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Old 04-11-2014, 02:44 PM   #1
CheapPelican
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^ what do you do, just goop the terminals? How do you keep it from sliding around during a surf launch?
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:54 PM   #2
alanw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapPelican View Post
^ what do you do, just goop the terminals? How do you keep it from sliding around during a surf launch?
You may need some way of keeping the battery from sliding around.. strap it to your scuppers or secure it inside of a box or bag, but it does not have to be waterproof. The battery is already waterproof. A little dielectric compound on the terminals may be all that's needed. A rinse off once in a while is good. If you solder your wires to your battery then you can also coat the terminals with epoxy if you want to not even worry about rinsing.
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:03 PM   #3
chxh8me
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I'm more of a better safe than sorry kind of guy. Keeping the terminals and fuse bone dry makes for no cleanup or worries. Plus I can swap the battery out and onto my float tube.... If I ever float tube again. For $5, it's worth it to me.
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Old 04-12-2014, 02:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapPelican View Post
^ what do you do, just goop the terminals? How do you keep it from sliding around during a surf launch?
I gooped the terminals and so far it's held up pretty well. Every so often I will remove the goop, clean the terminals and add some fresh lube. Afterall, no one likes old lube. Since the bag is riveted down I don't have to worry about the battery flopping around when/if I get tossed.
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Old 04-12-2014, 09:29 AM   #5
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Talking

Jorge, I think you gave it a good test at the Rockfish Tournament!
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Old 04-13-2014, 01:01 AM   #6
fongman
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I'm running 2 LIFEPO4 batteries; a 6v and a 12v. To minimize the handling of the batteries, I found a plastic container that is almost the perfect fit for 2 SLA type batteries. Since they are so light, I always keep both of them in the box, even if I only need one. Another advantage of keeping them together, I can use a 4-wire SAE connector which allows me to make all of the electrical connections at the same time.


This also works for charging both batteries together. To connect the chargers to the batteries, I made an SAE adapter. On the opposite end of the adapter, I use a 2-pin male Molex connector for the 12v charger and a female connector for the 6v charger. This ensures the wires to the chargers are always connected correctly, because only the male connector on the 6v charger will connect to the 6v battery adapter leads and the female connector on the 12v charger will only connect to the 12v battery.



I store the battery in front of the sail post on my Hobie. I have a small container that is gooped into place that doubles as a dry box.



When I need the batteries, I have the option of putting the battery box inside of the dry box or on top of it. A nylon strap with a quick-release clip secures it in place.

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Old 05-09-2014, 01:16 PM   #7
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Stealth 12 Dragonfly Install

This is my first post here (I think...........I know I signed up like a year ago). I've had the yak for a year (first one in line at the Spring OEX blem sale in Compton!! Super sketchy night of no sleep!!!), and it's time to trick it out.

I have the Raymarine Dragonfly mounted on my Striper center console. Purchased a second cradle and transducer kit for the yak so I can move the unit back and forth for cost-effectiveness. Decided to sacrifice the cupholder for a low center of gravity and clean fit. I hate clutter, and I hate crap sticking up awkwardly from a kayak like an ABS plumbing pipe explosion. Not my jam.

Here's what I did last week:

Testing out clearances and mounting location.



It appears my transducer may fit the curvature of the hull channels JUST right...or at least close enough.




Aaaaaaaahhhh!!! Hacksaw to a $100 CHIRP transducer!!!!



Like a glove!!




Mounting the baseplate for the cradle was a giant pain. I don't even want to relive that misery with a recap.







Fully mounted: nice tight tolerances...



Ran the wires up through the aft foot well scupper, into the console, wrapped the excess around the inside mold of the cupholder (will be mounting an inverted PVC drain cap to keep the wires in place, and back out through the top of the console with clamshell wire clamps. Nice and clean.










Secured the transducer with a liberal amount of 5200. It's not going anywhere. The front leading edge is not completely recessed or flush, but it's pretty darn close. As long as I'm careful around rocks, I think it's going to work out just fine.







Finished product!


Next up is some finishing touches to clean up the wires, and the installation of the battery box and wiring.

- Belk out
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Old 05-09-2014, 03:59 PM   #8
alanw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Belk View Post
Decided to sacrifice the cupholder for a low center of gravity and clean fit. I hate clutter, and I hate crap sticking up awkwardly from a kayak like an ABS plumbing pipe explosion. Not my jam.
Way to ruin a perfectly good trashcan/cupholder!
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:37 PM   #9
Baja Belk
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This might be a stupid question with an obvious answer, but why not run the transducer wire up one of the scupper holes instead of drilling another hole in your new yak?
I did run the wire up through a scupper hole. The only need to drill holes was to get the 30' of excess wire tidied up inside the hull, and also to plug into the battery. No access to inside the hull without drilling holes.
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:39 PM   #10
socal.beach.bum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Belk View Post
I did run the wire up through a scupper hole. The only need to drill holes was to get the 30' of excess wire tidied up inside the hull, and also to plug into the battery. No access to inside the hull without drilling holes.
Yeah I saw that afterwards...so I deleted my dumb question...
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