Share Your Innovations

[dsafety]

Bump

Come on guys, you have to have some more good stuff to share.

Bob

[Iceman]

RPG BLING

[dsafety]

Iceman,

That's a nice setup. Did the adjustable tracks come on your kayak or did you add them? Where does your bait tank go when using these rod holders?

It would be nice if the two outside tubes could be angled out a bit for wider separation when tolling. Is this possible?

Bob

[Iceman]

Bob,

The tracks are built into the new Tarpons, the SlideTrax system. I came across somebody using these off road handlebar hardware to make an accessory bar up front. The bar can be moved along the length of the track to accommodate the bait tank in front. The rail mount rod holders can be adjusted to point out as well.

[senojmj]

dsafety,

my being a novice to the sport is going to show here. I bought my kayak with the transducer already installed on the inside of the hull. If I were to switch to a wet installation like you did, in theory I could obtain a better reading? The water is permanently sealed in with the transducer? Not sure what my transducer was glued down with. I have heard the bubbles in the adhesive could interfere with readings. Another novice (read: dumb) question: Does it matter where inside the kayak it is mounted? Currently it is just under the seat behind a scupper hole on the starboard side. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Jeff

[dsafety]

Hi Jeff,

"In theory", you should get better performance with the wet mount. I am not aware of anyone actually doing before and after tests but it makes sense if you can get rid of the bubbles that commonly form in Goop installations, things should work better.

As for how your existing transducer is currently mounted, if your transducer is glued in place with some clear silicon, it is probably a Goop installation. You can remove the transducer by carefully sliding a knife or other sharp tool under the unit until it eventually breaks away from the hull. You will then have to shave away all the Goop, eliminating any bubbles that may have formed.

As for where the transducer should be mounted, I doubt that it makes much of a difference in a kayak but I prefer having it mounted near the bow so the fish finder will display what I am approaching rather than what I have already passed.

If you have more questions about the wet transducer installation, visit this thread where it is discussed is more detail.

http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=6508

Bob

[Adam12]

Heres something I recently put together to keep my battery box from sliding around.
I gooped some of that stuff you line your drawers with to the bottom of the box for grip.

After I figured out where I wanted the box to sit, I roughed up the bottom of 2 pad eye's and the inside of the hull. I gooped a pad eye on each side of where the box will be situated........Yes, gooped. It's actually quite strong.

I sized up a piece of 1/4" bungee cord and put a open hook on each end. I tried the other type of hook with the locking tab and they are damn near impossible to unhook.

Tadaaaa, it sits in there nice and tight.

[dgax65]

Bob's (DSAFETY) very slick transducer mount really got my attention: http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=6508

Even though I had pretty good results with Gooped transducers, I've been thinking about doing a wet mount for quite some time. Seeing Bob's elegant and simple mount made me want to give it a try. As luck would have it, I had just recently purchased a Stealth 14 and it gave me a chance to try out a wet mount. There were only two problems: 1) I have a Lowrance FF and the transducer is absolutely ginourmous, 2) I don't have the engineering/fabrication skills of Bob. With these two handicaps I launched headlong into my project.

I wish that Lowrance would make a smaller dual frequency transducer. The skimmer transducer that came with my Lowrance 527 FF/GPS is about the size and shape of an ironing board. It won't fit in a 3" PVC pipe. It won't even fit in the 4" ABS coupler that I ran out and bought before measuring the transducer. I had to use a little of my smarts and innovative thinking to come up with a solution. Unfortunately, I was a little short of smarts and innovation this week, so this is what I came up with.

I figured that it would be really cool to be able to see the water in the transducer well. After all, you have to know how much water is in there and if it's turning green. My solution; Lexan. That's right; Lexan. Why use a box that you find in your parts bin when you can spend two days building the damn thing.



Its a little bit on the clunky side. Not very elegant or clean looking, but it has transparent sides (until the algae turns it a murky green). Kinda looks like my old erector set that I had when I was 9.



Like a vintage Soviet tank, this thing is ugly, but strong. Aluminum angle on the corners, plenty of Goop and bolts-bolts everywhere.



It actually looks pretty badass in that photo. Kind of like the Enterprise in the space dock. Trust me; Scotty didn't build this monstrosity.....more like one of the dorks in the red shirt who gets whacked when he beams down to the planet surface.

I couldn't trust this install to Goop. I used 3M 5200 to attach it to the hull (CJ recommended this). I roughed up the hull with coarse-grit sandpaper first, to get better adhesion.



We'll see if it is still attached when I open it up in the morning.

BTW: That is a fill plug on the forward end. I will be sealing the cable pass-through with a rubber bung and Gooping it into place.

[THE CALI HOOKUP!]

I have the same wet mount transducer bob has works fine
yours is cool to, I like translucent container you used for your project. Allows you to if the transducer is paralell with the bottom of the hull.

[medanum6298]

Originally Posted by THE CALI HOOKUP!

I have the same wet mount transducer bob has works fine
yours is cool to, I like translucent container you used for your project. Allows you to if the transducer is paralell with the bottom of the hull.

me too




__________________
watch movies online for free

[dsafety]

Originally Posted by dgax65

That's right; Lexan. Why use a box that you find in your parts bin when you can spend two days building the damn thing.

Now that's the spirit of innovation. Two days in the shop gets you out of a lot of honey-dos.

I like the idea of the well being clear so you can check the water level. The last time I went out, my Humminbird Matrix 12 started acting up. I ended up having to shimmy up to the bow, pull out my trusty Swiss Army Knife and pop the top off of my unit made of ABS to make sure that it was still full of water. (It was.) Having a well made of some clear material would have made that step unnecessary. I wonder if there is a source for clear plastic pipe in 3 or 4 inch diameters?

A couple observations. It has been a while since I worked with Lexan but if memory serves, this material can be easily welded using acetone. Assuming the weld works, (you could goop the corners as well), that would eliminate the need for all the metal braces. Of course then the thing would not look as cool.

Also, I like the portability that being able to detach the transducer from the well using a rubber cap provides. Does your design offer a way to do this?

Finally, I do believe that the Lowrance transducer can be made to fit into a 4" piece of ABS pipe. The 3" one that works for Humminbird is too small. Cali Hookup and I collaborated on a version of my design to fit his Lowrance unit. We got it to work although it just barely fit.

Nice work Doug.

Bob

[FISHIONADO]

I use a factory wet mount from Garmin. It recommends using mineral oil in the well but I use fresh water and it works fine. I've considered putting saltwater in to see if I get better readings but never got around to it. I get good readings to about 700 ft. I remove the heavy transducer when transporting the yak upside down. This model allows you to install on a surface not level to the bottom and then adjust the transducer so that it is level.

Garmin - Garmin 200/50KHz, 12/45deg, Plastic, Adj. In-hull Mount Transducer 010-10327-00

Installed 2006, still no leaks.


I was sloppy with the 3M 5200, but the bottom of the well is clean so that it is only shooting through water and the yak's plastic.

[dgax65]

Originally Posted by dsafety

I wonder if there is a source for clear plastic pipe in 3 or 4 inch diameters?

A couple observations. It has been a while since I worked with Lexan but if memory serves, this material can be easily welded using acetone. Assuming the weld works, (you could goop the corners as well), that would eliminate the need for all the metal braces. Of course then the thing would not look as cool.

Also, I like the portability that being able to detach the transducer from the well using a rubber cap provides. Does your design offer a way to do this?

Finally, I do believe that the Lowrance transducer can be made to fit into a 4" piece of ABS pipe. The 3" one that works for Humminbird is too small. Cali Hookup and I collaborated on a version of my design to fit his Lowrance unit. We got it to work although it just barely fit.
Bob

I didn't know about the acetone. See; you learn something new everyday. It might have looked a little better without all the angle; however, if my childhood hobby of making plastic models taught me anything, it is that I suck at making models. I always ended up with model glue all over the seams and fingerprints permanently etched everywhere. The Lexan box would probably have looked no better than the Monogram 1/48th scale B-17 that I F'd up when I was in seventh grade.

Quickly detach the transducer......no. This baby is about as permanent as the top three floors of the Sunroad building in Kearny Mesa. If I have to move it I'm going to need a pry bar and some explosives.

I think I might have been able to get the transducer in the 4" coupler if I had really tried. I gave up on it because I thought it would be too much work. Instead, I spent two days working on this. THINKING.....now there's my problem.

I'm going to scrap this thing if it doesn't give me perfect performance the first time out. I'll just go back to the tried and true Goop. I would love to get one of those through-hull transducers, but all of the ones that work with my FF are ungodly expensive. If they didn't cost $800, I would just get a bronze thru-hull with a fairing.

[WahooUSMA]

Fahq me, you guys need to quit coming up with this McGyver sheeeet. Now, I want to rip out my "NEW" wet mount trans (haven't even put mine in the water yet!) and install a transparent giz-mo out of plexiglass. All and all, way too cool of a set up.

BTW I have the same ginormous Lowrance transducer as you and it did fit well into the 4 in ABS adapter. I'll post some pic's of mine shortly. The only GOAT &^%$ about the 4in adapter vs the 3in adapter is the stiffness of the cap in 4in. I am concerned that after time, from checking the level of water and having to shimmy the cap off for inspection, the adapter seal may come loose from the hull.

[dsafety]

Originally Posted by WahooUSMA

I am concerned that after time, from checking the level of water and having to shimmy the cap off for inspection, the adapter seal may come loose from the hull.

I agree. Lets put the word out and try to find a source for clear 3 and 4" pipe. If we can find that material we get the best of both worlds. With a clear well we would be able to easily check the water level while retaining the ability to have the transducer removable and therefore portable.

Bob

[dtownfan]

Originally Posted by dgax65

Bob's (DSAFETY) very slick transducer mount really got my attention: http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ead.php?t=6508

Even though I had pretty good results with Gooped transducers, I've been thinking about doing a wet mount for quite some time. Seeing Bob's elegant and simple mount made me want to give it a try. As luck would have it, I had just recently purchased a Stealth 14 and it gave me a chance to try out a wet mount. There were only two problems: 1) I have a Lowrance FF and the transducer is absolutely ginourmous, 2) I don't have the engineering/fabrication skills of Bob. With these two handicaps I launched headlong into my project.

I wish that Lowrance would make a smaller dual frequency transducer. The skimmer transducer that came with my Lowrance 527 FF/GPS is about the size and shape of an ironing board. It won't fit in a 3" PVC pipe. It won't even fit in the 4" ABS coupler that I ran out and bought before measuring the transducer. I had to use a little of my smarts and innovative thinking to come up with a solution. Unfortunately, I was a little short of smarts and innovation this week, so this is what I came up with.

I figured that it would be really cool to be able to see the water in the transducer well. After all, you have to know how much water is in there and if it's turning green. My solution; Lexan. That's right; Lexan. Why use a box that you find in your parts bin when you can spend two days building the damn thing.



Its a little bit on the clunky side. Not very elegant or clean looking, but it has transparent sides (until the algae turns it a murky green). Kinda looks like my old erector set that I had when I was 9.



Like a vintage Soviet tank, this thing is ugly, but strong. Aluminum angle on the corners, plenty of Goop and bolts-bolts everywhere.



It actually looks pretty badass in that photo. Kind of like the Enterprise in the space dock. Trust me; Scotty didn't build this monstrosity.....more like one of the dorks in the red shirt who gets whacked when he beams down to the planet surface.

I couldn't trust this install to Goop. I used 3M 5200 to attach it to the hull (CJ recommended this). I roughed up the hull with coarse-grit sandpaper first, to get better adhesion.



We'll see if it is still attached when I open it up in the morning.

BTW: That is a fill plug on the forward end. I will be sealing the cable pass-through with a rubber bung and Gooping it into place.

How did it work? I am working on the contour for my wet mount tonight. Did the contour of the bottom allow for a good reading with your unit?

[CDFisher]

Originally Posted by dtownfan

How did it work? I am working on the contour for my wet mount tonight. Did the contour of the bottom allow for a good reading with your unit?

So I just got a used lowrance mark 4 from a friend,
And I was wondering how to mount it. I like the plexiglass box
Idea you have but I don't know if you fill the box with water or if it's
Just sitting in there by its self

[dsafety]

By popular demand, this device which was introduced in another post is being added to this thread.

Enjoy

Bob

Permanent Wet Transducer Installation

---

Today's project was to come up with a way to permanently install a new Fish Finder Transducer using the wet method. I would like to take credit for this idea but truth be told, I found a post from a guy in Australia who came up with this idea a year or two ago. I have modified the original installation a bit.

You will need a 3" piece of drain pipe or a 3" adapter, some sort of cap that will screw or clamp to the top of the adapter, some goop, a few stainless screws and a fish finder with transducer. I used a rubber cap a threaded 3" adapter. You could also use a threaded cap but I thought the rubber cap would provide a better water seal.

The first step is to attach the "well" to the hull of the kayak. I shaved the bottom of the adapter a bit to make it fit the contour of the hull and gooped it to the plastic making sure there would be no leaks once the well was filled with water.



Next came mounting the transducer to the cap. I sliced an X in the rubber that would expand large enough to allow the transducer plug to fit through. You could also drill a hole but that would mean a larger waterproof patch later. In the middle of the X I drilled a hole large enough for the cable to slide through without distorting the rubber.

Using the transom mount that came with the transducer, I attached the transducer to the inside of the cap making sure that everything would fit inside the well when the cap was installed. I marked the top of the cap to show the direction the front of the transducer was pointing and gooped the area where the cable passed through to make it water tight.



After the goop cured, I filled the well with water, slid the cap with transducer over the top and tightened the hose clamp. The completed installation is below.



If all goes according to plan, I should be able to fill the well with water once and forget about it. No more constantly checking the foam ring to make sure the water has not spilled, dried up or drained away. Since I store and transport my kayak upside down It is very important that this thing does not leak. We will see.

I have not yet tested this installation on the water but hope to go to La Jolla on New Years Day. If you see me out there, please feel free to paddle on over and check this installation out.

I have a couple concerns beyond whether this thing will remain water tight. Will the fact that there is about an inch of water between the transducer and the hull have any effect? Since the temperature sensor is inside the well, it will probably not give a very accurate reading. The water in the well will have to stabilize with the ocean water. That could take some time. It will almost certainly not be able to detect subtle changes in the water temperature as I peddle from one place to another. All things considered, this is not a very big deal.

See you out there.

Bob


UPDATE: I have tested this setup a couple times and it works perfectly. It has been stored upsided down for a couple weeks now and no leaks have appeared. The issue with the temperature not responding immediately is real. It typically takes about a half hour for the reading to stabilize with the ocean water. As for performance, the fish finder works perfectly, much better than my previous installation although I am sure that part of the improvement is due to the fact that my new FF has better resolution than the old one.

[MrPatrick]

When I use a drop-shot rig in the bay I like to use a two oz. torpedo sinker. I used to take it off of the snap swivel every time a location change was called for. It would be removed to prevent it from swinging and damaging the rod or getting tangled with other rods. Now I use a washer from a garden hose that is zip tied to the threaded area of the reelseat. The sinker slides in and out very easy and the washer is not in the way
A drinking water bottle with a loop on it and a wide mouth make a great holder for keyes and a cellphone. Put the loop through one of your seat straps and it will be withen easy reach. The water bottle can be used to rinse sand off of your yak when you come in.
Last, put your kayak dolly on the trunk of your and secure it down with the wheels up so that you can roll your yak up to the roof racks rather than lifting it.

[dsafety]

Originally Posted by sarcastic

When I use a drop-shot rig in the bay I like to use a two oz. torpedo sinker. I used to take it off of the snap swivel every time a location change was called for. It would be removed to prevent it from swinging and damaging the rod or getting tangled with other rods. Now I use a washer from a garden hose that is zip tied to the threaded area of the reelseat. The sinker slides in and out very easy and the washer is not in the way
A drinking water bottle with a loop on it and a wide mouth make a great holder for keyes and a cellphone. Put the loop through one of your seat straps and it will be withen easy reach. The water bottle can be used to rinse sand off of your yak when you come in.
Last, put your kayak dolly on the trunk of your and secure it down with the wheels up so that you can roll your yak up to the roof racks rather than lifting it.

Your ideas sound interesting. How about photos of the sinker holder and trunk/wheel rig.

Bob