Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge  

Go Back   Kayak Fishing Adventures on Big Water’s Edge > Kayak Fishing Forum - Message Board > General Kayak Fishing Discussion
Home Forum Online Store Information LJ Webcam Gallery Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-29-2012, 08:17 PM   #1
Necron 99
Member
 
Necron 99's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 80
The epoxy sounds like a good idea. I'll try it when my beer bottle top breaks. So does getting another rod and calling it a "sabiki rod". This site is full of great information. Thanks guys. I'm thinking an ULUA sabiki rod maybe.
Necron 99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 01:41 PM   #2
Drake
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
From my earlier thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake View Post
After being completely fed up with the promar bait cages, I've decided to build my own.

Things I hate about the promar cages.
- The hooks to keep the doors on break after a while
- They make stacking the hoops a pain
- When bugs are thick, it's too easy for them to clear all your bait.
- They get stepped on and bend
- They're annoying to store
- Chunked bait falls right out
- Needs some sort of fastener

After seeing my friend do REALLY well on bait tubes, I got to thinking. What can I do to improve.


Here's what I've come up with.
These hold about 3-5 sardines broken in half. They lasted all night still packed with bait. Didn't need to do 1 bait change

Pros
- Cost 1/2 as much as a promar to make
- They slip right into the bait pocket in the bottom of almost all hoops
- Almost every hardware store carries them
- They are solid plastic/pvc, means no rust and nothing to break
- Smaller slits makes bait last a lot longer
- Requires no fasteners
- Makes stacking hoops much cleaner and easier on the back of a kayak
- You can fit all 5 in a 1 gallon freezer bag already loaded with bait for the next trip
- Easy to clean out and store
- They float, incase one comes loose
- Bugs can't eat them from the outside (ambush/ecplipse users), they need to get in the hoop
- SEAL PROOF

I know the biggest question everyone is thinking to themselves.... DO THEY WORK??
Well tonight, I put them to the test. See photos






.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

  Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 02:01 PM   #3
jorluivil
Senior Member
 
jorluivil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
Drake, thank's a bunch for sharing your idea. Today I went to Home Depot and purchased five lids and five of those cups, it cost me $20.

I made a few improvements to the tops and cups.

1st

I took a file to the ridges that are on the lids, filed them down to minimize the amount o pressure it takes to open the lid

Before


After



Next, I took a round file to the cups and filed down a small section to help pop open the top.






I compared the amount of strength it took to open an off the shelf piece to one that I modified. After the modification it took about half the pressure to remove the top, filing down a section to get a grip with a finger really helped.


Again, thanks for sharing

Bait cages are baited and in the freezer ready for the next
__________________


www.facebook.com/Teamsewer
jorluivil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 02:04 PM   #4
Drake
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
No problem Jor. Looks like you got the different cups than the ones I got. I went with the slotted ones because the green lids don't actually go all they way in, and it makes a little more room for bait. Also, I know it probably won't matter but I figured with the slits in the bottom their would be less drag when pulling them up. But agian, when its packed with bait I don't think it will matter. Let me know how those work. If they do I might make the switch because they have a lower profile by about 3/4"
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 02:06 PM   #5
jorluivil
Senior Member
 
jorluivil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake View Post
No problem Jor. Looks like you got the different cups than the ones I got. I went with the slotted ones because the green lids don't actually go all they way in, and it makes a little more room for bait. Also, I know it probably won't matter but I figured with the slits in the bottom their would be less drag when pulling them up. But agian, when its packed with bait I don't think it will matter. Let me know how those work. If they do I might make the switch because they have a lower profile by about 3/4"

10-4.....I forgot to mention that I used the ones that have the closed bottom, no need to have bait spilling out of the bottom.
__________________


www.facebook.com/Teamsewer
jorluivil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2012, 03:31 PM   #6
Drake
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Made a small modification to the nets to better accommodate the pucks.

One came loose last night so I wanted to come up with a better way to secure them. This is what I came up with.

I cut the string that holds the tag ends of the netting together which forms the opening. Then I weaved a short bungee in the loops and zip tied them to the lower ring. I cut the end off so they wouldn't rust and get hung up, then burned the tips to clean them up.

The bungees cost $2.94 from home depot.

Took about 2 minutes for each hoop.



  Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2012, 01:27 PM   #7
Dirty Curti
Senior Member
 
Dirty Curti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oceanside, CA
Posts: 419
Just thought I would share a picture of the double kayak storage stand I made with 1 1/4" PVC. Pretty simple and works perfect.

__________________


Dirty Curti is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
kayak fishing inovations, kayak rigging ideas


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
© 2002 Big Water's Edge. All rights reserved.