Share Your Innovations - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

roadx · 09-27-2010, 03:47 PM

THANKS Jim the EMT boom is scrapped. i need to get some hoop time on the kayak and steal your design

.

nice work by the way!!!

fongman · 09-28-2010, 11:43 PM

I wanted to increase the dry storage under the center hatch, so I installed a raised floorboard in my Hobie. It extends from the center support to the seat scupper posts. The tray holders mounted on the sides of the hull keep the floorboard from moving laterally.

It is made out of 1/16" polycarbonate and is very light, yet strong. I covered it with a non-slip, rubber drawer liner. The red circle is where I put an emergency knockout, in case it is necessary to pump water out of the hull. A spade drill bit was used to create the knockout. It was then cemented to another piece of polycarbonate and reattached to the floorboard from the bottom side. A dab of goop on each corner holds the plug in place.

To provide support, I split a 3" section of pool noodle lengthwise and gooped the 2 pieces down the centerline of the hull, at each end of the floorboard. This provides support and allows residual water to flow through.

dsafety · 09-29-2010, 08:03 AM

Fongman, I like the way you think. This is a good idea but it does not fully solve the lack of dry storage problems in Hobies. Raising the platform off the hull is a good first step. The second thing that you have to do is to install barriers on the front and back to keep stuff from sliding out of reach.

I built a similar, (although less elegant) tray for my Revo. I used the lid from a plastic storage container. This lid is approximately 25" x 17" with a 1" lip on the outside edges. To get it to fit through the hatch, I cut it in half. Before shoving the pieces into the kayak, I drilled a few holes on the cut edges. Once the plastic was in place, I ran some zip ties through the holes to reassemble the lid. To finish off, I created a "bulkhead" fore and aft using noodles in hopes that I would be able to keep my gear from sliding out of reach.

My solution is not perfect. The lid slides around a bit and stuff still sometimes slides past the noodle bulkheads. Using your idea of attaching noodle spacers to the bottom of my tray may help keep the thing from sliding around. I know that there is a way to create a better bulkhead which will prevent gear from escaping. I will be thinking about this.

I like your idea. Raising the edges somehow would make it even better. You might also consider drilling some drain holes right under the hatch area since we all know that Hobie hatches sometimes let in a little water when they are opened.

Bob

fongman · 09-29-2010, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsafety

.... The second thing that you have to do is to install barriers on the front and back to keep stuff from sliding out of reach.

I decided to go without a lip on the edge since I don't plan on putting any small stuff on it. The non-slip surface will also keep things in place in all but the snottiest conditions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsafety

.... I know that there is a way to create a better bulkhead which will prevent gear from escaping.

I thought about zig-zagging some light shock cord to hold things in place if things move too much.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsafety

.... You might also consider drilling some drain holes right under the hatch area since we all know that Hobie hatches sometimes let in a little water when they are opened.

The polycarbonate I used is only a 1/16" thick, so I don't want to weaken it with holes. I have a sponge to soak up any water.

scoop · 09-30-2010, 04:48 PM

Recently got myself an ocean worthy kayak (hobie), which means it 2x as heavy as my OK frenzy, and a pig to put on the roof of my car. After googling for a while, I decided to go for a home brew version of the Thule Outrigger, which seemed a little pricey.

Trip to my local Marshalls Hardware in San Diego yielded some appropriate steel.

Sanded and sprayed with some enamel paint.

Fits almost perfectly into the Thule load bar

Covered with a pool noodle, duct tape, and a tennis ball to prevent brain injury

Its now manageable to load my kayak alone. Lift nose onto bar, then lift stern onto rack. I actually made a second, so once its on hull down, its easy to flip it upside down without leaning over the car. Reverse the process for unloading obviously.

I pull them out and put them in the car once loaded/unloaded.

Cost was about $10 per.

tagyak · 10-27-2010, 08:45 PM

i wanted to share with you guys my kayak rack. it may be over the top for some, but for others i hope that you enjoy it.
i used some steel galvanized fence post and some aluminum tubing, which my neighbor was tossing out when he was cleaning out his garage, with brackets to assemble this. it has wheels so that i can move it around in my garage when i need to get behind it, or to wheel it out to load up in my car. wheels really do come in handy.
i also attached some hulley rollers from yakima to the cross bar so that i can easily roll up the kayak onto it. i found the rollers on craigslist for $50.
underneath i covered the bars with hot water insulation from home depot so that i could place my poles onto it. i think it is better than stashing them into a corner in the garage.
hope that you guys like the pictures.

wiseguy · 10-28-2010, 06:13 AM

Very Nice! I want one!

senojmj · 02-09-2011, 12:21 PM

While waiting for the snow to melt, I try to pass the time by reading this forum and especially this thread. I posted a while back that I bought a used trailer and used it last summer. It was great other than I could only carry 2 kayaks and a cargo box. Here is a pic of my original setup. It was a rack setup on the bunks of the trailer.

I wanted to be able to put bikes and camping gear in addition to the 2 kayaks. I also wanted to be able convert it to a utility trailer if I wanted to go to home depot and pick up some wood. I decided I would need a second level to the trailer to hold all that. I removed the bunks and added floor to the frame of the trailer. I looked into some kayak racks that are designed for small boat trailers. They ran about $250 to $400. More than I wanted to spend. I found a ladder rack to be the solution. I bought one for $60 on ebay. It took me a few hours to figure out the best way to install this onto my trailer. This is the end result. I put the kayaks on today to make sure it all fits. I added some iron piping to the bottom for my racks to hook onto.
SAM_0508.jpg

SAM_0512.jpg

SAM_0511.jpg
Room for the bikes in the middle of the top rack

SAM_0513.jpg

SAM_0514.jpg
I bolted the ladder rack to the frame of the trailer.
I think it turned out pretty good and can't wait try it out this summer. When it is all said and done, I spent about $330 for this set up. As always if you have any other ideas please share them!
Jeff

roby · 02-10-2011, 05:28 PM

This isn't really an innovation, but I thought it might help someone. I know the wet mount has been around....

I first mounted my transducer attached to the sail mast of my Hobie Revolution. I zip tied it to the mast and then just added water. It worked, but I didn't like the water in the yak...

I decided to contain the water in some foam.

I bought a foam roller for 10 bucks or so at walmart. After I cut the piece I needed, I jammed it in to the hull of the kayak for extra floatation. Or you can cut and sell more pieces to your non-Hobie friends for $10 a piece. You also can frame the pic of the hot chick on your garage wall.

Cut the transducer section smaller than the actual transducer so the fit is snug.

Take time to shape the foam to match the kayak hull.

I gooped the foam and just added water. The transducer fits in snug and will not come out even if I flip the kayak and shake it, "like a Polaroid camera." I add a water saturated sponge on top just in case the ducer wants to move, but I also use the sponge when I'm done to take out any water from inside the foam.

I have taken it out several times and it works just fine. The water doesn't come out either when I load and unload the yak. If I was to do it over again I would cut the foam at 3 inches or so. I know this wetmount topic is overdone, but just wanted to add.

roby · 02-10-2011, 05:39 PM

Just add-ons for the yak...nothing earth shattering...

I can now use the screw-in pad eye to leash two items.

I use a mesh bag to keep my tackle in when I have the bait tank on the kayak. Fastlane put foam in my yak and it made a barrier around the inside of the hull just above the 8 inch hatch. The mesh bag stays put when I'm on the yak; it doesn't slide around.

Fiskadoro · 09-29-2010, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadx

THANKS Jim the EMT boom is scrapped. i need to get some hoop time on the kayak and steal your design

.

nice work by the way!!!

Hey cool... Hate to see you scrap it. Just trying to help you with what I learned from my mistakes.

Like I said I had to do mine three times before it worked, hoop a while and you'll work out what you need..

Good luck!!!

Jim

roadx · 09-29-2010, 03:53 PM

i appreciate it Jim
the EMT was literally scrap. so no loss there. i modified the pulley block so the rope can be slipped over the pulley without threading it through, similar to yours. the block can be reused when i redesign something similar to the Jim Day hoop net davit. but im sure it will not be as nice as yours.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Day

Hey cool... Hate to see you scrap it. Just trying to help you with what I learned from my mistakes.

Like I said I had to do mine three times before it worked, hoop a while and you'll work out what you need..

Good luck!!!

Jim

09-27-2010, 03:47 PM	#1
roadx . Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,155	THANKS Jim the EMT boom is scrapped. i need to get some hoop time on the kayak and steal your design . nice work by the way!!! __________________

09-28-2010, 11:43 PM	#2
fongman Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 116	I wanted to increase the dry storage under the center hatch, so I installed a raised floorboard in my Hobie. It extends from the center support to the seat scupper posts. The tray holders mounted on the sides of the hull keep the floorboard from moving laterally. It is made out of 1/16" polycarbonate and is very light, yet strong. I covered it with a non-slip, rubber drawer liner. The red circle is where I put an emergency knockout, in case it is necessary to pump water out of the hull. A spade drill bit was used to create the knockout. It was then cemented to another piece of polycarbonate and reattached to the floorboard from the bottom side. A dab of goop on each corner holds the plug in place. To provide support, I split a 3" section of pool noodle lengthwise and gooped the 2 pieces down the centerline of the hull, at each end of the floorboard. This provides support and allows residual water to flow through. Last edited by fongman; 09-29-2010 at 06:32 PM.

02-09-2011, 12:21 PM	#8
senojmj Paddle, Fish, Repeat Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Salt Lake City, UT Posts: 26	Trailer Version 2.0 While waiting for the snow to melt, I try to pass the time by reading this forum and especially this thread. I posted a while back that I bought a used trailer and used it last summer. It was great other than I could only carry 2 kayaks and a cargo box. Here is a pic of my original setup. It was a rack setup on the bunks of the trailer. I wanted to be able to put bikes and camping gear in addition to the 2 kayaks. I also wanted to be able convert it to a utility trailer if I wanted to go to home depot and pick up some wood. I decided I would need a second level to the trailer to hold all that. I removed the bunks and added floor to the frame of the trailer. I looked into some kayak racks that are designed for small boat trailers. They ran about $250 to $400. More than I wanted to spend. I found a ladder rack to be the solution. I bought one for $60 on ebay. It took me a few hours to figure out the best way to install this onto my trailer. This is the end result. I put the kayaks on today to make sure it all fits. I added some iron piping to the bottom for my racks to hook onto. SAM_0508.jpg SAM_0512.jpg SAM_0511.jpg Room for the bikes in the middle of the top rack SAM_0513.jpg SAM_0514.jpg I bolted the ladder rack to the frame of the trailer. I think it turned out pretty good and can't wait try it out this summer. When it is all said and done, I spent about $330 for this set up. As always if you have any other ideas please share them! Jeff __________________ Paddle, Fish, Repeat. Last edited by senojmj; 02-09-2011 at 01:54 PM.

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09-29-2010, 08:03 AM	#3
dsafety Olivenhain Bob Join Date: May 2008 Location: Olivenhain, CA Posts: 1,122	Fongman, I like the way you think. This is a good idea but it does not fully solve the lack of dry storage problems in Hobies. Raising the platform off the hull is a good first step. The second thing that you have to do is to install barriers on the front and back to keep stuff from sliding out of reach. I built a similar, (although less elegant) tray for my Revo. I used the lid from a plastic storage container. This lid is approximately 25" x 17" with a 1" lip on the outside edges. To get it to fit through the hatch, I cut it in half. Before shoving the pieces into the kayak, I drilled a few holes on the cut edges. Once the plastic was in place, I ran some zip ties through the holes to reassemble the lid. To finish off, I created a "bulkhead" fore and aft using noodles in hopes that I would be able to keep my gear from sliding out of reach. My solution is not perfect. The lid slides around a bit and stuff still sometimes slides past the noodle bulkheads. Using your idea of attaching noodle spacers to the bottom of my tray may help keep the thing from sliding around. I know that there is a way to create a better bulkhead which will prevent gear from escaping. I will be thinking about this. I like your idea. Raising the edges somehow would make it even better. You might also consider drilling some drain holes right under the hatch area since we all know that Hobie hatches sometimes let in a little water when they are opened. Bob

09-30-2010, 04:48 PM	#5
scoop Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 60	Recently got myself an ocean worthy kayak (hobie), which means it 2x as heavy as my OK frenzy, and a pig to put on the roof of my car. After googling for a while, I decided to go for a home brew version of the Thule Outrigger, which seemed a little pricey. Trip to my local Marshalls Hardware in San Diego yielded some appropriate steel. Sanded and sprayed with some enamel paint. Fits almost perfectly into the Thule load bar Covered with a pool noodle, duct tape, and a tennis ball to prevent brain injury Its now manageable to load my kayak alone. Lift nose onto bar, then lift stern onto rack. I actually made a second, so once its on hull down, its easy to flip it upside down without leaning over the car. Reverse the process for unloading obviously. I pull them out and put them in the car once loaded/unloaded. Cost was about $10 per.

10-28-2010, 06:13 AM	#7
wiseguy Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Long Beach Posts: 427	Very Nice! I want one!

02-10-2011, 05:28 PM	#9
roby CEO of Team Roby Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 905	This isn't really an innovation, but I thought it might help someone. I know the wet mount has been around.... I first mounted my transducer attached to the sail mast of my Hobie Revolution. I zip tied it to the mast and then just added water. It worked, but I didn't like the water in the yak... I decided to contain the water in some foam. I bought a foam roller for 10 bucks or so at walmart. After I cut the piece I needed, I jammed it in to the hull of the kayak for extra floatation. Or you can cut and sell more pieces to your non-Hobie friends for $10 a piece. You also can frame the pic of the hot chick on your garage wall. Cut the transducer section smaller* than the actual transducer so the fit is snug.* Take time to shape the foam to match the kayak hull. I gooped the foam and just added water. The transducer fits in snug and will not come out even if I flip the kayak and shake it, "like a Polaroid camera." I add a water saturated sponge on top just in case the ducer wants to move, but I also use the sponge when I'm done to take out any water from inside the foam. I have taken it out several times and it works just fine. The water doesn't come out either when I load and unload the yak. If I was to do it over again I would cut the foam at 3 inches or so. I know this wetmount topic is overdone, but just wanted to add.

02-10-2011, 05:39 PM	#10
roby CEO of Team Roby Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 905	Just add-ons for the yak...nothing earth shattering... I can now use the screw-in pad eye to leash two items. I use a mesh bag to keep my tackle in when I have the bait tank on the kayak. Fastlane put foam in my yak and it made a barrier around the inside of the hull just above the 8 inch hatch. The mesh bag stays put when I'm on the yak; it doesn't slide around.