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Old 02-25-2010, 04:01 PM   #1
Japanesezero
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epoxy was a bad idea. dried quick but with the flex in the rubber peeled right off. had to chip it off the screws.... goop has now settled in and is in the process of drying. horray goop!
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:50 PM   #2
Hypoxic1
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Bob,
no, you cant flip the boat and expect the water to stay. My installation is designed to allow for removal of the transducer, and the entire unit for that matter, after landing, without disconnecting any wires, which leads to corrosion, and broken pins.
earlier someone asked if the HD units needed to be thru hull. The answer is no. I used it for the first time today. worked like a champ. was like watching a movie. And as for detail, I saw my fish, dropped on my fish and brought home a 25-27 lb yellow today.
Thanks to the Darkhorse for teaching me how to use this fine tool today
Chris
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:56 AM   #3
Geoffkoop
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Bob,
no, you cant flip the boat and expect the water to stay. My installation is designed to allow for removal of the transducer, and the entire unit for that matter, after landing, without disconnecting any wires, which leads to corrosion, and broken pins.
earlier someone asked if the HD units needed to be thru hull. The answer is no. I used it for the first time today. worked like a champ. was like watching a movie. And as for detail, I saw my fish, dropped on my fish and brought home a 25-27 lb yellow today.
Thanks to the Darkhorse for teaching me how to use this fine tool today
Chris
Damn! What kind of FF are you using? I want to watch YT in HD too
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:49 AM   #4
Scuba
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Great Thread! thanks for posting this.

I just got a new Humminbird 325 in the mail yesterday, I can't wait to install it using this technique!
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:52 AM   #5
rayak
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Really great idea there and a handy introduction to this forum for me. I was planning on gooping mine straight to hull this weekend but after stumbling upon this I'm now sold on the wet box idea.
Just for the record my Garmin 400C manual recommends mineral oil.
Thanks Bob and crew.
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:21 AM   #6
Billy V
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Originally Posted by Hypoxic1 View Post
Bob,
no, you cant flip the boat and expect the water to stay. My installation is designed to allow for removal of the transducer, and the entire unit for that matter, after landing, without disconnecting any wires, which leads to corrosion, and broken pins.
earlier someone asked if the HD units needed to be thru hull. The answer is no. I used it for the first time today. worked like a champ. was like watching a movie. And as for detail, I saw my fish, dropped on my fish and brought home a 25-27 lb yellow today.
Thanks to the Darkhorse for teaching me how to use this fine tool today
Chris
I just wired up the Lowrance HDS-5 on the skiff with the transducer mounted on the transom. I can't wait to test it out, it reads to 6000 ft. with this transducer.
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:45 PM   #7
rayak
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Sorry guys, gonna drag this thread out just a little longer.
After a bit of help. I'm in Perth Western Australia I've sourced some clear acrylic pipe which will hopefully suit the rubber end cap if i can find one. But that's the problem, I'm having trouble tracking down one of these rubber end caps. Can anyone point me in the right direction. If I can't find one here, i'll try to get one online from up your way.

The acrylic pipe if i do get it, is going for $AUS98 a metre and they want me to buy a minimum of 2 metres which is a bit of a low blow. but if i do go with it i'll probably be able to sell it off on one or two of the local forums.

Thanks again.
Ray
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:27 PM   #8
dsafety
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Rayak,

The rubber cap is a standard plumbing fitting available at most plumbing supply places in the US. Do you have what we call "Big Box" hardware stores in Australia that sell every possible item you can imagine for construction and home projects? If so, you should be able to find what you need in their plumbing aisle.

Someone should make a small business out of this. Buy up a bunch of acrylic pipe, rubber caps and hose clamps. Cut the pipe to the appropriate size, package the components up and sell them as wet transducer mount kits. I bet a lot of people would pay $14.99 for $5 worth of parts, especially if they cannot find the materials locally.

Bob
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:09 PM   #9
rayak
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no big box, but thanks, i'll keep looking. i've got a couple of places 'calling me back' so see how we go.
I've managed to find some not acrylic but polycarbonate pipe where i don't have to buy any minimum size. the bloke there is happy for me to take 4 or 5 inches for 10 bucks. I'm sure i'll find the rubber cap somewhere. thanks
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:37 AM   #10
dsafety
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Technical Support Announcement

I went out on Saturday and immediately discovered the my Humminbird FF did not work. It gave a reading of 0.8 ft. This has happened before when I went over the canyon and the sonar lost contact with the bottom but today it gave the same reading all the time.

I spent the entire day peddling blind. Even finding bait was a challenge. I am using this as my excuse for getting skunked on this trip.

I have been using this system for a couple of months and every time I pulled off the rubber cap to check the water, it was full. This trip, I did not check the water before heading out. Bad decision. When I returned home and checked, I found the well was totally dry.

I am not sure why or when the well drained but will be working on figuring that out. Needless to say, checking the water level in the well has been added to my preflight list. If I can find a piece of clear pipe, I will probably pull the ABS well and replace it one of these days.

Bob
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Old 05-30-2010, 06:10 AM   #11
swinginFish
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Keep it simple

I've been using a wet mount for 5+ years - primarily so that I could easily use my ff/transducer on any of the various boats I've had. Point is the cup in which one places the transducer needs to to do two things only, i.e., accommodate the size of your transducer, and contain the signal medium.

I personally prefer round puck-shape transducers, mate an appropriately-sized ABS coupling to the yak's bottom and then epoxy its fitted-edge down to the hull's inside (Have learned that slow-drying epoxy is best - less brittle & more robust bond than quick dry).

Once I'm at the beach, I pour a bit of water into the created reservoir, put the puck in (and attach the ff) and I'm off. It is suprisingly simple and effective for my purposes, with gravity doing its job of holding the puck in place for as long as I'm on the water.

I've now done this on 5 different yaks, and in 5 years the only issue has been when quick-dry epoxy let go after a yak fell hull down from my truck bed to the sand. Flex of the hull broke the seal so water leaked out from beneath the ABS reservoir (If someone's really concerned about this, then I suspect vaseline or grease would continue to work even when the reservoir seal gave way).

As for down sides, as Andy rightly noted, polyethylene's a bit slow to respond to temperature changes, so transducers w/ built in temp gauges sitting or glued inside a craft will respond accordingly.

AE
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Old 06-06-2010, 04:03 PM   #12
Bill K
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I've been having the same problems, with my transducer. It was originally installed, by the Kayak store, with a piece of foam, as the cup, and then vaseline was used inside the cup. It works o.k., until you turn the kayak upside down, then you have vaseline all over the place.
Next try, was with the goop, and then silicone. Both worked for a while, but then I would only get a 0.5 reading. Either, there were bubbles formed, or an adhesion problem.
My last attempt, was the wet well. I used silicone to mount the pvc fitting. It worked great for a few trips, and then stopped. The silicone did not seal well enough, and the water leaked out.
I have to re-do. I am thinking about, going back to the foam cup, and using a 2 part clear epoxy.
Has anyone used the epoxy method?

Bill
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:03 PM   #13
dtownfan
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Quote:
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epoxy was a bad idea. dried quick but with the flex in the rubber peeled right off. had to chip it off the screws.... goop has now settled in and is in the process of drying. horray goop!

i am gonna goop this weekend once i have the yak here. i went to home depot tonight and bought the materials to try making the 3 inch version. i could not get the tranny to sit as level as i can with the four inch. anyway, hopefully there will be room in the hull for my "super sized" wet mount.

i haven't found anything about ideas on treatin the water, but i read somewhere that a garmin wet mount called for mineral oil......this is only what i read though.....no idea if it works or what.
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:39 PM   #14
dsafety
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i am gonna goop this weekend once i have the yak here. i went to home depot tonight and bought the materials to try making the 3 inch version. i could not get the tranny to sit as level as i can with the four inch. anyway, hopefully there will be room in the hull for my "super sized" wet mount.

i haven't found anything about ideas on treatin the water, but i read somewhere that a garmin wet mount called for mineral oil......this is only what i read though.....no idea if it works or what.
I would not worry much about treating the water in the well. A little bleach or pool chlorine every now and then should keep any algae from growing. Even if there is some algae, I doubt that it would be a big deal since the water we fish in often has lots of suspended stuff in it and the sonar still works fine.

Bob
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Old 02-26-2010, 02:59 AM   #15
Japanesezero
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I would not worry much about treating the water in the well. A little bleach or pool chlorine every now and then should keep any algae from growing. Even if there is some algae, I doubt that it would be a big deal since the water we fish in often has lots of suspended stuff in it and the sonar still works fine.

Bob
I will probably still check water levels once a month anyways. Im thinking distilled water and an ounce or two of bleach.
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