Just a dumb question

[walrus]

I hearing:

Mounting in the water gives the best performance, but the gain in performance is questional for the kayak fisherman. The down side is more rigging and maintenance and the possibiltly of damanging the transducer.

Wet wells work with a minor performance drop, but you don't install them and then just forget it. You'll need to inspect/maintain before each trip.

Attaching with Goop, is basically maintenance free, but does have life span before needing to be re-gooped. Is cleaning the transducer to re-goop difficult? You give up more performance than the two installs listed above, like surface temps and range of depth.

Putting a hole in the bottom of the yakak is not something I want to do, it scares me.

I think I beginning to understand that how the transducer is mounted is largely dependent on how/where you fish, and how much detail information do you need to catcth them. So since all these can be changed, try it out and see what you like?

Now, I need to ask where is the best place on the kayak for these three methods. Forward, center, or stern?

Is there anything else I missed like interference from the batttery or pump if it's too close?

Thanks, you have helped clear up the confusion.

[FISHIONADO]

Goop does not develop air bubbles over time, this only occurs during the curing phase, once it is cured it is stable. The air bubbles come from chemical outgassing and usually indicate too much Goop was used, or you had contamination on the mating surfaces. Clean everything with alcohol. You want a very thin layer of goop if you use that method, sound doesn't travel through a thick layer of goop very well even if no bubbles, it will actually become an attenuator.

[Hunters Pa]

I had two gooped & they worked fine. However I decided to upgrade when my old ducer went bad so I decided to cut the hole. After the cut I just kept thinking I just %$#^%$ed up my yak.

Here's the thread on another site, rather than reposting everything

http://www.kayaksportfishing.com/php...pic.php?t=8407

Difference is night & day. I can watch my bait all the way down in 100 ft of water. No leaks yet, but I still check frequently

[bentrod1]

This Goop your talking about: What name brand is best and where can I purchase it?
I'm assuming marine goop?

[dgax65]

Originally Posted by bentrod1

This Goop your talking about: What name brand is best and where can I purchase it?
I'm assuming marine goop?

Marine Goop - part of the Goop line of products.



OEX sells it, as does http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...ne-GOOP/Detail

[JoeBeck]

I've given up on gluing down my transducers , seems I can't do it without getting not so great reading and it always pops off every month or so, then I have a transducer with dried goop all over it, I have to deal with.

I bought a humminbird fish-finder and their scupper transducer. Simple to install, great reading, no glue or hole drilled in the kayak.

[JoeBeck]

Originally Posted by FISHIONADO

Goop does not develop air bubbles over time, this only occurs during the curing phase, once it is cured it is stable. The air bubbles come from chemical outgassing and usually indicate too much Goop was used, or you had contamination on the mating surfaces. Clean everything with alcohol. You want a very thin layer of goop if you use that method, sound doesn't travel through a thick layer of goop very well even if no bubbles, it will actually become an attenuator.

This may be the root of my problems with goop. I always figured the more the better

[steveooo]

Originally Posted by FISHIONADO

Goop does not develop air bubbles over time, this only occurs during the curing phase, once it is cured it is stable. The air bubbles come from chemical outgassing and usually indicate too much Goop was used, or you had contamination on the mating surfaces. Clean everything with alcohol. You want a very thin layer of goop if you use that method, sound doesn't travel through a thick layer of goop very well even if no bubbles, it will actually become an attenuator.

Exactly. Goop will not "develop" bubbles If there are bubbles, I would say that the install was the issue, not the goop. Also you gotta prep the surface well. This means scuffing the surface good with a heavy grit sandpaper, and making sure there is no plastic dust left. I had to sell my first hobie with the 'ducer still installed, because I literally could not remove it. I tried prying it with screwdrivers, scrapers, even tried cutting it out with a razor, but it was stuck so bad that it wasn't going anywhere. Goop is some sticky stuff, and you do not need alot of it.

[Sherm]

Originally Posted by steveooo

Exactly. Goop will not "develop" bubbles If there are bubbles, I would say that the install was the issue, not the goop. Also you gotta prep the surface well. This means scuffing the surface good with a heavy grit sandpaper, and making sure there is no plastic dust left. I had to sell my first hobie with the 'ducer still installed, because I literally could not remove it. I tried prying it with screwdrivers, scrapers, even tried cutting it out with a razor, but it was stuck so bad that it wasn't going anywhere. Goop is some sticky stuff, and you do not need alot of it.

Second that......I still have my old transducer stuck to the inside of my yak. I was afraid of doing damage trying to get that thing un stuck. No wires to it. It's just a permanent fixture now.