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Old 05-24-2011, 02:27 PM   #1
Flyfisher70
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These are just some things I've seen and read about on this site and others. Lots of cool innovations for sure. I wish I could have contributed some of my own ideas, but I'm just not one of the creative type. Anyhow I hope these photos can help others out as past images and instructions have helped me out.

Bait tank battery box mounted directly onto the crate with zip ties. I drilled out two holes for each zip tie on the inside of the box (a total of four zip ties were used), once the zip ties were through the battery box and tight to the box I added marine goop to keep the water from entering through the holes.


I'm using this type of deck connector from the bait pump to the battery box. It seem like it could come unplugged really easy but we'll just wait and see how it works out.




The other side of the battery box has a toggle switch for turning the power on and off as needed.


ABS pipe cut to about twelve inches and then zip tied to the crate. The small cord is for tying down the rods just in case I roll while out on the water, so hopefully I will not loose any of my gear.


On the Vittles Vault bait tank I drilled some small drain holes, these work perfect with the Rule 360 bilge/bait pump and a 6v 7ah battery with the Mojo timer set at a fifteen seconds on and fifteen seconds off cycle.


On the lid of the bait tank I drilled out a small hole to put the cord through so that I will not accidentally loose the lid while on the water or land for that matter.


This just a small knot tied on the inside of the lid, simple yet effective.


Thanks for the great ideas guys!

Last edited by Flyfisher70; 05-24-2011 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:45 PM   #2
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Yard Sales

Well being the professional yard sales man that i am.

I started thinking of new ways to stow my gear on my X-factor when i am launching and landing.








After i got tired of my transducer falling off while carrying it upside down i made my transducer act exactly like a rudder i even attached a pull string to come up when landing and launching.






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Old 05-27-2011, 08:56 PM   #3
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Cool. I like the under hatch stowage area. I am your apprentice in landing yard sales.
Where do you get the bungie strings?
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:17 PM   #4
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You get it by the foot from. Andy at oex or oex in San diego
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:17 PM   #5
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i like how you have a deployment system for the transducer.
it looks great, but most people say that you would want the transducer up front rather than in the back. this way it would show the fish that you are going over rather the fish that you already had passed???? unless of course if they are coming from behind you.....
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tagyak View Post
i like how you have a deployment system for the transducer.
it looks great, but most people say that you would want the transducer up front rather than in the back. this way it would show the fish that you are going over rather the fish that you already had passed???? unless of course if they are coming from behind you.....

When I got my boat, the transducer was also mounted on the back. I questioned that too, but most FF have a WIDE sonar, so it wont really matter of the location. I would rather have mind in the water, reading the Temp, and getting the best reading out of it.

This is the way went about it, work great.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...-for-2012.html
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefer View Post
When I got my boat, the transducer was also mounted on the back. I questioned that too, but most FF have a WIDE sonar, so it wont really matter of the location. I would rather have mind in the water, reading the Temp, and getting the best reading out of it.

This is the way went about it, work great.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...-for-2012.html
That's pretty cool looking, nice work
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:53 PM   #8
james92026
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PVC Kayak Cart for Cobra Navigator XF

copied design from another blog (Palmetto). Excellent instructions with step by step photos. Works great EXCEPT using a 10.5 Inch top support is a little narrow for this particular boat and positions the cart a little too far aft which is not a problem but having the width about 4 to 6 inches wider would enable you to cradle the hull better and more towards the middle/balance point. Having the cart that far back, the tie straps kept sliding back should I happen to lock a wheel in an obstacle. I solved the problem by taking two tie straps from each side of the axel and ran them up to the bow handle, (nothing to buckle, just hold on to the straps) this keeps them taut and the cart does not slide off. A great little project for a cart that comes apart to store in an "A" hatch. and costs about $33 to build. just a FYI....
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:16 AM   #9
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Here's some easy ones to keep this thing going... No where near as impressive or useful, but you know know how it goes.

Leader spool - reuse a braid spool, ziptie to frame, and add snap hook = done.



Rod leash attachment point. Here's one for use when you have the rod out of the holder.






Seat pad, yoga mats work great too... and let's face it women have their own hobbies full of equipment that doesn't get used... so you all probably have a few of these laying around too! Goop has held it in place for over a year.

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Old 02-25-2012, 06:44 PM   #10
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4SiZdAACpk
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:24 PM   #11
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Measuring Device

After trying several ways to come up with the easiest way to measure my fish while on the water I finally decided to go out and buy a sticker. Not wanting to under measure a fish I decided to take one extra simple step.

Step 1

Stick sticker on paddle, place the sticker on the side that DOES NOT have the paddle release button





Step 2

Place a ring of Goop around the entire paddle right around the 1/2" mark. Slide the paddle drip ring over, as you're sliding it over keep turning the drip ring so that it will evenly distribute the Goop.






Final product

I placed the ring about 1/2" over to avoid under measuring

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Last edited by jorluivil; 03-02-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:05 PM   #12
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Bass Pro seat

I recently added a new seat to my kayak. It consists of a Bass Pro folding boat seat with a boat seat swivel. Then I put a Wise Quick connect boat seat mount on the kayak.

materials used-
Bass Pro Folding boat seat-24.99
Bass Pro Boat seat swivel- 9.99
Wise Quick Connect Boat seat mount 20.99
screws/bolt/washers- like $15 (had to go back and get longer bolts)
scrap wood
tube of Marine Goop

Screws/bolts/washers were
1/4 in by 5 in X 4
1/4 in by 3 in X 4
1/4 in bolts X 8
washers X 24

Ok now to how it all went together-

I cut the scrap wood to fit the match the Wise Quick connect. Then drilled the holes to mount the quick connect to the wood. I used the wood with holes drilled as a guide and drilled the holes into the kayak. once this was done I placed the wood block and Quick connect together and used over 3/4 of the Marine Goop on the bottom of the wood and placed the weather stripping around the edges of the wood. then bolted it all in to where the seat would go.


On the top of the Wise quick connect I had to unscrew the top lip and place washers under the piece of metal to allow the base for the seat to slip in.

I drilled out the holes in the seat to connect the seat to the swivel base to allow for a better hold (the screws that come with the seat seem weak to me) For the Stealth 14 because of the bait tank hatch I had to cut out a little bit of the front center of the seat to beable to open the hatch.

Then put it all together and here is the end result. I used a Drimal tool to sand down all the edges that were still touching the kayak and causing friction.(pretty much just the back of the folding seat and the back corners on the bottom.

I took it out to Dana Point last weekend to test it out. The seat didn'e really change the center of Gravity. It felt the same as before I installed the seat as far as stability goes. I caught a 18 lb Halibut and never felt that I was going to tip over.

Another good thing i found is by Installing the seat this way it creates a space below the seat for more storage. My Nalgene bottle will fit under the seat perfectly.

Hope this helps those that had questions and feel free to ask all the questions you want. Next project is a trolling motor and I WILL be asking lots of Questions. My Goal is to make this stealth 14 better than a Pro Angler!!
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File Type: jpg boat seat 4.jpg (35.2 KB, 2188 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0440.jpg (43.8 KB, 2188 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0442.jpg (52.6 KB, 2195 views)
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:26 PM   #13
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Nice work on the seat, did you use any type of sealer on the wood like varnish or Thompsons?
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:28 PM   #14
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So I broke a pole at DP kelp bed. Saw a innovation someone did so I deiced to follow.

and... working on a new bait tank.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:42 PM   #15
Biggameaddict
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc1983 View Post
I recently added a new seat to my kayak. It consists of a Bass Pro folding boat seat with a boat seat swivel. Then I put a Wise Quick connect boat seat mount on the kayak.

materials used-
Bass Pro Folding boat seat-24.99
Bass Pro Boat seat swivel- 9.99
Wise Quick Connect Boat seat mount 20.99
screws/bolt/washers- like $15 (had to go back and get longer bolts)
scrap wood
tube of Marine Goop

Screws/bolts/washers were
1/4 in by 5 in X 4
1/4 in by 3 in X 4
1/4 in bolts X 8
washers X 24

Ok now to how it all went together-

I cut the scrap wood to fit the match the Wise Quick connect. Then drilled the holes to mount the quick connect to the wood. I used the wood with holes drilled as a guide and drilled the holes into the kayak. once this was done I placed the wood block and Quick connect together and used over 3/4 of the Marine Goop on the bottom of the wood and placed the weather stripping around the edges of the wood. then bolted it all in to where the seat would go.


On the top of the Wise quick connect I had to unscrew the top lip and place washers under the piece of metal to allow the base for the seat to slip in.

I drilled out the holes in the seat to connect the seat to the swivel base to allow for a better hold (the screws that come with the seat seem weak to me) For the Stealth 14 because of the bait tank hatch I had to cut out a little bit of the front center of the seat to beable to open the hatch.

Then put it all together and here is the end result. I used a Drimal tool to sand down all the edges that were still touching the kayak and causing friction.(pretty much just the back of the folding seat and the back corners on the bottom.

I took it out to Dana Point last weekend to test it out. The seat didn'e really change the center of Gravity. It felt the same as before I installed the seat as far as stability goes. I caught a 18 lb Halibut and never felt that I was going to tip over.

Another good thing i found is by Installing the seat this way it creates a space below the seat for more storage. My Nalgene bottle will fit under the seat perfectly.

Hope this helps those that had questions and feel free to ask all the questions you want. Next project is a trolling motor and I WILL be asking lots of Questions. My Goal is to make this stealth 14 better than a Pro Angler!!
Nice design, how did it work out? Do you feel a change in the center of gravity or feel unstable? I want to do mine like that but with a spare boat seat, idk how it will affect paddling though i might be sitting to high.
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