Share Your Innovations - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

SABA · 12-17-2012, 10:24 AM

How about a solar Battery charger straped to the deck!! So we can keep charged our 12 volt for longer trips. Also you I phone users to. My girl saw this at Cost Co and wants to use it.

http://www.goalzero.com/

Maybe it will help Cheers

Saba

Baja_Traveler · 12-17-2012, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SABA

How about a solar Battery charger straped to the deck!! So we can keep charged our 12 volt for longer trips. Also you I phone users to. My girl saw this at Cost Co and wants to use it.

http://www.goalzero.com/

Maybe it will help Cheers

Saba

I have a 30 watt flexible panel intended for RV's that I put on the front hatch of my Scupper Pro for extended Baja trips. It connected direct to the finder/bait tank battery to keep it charged. Havent decided yet if I'll set it up on the new PA though - I went the Aussie way and put in a manual whale pump for the bait tank this time, and can charge the finder battery in the truck when it needs it...

MrPatrick · 12-17-2012, 09:13 PM

Please show the whale pump installation. I'm very interested in that.

Baja_Traveler · 12-21-2012, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrPatrick

Please show the whale pump installation. I'm very interested in that.

Here's a few pics of the whale pump install. Its a Whale Urchin from West Marine with 3/4" flex hose from the same source. A piece of 3/4" pvc pipe goes through the scupper hole to a 3/4" street elbow from Home Depot. The pump is easy to reach from the seat and pumps quite a bit of water with each stroke, so 3-4 pumps every 10-15 minutes should keep bait nice and healthy.

fongman · 01-26-2013, 12:10 AM

When a Hobie is cruising above 4 mph, the power produced by the turbo fins forces an excessive amount of water up through the Mirage drive opening. To minimize this, I cut a piece of 1/4" rubber to fit snugly at the end of the drive opening. 2 screws holds it securely to the drive unit. The last picture shows the amount of water in the kayak with the dam in place and peddling about 4.5 mph.

jorluivil · 01-26-2013, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fongman

When a Hobie is cruising above 4 mph, the power produced by the turbo fins forces an excessive amount of water up through the Mirage drive opening. To minimize this, I cut a piece of 1/4" rubber to fit snugly at the end of the drive opening. 2 screws holds it securely to the drive unit. The last picture shows the amount of water in the kayak with the dam in place and peddling about 4.5 mph.

I'll have to assume you're not aware of this but hobie already makes that part for the drives

fongman · 01-26-2013, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jorluivil

I'll have to assume you're not aware of this but hobie already makes that part for the drives

You're right, I didn't know it. I haven't been in a Hobie store in quite a while and when I made it, I don't think there was one available. So..........never mind!

fongman · 01-26-2013, 01:26 AM

When I picked up a Lowrance FF, the shape of the transducer convinced me to try an externally mounted, articulating transducer arm. I used plastic bimini top parts for the pivot points (end caps) and the base (deck hinge). It took a few adjustments to get the correct arm lengths and the proper angle entering the water. The first trials were unsuccessful because at higher speeds, air bubbles would form and cause vertical lines in the display (dropouts).

I'm still not sold on this method because it is more maintenance than a below deck mount. However, it may help give someone ideas for making a portable transducer arm.

inbx3 · 02-02-2013, 09:18 PM

So I was getting tired of having my cradles rotate everytime I hit with my kayak. The Yakima bars are round and no matter how much I tighten them the alwys end up like this.

So I figured there has to be a way to keep them straight so over to Home Depot I went and $8 later here's the finished solution.

I took a couple of 3/4" electrical conduit, cut it to the correct size, drilled a couple of holes in each end to line them up with the J cradles, flattened out the ends a bit and now they don't rotate.

bus kid · 02-17-2013, 02:47 PM

So I'm considering a hobie bait tank, but having the the toro sprinkled head holding my transducer in place no water can get out.
so it was time for a change. I came across a guy that made a custom mount for his here,

http://www.yakangler.com/forum/21-lo...son-kayak-cuda

After looking it over as well as the Lowrance one I decided it cant be that hard to make one that allows water to
flow out if I do decide to get a Hobie bait tank. The Lowrance uses a plastic piece of all thread as well as a "doughnut" to hold the transducer in place which to me seems like a design flaw.
So I got some 1/16 thick aluminum, a 1/4 dia x 1 inch long stainless nut, bolt and lock washers,
a 3/8 by 3 inch long all thread and the nut to go with it. last a 4 square inch 3/16 thick piece of ABS plastic. After all the measuring this is what I came up with.
I plugged the open scupper filled my current bait tank to the brim and let it drain into the well area as the hose was running keeping the tank level for about 20 mins, it didn't flood and looks like this might be a viable option but
without being on the water I'm not 100% sure that it will drain. So some OTW testing will be needed before I commit to the Hobie.

alum stock.jpg

top plug.jpg

unit.jpg

unit and trans.jpg

001.jpg

bottom close up.jpg

bottom front.jpg

bottom side 1.jpg

front to back.jpg

top view.jpg

captnblood34 · 02-17-2013, 06:01 PM

I wanted so bad to have a wet scupper mount application for the deucer but, because of its unnatural bulge, and having to be constantly concious of not dragging it on whatever surface I launch from or my tailgate I decided against it. This is an alternitive that I found works quite well. DUCT SEAL. Its practically play-dough. Except for the fact it can get wet, not harden, holds its shape, causes no permananet damage, isn't messy, etc... Here is how I applied it. I made a little pool around the transdeucer with it and just splash some water in it to help in the temp reading. Even used a little on the bottom of my battery box to hold it wedged in place. This stuff rocks. A 16oz package cost under 3 bones at lowes. Best part is my FF is still in practically new/unused condition. Its just nice to keep nice stuff nice. Hope this is exactly what somebody was looking for!

And the same boys that drag my rig up on the beach after I'm done fishing, helped install the FF! If you got 'em, put 'em to work!

YAK.jpg

YAKK.jpg

YAKKK.jpg

YAKKKK.jpg

YAKKKKK.jpg

bus kid · 02-17-2013, 06:49 PM

The prob I see with the duct seal is that its not strong enough to hold if you put something inside the hatch that can dislodge it, say the wheels off of your cart or a big fish. I also keep a kill bag with ice packs in the hatch which would throw off the temp readings. I have had my transducer thru the scupper since I got the kayak. I transport it in the back of my truck and surf launch and land on a regular basis. You just got to be mindful of it. As you can see its pretty scratched up but it works like the day I got it.

BrokeLoser · 02-18-2013, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bus kid

So I'm considering a hobie bait tank, but having the the toro sprinkled head holding my transducer in place no water can get out.
so it was time for a change. I came across a guy that made a custom mount for his here,

http://www.yakangler.com/forum/21-lo...son-kayak-cuda

After looking it over as well as the Lowrance one I decided it cant be that hard to make one that allows water to
flow out if I do decide to get a Hobie bait tank. The Lowrance uses a plastic piece of all thread as well as a "doughnut" to hold the transducer in place which to me seems like a design flaw.
So I got some 1/16 thick aluminum, a 1/4 dia x 1 inch long stainless nut, bolt and lock washers,
a 3/8 by 3 inch long all thread and the nut to go with it. last a 4 square inch 3/16 thick piece of ABS plastic. After all the measuring this is what I came up with.
I plugged the open scupper filled my current bait tank to the brim and let it drain into the well area as the hose was running keeping the tank level for about 20 mins, it didn't flood and looks like this might be a viable option but
without being on the water I'm not 100% sure that it will drain. So some OTW testing will be needed before I commit to the Hobie.

WOW...I really like this.
Let me know how it works out Bus.

bus kid · 02-18-2013, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser

WOW...I really like this.
Let me know how it works out Bus.

I will post up some OTW video asap slated to work the next 16 days straight

FishNinjaY · 03-07-2013, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bus kid

So I'm considering a hobie bait tank, but having the the toro sprinkled head holding my transducer in place no water can get out.
so it was time for a change. I came across a guy that made a custom mount for his here,

http://www.yakangler.com/forum/21-lo...son-kayak-cuda

I wondered if anyone ever tried running the transducer to a spot on the bottom near a scupper hole, but then used a heat gun to soften the area, and mold inward an indentation, with a glass bottle? This way the transducer would be recessed and not scrape on the sand or ground? Any thoughts?

Baitman · 03-17-2013, 07:08 PM

Two reasons not to do that heat gun trick.
One is it won't work. Memory will push back to original shape,,, only with distortion.
Two, you'll weaken the area.

12-17-2012, 09:13 PM	#3
MrPatrick Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Waiting to launch Posts: 1,381	Whale pump Please show the whale pump installation. I'm very interested in that.

01-26-2013, 12:10 AM	#5
fongman Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 116	Mirage Drive Splash Dam When a Hobie is cruising above 4 mph, the power produced by the turbo fins forces an excessive amount of water up through the Mirage drive opening. To minimize this, I cut a piece of 1/4" rubber to fit snugly at the end of the drive opening. 2 screws holds it securely to the drive unit. The last picture shows the amount of water in the kayak with the dam in place and peddling about 4.5 mph.

01-26-2013, 01:26 AM	#8
fongman Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 116	Externally Mounted Transducer When I picked up a Lowrance FF, the shape of the transducer convinced me to try an externally mounted, articulating transducer arm. I used plastic bimini top parts for the pivot points (end caps) and the base (deck hinge). It took a few adjustments to get the correct arm lengths and the proper angle entering the water. The first trials were unsuccessful because at higher speeds, air bubbles would form and cause vertical lines in the display (dropouts). I'm still not sold on this method because it is more maintenance than a below deck mount. However, it may help give someone ideas for making a portable transducer arm.

02-02-2013, 09:18 PM	#9
inbx3 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: san diego Posts: 144	Yakima J Cradle Fix So I was getting tired of having my cradles rotate everytime I hit with my kayak. The Yakima bars are round and no matter how much I tighten them the alwys end up like this. So I figured there has to be a way to keep them straight so over to Home Depot I went and $8 later here's the finished solution. I took a couple of 3/4" electrical conduit, cut it to the correct size, drilled a couple of holes in each end to line them up with the J cradles, flattened out the ends a bit and now they don't rotate.

02-17-2013, 02:47 PM	#10
bus kid Team Keine Zugehörigkeit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Way out there Posts: 2,854	Wet transducer scupper mount. So I'm considering a hobie bait tank, but having the the toro sprinkled head holding my transducer in place no water can get out. so it was time for a change. I came across a guy that made a custom mount for his here, http://www.yakangler.com/forum/21-lo...son-kayak-cuda After looking it over as well as the Lowrance one I decided it cant be that hard to make one that allows water to flow out if I do decide to get a Hobie bait tank. The Lowrance uses a plastic piece of all thread as well as a "doughnut" to hold the transducer in place which to me seems like a design flaw. So I got some 1/16 thick aluminum, a 1/4 dia x 1 inch long stainless nut, bolt and lock washers, a 3/8 by 3 inch long all thread and the nut to go with it. last a 4 square inch 3/16 thick piece of ABS plastic. After all the measuring this is what I came up with. I plugged the open scupper filled my current bait tank to the brim and let it drain into the well area as the hose was running keeping the tank level for about 20 mins, it didn't flood and looks like this might be a viable option but without being on the water I'm not 100% sure that it will drain. So some OTW testing will be needed before I commit to the Hobie. alum stock.jpg top plug.jpg unit.jpg unit and trans.jpg 001.jpg bottom close up.jpg bottom front.jpg bottom side 1.jpg front to back.jpg top view.jpg __________________ Não alimente os trolls------------Don't feed the trolls---------------インタネット荒らしを無視しろ

12-17-2012, 10:24 AM	#1
SABA Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Port Hueneme CA. Posts: 35	How about a solar Battery charger straped to the deck!! So we can keep charged our 12 volt for longer trips. Also you I phone users to. My girl saw this at Cost Co and wants to use it. http://www.goalzero.com/ Maybe it will help Cheers Saba

02-17-2013, 06:01 PM	#11
captnblood34 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Otay Posts: 704	I wanted so bad to have a wet scupper mount application for the deucer but, because of its unnatural bulge, and having to be constantly concious of not dragging it on whatever surface I launch from or my tailgate I decided against it. This is an alternitive that I found works quite well. DUCT SEAL. Its practically play-dough. Except for the fact it can get wet, not harden, holds its shape, causes no permananet damage, isn't messy, etc... Here is how I applied it. I made a little pool around the transdeucer with it and just splash some water in it to help in the temp reading. Even used a little on the bottom of my battery box to hold it wedged in place. This stuff rocks. A 16oz package cost under 3 bones at lowes. Best part is my FF is still in practically new/unused condition. Its just nice to keep nice stuff nice. Hope this is exactly what somebody was looking for! And the same boys that drag my rig up on the beach after I'm done fishing, helped install the FF! If you got 'em, put 'em to work! YAK.jpg YAKK.jpg YAKKK.jpg YAKKKK.jpg YAKKKKK.jpg

02-17-2013, 06:49 PM	#12
bus kid Team Keine Zugehörigkeit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Way out there Posts: 2,854	The prob I see with the duct seal is that its not strong enough to hold if you put something inside the hatch that can dislodge it, say the wheels off of your cart or a big fish. I also keep a kill bag with ice packs in the hatch which would throw off the temp readings. I have had my transducer thru the scupper since I got the kayak. I transport it in the back of my truck and surf launch and land on a regular basis. You just got to be mindful of it. As you can see its pretty scratched up but it works like the day I got it. __________________ Não alimente os trolls------------Don't feed the trolls---------------インタネット荒らしを無視しろ

03-17-2013, 07:08 PM	#16
Baitman Junior Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 22	Two reasons not to do that heat gun trick. One is it won't work. Memory will push back to original shape,,, only with distortion. Two, you'll weaken the area.