![]() |
|
Home | Forum | Online Store | Information | LJ Webcam | Gallery | Register | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: The Matrix
Posts: 643
|
Thanks! If you are following the concept, I believe I cut the arms at 15 degrees, and 4 inches in length. The backbone is 25 inches, with the first arm epoxied at the 24 inch mark, with 4 inch intervals. Start from the bottom up, that way the top has a slightly larger area for you to wall mount vs the bottom (see pictures in first post). I used drywall anchors, long screws, and a washer to keep the carbon fiber from caving in at the screw head.
__________________
-Kevin |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
#1 on fishstick's hitlist
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sea level
Posts: 1,478
|
whats that rear hatch on the pro angler for anyways?
rigged it up to hold one of my batteries. since the front hatch seems to hold water, I'm in the progress of fixing that, i figured this would be the best way to insure a dry battery and terminals. i just slit holes for the wire and epoxied it in place. ![]()
__________________
MLPA- My Largest Poaching Area ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 664
|
Just making a contribution to this awesome thread.
Original post here with a review. http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ad.php?t=15546 Quote:
__________________
Urban Camo Trident 13 |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: SoCaL
Posts: 224
|
Quote:
__________________
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Tags |
kayak fishing inovations, kayak rigging ideas |
|
|