Share Your Innovations

[octico]

Originally Posted by Str8shooter

My Hobie PA14 garage lift . . . because its one heavy yak, and available storage space is always a premium.

https://youtu.be/pDucTjFJAMA

https://youtu.be/W_M0uwYlYOs

Very cool

[blitzburgh]

Originally Posted by Str8shooter

My Hobie PA14 garage lift . . . because its one heavy yak, and available storage space is always a premium.

https://youtu.be/pDucTjFJAMA

https://youtu.be/W_M0uwYlYOs

Dude, that is a pro rig right there

[outlawangler]

Short video on rod tip protectors that I added to the Kraken 13.5.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNvhV-v8HOU

[Mr. NiceGuy]

Originally Posted by Str8shooter

My Hobie PA14 garage lift . . . because its one heavy yak, and available storage space is always a premium.

https://youtu.be/pDucTjFJAMA

https://youtu.be/W_M0uwYlYOs

Very nice. Where did you buy your 2" side mount pulleys?
The Harbor Freight electric hoist looks like a good fit for your project.

[kayachapi]

1 1/2" PVC. Magnets from an instant screen.

[jorluivil]

Great start................however, I can't imagine all of the crap that will get hung up on that rod let alone the rust that it will build after a few trips. Why did you not use galvanized material?

[kayachapi]

I didn't think about the crap. The bolt and nuts are 2"x 1/4" stainless. I'm hoping it works. If something hangs up, it will just fall away and my signal will get funky. Then I will re-attach.
slow process shaping the PVC so I hope it works.

[pingpangdang]

Floating livewell from pipe insulation, zip ties, 3 gallon bucket, and screw on top...All parts from home depot for no more than 20.

Kept macs live all day. Easy to put bait in and I drilled holes on top so it would get lighter when lifted on the kayak if I needed to boogie. Enough water inside to keep fish alive before posting up on the next stop. Then tossed it back in the water to float filling up all the way around the holes to give bait more swim space.

No seals ever messed with it. I've upgraded to a diy livewell using a bilge pump...

This would be better in the bay or lakes.

Just a cheap optionuploadfromtaptalk1461297931223.jpguploadfromtaptalk1461297967557.jpguploadfromtaptalk1461298002079.jpguploadfromtaptalk1461298045841.jpg

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Orca Winfrey]

Thanks! Thank really great. Might try it.

[TJones]

There aren't many like it , cause this one is mine . . It has seen many a battery . The first replacement I bought was similar in dimensions and capacity which was rated 7 amp 6 Vlt. I got that battery from fry's electronics for relatively cheap . Yes, 7 amp . That was a long time ago. Of course hobie has upgraded since then to a standard equipped 10 amp battery. Tbe current battery I am using is a Bioenno LIPO4 12 amp. This battery will last me all day and not slow on flow of pump,

[TJones]

What I've realized about these connections, is that they are bulletproof. Even with little care or attention, I have not had any problems. This connector is probably from an 09-10 outback, which was my first Hobie kayak. Yes, I started out on the Dark Side. Anyways, after having so many issues with my fishfinder, I decided to try this connector for my battery power source. I ordered a couple sets of connectors from a dealer and head them shipped. The complete package lists for about 20.00$. The package includes male/ female ends and pre-greased wire caps that even have a dust cap for the back of screw on wire connector . I have never seen this before. To prevent and issues, I also put some marine goop to insure a water tight seal at connection . This should give trouble free operation for more that a year of hard use. Ideally the life of your fish finder. Easily achievable if you do like me, and replace your unit every 6 months. .

[TJones]

Battery in water tight container is for my hobie tank and is s 12 amp Lipo. This battery will run all day.

[TJones]

Standard

[TJones]

If wires

[Wyota]

Looking at all the ideas for battery boxes for fishfinders, I decided to build my own. I started with the math to figure out what size battery I needed for the time I needed on a fishfinder. I then looked at other accessories I might want to add. Livewell pump added more amperage need. Stern light for night ops added even more. bow lights If I so desired added even more. And finally, since I hoop net off the yak, those lights would require even more.

I started thinking of other accessories that could be added, and decided some sort of power distribution box and switches were called for. In order to be able to have any length of time with any heavy power accessories, I knew I might need a sizeable battery. The battery I settled on was a Duracell 14F2 14Ah AGM battery. Too big for any of the little Walmart boxes I see on here, and I didn't want to spend the money for a Pelican box just to cut holes in it.

I originally thought about putting the battery below decks (through the very small hatches mine has), and running switches through the skin of the yak. However, I didn't want to cut into the yak, and as we have 2 of these kayaks, it would be nice to be able to interchange my kit.

So, short story now long, a $5 Walmart Plano ammo box (has o ring lid), some switches, waterproof connectors, and a bus bar from Amazon, and now I have a portable power distribution box with switches that I can run up to 5 12v accessories off of, provided I put the correct plug on the end of the wires. I could even mount the FF to the top of it, but I probably won't as the box can be portable 12v power for a wide variety of things (I could even go to an outdoor party and run music, lights, and other things off the contraption.

Shown setting in Kayak well for size sake. When I actually take it out, it will be strapped down.

[FullFlavorPike]

*slow clap* Kudos to you, sir. That battery box is so awesome, and so doomed to corrosive failure

My rig uses a single voltage divider to split a 12v battery into 6v for the bait tank and 12v for the fish finder. Long story short, even that's too much wiring and I bought a 6v battery so I can rewire the whole system in a simpler fashion.

Unless you goop over all those switches that thing is going to short out in like one trip. Those ammo boxes aren't really that waterproof, either. I don;t mean to be a total hater, because that's an elegant and beautiful rig you built, but it's going to be a pain in your butthole.

[Wyota]

Thanks for the tips, I'll make some refinements and see if I can negate some of that, as I really don't want to be running 5 batteries for 5 systems, and I like a challenge!

I've got a few ideas to shore up the boxes rubber seal from my diving kit (bigger O-rings and silicone keeps water out of some of my stuff at 120 foot depth, I think it can handle the surf) and some sort of "over" rubber around the lid such as an innertube or something.

The switches will be the weak link. I had gooped where the switches went in, and they have the rubber seals and covers, but I'll add extra goop to help out and see if I can shore it up a bit.

I'll update after I have corrected and taken it out this weekend, as well as a couple weeks after that to see how she is holding up at that point.

[Wyota]

Well, based on your advice, I gooped the poop out of the switches (not so pretty now), and I decided to use a liberal amount of dielectric grease on the box seal. Took it out, and while it didn't get a full dunking, it got pretty wet. Appears to be no moisture whatsoever inside the box. Gotta give it a few more days to check for any moisture or corrosion, but appearts to be holding up pretty well. After use, have decided to mount the ff to the top of the box (assuming it passes the longer term corrosion test).

Goop is great!!!!!

Update: 16 days later and nary a bit of moisture or corrosion. I'll keep inspection, grease and regoop as needed as a critical pre op check and it should be fine. Now to build out the light rig.

[Modigity]

Made a bait tank out of a Marine Cooler and copied the workings of the hobie bait tank using the scuppers for water intake and drain. I chose this cooler since it fits snug in the back of the Pro Angler and already had knotches I can put the bungie cords. I also rigged a stadium seat to the back and works perfect for passengers.

[Wyota]

Well, despite being doomed to corrosive failure, the box is still going strong. Replaced a fuse once after letting her sit a while but the o-ringed covers on switches, goop on case rubber switch covers faul, and liberAL use of dialectric grease on the buss inside has kept her looking new. Run lights fishfinder, bait tank and marine radio off it all day with no issues.

Originally Posted by Wyota

Well, based on your advice, I gooped the poop out of the switches (not so pretty now), and I decided to use a liberal amount of dielectric grease on the box seal. Took it out, and while it didn't get a full dunking, it got pretty wet. Appears to be no moisture whatsoever inside the box. Gotta give it a few more days to check for any moisture or corrosion, but appearts to be holding up pretty well. After use, have decided to mount the ff to the top of the box (assuming it passes the longer term corrosion test).

Goop is great!!!!!

Update: 16 days later and nary a bit of moisture or corrosion. I'll keep inspection, grease and regoop as needed as a critical pre op check and it should be fine. Now to build out the light rig.