5/21 midmorning

[tylerdurden]

My trick for the surf is get lucky with the timing. The biggest help I've found is using your feet for extra drag. That way if a wave starts to pick you up, instead use your feet to slow down and let it pass under you. Then paddle like hell to chase it in . The impact zone at LJ is very small. Only 10 yards at most. No matter which beach you launch at, you don't want to get caught in no mans land where you can't back out of a wave, and can't get far enough ahead that it loses enough energy to be safe. Hit the surf zone with enough speed so you aren't a sitting target. Paddling backwards makes you less likely to out run a big swell.

If someone gets rolled (myself included) are photos on the board are fair game? lol

Yes, surf pics are always good for a laugh.

Originally Posted by madscientist

Anytime you see Tyler on the beach you better bring your A game as he usually has a camera.

And I've got some good ones. Here are some of many...
Here is the Handyman under pressure surfing in like a pro, he knew I would be on the beach with my camera:


Brad racing the baja shorebreak in, this isn't even the real swell:


Tourist tandem goes end over end .


I haven't taken any good ones for a while. All these are old pics.