When I was around 16, me and my friend went out at the wedge in Newport. It was about 10-12 ft which we could handle but didn't know it was a mega building swell.
Soon turned to 15 feet, 20 feet, 25 feet plus. (Barely) paddling over those things I have never felt so insignificant in my life. Took about an hr of that before we could finally make it in without getting slammed by a 25 footer. An unforgettable day. When we saw pros we admired in magazines dropping in on 25 foot plus waves right next to us, we knew we were in over our heads, literally.
But I'll never forget what it looks and feels like looking down the face of a 25 foot wave at the wedge as I barely made it over the top
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06-22-2016, 07:31 AM
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