deck) after the day of use open the batery box, and air dry overnight , been using this system over a year and not 1 sign of corosion ,even from the battery. I use a different dry box than Pelican and it's way cheaper and watertite..( after all your not exposing it to any great depths or elevations, just some splashed water and dampness) I use the greese on the above deck connection bi-weekely and no sign of corrosion there either.
When I add a light for nite adventures I simply run the wire thru the same opening on the box and no leaks, and no corrision on the switch, installed above deck for light and sealed with 3M 5200 marine grade sealant fast cure. simple........

FARRIER · 08-23-2010, 05:58 PM

Thank you all for all the replies! After reading about you all having far less problems decided to dig deeper and do some experimenting. i got to the real root of the problem. The fuse was inline with the battery box. And when connected was laying in the water/moisture buildup allowing minor seepage under direct current. 3m hooks will fix this until i can replace or upgrade. I like the comment about not needing the connections. It opened my eyes to putting the connections, fuse, battery in the box using a small wire harness. since i was new to the sport i just bought what was available and didn't really know that it was so easy to install. Mucahs gracias to all the ideas. The BWE thinktank.

GregAndrew · 08-23-2010, 07:48 PM

The problem with making the connections inside the box is that now your box is stuck in your yak unless you have some other connector up the line. I would put the fuse inside the Battery box too. I am currently using some inline brake wire connectors outside both my battery boxes. They are made for trailer hookups so they are designed for weather. I think the actual connection might be made of aluminum.

I use dielectric grease in both the female ends and have not had to replace one yet. I cut the loop towards one end and use the long wired side to mount directly through my box (with Goop) through the fuse (on one pole) to the battery. Then I connect apair of inline wire connecting sleeves on the other side and goop the ends after crimping well. Attach the other side of the sleeve to your FF power wires and Goop again.

08-22-2010, 04:44 PM	#3
WahooUSMA Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Rancho Cucamonga Posts: 753	Where did you find that deck connector? Seems like I have to R/R my connectors yearly... __________________ GO ARMY BEAT NAVY! Bad decisions make great stories!

08-22-2010, 05:07 PM	#4
FARRIER Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Cmont [] Posts: 314	west marine at a whopping 17 bucks but i figured id give it a try. I know that a lot of this stuff needs to be replaced from time to time. But I'm sure I could do a better job caring for my stuff. __________________ "It depends on what the meaning of the words 'is' is." –Bill Clinton

08-23-2010, 05:46 AM	#7
newguy01 Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: S.D. Posts: 133	preventive maintenance? first thing you have to do is get the terminal and connector lube with dielectric grease before it get saltwater on them if thats to lates clean em with vinegar then grease and if your storing the box inside the kayak always make sure battery is disconnected and for moisture control leave the or crack the hatch open so the air can circulate. thats what i do i dont even cover the connector but i am pretty sure covering it will help just my 0.2$

08-23-2010, 06:23 AM	#8
cowboybill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, CA Posts: 103	dialectric grease Hey Farrier, I use dialectric grease like toothpaste.....every connection, even inside the battery box... On my new connections, like inside the plug, I jam dialectric inside, then put any booties over the outside, then seal outside with marine goop...let dry, and then outer coat external connections with more dialectric Every 5-7 trips, I clean and re-grease just the outside connections. after about a year, my connections look like brand new... I think I got the grease at an autosupply place in a huge tube about the size of marine goop *cowboybill*

08-23-2010, 06:30 AM	#9
FARRIER Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Cmont [] Posts: 314	Thanks you all I used the grease then marine goop and electrical tape to secure the wires. And Im just gonna be more vigilant with the grease and a wire brush. __________________ "It depends on what the meaning of the words 'is' is." –Bill Clinton

08-22-2010, 04:36 PM	#2
GregAndrew Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 2,384	A baggie with a rubber band, or make a rubber female plug to connect, using dielectric grease, when not in use.

08-22-2010, 08:43 PM	#5
dsafety Olivenhain Bob Join Date: May 2008 Location: Olivenhain, CA Posts: 1,121	One of the most import things to remember if you want to reduce the amount of corrosion is to disconnect the battery when you yak is in storage. A current going through the FF cable, even if it is not connected to the device will cause the connectors to oxidize at an accelerated rate. Bob

08-23-2010, 07:13 AM	#10
Mad Daddy Father of two Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Corona Posts: 22	corrosion block I have been using a product called Corrosion Block for years. It works really well on all metals to protect from corrosion. I use it on my guns and fishing gear. It is kind of expensive but I you do not have to use much. The pump can I have is four years old. I usually put a little on a small piece of old tee shirt and wipe it on. In tight areas I use a q'tip. I have used it on radio that had a little corrosion causing it to intermittently have problems and it started working again. It is great because after you wipe it on and let it set a few minutes you can wipe off your reels or guns and still the protection remains.

08-23-2010, 08:32 AM	#13
FARRIER Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Cmont [] Posts: 314	Yeah wahoo i had the same prob as you. and my hot wire is corroded well past repair which means im going to have to re order a new set for the transducer here eventually. probably gonna be easier to replace the unit with a better one! well lesson learned for me. its tough learning such expensive lessons some times. __________________ "It depends on what the meaning of the words 'is' is." –Bill Clinton

08-23-2010, 08:54 AM	#15
maui jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cypress, CA Posts: 789	Why use those connectors?? I water tight the cord thru the box and eliminater that problem. I just unplug the battery from the inside the box,(which is stowed below deck) after the day of use open the batery box, and air dry overnight , been using this system over a year and not 1 sign of corosion ,even from the battery. I use a different dry box than Pelican and it's way cheaper and watertite..( after all your not exposing it to any great depths or elevations, just some splashed water and dampness) I use the greese on the above deck connection bi-weekely and no sign of corrosion there either. When I add a light for nite adventures I simply run the wire thru the same opening on the box and no leaks, and no corrision on the switch, installed above deck for light and sealed with 3M 5200 marine grade sealant fast cure. simple........ __________________

08-23-2010, 05:58 PM	#16
FARRIER Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Cmont [] Posts: 314	Thank you all for all the replies! After reading about you all having far less problems decided to dig deeper and do some experimenting. i got to the real root of the problem. The fuse was inline with the battery box. And when connected was laying in the water/moisture buildup allowing minor seepage under direct current. 3m hooks will fix this until i can replace or upgrade. I like the comment about not needing the connections. It opened my eyes to putting the connections, fuse, battery in the box using a small wire harness. since i was new to the sport i just bought what was available and didn't really know that it was so easy to install. Mucahs gracias to all the ideas. The BWE thinktank. __________________ "It depends on what the meaning of the words 'is' is." –Bill Clinton

08-23-2010, 07:48 PM	#17
GregAndrew Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 2,384	The problem with making the connections inside the box is that now your box is stuck in your yak unless you have some other connector up the line. I would put the fuse inside the Battery box too. I am currently using some inline brake wire connectors outside both my battery boxes. They are made for trailer hookups so they are designed for weather. I think the actual connection might be made of aluminum. I use dielectric grease in both the female ends and have not had to replace one yet. I cut the loop towards one end and use the long wired side to mount directly through my box (with Goop) through the fuse (on one pole) to the battery. Then I connect apair of inline wire connecting sleeves on the other side and goop the ends after crimping well. Attach the other side of the sleeve to your FF power wires and Goop again.