Another Hobie drive well Crack - Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge

JOSER85 · 07-26-2011, 08:24 AM

I guess going to School to work on airplanes is finally going to pay off

Now this method is actually used to temporarily fix acrylic windows on fixed wing aircraft's.

Now try this!
Take a small drill bit (8/32" or so) and drill the ends of the cracks. Make sure you use a strong light under your kayak so you can see were exactly the crack ends. It wont hurt if you go bigger on the hole. This will stop the crack from spreading more through your yak.
Now start drilling hole's about 1/2'' away from the crack on both sides. Use wire/fishing wire and start threading as if you were sewing. Don't go to light on the wire or it will start to cut through the plastic. Also when your threading it make sure it's slightly tight but not to tight.
This will help the crack from not opening under pressure. That's why the epoxy only worked from a few hours.
And that's pretty much it on that. Now you want to use your epoxy and cover the hole's and the sewing you did.
Make sure before you start this whole process to prep the surfs in which you will be working on.

I added this photo so you get a better under standing.

Lets_Fish · 07-26-2011, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOSER85

Now try this!
Take a small drill bit (8/32" or so) and drill the ends of the cracks.

1/4" hole?

Phatford · 07-26-2011, 11:35 AM

The Stop drill at the end of the crack isn't super critical on the size, more important is that you drill Right through the end of the crack, you don't want to give the crack an easy place to start again. I am also an Aircraft Mechanic. You might be suprised how many helicopters are flying now with my Stop drill patches... ha ha

Does Hobie want the Kayak back? Maybe you can fix it... Sell it with full disclosure, and buy a new boat?

JOSER85 · 07-26-2011, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phatford

The Stop drill at the end of the crack isn't super critical on the size, more important is that you drill Right through the end of the crack, you don't want to give the crack an easy place to start again. I am also an Aircraft Mechanic. You might be suprised how many helicopters are flying now with my Stop drill patches... ha ha

Does Hobie want the Kayak back? Maybe you can fix it... Sell it with full disclosure, and buy a new boat?

Not only your Helicopters!

bus kid · 07-26-2011, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phatford

The Stop drill at the end of the crack isn't super critical on the size, more important is that you drill Right through the end of the crack, you don't want to give the crack an easy place to start again. I am also an Aircraft Mechanic. You might be suprised how many helicopters are flying now with my Stop drill patches... ha ha

SO YOUR THAT GUY.

I work as a quality inspector / FAA repair station Rep.I keep seeing Holes drilled on thrust reverser flaps.

Phatford · 07-26-2011, 12:32 PM

Only Thrust Reversers I worked on were GulfStreams... and only G IV and G V at that.

bus kid · 07-26-2011, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phatford

Only Thrust Reversers I worked on were GulfStreams... and only G IV and G V at that.

Those would be the green ones,Although by the time you see them they are brown and black.

pchen911 · 07-26-2011, 01:02 PM

Just trying to learn more about patching up kayaks, so please excuse my stupid questions.

How can you tell if this is a stress fracture? And how is it different than any other types of crack?

And why is it that you can't just smear some marine goop on it to stop the leak?

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07-26-2011, 08:24 AM	#1
JOSER85 Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 85	I guess going to School to work on airplanes is finally going to pay off Now this method is actually used to temporarily fix acrylic windows on fixed wing aircraft's. Now try this! Take a small drill bit (8/32" or so) and drill the ends of the cracks. Make sure you use a strong light under your kayak so you can see were exactly the crack ends. It wont hurt if you go bigger on the hole. This will stop the crack from spreading more through your yak. Now start drilling hole's about 1/2'' away from the crack on both sides. Use wire/fishing wire and start threading as if you were sewing. Don't go to light on the wire or it will start to cut through the plastic. Also when your threading it make sure it's slightly tight but not to tight. This will help the crack from not opening under pressure. That's why the epoxy only worked from a few hours. And that's pretty much it on that. Now you want to use your epoxy and cover the hole's and the sewing you did. Make sure before you start this whole process to prep the surfs in which you will be working on. I added this photo so you get a better under standing.

07-26-2011, 11:35 AM	#3
Phatford Heroes on the Water Staff Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Anahiem Posts: 176	The Stop drill at the end of the crack isn't super critical on the size, more important is that you drill Right through the end of the crack, you don't want to give the crack an easy place to start again. I am also an Aircraft Mechanic. You might be suprised how many helicopters are flying now with my Stop drill patches... ha ha Does Hobie want the Kayak back? Maybe you can fix it... Sell it with full disclosure, and buy a new boat?

07-26-2011, 12:32 PM	#6
Phatford Heroes on the Water Staff Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Anahiem Posts: 176	Only Thrust Reversers I worked on were GulfStreams... and only G IV and G V at that.

07-26-2011, 01:02 PM	#8
pchen911 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 218	Just trying to learn more about patching up kayaks, so please excuse my stupid questions. How can you tell if this is a stress fracture? And how is it different than any other types of crack? And why is it that you can't just smear some marine goop on it to stop the leak?