fishing line

[DESTROYER]

When you say Bass in the kelp, it sounds like you are referring to Calicos. I fish 60lb Spectra with a 20lb top shot of flourocarbon connected with an Albright Knot. If you go straight mono, 20lb Ande, Big Game, Maxima, P-Line, Izorline, are all good lines. I hope this helps.

If your talking about WSB and YT, I always fish 40lb Big Game or Izorline.

TL-Matt

[sasha]

Thats just the info i wanted. I see alot of posts about spectra lines. What is exactly spectra?? What do you mean top shot??? How do you rig the lines for kelp fishing or when you fish for WSB.

Sasha

[bubblehide]

Spectra has several threads wrapped together, which increases the line strength exponentially. It also helps dramatically in cutting through kelp (there is somewhat of a technique to it). Floro carbon has the highest abrasion resistance and is suggested to be about invisible when in the water (it actually does not refract light) so it makes for great short topshots. You should spend some time in your local tackle store (better yet a few tackle stores) and discuss it with them at length.

[jbm]

To expand on bubble's information, while spectra is very good for its strength, ability to cut through kelp, resistance to line twist, small diameter and sensitivity, it is very visible under water and less abrasion resistant (think fish teeth) compared to other types of line. To keep the benefits of spectra but lose this downside, most people attach some flourocarbon fishing line to the terminal end of their spectra line. The exact length of this "topshot" line varies by personal preference, but it serves several purposes. One is to add some stretch to serve as a kind of shock absorber at the lure/bait end of the line, another is to make the line less visible to fish, and lastly to resist abrasion at the "business" end of your tackle.

There are 2 other downsides to spectra to be consider. It is very expensive compared to other types of fishing line. It also has very little stretch which makes it more likely to tangle on conventional reels (aka backlash or bird's nest).

If money is a major concern, I'd suggest you stick with high quality mono-filament line for the time being. At least until you get used to casting conventional gear and tying good knots.

[sasha]

WOW thats some good info right there. Thank you guys. When you look for reels for fish more then 15-20lb what do you look for??? What makes a good reel??? If you looked for one to start with what is a good brand.

Sasha

[bubblehide]

sasha, books have been written about this stuff, or at least chapters have. So here is a very condensed version:
Spinning reels will outcast conventional, esp if your using spectra with short tops shots; traditionally spinning reels simply didn't have the drag necessary to take advantage of spectra or for that matter heavier line, but as one can expect, things have changed. So if you want to cast far, go with an accurate spinning reel starting at about $600.00 and up. There are some less expensive alternatives.

If your looking for a good party boat type of reel, go with conventional reels. You want something with a good adjustable drag; they come in either star drags (generally better for casting), or lever drags (considered to be more heavy duty). The lever drags are simpler to use, easier to know where your drag settings are at... You also want something with good free spool, essential in dropping live bait back on the swing. And you want a reel that has the drag to effectively fish the line weight you plan to fish. There are many very good reels on the market today, with advantages and disadvantages, many of which the typical fisherman won't even notice. One such example is Avet Reels, a very good reel that in my opinion was designed with the party boat enthusiast in mind. They produce a lever drag that utilizes a cam, so when moving the lever drag it pretty much goes from 0 drag to about 1/3 drag to 2/3 drag to full drag. Where as Accurate Reels, also using a lever drag, has a much smoother drag that appears to evenly distribute the drag throughout the adjustment mechanism. The advantage to the accurate reel, is that you can potentially, and effectively fish any pound line that you want; within reason in respect to the capability of the reels drag. The main reason for Accurate's advantage is that their reels free spool at any drag setting, not the case with Avets. So to do it with Avet reels you need to get another reel, generally a step up in size. But to do it with an Accurate, you would need to change your top shot, something most fishermen don't want to take the time to do if they can just grab another more appropriate set-up.

Then there is the consideration of the maintenance of the reels; since Avet's drain well, their easier to rinse or submerge in water and spin the handle to clean any saltwater residue within their internal mechanisms, and set out to dry. But generally speaking, if you have to send a reel in for maintenance, it's going to cost you if it's not under warranty.

Ok, I'm going to anticipate your next question, rod selection: Over the years we've gone from fiberglass rods, to E-glass, to graphite, to graphite and composites. I'm going to skip over the first two at this point and go straight to today's latest rods. Graphite rods were designed as stiff strong rods that you could pull hard on, and horse fish in; primarily designed to fish a line that stretches, like mono, or spectra with long mono top-shots. Some would fish long floro top-shots, but floro doesn't stretch anywhere close to what mono does. Since the acceptance and popularity of using spectra and short top-shots of floro, and the fact that people were pulling the hooks from fish with the graphite rods, the rod manufactures caught up with the progression and introduced graphite composite rods. Generally the bottom half to 2/3 of the rod is stiff and strong (good backbone), and the top section is much softer, designed to absorb the shock, or take the place of the stretchy mono and not pull hooks. Additionally, the technique to cast a stiff rod (fast action) is a bit different that casting a soft tip (medium action) rod. For me personally, I find it difficult (but not impossible) to switch from a fast action rod to a medium action rod when casting.

I still think you should study some of this stuff, and go into several tackle shops to let them explain it, while holding some of the rods and reels so you can grasp it a bit better. But keep in mind the old saying, opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. I have mine, but that doesn't mean that they fit you; you need to find what your comfortable with, and what works for you.

[sasha]

Thanks lots of info to read and learn. What is a good tackle shop to look at in the LA area??